LASER 4.

7 LASER RADIAL LASER

LASER

Rigging Guide
1. Unpacking and Preparation: Laser, Radial & Laser 4.7

2. Parts of the Laser

3. Hardware Location

4. Hardware Installation

5. Rigging the Traveler

6. Rigging the Mast

7. Stepping the Mast

8. Rigging the Outhaul

9. Rigging the Clew Tie-down

10. Rigging the Vang

11. Rigging the Cunningham

12. Daggerboard Retainer

13. Mast Retainer Line

14. Rigging the Rudder

15. Mainsheet

16. Sail Number Application

17. Installation of Optional Mainsheet Side Cleats

Congratulations on
the purchase of your
new Laser! The Laser is a very unique boat that can accommodate
many different sized sailors and abilities, due to its three
interchangeable rigs. Th e Laser, the Radial and the
4.7 all use the same hull and equipment with the
exception of the lower mast and sail.

We suggest that you read through this guide to better

familiarize yourself with the parts and rigging of your
new boat. If you have any questions please contact your
dealer or call LaserPerformance Customer Service.

Th is is a comprehensive rigging guide for the Standard

and Race configured Laser. If you have a Laser XD, please
refer to the included XD instructions in your XD kit for
instructions on XD specific components and rigging.
Please note that in our effort for continuous improvement
the exact color and spec of Laser parts may vary from those
in the below images.

Depending on which Laser you have selected (Laser, Radial or Laser 4.7)
you will have one of the following sails and corresponding lower masts
located in your delivery kit.

Above from left to right: Laser lower

mast, Radial lower mast, and Laser
4.7 lower mast.

Your boat rigged will resemble one of the lasers shown above.
From left to right: Laser, Radial, and Laser 4.7.

Locate your delivery kit. Depending on which model you

have purchased (Standard, Race or XD) there will be a
few differences in some of the hardware. Th e differences
between the three models are the cunningham, outhaul,
vang and tiller extension. Using images 1 or 2 on the
From left to right: Laser sail, Radial sail, Laser
following pages, identify the contents of your kit. To avoid
4.7 Sail. New Race and XD models come with a
rolled sail damaging the contents, be sure not to cut into the
packaging inside the box.
1. Unpacking and Preparation: 2. Parts of the Laser Nautical Terminology
Standard Delivery Kit Port: Left side of the boat
when looking forward

Starboard: Right side of

the boat when looking
forward

Gunwale: Upper edge of a

boat’s side

Leeward: Direction away

1 Sail numbers 10 Large traveler block from the wind
2 Line bag 11 Small traveler block Windward: Direction from
3 Gorilla tiller & extension 12 Large vang block which the wind is coming
4 Rudder 13 Small vang block
Leach
5 Daggerboard 14 Vang key
6 Battens (3) 15 Mainsheet ratchet block
7 Boom 16 Spring
Boom
8 Upper mast 17 Bullseye fairlead
9 Lower mast 18 Clam cleat
Luff

Clew
Tack
Race Delivery Kit
Tiller
Mast

Traveler
Port Side

Stern

Bow
Rudder

1 Sail numbers 13 Spring

2 Line bag 14 Forkhead block base

3 Gorilla tiller & extension 15 16 mm forkhead blocks (2)

4 Rudder 16 Large traveler block

5 Daggerboard 17 Small traveler block

6 Battens (3) 18 Vang key Gunwale Cockpit Foot of the Sail Daggerboard Mainsheet Boom Vang Starboard Side

7 Boom 19 Pin and ring

8 Upper mast 20 Double micro block

with becket (2)
9 Lower mast
21 Small double block with
10 Cleat base with cleats becket
11 Lower vang block/cleat 22 Micro block with becket (2) Useful
assembly knots
23 Micro single block (2)
12 Mainsheet ratchet block to know figure 8 or square knot cleat bowline clove hitch
stopper knot
3. Hardware Location Figure A ratchet block eyestrap daggerboard well mast step
There are a few pieces of hardware that you
will need to install on your new hull before
continuing to rig your Laser. Locate the two
sets of screws that are positioned on the deck
of the boat (figure a, far right image). One set
of screws will be forward of the daggerboard
well (figure 1) while the other set will be aft of
the mast step (figure 2).
figure 1 | daggerboard well figure 2 | mast step
Tip: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip them into
a silicon based sealant to allow for a water-tight and
secure fit. clam cleat hiking strap bow eye

