Paying crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts

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White Rabbit
Crochet Pattern

This pattern was designed by Chiara Cremon aka

@chiacrafts, who hopes you’ll enjoy it a lot!

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 Paying crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
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A message for you!

Hello dear fellow crocheters! My name is Chiara (pronounced “Kiara”, as I’m Italian) and I’m not
only the girl in the picture down there but, most importantly, the person behind the Instagram
account @chiacrafts!

In the very beginning, crochet was something I used to do just for my own sake: it was nothing
more than a Sunday hobby, to keep my mind busy and far away from disaster fantasies... Never
would I have imagined achieving such success! I then started sharing instructions to reproduce my
amigurumis, mainly as a way of thanking all my followers for their enthusiasm (and because of
the large amount of requests!) :)

However, writing a pattern doesn’t come without its own challenges and quite an effort: while the
design time remains unvaried, physically writing it down in digital format, remaking the pieces to
make sure they’re correct, and preparing all comments and pictures, takes about more than a third
of the time I spend on a project.

I’m an independent artist: I’m not sponsored, not affiliated to any magazine or company, and I
don’t receive any retribution for my work other than what I gain from my Ravelry shop. People
who bought this pattern thinking of redistributing it on their own, making money out of
unauthorized translations or who simply downloaded it for free, should know that there’s a real
person behind this profile they are damaging with their actions. If you’re not sure whether you’re
reading a legal copy, have a look at what’s written
in the next section.

I feel like I’m whining a lot about people not

respecting my work and not focusing enough on
you, all the amazing people who indeed
purchased this pattern :D

Just let me thank you once again for your love

and support. You’re all a source of great
motivation for me!

Cheers,

Chiara

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 Paying crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
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Licence
Hello, and thank you for being about to try out this pattern! It was made with a lot of love and
personal effort :)

Here are a few rules and advice you’d REALLY better read and keep in mind

This is a pattern for sale, available via my Ravelry shop exclusively (link in the header of this
document). If you’ve found it in any other location, you’re reading a stolen copy, and you shouldn’t
use it. Also, this doesn’t allow you to redistribute it in turn.

DO NOT copy or redistribute this pattern in ANY form. Unauthorized translations are also
prohibited.

DO NOT reuse my pictures.

This pattern is intended for personal use only.

Please give me credits when posting online by always adding “Pattern by @chiacrafts” and
#chiacraftspatterns. If you don’t post online, I would very much like to receive a picture of your
work anyway :D

Please respect my copyright, my wishes and my hard work. Support me and help me carry on
this activity. Thank you for listening :)

For any doubt, you can contact me via PM on Instagram or by email. I DO NOT answer questions
via private message on Ravelry, but you have all the information to contact me otherwise. I
always answer :)

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 Paying crochet pattern by Chiara Cremon @chiacrafts
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Read Me! Abbreviations

This is a pattern full of tiny details, it requires a lot
of patience! Take a good look at all the pictures
and don’t be afraid to re-do some parts. Luckily,
they are so small it’s quite fast :)
US standard abbreviations +
Remember that all instructions are essential to
the success of the result. A good practice is to something I’ve made up
read the entire document before starting:
knowing what to expect will help you be more ★ R = Round (continuous or joined)
focused. It’s a bit boring but worth it :) ★ Row = row
★ MR = Magic Ring
★ YO = Yarn Over

Indications ★
★
★
YU = Yarn Under
st = stitch
sc = single crochet
★ Work through the entire stitch, not FLO or ★ inc = sc increase (invisible)
BLO (unless specified otherwise) ★ dec = sc decrease (invisible)
★ At the beginning of each row of sc, you ★ dc = double crochet
usually work a turning chain. It’s not ★ hdc = half double crochet
indicated in the pattern but visible in the ★ ch = chain
diagrams ★ sl = slip stitch
★ After a chain, always work from second ★ tr = treble crochet
loop from hook (if not indicated otherwise) ★ BLO = back loop only (corresponds to the
★ If you’re left handed, everything is inner loop when working in rounds)
specular to you! ★ FLO = front loop only (corresponds to the
★ Work in continuous rounds outer loop when working in rounds)
★ I place the stitch marker on the LAST st ★ Ldec = Line decrease, decrease at the
of the round. Someone puts it on the first. beginning of a row. Don’t make any
Know that, in my patterns, it marks the turning chain, turn you work directly and
end of the round start working in the 2nd st of the row.
★ [ ] = means that the stitches are to be
done in the same loop or stitch
★ CY-PO = cut the yarn and pull it out from
Color change the stitch
★ IJ = Invisible Join
Always perform the color change on the second
★ FO = fasten off (CY-PO + IJ)
half of the stitch.
Example: ★ stsc = standing sc
● Color change on a sc: insert the hook, YO, ★ tch = turning chain
pull through, pick the new color, YO, pull ★ rc = rising chain
through both loops on your hook.
The color change is to be done on the previous
stitch! If the pattern says to change color between
Rx and Ry, then you must go to the last st of Rx
and change color on the second step of the stitch
:)

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Here’s an example
○ R1: ch 6, R2: 5 sc, R3-R6: tch, 4 sc

Working in Rows
In this pattern rows are worked in 2 different
ways. Pay attention to the following examples!

