Chapter 3: Sewing, Machines, Tools & Equipment

1. What is Sewing?

Definition: Sewing is the art and craft of joining, fastening, or attaching materials and fabrics using
needle and thread.

Historical Context:

Sewing is one of the oldest forms of textile arts, practiced for thousands of years.

Originally all sewing was done by hand.

The invention of the sewing machine in the 19th century and

computerized sewing in the 20th century revolutionized production, enabling mass manufacturing and
global trade.

Present Day:

Hand sewing continues for fine tailoring, haute couture(high end clothing), custom dressmaking, textile
artistry, and hobby crafts.

Machine sewing is used in industry and for daily home garment creation.

2. Sewing Machines

Definition & Background

Sewing Machine: A machine that stitches fabric and other materials using thread, automating and
speeding up what was once a manual process.

History:

Developed during the Industrial Revolution to reduce manual labor.

Thomas Saint (England, 1790) is credited for the earliest working sewing machine.

Types of Machines:

Home Sewing Machine: Designed for individual use, typically performs single stitch types.

Industrial Sewing Machine: Larger, more powerful, varied functions, used for mass production; offers
greater speed and durability.
3. Major Parts of a Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

Part Function/Role

Needle Forms stitches

Needle Bar Supports and moves needle during stitching

Pressure Foot Holds fabric steady during sewing

Pressure Foot Lifter Raises/lowers presser foot to adjust fabric

Hand Lifter Manual way of presser foot lifter

Pressure Bar Controls pressure foot pressure

Pressure Regulator Controls force of presser foot

Balance Wheel controls start/stop

Spool Pin Holds spool(choto shutar cone) for upper (top) thread

Tensioning Device & Nut Regulates thread tightness for even stitches

Thread Guider Directs thread from spool to needle

Thread Take-Up Lever Pulls thread from spool after every stitch, controls tension

Foot Paddle Controls sewing speed with foot pressure

Needle Plate/Throat Plate Supports fabric, allows needle movement; has seam guides

Side Plate Covers inner mechanism

Feed Dog Teeth-like part; moves fabric forward with each stitch

Bobbin, Bobbin Case Fuel for lower thread

 Part Function/Role

Bobbin Release Button Releases bobbin for winding or threading

Needle Clamp Screw Secures needle position

Sewing Light Give lights to the work area

Reverse Wheel/Lever Enables sewing in reverse for backstitching

Power Switch Turns machine on/off

Stitch Regulator/Dial Adjusts stitch type (straight, zigzag)

Bobbin Winder Spindle/Stopper For winding bobbin; stops automatically when full

Face Plate Decorative/functional cover

Rotary Hook Catches top thread to form lock stitch with bobbin thread

Thread Stand Holds large thread cones

Machine Bed/Table Supports machine and fabric during use

Aspect Sewing Tools Sewing Equipment

Definition Simple hand-held instruments used More complex devices or
 for sewing tasks. machines that automate sewing
tasks.
Operation Used manually by hand, requires May be manually operated or
skill and care. powered by electricity.
Examples Scissors, measuring tape, seam Sewing machine, iron, ironing
ripper, pins, thimbles, needles, board, tailor's ham, sewing box.
tailor's chalk.
Role in Used in every step—measuring, Used in major tasks like
Garment marking, cutting, stitching, finishing. stitching (machine), pressing, or
Making storage.
Electricity is not needed Electricity is needed

5. Types of Sewing Tools

A. Cutting Tools

Scissors: Main cutting tool for fabric/thread.

Bent-Handled Shears: 7-8", for fabric; blades lie flat for accurate cuts.

Trimming Scissors: 6", for trimming/clipping seams and general use.

Pinking Shears: Zigzag edge, finishes hems/seams (not for pattern cutting).

Scalloping Shears: Creates rounded/scalloped fabric edges for decoration.

Seam Ripper: Removes unwanted stitches, opens seams carefully.

Thread Clippers: Snip stray threads, fix unraveling fabric.

Buttonhole Scissors: Adjustable blade for cutting buttonholes without damaging fabric.

Quilting Scissors: Various types; for cutting heavy or layered fabrics, snipping seams.

Embroidery Scissors: Small, precise scissors (duckbill, curved tip, etc.) for detailed decorative work.

Rotary Cutters: Circular blade; outstanding for clean, straight cuts, especially through multiple fabric
layers.

B. Measuring Tools

Tape Measure: Flexible (usually 60"), used for taking body measurements, pattern making, fabric
measurement (marked in cm/inches).

Yardstick/Meter stick: Rigid stick for measuring grain line, long marks, hem lengths.
Hip Curve: Curved ruler for shaping seams and connecting curved edges.

L-square: “L” shaped ruler; draws perpendicular lines; helps pattern drafting.

Ruler: Helps drawing/connecting short, straight lines; measures in inches/cm.

Hem Gauge: Tool for marking various hem depths; ensures straight folds.

C. Marking Tools

Tailor’s Chalk: Hard chalk for temporary marks on fabric (cutting guidelines/alteration).

Tracing Wheel: Toothed instrument used with carbon paper to transfer pattern markings (pleats, darts,
notches)

Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker Pencil: Makes fine lines; comes with an erasing brush.

Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper: Colored, waxed sheets paired with tracing wheel for transferring marks.

Liquid Marking Pen: Pen where ink washes out or fades in 48 hours.

D. Pinning & Sewing Tools

Hand Needle: Used for hand sewing, comes in various sizes (small for delicate fabrics, large for heavy
fabrics)

Thimble: Metal/plastic protective finger cover used while hand sewing.

Pin Cushion: Stuffed small pad for keeping pins organized while working.

Pins: Temporarily hold fabric pieces together, easier than basting. Always use sharp, rust-free pins.

Sewing Needle Threader: Tool to help pass thread through the eye of a needle.

Sewing Box: Utility box (compartmentalized/non-compartmentalized) used for storing and organizing
small sewing supplies.

6. Supporting Equipment

Sewing Machine: Main automated equipment for making stitches in fabric.

Flat Iron: Appliance used to press and remove wrinkles from garments.

Ironing Board: Heat-resistant table for pressing clothes.

Tailor’s Ham: Firm, ham-shaped pillow for pressing curved garment areas (collars, cuffs, sleeves).