4. Hardware Installation Hardware Installation

Laser Standard Models Laser Race Models

1. In the delivery kit locate the bullseye [Link] new deck fittings can be retro-fitted on
fairlead and the clam cleat. Unscrew the two all boats without any structural changes.
screws located by the mast step (figure 3). (fi gure 9). First take out the screws on the
cunningham cleat and the downhaul eye.
Align the bullseye fairlead over the two holes figure 3 figure 4
(fi gure 10, 11 & 12).
and screw into place (figure 4).
Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip
Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water- figure 9 figure 10
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water
tight and secure fit.
tight and secure fit.

2. Place the fittings over the existing screw

2. Unscrew the set of screws located in front
figure 5 figure 6 | open end holes and screw tight. (Figure 13 & 14).
of the daggerboard well. Align the holes of
the cam cleat and screw into place (fi gure 5). 3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from
Be sure that the open end of the cleat is facing the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward
towards the cockpit (fi gure 6). end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap.

Reminder: Before replacing the screws be sure to dip 4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the
them into a silicon based sealant to allow for a water- ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap figure 11 figure 12
tight and secure fit. (fi gure 15).

5. Place the spring over the eyestrap and com-

3. Locate the ratchet block and spring from
press. While the spring is compressed,attach
the delivery kit. In the cockpit, at the forward
the block to the shackle with the pin and ring
end of the hiking strap, locate the eyestrap
(fi gure 16).
(figure 7).

4. Remove the shackle from the bottom of the

figure 7 figure 8
ratchet block and place it around the eyestrap Tip: To assist in keeping the spring
(figure 7). compressed while attaching the block
figure 13 figure 14
to the shackle, try compressing the
5. Place the spring over the eyestrap, and spring and tie with string or zip-tie.
compress. While the spring is compressed, Here is a list of tools that Place the tied spring over the eyestrap
attach the block to the shackle with the pin we recommend you have and attach the block. Then untie the
and ring (figure 8). in order to assemble your string/cut zip-tie to release the spring.
new Laser…
Tip: To assist in keeping the spring
compressed while attaching the block • phillips head screwdriver
to the shackle, try compressing the • silicone sealant
spring and tie with string or zip-tie. • white electrical tape
Place the tied spring over the eyestrap • utility knife
and attach the block. Then untie the
string/cut zip-tie to release the spring. figure 15
figure 16
 clam cleat clam cleat

5. Rigging the Traveler: Rigging the Traveler:

Alternative 1 Alternative 2

Port side of the line goes

through the clam cleat.
Tie off the starboard line
with a bowline.
port fairlead

port
starboard
fairlead
small traveler block fairlead small traveler block

Figure B Figure C

1. Locate the traveler line and small 1. Locate the traveler line and small
stern
traveler block from the delivery kit. traveler block from the delivery kit. bowline
On the stern of the boat locate the two On the stern of the boat locate the two
fairleads (figure b). fairleads (figure c).

2. Run one end of traveler line through 2. Run one end of traveler line through
the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern, the starboard fairlead (from bow to stern),
fi gure 17), then through the small traveler then through the small traveler block and
block (fi gure 18) and continue through continue through the port side fairlead
the port side fairlead (from stern to bow, bow (from stern to bow).
figure 18).
figure 17 figure 18 3. Tie a bowline in the port side of the figure 22
3. Make a loop in the port side of the traveler line (fi gure 22). Lead the
line as if you were going to tie a bowline starboard starboard end of the line through the
side
(fi gure 19). Keeping in mind that the free bowline and pull until snug (fi gure 23).
end of the port side line will be cleated port
side 4. With the starboard end of the line tie an
off. Take the starboard end of the line and
overhand knot to secure the line (figure 24).
complete the bowline by going through
the port loop (figure 20). 5. With the tail end of the line, lead it
through the cleat and tie off with a bowline
4. Continue the tail end of the port side
handle (figure 25).
line through the cleat and tie off with a
bowline handle (figure 21).
Note: Th ese are the two manufacturer-suggested figure 23 figure 24
figure 19
methods for rigging your traveler. Many other
figure 20 methods exist. Ask around, experiment and find
the method you enjoy most!