Working in rows with turning

chain Working in joined
When working in rows, you usually make one
additional chain at the beginning of each line of sc
- this chain is called turning chain because it helps
you to better turn the work - and you start
rounds
working from the first stitch of the row. As this is
Note: unless specifically mentioned, DON’T
the most traditional way of working in rows, the
work in joined rounds, but in continuous rounds.
turning chain isn’t marked in the pattern. Here’s an
When working in joined rounds, you crochet a
example
chain called a “rising chain” at the beginning of
○ R1: ch 6, R2-R6: 5 sc
each round. This chain has the purpose to
increase the height of the work in order to start
off a new row (hence, the name “rising”). The
stitch following the rising chain must be worked
in the same stitch where you worked the rising
chain. Each round ends with a sl in the first sc
done. Both the first sc and the sl count as stitches
of the round, the rising chain doesn’t. Here’s an
example
Working in rows with turning ○ R1: 6 sc in MR
○ R2: rc, sc in same st, 4 sc, sl in 1st
chain substituting the first st of the row (6)

stitch of the row

As in the previous case, a turning chain must be
done at the beginning of the row, but you should
then start working in the second stitch of the row
instead of in the first one. The turning chain plays
the role of the first stitch of the row, so you should
work in it the row after. This technique will give
you much smoother and clearer edges. When
working in this way is required, the turning chain
is explicitly indicated in the pattern.

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Note on the yarn

Materials YarnArt Jeans is a yarn made to be worked with a
★ 2.0 mm hook 3 or 3.5 mm hook (it comes only in 1 size, so you
★ 6mm black safety eyes can’t be wrong purchasing it). As usual when
★ Tapestry needle working amigurumis, I’ve used a hook 1 size
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill or other) smaller than indicated to better work the body
★ Yarn all in the same size of the following tight, thus avoiding holes in the crochet from
colors. I’ve used YarnArt Jeans: which the stuffing would be visible or fall
○ White (01): body through.
○ Turquoise (33): pants You should get a good result with this pattern
○ Light grey (49): card as long as you stick to one yarn brand/size, work
○ Bright red (90): shirt the body with a hook 1 size smaller than
○ Red (26): heart indicated, and scale the other hooks accordingly.
○ Peach (73): inner ear Anyhow, my advice is to avoid picking a yarn
○ Baby Navy (75): gorget much thicker than indicated, to avoid a sloppy
○ Mustard (84): pocket watch result: maximum 1 size bigger!
○ Tiny scraps of black (53) and dusty
rose (65) for details and eye
embroidery
★ Fabric glue
★ Copper wire 0.4mm
Dimensions
Using the yarn and hook size indicated (and, most
importantly, working tight!!!), the dimensions of
the finished doll are 7x4cm.

Note on the eyes

Please note that the right safety eyes size
depends on the doll’s dimensions! Don’t purchase
REGULAR
6mm eyes if you’re not sure the dimensions of
your doll will be similar to mine. My advice is to
purchase a box with many different sizes, and use
STITCHES!
the one which better suits your doll. This pattern is a pattern for expert crocheters. it is
very small and extremely intricate: each stitch has
a particular function and must, therefore, fall in
the right position. For this to happen, you must
work regular stitches, paying attention to tighten
well both increases and decreases. Irregularities
in the way you work will result in the beginning of
the round to fall in a wrong position, thus
deforming your work!

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Work 7 sc all around as explained in the following

diagram and picture.

Body This is considered to be

R5: 2 sc, 3 sc, 2 sc (7)
Don’t overthink it too much: as long as you
manage to make 7 sc all around and to end on the
Legs back it should be fine :)

Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with white yarn
R1: ch 3 (2)
Work around the chain
R2: [2 sc], [3 sc], 1 sc (6)

R3-R4: 6 sc (6)
Proceed working the following:
a)3 sc, turn
b) Ldec, 1 sc, turn
c) Ldec
Here’s a small diagram

Here’s the result

This creates this flat part which will be the heel of

the foot.

Continue working the foot in rounds:

R6: 7 sc (7)
R7: 1 dec, 5 sc (6)
Change to Turquoise, leave a long starting tail
(you’ll use it after to work some details).

