AMITY SCHOOL OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

AMITY UNIVERSITY

Module 1

Fashion material studies

Program : [Link] Fashion Design

Course Title:Fashion material

studies

Course Code: TEXT 306

By: Dr. Lekhani Tripathi

 Module I:Major Markets in the
Apparel Industry

Descriptors/Topics
• Characteristics of the major markets –US, EU, Asia,
Australia
• Sizing in the various markets
 Garments sizing

Size:
“the overall measurement or extent of something”
“the series of standard measurements in which
clothes, shoes, and other goods are made.”
 Sizing system

Sizing system is the sum of the size standards that are

defined by a standardization institute or a brand, these size
standards define the range of body measurements of a
populations (classified as the target group), the size
speciation standards and the size communication in labels
Sizing system
Sizing system
Sizing system
 Development of sizing
• The markets needs are different depending on the consumer (body
size, fashion taste, fit perception) and region, therefore developing
an 'International size’ is difficult.
• Consumer satisfaction of fit
– evaluate if current sizing fulfills the product expectations of the
– consumer and the perception of fit, these are subjective, it can
vary between people and nations
– consumer research can be a useful tool in feedback control
– research needs to be carried out brand specifically based on
product range and target consumer
– possible fit criterias can be analysed: material, garment
ease/comfort, function, use, fashion taste based on garment
construction
 Benefits of development of sizing

➢ market share increase

➢ sustainable competitive advantage
➢ turnover and sell-through increase
➢ reduction of markdowns due to fit or sizing
➢ reduction of returns due to fit (no matter which
sales channel in-store or mail delivery)
➢ enhanced customer satisfaction, brand loyalty,
recommendations
Comparison of various markets sizing
 Difference in body shape
– defined by bust-waist ratio and bust-hip ratio (body proportion)
– Body shape is one of the indicators that determines how a garment fits
– companies need to define the body shape and proportions of their target
consumer in order to evaluate how their designs will fit.
 Difference in body shape
• Men and women in Europe and Asia have both rectangular body
shapes
• For women the chinese body shape A has similar bust-waist ratio
than German size standard
• for men the bust-waist ratio shows that Chinese shape B is more
similiar to the body proportion of German man
• it is possible to design styles for both markets based on the same
body shape considering that Chinese are slimmer than Germans.
• Chinese men and women have slimmer hip measurement compared
to Germans.
• Chinese have similar upper body proportion compared to Germans
• Chinese have a significant shorter waist-hip length compared to
Germans
• Chinese have a significat shorter lower body compared to Germans
 Conversion from Catalogue Sizes
Catalog misses' sizes: 5'5"-5'6" (165–168 cm) tall, average bust, average back

Dimension
4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20
/size

Closest
standard 10 12 14 16 18 20 22
size

5'4" 5'4" 5'4"

5'4.5" 5'5" 5'6.5" 5'6" 5'6" 5'6.5"
Est. height (162.5 c (162.5 c (162.5 c
(164 cm) (165 cm) (169 cm) (168 cm) (168 cm) (169 cm)
m) m) m)

Est.
180 195
weight lb ( 115 (52) 125 (57) 135 (61) 145 (66) 155 (70) 165 (75) 175 (79)
(81.5) (88.5)
kg)

Bust 34 35 36 37 38.5 40 41.5 43 44.5

Waist 25 26 27 28 29.5 31 32.5 34 35.5
Hip 35.5 36.5 37.5 38.5 40 41.5 43 44.5 46

[Link]

13
 European Size Chart
Clothing sizes in Europe start in the 30s, so don't be confused if you're used to low women's
size numbers that are common in America. If you're shopping in the United Kingdom, you
should try on the garment two sizes up from your numeric size. So if you are usually a US 8,
pick up size 12 garments when shopping in the U.K

[Link]

14
 Men’s Shirt

Men's shirt sizes are more than double the size number as those in
the United States. But that's only because the sizing uses a chest
measurement in centimeters instead of inches.

15
 Female Clothing Sizes
Comparison Charts
Female Clothes Eg. Jackets, skirts, shirts, coats, suits
Standard Size details

China 160-165 165-170 167-172 168-173 170-176

/84-86 (S) /88-90 (M) /92-96 (L) /98-102 (XL) /106-110
(XXL)

International XS S M L XL

USA 2 4-6 8-10 12-14 16-18

Europe 34 34-36 38-40 42 44

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 Size Comparison

[Link]
17
 Sizing conversion chart
• are limited in accuracy and usefulness
• brands which need to communicate size conversion should identify the
corresponding body or garment dimensions to a size
Sizing conversion chart