figure 21

figure 25
6. Rigging the Mast 7. Stepping the Mast
Standard and Race Models Standard and Race Models

1. Locate the sail, battens, boom, upper 1. Make sure the bow of the boat is pointing
and lower mast from your delivery kit into the wind and that their are No Overhead
Remove your sail from the sail bag and Electrical Wires in the Area! Also make sure
have the three battens handy. Your battens that the mast step hole and mast butt are
should comprise of: Two long and one short perfectly clean; any sand or dirt in the mast
(figure 26). figure 26
step will grind into the gelcoat and can
damage the mast step.
Tip: When unfolding sail, make sure that the area
is free of sharp objects that could damage the sail! 2. Place the mast butt against a flat solid
To ensure the batten tips do not fall off inside the object. By placing a towel or piece of
pocket when the battens are removed, it is sug- cardboard on the ground it will help
gested that you tape the batten tips. prolong the life of the plastic mast butt.

3. Lift the mast from the head of the sail

2. Unfold the sail. Starting from the head
and walk toward the mast butt, raising
of the sail locate the top batten pocket. In-
the mast hand over hand until vertical.
sert the smallest of the three battens into
the top batten pocket (figure 27). 4. Make sure that the gooseneck is facing
the stern of the boat before lifting.
3. Insert the battens so that the curved end
is inserted fi rst. When inserting the figure 27 | pocket opening 5. Keeping your hands a good distance
batten into the pocket, you will be applying apart, lift the mast over the mast step hole
pressure against elastic located in the end (figure 30a).
of the pocket. As you press against
6. Allow the mast to carefully slide down
the elastic, slide the batten in and down
into the step. Do not drop the mast into the
so that the tip rests in the closed end of
step for it will cause damage!
the pocket (figure 28). To remove: press the
end into the elastic, and slide the tip to 7. Remove any wraps in the sail sleeve.
the open end of the pocket.

4. Continue down the sail, inserting the

two remaining battens.

Note: Before folding the sail make sure to remove

the battens.

figure 30a: Stepping the Mast

5. Slide the top section of the mast into the
figure 28 | closed end
lower section until the top sections plastic
collar is snug against the aluminum of the
lower section. Make sure arrows line up. Attaching the Boom
6. Find the opening in the sail sleeve 1. Before attaching the boom locate the
located at the foot of the sail (figure 29). outhaul line from the delivery kit line bag.
Slide the sleeve of the sail over the mast, Insert the gooseneck pin into the forward
aligning the cunningham grommet with end of the boom and walk aft, exerting
the gooseneck and removing any twists in pressure towards the mast, to keep it
the sleeve (figure 30a). in place (figure 30b).

Tip: Th e head of the sail does not rotate easily on

the masthead, so it is suggested to align the head
of the sail with the gooseneck before stepping
the mast (figure 30a). figure 29 | class sail button, cunningham grommet

figure 30b | boom, gooseneck pin

8. Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the outhaul line from the deliv- [Link] the items in the pack and lay them on
ery kit line bag. Tie a bowline with the the deck (fi gure 37).
outhaul line to the fairlead located at the
end of the boom (fi gure 31). 2. Dead end a pulley block to the longer grey
line (Spec 12) (fi gure 38).
2. Lead the line through the grommet in
the clew of the sail and then back through 3. Measure 9 inches/23 cm from the end of the
the fairlead (figure 32). pulley block and tie a bowline loop, with the
grey line, around the boom. Make sure you
3. Lead the line forward along the boom can get two fi ngers between the boom and the figure 37 figure 38
and cleat off at the clam cleat on the top of loop (figure 39).
the boom (fi gure 33). Tie a bowline in the figure 31 figure 32 | grommet, clew
free end of the line (fi gure 34). 4. Take the non-pulley end of the grey line
and thread it through the outhaul end fitting
on the boom (figure 40).

5. Pass the same end through the pulley hook

block (fi gure 41).

6. Take it back to the outhaul boom end fit-

ting and dead end it to this (figure 42 & 43). figure 39 figure 40
figure 33 figure 34
7. Now dead end the pink line to the outhaul
cleat (figure 44).
9. Rigging the Clew Tie Down: Laser Standard Models
8. Take the other end of the pink line and
1. Locate the clew tie down line from the thread it through the pulley which is
delivery kit line bag. attached to the grey line (fi gure 45).