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If this is the first leg you’re making (the left one): NB: start working in the first leg made starting
R8: 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, CY-PO (8) from the first stitch made in its R8, as in the
If this is the second leg you’re making (the right following picture
one):
R8: 2 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc (8)
NB the small difference is made so that the foot
will slightly tilt towards the outside. The 2 inc are
to be made on the front.
Work a row of surface sl stitches on the
white/turquoise color change line using the
turquoise tail left from the start.
To make a surface sl insert the hook below the
first turquoise st, pull out a turquoise loop. Then
insert the hook again below the next st and pull
out a second loop, and complete the sl (see also
the explanation in the watch part). Proceed this R10-R11: 24 sc (24)
way all around: R12: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc (22)
Stuff a bit the legs if you can.
Change to Bright red.
R13: Work BLO: (9 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (20)
R14: 20 sc (20)
R15: (8 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (18)
R16: (7 sc, 1 dec) x 2 (16)
R17: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 4 (12)
Stop to work the tail.
The tail is simply 6 sc in a MR worked with white
Torso and head yarn, Once done CY-PO and pass the tail left
inside the first st done
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Keep working with turquoise yarn from the
second leg made
R9: working in the 2nd leg made: 1 sc, 1 inc, 1
sc - ch 2 - working in the 1st leg made : 1 sc, 1
inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc - 2 sc in the back of the
chain - working in the 2nd leg made: 2 sc, inc, 2
sc (24)
Then sew it to the body

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Now you can stuff the body. Keep stuffing while

you’re moving up.
R18: 6 dec (6)
R19: 1 sc, 1 sc changing to white color on the
second step, 4 sc (6)
R20: 6 inc (12)
R21: 12 inc (24)
R22: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 12 (36)
The incs in the following round are supposed to
fall on the front side. The green stitch marker in
the picture below marks the end of R22 (it is on
the front side of the rabbit).

You can copy the embroidery from this image

R23: (1 inc, 2 sc ) x 3, 18 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) x 3 (42)

R24-R26: 42 sc (42)
The 2 groups of 3 dec in R27 are supposed to fall
on the 2 opposite sides of the face.
R27: 5 sc, 3 dec, 15 sc, 3 dec, 10 sc (36)
R28: 6 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (34) Here you can better see how it covers 2 stitches
R29: 2 sc, 1 dec, 21 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1
dec (30)
R30-R31: 30 sc (30)
R32: 6 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (28)
R33: 6 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (26)
Stop to place the eyes and make the
embroideries.

The embroidery and the placement of the eyes 2 After the nose, embroider the mouth
will require you to be a bit creative. Precise
instructions won’t work because each person
works differently and tiny differences might have
a huge impact. Moreover, as the pattern is very
intricate and full of decreases and increases, it’s
very difficult to draw a grid to give you a precise
embroidery and placing scheme.
Read with attention the next instructions: I’ll try to
guide you through it :)

1 First of all, embroider the nose.

The nose should be positioned in line below the
stitch marker. It is 2 sts wide and 1 round tall: this
round is R27 if you count from the left, R26 if you
count from the right, as the line delimiting the
beginning of each round passes in between.

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3 To find out where to place the eyes, count 3 to straighten them using some threads placed
stitches from each end extremity of the nose, inside the head! You might place them afterwards
and then go up 2 rounds. or prepare them while crocheting the head, just in
case you might need it. Make them pass here:

And then out on the back.

The eyes have ended up being 7 stitches apart,

the right eye placed between R29 and R30, and
the left one between R28 and R29. It’s very
difficult to count the stitches in between, as the
decreases there create a lot of confusion: I advise
you not to try it :) stick with the positioning based
on the nose!

After having clipped the safety eyes, you can add

some white and red embroideries
If you need to straighten the eyes, simply pull
these strings gently. In this case, straightening the
eyes would leave slightly visible marks on the
back of the head, so do it only if completely
necessary.
You can then proceed closing the head:
R34: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 2, 1 sc, (2 sc, 1 dec) x 3, 3 sc,
1 dec (20)
R35: (2 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (15)
Stop to embroider the eyebrows.
TIP1: if you accidentally deformed the face while
The right eyebrow should take R32 and R33,
inserting the safety eyes, you can bring it back in
whereas the left one R32 and R31.
place by “blocking” your work. Fill the face with
something which will keep it in the correct shape
and steam the surface. No professional device is
required, you can use your iron’s vapor or the one
produced by a steamer (the one to clean floors
and appliances). In the worst case, you can just
boil some water and keep the work upon the pot
for a few minutes. Once, I even took a doll in the
bathroom with me while I was taking a shower :)
Then let it dry: this should regularize the stitches
and restore the original shape.
TIP2: while stuffing the head, it’s possible that the
eyes will tilt towards the outside. It’s a good trick

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Stuff the head. Remember to stuff well below the

eyes, the cheeks and the top of the head.
R36: (1 sc, 1 dec) x 5 (10)
CY-PO leaving a long tail.
Pass the tail left through all the FLs of R36, pull,
make a knot and hide the yarn left inside its body
(this is also called “Reverse Magic ring”!). Be
careful when pulling, or the thread might break!