19
 Down sizing
Downsizing in the sizing system refers to the practice of creating
garments with slightly smaller measurements than the standard or
labeled size to account for factors like fabric stretch, fit
preferences, or cost-saving measures. It involves adjusting the
proportions of a garment’s pattern to be smaller than the expected
size specifications while still labeling it as a particular size (e.g.,
labeling a slightly smaller garment as a "Medium" to align with
market trends or consumer expectations).
 Down sizing
• One example of down-sizing was recognized in size labels of the brand
Jack Wolfskin. Similar to the approach of Intersport or Esprit in Europe,
Jack Wolfskin has identified the size conversion for different markets in
one size label.
Key Points About Downsizing in
Garment Sizing:
 Downsizing
• Purpose: Fit Adjustment: Downsizing may be used to create
a snugger or more fitted silhouette, especially for stretchy
fabrics like spandex or elastane blends, where garments are
expected to stretch to fit the body.
• Cost Efficiency: Using less fabric by slightly reducing
dimensions can lower production costs.
• Market Trends: Some brands downsize to cater to "vanity
sizing," where customers prefer
 Downsizing
• How It Works: Patterns are scaled down slightly in key
measurements (e.g., chest, waist, or hip) while
maintaining the labeled size.
• Designers may reduce seam allowances, shorten
lengths, or adjust grading (the incremental
increase/decrease between sizes) to achieve a
downsized fit.
 Downsizing
• Impact on Consumers: Fit Issues: Downsizing can
lead to confusion, as customers may find that a labeled
size fits smaller than expected compared to other
brands.
• Inconsistency: It contributes to sizing inconsistencies
across brands, making it harder for consumers to choose
the correct size.
• Perception: Vanity sizing through downsizing can make
customers feel better about fitting into a smaller size, but
it may also lead to dissatisfaction if the fit is too tight.
 Downsizing
• Examples:A brand might label a dress as a size 8, but its
actual measurements align more closely with a traditional size
6 to create a more form-fitting [Link] wear may be
downsized to account for stretch, ensuring the garment hugs
the body during movement
• .Criticism:Downsizing can frustrate consumers due to
inconsistent sizing standards across [Link] may exclude
customers with larger body types, as downsized garments may
not accommodate their measurements despite being labeled as
their size.
 Unified coding system
• Unified coding system is a standardized framework for
designating garment sizes using consistent codes or labels
that correspond to specific body measurements, garment
dimensions, or size categories. Unlike traditional sizing
systems, which vary widely between countries, brands, and
garment types (e.g., S, M, L, or numerical sizes like 8, 10, 12),
a unified system aims to:
• Standardize size labels across manufacturers and regions.

• Link sizes to measurable dimensions, such as body

measurements (e.g., bust, waist, hip) or garment
measurements (e.g., inseam, chest width).
 Examples of Unified Coding Systems

• ISO 8559 Series

• EN 13402:
• PN Numbers in Fashion
 Unified coding system
• The European Union and the Swiss national standardization institutes
and textile and consumer organizations work since 1986 on a unified size
standard to bring consesus to size labeling.
• The idea of picturing body dimensions is not new. The first standard that
provided body measurements was BS1445: 1995 which was based on a
survey of American girls in 1941.
 Benefits of a Unified Coding System

•Improved Fit: By aligning sizes with actual body

measurements, garments are more likely to fit as
intended.
•Reduced Returns: Clearer size communication in e-
commerce reduces the high return rates caused by
sizing errors.
•Global Consistency: Facilitates international trade
and consumer confidence in cross-border shopping.
 Benefits of a Unified
Coding System

•Efficiency in Production: Standardized patterns and

measurements streamline manufacturing and inventory
management.
•Consumer Empowerment: Transparent labeling helps
customers make informed choices, reducing dissatisfaction
and negative body image perceptions.
 Benefits of a Unified
Coding System
• Reduce ambiguity caused by vanity sizing (where sizes are
labeled smaller to flatter customers) or inconsistent sizing
practices.
• Facilitate global trade by ensuring compatibility in
international markets.
• The system often incorporates anthropometric data
(measurements of human bodies) and may use numerical
codes, pictograms, or standardized tables to communicate size
information clearly to consumers and manufacturers
 Challenges in Implementing a
Unified Coding System
• Resistance to Change: Manufacturers and brands often stick
to proprietary sizing due to market familiarity or branding
strategies (e.g., vanity sizing).
• Demographic Variations: Body shapes and sizes vary
globally, requiring flexible systems to accommodate diverse
populations.
• Awareness: Shoppers are accustomed to traditional labels
(e.g., S, M, L) and may find numerical or pictographic systems
confusing initially.
• Vanity Sizing: Brands intentionally label garments with
smaller sizes to appeal to customers, undermining
standardization efforts
• Cost and Infrastructure: Implementing a unified system
requires updating manufacturing processes, retraining staff,
and educating consumers, which can be costly.
•How are AI and machine learning being used to improve garment
sizing systems?
•How might 3D body scanning and virtual try-ons change sizing
systems in the future?
•What role will sustainable fashion play in reshaping sizing
systems?
•How are sizing systems adapting to the rise of second-hand and
rental clothing markets?
End of Presentation