2. Wrap the clew tie down line through 9. Th is is how it should look. Once you have
the clew grommet and around the boom done this you will not have do it again as it
figure 41 figure 42 figure 43
two times (figure 35) and secure it with a is left on the boom permanently (figure 46).
square knot (fi gure 36). Be sure that the
10. Now attach a pulley to the bottom sec-
line runs on the inside of the outhaul.
tion. Put the mast with the sail into the mast
Tip: Th e clew tie down should hold the clew of the hole, take the short pink line and thread one
sail close to the boom yet it should still be able to end through the small hole in the gooseneck
slide forward and aft when adjusting the outhaul. (fi gure 47). Take both ends of the pink line
and thread them through the top of a pulley figure 44
block (fi gure 48). Now separate both ends and
take them around the back of the mast and tie
figure 45 figure 46
figure 35 | outhaul them together with a reef knot (figure 49).

11. Make sure the pulley sits at the bottom of

the gooseneck fitting (fi gure 50). Th is fitting
can be left on permanantly and the line is
taped on so that the ends of the rope are kept
tidy and out of the way (fi gure 51).
figure 47 figure 48 figure 49

figure 36
figure 50 figure 51
Rigging the Outhaul: Laser Race Models 9. Rigging the Clew Tie Down: Laser Race Models

[Link] we can attach the sail to the boom with 1. Locate the clew tie down line from the
the hook as shown (figure 52). delivery kit line bag.

2. Put the boom on the gooseneck and pull the 2. Wrap the clew tie down line through
pink line so that the pulley is pulled close to the clew grommet and around the boom
the outhaul cleat (figure 53). two times and secure it with a square knot
(fi gure 61). Be sure that the line runs on
3. With the pink line, tie a bowline loop 4 the inside out the outhaul.
inches back from the kicker boom fitting,
around the boom. Make sure you can get two figure 52 figure 53 Option: You can purchase (through your local
fi ngers between the boom and the loop (fi gure dealer) a clew tie down strap (figure 62). Release
54). the Velcro so that the strap is straight. Wrap the
longer end of the strap (the length without the Laser
4. Take the end of the pink line and pass it logo) around the boom and through the d-ring.
over the top of the cunningham line and Continue the strap around the boom and secure the
thread it through the pulley on the mast Velcro. Thread the Velcro strap with the Laser logo
down towards the deck (fi gure 55). through the clew grommet and secure.
5. Th read the pink line from front to back
through the deck pulley (figure 56). Pass it
figure 54 figure 55
through the deck cleat, making a rope handle
at the end (fi gure 57, see previous instruc-
tions).

6. Finally tie the clew of the sail down with

the short grey line in the usual way. Remem-
ber to tie it very tight so that the bottom of
the sail is as close as possible to the boom
(figure 58). figure 62 figure 63
figure 61
figure 56 figure 57
7. To allow the outhaul to be let out with ease,
a piece of shock cord can be attached to the
clew tie down (fi gure 59). Th is is optional.
Dead eye the shock cord to the clew tie down.
Dead eye the other end of the shock cord to the
outhaul boom cleat (fi gure 60).

Note: Laser 4.7 sailors will need to make the following

amendments to the rigging of the outhaul: Attach the
inboard end of the return elastic to the forward boom block
eye. Remove the loop around the boom from the Spec 12
(outboard) rope. The loop is not required for the 4.7. Adjust
the loop around the boom in the pink Spectra rope so that it
rests at the kicker key when at MAX outhaul on.
figure 58 figure 59

figure 60
10. Rigging the Vang: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Vang: Laser Race Models