Card costume
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start working with light grey yarn
This part is worked in rows. Leave a long tail at
the beginning.
Gorget
Row1: ch 8 (7) Hook: 2.0
Row2-Row7: Tch, 6 sc (7) Work normally
Bring the starting tail to the last row weaving Work with baby navy yarn
through the work: This part is worked in rows.
Row1: ch 13 (12)
Row2: 12 inc (24)
Make a ch1 as a turning chain (no ch 2)
Row3: [2 dc] x 24, FO (48)

Then split the red yarn in half, and work a small

heart:
Work in a Magic Ring without tightening up the
ring:
2 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc, sl,
CY-PO
Tighten up the magic ring.
You can have a look at the reel where I made one.
Sew the heart to the light grey square. Arms
Make 2
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with white yarn
R1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R2: 6 sc (6)
Change to Bright red
R3-R6: 6 sc, FO leaving a long tail (6)

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Then inside the body

Using the tail left sew the end extremity of the

arm to make it flat

Last inside the arm, out from the shoulder and FO

Sew the arms in the following way using the tail

left.
Insert your hook 2 rounds below the color change
line

Then pass it through the other extremity of the

arm

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Dress the rabbit Ears

Sew the 2 cards on the body. 1 or 2 stitches on
Hook: 2.0
the chest are enough
Work tight
Work with white yarn
R1: ch 6
R2: Working around the chain: [2 sc], 3 sc, [3
sc], 4 sc (12)

R3: [2 dc], [2 dc], [1 hdc], 4 sc, FO leaving a long

tail.
You can use the tails left to work the shoulders

Place the gorget and sew it on the back

Now work 2 small parts in peach yarn:

ch 4,
working from second loop from hook: 3 sc, FO

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Using a tapestry needle pass the tail left through

the base of all these mini-strands

Glue this part to the inner side of the ear, or sew it

using a very thin thread

Sew ears and

forelock
First sew the forelock on top of the head.

Forelock
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Work with white yarn
Make a ch 4, work 3 sc in its loops starting from
2nd loop from hook
Repeat another 2 times without cutting the yarn.
CY-PO leaving a long tail

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The sew the 2 ears behind the forelock R2: rc, 1 inc in same st, 4 inc, 1 sc, 1 sl (12)
NB: in the previous round the combination sc+sl
plays the role of an inc.
R3: rc, 1 inc in the same st, 10 inc, 1 sc, 1 sl in
1st st changing color to mustard (24)
R4: rc, 1 sc in the same st, (1 inc, 1 sc) x 11, 1 sc,
1 sl, FO (36)

I’ve sewn the ears to the forelock and the head,

and I’ve fixed them with some small knots on the
back.
Then I’ve passed the tails left through the head You can embroider the hands of the clock now
before cutting them off. In this way, the part or later on.
where you fastened off will be less visible. Work a second half identical to the first one all in
mustard color.
When you reach the end of R4 don’t fasten off but
work:
ch 5, 1 dc in 3rd loop from hook, 1 dc, 1 sl
and then FO.
Merge the 2 halves with a round of mustard
surface sl

Pocket Watch
Hook: 2.0
Work tight
Start with white yarn
This part is worked in joined rounds:
R1: work in a MR: rc, 5 sc, tighten up the MR, 1
sl in the first sc made (6)

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Fasten off all the tails but one, which you can use
to work a long chain.
And the pocket watch is ready!

Leave some space for the bridge and make the

same for the other half

And twist the lenses so they will stay in place

Glasses Using a tapestry needle, pass the two extremities

inside the head right upon the nose, and pull
them out on the back of the head

As indicated in the material section, the glasses

are made out of copper wire 0.4mm.

First of all find an object around which to roll the

copper wire.
In my case, I used a metallic hook, one of those
without the rubber handler.
Cut a long portion of the wire.
Working at around half of the length you cut,
wrap the wire a couple of times:

Squeeze everything together to create the first

rim

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Fix the threads on the back of the head twisting

them together, and hide what’s left with the
gorger.

In this way it will look like the glasses are

magically standing on his nose!

Congratulations! Your White

Rabbit is ready!
Don’t forget to send me a picture or tag me if you
post on instagram (More info in the licence page!)

I also love seeing him close to Alice! Are you

going to crochet more Wonderland characters? :D

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