1. Locate the vang line from the delivery kit 1. Check the items in the pack and lay them
line bag. Retrieve the two vang blocks and on the deck (figure 72).
vang key from the delivery kit.
2. Fit the bottom vang fitting onto the lower
2. Take the smaller of the two vang blocks mast vang [Link] will need to use
and remove the pin and ring. Insert the a screwdriver and pliers (figure 73).
vang key and secure with the pin and ring vang key figure 65
sm vang block 3. Take the grey rope (Spec 12) and dead end
(figure 64). Hook the key into the vang slot
one end to the top single pulley block (figure
on the underside of the boom (figure 65).
figure 64 | becket 74). Put block into boom vang fitting (figure
3. Use the provided pin and ring to attach 75). figure 72 figure 73
the larger of the two vang blocks to the vang
4. Take the other end of the grey line and
tang, located below the gooseneck on the
thread it through the middle pulley of the
mast (figure 66). Make sure that the cleat is
bottom vang, from top to bottom (figure 76).
on the bottom side of the block.
[Link] take it through the top block, from
4. Take one end of the vang line and tie a figure 74
bottom to top (figure 77). Attach the end of
bowline to the becket on the small vang figure 66| cleat, vang tang
the grey line to the shackle of the double
block on the boom (figure 67). figure 75 figure 76
pulley block using the dead end method
5. Lead the line to the forward vang block (figure 78).
and through the upper sheave of the large
6. Take the blue line (5 mm Excel Racing)
vang block on the mast (figure 68).
and dead end one end to the bottom of the
6. Lead the line back up and around the double block (figure 79). With the other end,
small vang block on the boom and back thread it through the starboard side pulley
down to the large mast vang block block on the bottom vang fitting from top to
(figure 69). figure 67 bottom (figure 80). Then thread it through figure 77 figure 78
figure 68 | upper sheave the double pulley block on the starboard
7. Lead the line around the inner block and
side, from bottom to top (figure 81).
down through the teeth of the cleat located
on the underside of the block (figure 70). Tie Note: Starboard side is the righthand side of the boat
off the free end of the line with a bowline when facing towards the bow, i.e. front of the boat.
(figure 71).
7. Take the rope to the bottom vang fitting
and thread it through the port side pulley
block from top to bottom (figure 82). Take
figure 70 it back up to the double pulley block and
figure 79 figure 80 figure 81
thread it through the port side pulley, from
figure 69
bottom to top (figure 83).

8. Now take the rope down to the bottom

vang fitting, thread it through the last cen-
tral pulley, remove from top to bottom and
pass it through the metal eye (figure 84).

9. Lastly pass the rope through the vang

cleat and make a rope handle near the cleat. figure 82 figure 83 figure 84
Leave a long tail on the rope (figure 85).
complete vang 10. Dead end the end of the rope on the
centerboard as shown. This will allow you
to easily grab hold of the vang rope while
sailing (figure 86).

figure 71
figure 85 figure 86
11. Rigging the Cunningham: Laser Standard Models Rigging the Cunningham: Laser Race Models
1. Locate the cunningham line from
1. Check the items in the pack and lay
the delivery kit.
them on the deck (fi gure 91).
2. Tie a bowline around the vang tang
2. Dead eye the grey line (Spec 12) onto a
(figure 87).
pulley block (fi gure 92).
3. Lead the line up through the
3. Dead end the yellow line onto the other
cunningham grommet in the sail (figure
figure 89 | bullseye fairlead pulley block (figure 93).
88) and back down to the bullseye fairlead
on the deck (fi gure 89). 4. Take the grey line through the cun-
ningham cringle eye on the sail and take
4. Lead the line through the clam cleat figure 91 figure 92
the rope down to the kicker mast fitting
and tie a bowline in the tail (fi gure 90). figure 87 | vang tang
and tie a knot around it. Adjust the line so
that the pulley block is as close to the cun-
ningham eye as possible (figure 94).

5. Take the end of the yellow line through

the pulley block which is attached to the
figure 90
grey line, as shown and pull it through
until both blocks sit next to each other
(fi gure 95 & 96). figure 93 figure 94

6. Take the yellow line down to the kicker

mast fitting and tie a knot around it.
Make sure that the two blocks are still sit-
ting next to each other (figure 98).

figure 88 | grommet 7. Pass the end of the yellow line through

the remaining pulley block by the cun-
ningham eye on the sail (fi gure 98 & 99).
figure 95 figure 96 figure 97
8. Now take it down to the deck fitting and
pass it through the deck pulley from front
to back (figure 100).

[Link], take the end of the yellow line

through the deck cleat and make a line
handle (figure 101).

figure 98 figure 99

complete cunningham

figure 100 figure 101

12. Mast Retaining Line 13. Daggerboard Retainer
Standard and Race Models Standard Model
1. Tie the two white bobbles to the red 1. Retrieve the daggerboard retainer shock
4 mm line, one to each end (thread the cord from the delivery kit line bag. On the
bobble on and tie an overhand knot to ends of the shock cord there will
secure it). Make a bight (loop) in the rope be two brummel hooks (figure 71).
figure 71 figure 72
with the large bobble on the short side
2. Take one end of the daggerboard
(fi gure 102).
figure 103 retainer and fold it a third of the way
2 Pass the bight of rope around the mast down the total length of the line
clockwise, standing on the port side of (figure 72).
the boat. Pass both the long (small bobble)
3. At the fold in the line, insert the two
and short (large bobble) through the eye of figure 102
pieces of shock cord through the hole in
the bight (figure 103)... and pull tight so
the top of the daggerboard
the bight of rope pulls tight on the large
(figure 73). figure 74
bobble (figure 104).
4. Take the free ends of the shock cord and
3. Now taking the long end of the rope figure 73
put them through the shock cord loop.
(with the small bobble), pass a loop of rope
Pull until tight around the edge of the
through the port eye of the block plate.
board (figure 74).
Pass the small bobble through this loop
and pull tight (figure 105 & 106). 5. When you are ready to launch, place
the daggerboard in the trunk with the
4. When rigged, the retaining line will
shock cord facing towards the bow. Take
look like this, the mid-point of the line
figure 104 figure 105 one end of the daggerboard retaining line
will sit approximately 17 cm from the
around the starboard side of the mast and
lower mast (figure 107).
through the bow handle. Take the other
end of the line around the port side and
connect the two brummel hooks.

14. Rigging the Rudder

Standard and Race Models
1. Locate the tiller with extension and
rudder from the delivery kit.

2. Take the tiller with extension and slide

figure 106 the tiller into the head of the rudder.
Make sure that the rudder downhaul
line is threaded up through the pintles figure 77
(figure 76).
figure 107 figure 76 | rudder downhaul
3. Align the hole in the top of the tiller line
with that in the rudder head and insert
the rudder retaining pin (fi gure 77). It is
suggested to tape over the
retaining pin to prevent the mainsheet
from catching on it.
Attaching the 4. Slide the tiller with extension under 16. Sail Number Application
Rudder the traveler line. Align the pintles over
the gudgeons and press down to secure
When rigging the rudder
(Figure 78). Adjust the spring clip once Provided in the delivery kit are 4 red and 8 blue or black sail numbers. In order to participate in Laser
it is important to place the
tiller and extension under- the rudder is on to secure in place with regattas you will need to apply the numbers to your sail for easy identification. The sail plaque affixed
neath the traveler line. the safety clip and ring. To release press to the cockpit of yout boat indicates your sail number.
on the rudder lift stop and lift the rudder
head straight up.
figure 78
5. The rudder downhaul line locks the
rudder in the down position. Before
launching be sure that the line is loose so
that the rudder can remain in the upright
position. When you are ready to sail, pull
Allow plenty of slack in the on the rudder downhaul and the rudder
traveler line before sliding blade will lower into the water. Tie off the figure 79
the entire tiller and extension
line to the cleat on the tiller while sailing
under only the traveler line
(figure 79).
that is connected between
the two fairleads. Slide the 15. Mainsheet
rudder head back and insert Standard and Race Models
the pintles of the rudderhead
into place. Insert the safety 1. Locate the mainsheet and large traveler
ring into the bottom of the block from the delivery kit. At the stern figure 81
pintle. Tighten the traveler of the boat attach the large traveler block figure 80
line so that it is taught but to the small traveler block by joining the
still allows the traveler block
hooks (fi gure 80).
to move freely across the
traveler, clearing the tiller. 2. Take the mainsheet through the becket
of the boom end block and tie a stop-
per knot (figure 81). Lead the line down
through the large traveler block and back
through the boom end block (figure 82). figure 83
figure 82
Note: Th e use of a stopper knot here is so that maxi-
mum mainsheet tension may be achieved. Laser 4.7 Radial Laser

3. Continue the line forward through

the boom bail (Figure 83), through the
Taping the Traveler forward boom block (Figure 84) and down
Blocks to the ratchet block. Lead the line through
the ratchet block making sure you hear a
It is recommended that figure 84
ratcheting noise when trimming in the
you tape the traveler block
sail. Tie a stopper knot in the tail end of
brummels so that they
the line.
do not become twisted Sail Care
or disconnected. Note: Mainsheet block will differ in appearance
Flaking or rolling your sail is highly recommended. Crumpling a sail will crack the fi nish of the
depending on whether you have a Laser Standard
laser race material which quickly reduces the life of the sail (Figure 85).
Model or Laser Race Model. laser block
standard
block
Option: LaserPerformance has teamed up with
top parts suppliers to offer the following new and
exciting aftermarket items for your Laser, Laser
Radial or Laser 4.7: FRP blades, Laser Blocks
and Friction Pad. You can get these items from Figure 83 | Tip: Remove the battens before flaking the sail.
LaserPerformance or your local dealer.
17. Installation of Optional Care, Maintenance and Service of your LaserPerformance
Mainsheet Side Cleats Product
Before rigging read and familiarize yourself with the rigging manual. Failure to adhere to these guidelines could
invalidate your warranty.
These cleats come with your boat as part of
Maintenance
your parts bag. We don’t install them at • Keep the equipment clean by frequently flushing with fresh water. In corrosive atmospheres, stainless parts
the factory because not everyone likes to may show discoloration/brown staining around screw holes and rivets. This is not serious and can be removed
figure 84 figure 85 with a fine abrasive.
sail with them.
• Excess water should be removed from the hull.
• Ropes, rigging and fittings should be checked at regular intervals for wear and tear, including winch gear.
1. Position the side cleat so that the center
• All moving parts should be lightly lubricated to avoid jamming, i.e., McLube, dry Teflon or a dry silicone
of the jaws are in line with the end of the based spray. Do not use oil.
grabrail and the screw holes are on the • Inspect shackles, pins and clevis rings and tape up to stop snagging sails, ropes and clothing and to prevent
them from coming undone.
edge of the non-skid deck. (fi gure 84). • When refastening screws do not over tighten as this may strip the thread and do not reuse Nyloc nuts more
than three times.
2. Spot mark the holes with a 2.5mm drill • Damaged or worn parts should be replaced.
using the cleat as a guide. Remove cleat • Sails should be thoroughly washed down with fresh water, dried and stored in a dry place.
(fi gure 85). Trailers and Trolleys/Dollies
• It is highly recommended that a trolley/dolly is used to launch and recover your boat. Dragging your hull up
3. Drill screw holes with a 2.5mm drill onto a beach or slip way will wear away the gel coat or polyethylene and damage the boat. Also, the hull should
figure 86 figure 87
(fi gure 86). not be left on a pebble beach as the hull skin could be dented.
• Trailers should be rinsed with fresh water and checked at regular intervals. It is recommended that trailers be
4. Apply silicone sealant or sikka fl ex to serviced annually. The trailer and road base should never be immersed in water.\
• Trailers and trolleys supplied by LaserPerformance are designed to transport the hull in the best possible
the holes to avoid leaking (fi gure 87). manner to avoid damaging the hull. For instance LaserPerformance does not recommend support hulls on
rollers except on the keel line and only where there is a reinforced keelson. We also recommend gunwale hung
5. Screw the cleat to the deck so that the trolleys for our smaller products. Hulls supported by a trolley bunk or wide strap must have the ability to drain
jaws open outboard. Screws = 4.2mm dia. water away from the hull. Trolley bunks padded with carpet or foam can cause blistering in the gelcoat and
changes to the hull color. Please do not transport your LaserPerformance product on a trailer or trolley that has
x 38mm (figure 88).
not been specifically designed for the product. Hulls damaged through using an incorrectly designed or
wrongly set up trailer or trolley are not covered under warranty.
6. Check that the jaws open and close eas-
• When securing your boat to a trailer for transport be very careful that ratchet straps and ropes are not over
ily. Over tightening can cause the cleat figure 88 tightened and that there is sufficient padding under the strap or rope to prevent the hull/deck from being
jaws to jam. damaged through abrasion or pressure.
• Top covers must not be allowed to “flap” when driving at speed. This can abrade the surface of the hull and
damage it. It is recommended if you are towing and plan to use your top cover that an under cover is fitted first
to prevent cover flap damage to the top sides of the hull.
• Repairs to the polyethylene or GRP hulls should be undertaken by persons with the relevant equipment and
skills. Contact LaserPerformance for advice.

Storage
• Your boat should always be tied down securely to the ground when not in use.
• UV light will cause fading to some components and fittings. A cover is recommended to reduce the UV
degradation.
• Do not leave the rig under tension when not sailing or during storage.
• Care must be taken to support the hull adequately if storing on racking or similar. Any sustained point loading
could permanently dent or distort the hull.
• Under covers for LaserPerformance products should be produced from a breathable or semi breathable fabric to
allow moisture to evaporate away from the hull. This is essential to prevent damage to the hull skin. Also, the
hull should never be left in the under cover wet or damp. A combination of moisture and heat over an extended
period can also damage the hull. The under cover is designed to protect the hull when being transported and
should be removed when the hull is being stored. Typical damage includes small bubbles or blisters, excessive
print through of glass reinforcement, foam or wood and color change.
SEITECH dollies are the easy-to-use, light- • Rudders and centerboards must never be stored wet in carry/combo bags. This can cause blistering, print
weight, small boat transportation solution. through and warpage.
The Laser dolly has been designed specifically • All our GRP products are designed to be dry sailed. In other words stored on dry land. If you intend to leave your
boat on a mooring for any length of time it is essential that you apply an osmosis barrier coat.
to fit and support the shape of the hull. Special LaserPerformance can recommend a suitable product.
features of the Laser dolly include a rounded
bow support for secure transportation and On Water Towing
gunwale supports for proper storage. • Towing your LaserPerformance product at high speed (10 – 20 knots) behind a rib or power boat can seriously
damage the hull. Boats damaged in this manner are not covered by the warranty. LaserPerformance recom-
SEITECH dollies allow you to spend less time mends a maximum towing speed of 6 knots.
getting your boat to and from the water and
more time on the water.

[Link]
Owner Information Notes Before Launching
* Check that the stern plug
and bailer plug are securely
in place.
hull identification number
* Make sure that the auto-
matic bailer is in the closed
position (the plug located
in the cockpit should be
purchased from date of purchase tightly in the hole).

* Wear your life jacket.

* Make sure that you are

contact name phone # wearing the appropriate
clothing for the sailing
conditions.

* Be sure to check the

address:
weather report before going
sailing.

* Stay hydrated and bring

city / state / county zip / postal code plenty of water.

* Wear plenty of sunscreen.

* Have Fun!
hull color: sail #:

registration information (if applicable)

trailer vin #

license plate number state / county register in

registration number state / county register in LaserPerformance equips our Laser, Laser Radial and Laser 4.7 with the highest quality parts available
from top suppliers. We partner with key suppliers such as English Braids, North Sails, Holt and Harken
to develop top of the line dinghy equipment so your boat will perform at the highest level with the
factory supplied rope, sails, and hardware. Shop online at [Link] or at an autho-

insurance information rized LaserPerformance dealer to be sure you are getting genuine LaserPerformance parts and accesso-
ries. Visit [Link] to fi nd your local dealer.

Laser Class Association

maintenance For more information and to link to Laser sailors around the world,
join the International Laser Class Association.

[Link]
[Link]
LaserPerformance NORTH AMERICA
300 Highpoint Avenue
Portsmouth, Rhode Island 02871
t +1 800 966 SAIL
f +1 401 683 0990

LaserPerformance EUROPE
Station Works, Long Buckby
Northamptonshire NN6 7PF
United Kingdom
t +44 (0) 1327 841600
f +44 (0) 1327 841601

LaserPerformance ASIA
Room 3415
China Merchants Tower
Shun Tak Centre
No. 168-200 Connaught Road Central
Hong Kong
t +852 2902 2818
f +852 2587 7868

LaserPerformance AUSTRALIA
t +61 (0) 3 9016 4151

LaserPerformance MIDDLE EAST

T5 Middle East LLC All rights reserved. ©2010 LaserPerformance.
LaserPerformance and associated logos are
Dubai Investment Park
trademarks. Laser, SB3, Sunfish, and Dart
PO Box 38442 are trademarks used under license.
Dubai, UAE LaserPerformance reserves the right to make
t +971 (4) 885 7601 design and/or specification changes to any
of their products as part of their continuous
development program.
LASER PER FOR [Link]