Chapter 5

Production
Chapter overview

This chapter focuses on the process of developing and bringing six selected rendered products

into tangible form, with individual emphasis on each steps of product making. The process starts

with drafting of products, prototyping, and production. Once the patterns of final selected

designs are made in the drafting phase and tested in prototyping the production begins. The

production phase starts after the prototyping stage. The many processes of sketching,

development, and production that result in the final realization of the six rendered items will be

the focus of this entire chapter.

Drafting

The process of drafting acts as a main foundation for process of production. The drafting

involves creating detailed plan that outline the specifications, dimensions, and overall structure

of each product design. The process of drafting requires a serious level of specialized capacity

and perception.

Men’s footwear 1 (mule)

The process of making shoes involves a number of steps, starting with the development and last

selection and moving towards the creation of a tape form of the shoe design that includes the

design lines. A prototype is then built using the pattern that was developed in accordance with

the design specifications. At last, the completed shoes are manufactured. Demanding attention is

given to each component associated with the design. To achieve the desired outcome while
preserving the highest level of quality and accuracy in the shoe manufacturing process, each step

is meticulously completed.

figure

Men’s footwear 2 (boot)

The design lines were marked with high precision due to the three-dimensional structure of the

plastic shoe last. A center line was drawn from the center front to the center back of the last

immediately after taping the last, the pattern was drawn on outside of the last, starting with the

center line on the taped last. Once the design on the taped last was finalized, the tape was cut

along the centerline marked on the last. Following that, a design standard was developed to aid in

the extraction of correct patterns for the upper and lining components. These patterns were

obtained with great care, assuring adherence to the design standard and accurate duplication of

the desired design. After that, patterns are immediately derived from the tape form of the
previous, taking technical balances into account. This methodical technique ensures the

manufacturing of well-crafted and well-fitting men's Boot. The Shoes design, which began as a

Sketch, was precisely copied onto the taped last.

Figure

Women’s footwear 1 (mule)

The shoes design, which began as a Sketch, was copied onto the taped last. The design lines were

marked with high precision due to the three-dimensional structure of the wooden shoe last. A

center line was drawn from the center front to the center back of the last immediately after

tapping the last. Once the design on the taped last was finalized, the tape was cut along the

centerline marked on the last. Following that, a design standard was developed to aid in the

extraction of correct patterns for the upper and lining components. These patterns were obtained

with great care, assuring adherence to the design standard and accurate duplication of the desired

design.

Figure
Figure

Women’s footwear 2 (ankle heel)

The drafting of the women's shoe begins with the last drawing. The first step is taping last and

transferring the design lines on the shoe last, which is a foot-shaped form used as a base for shoe

construction. A tape form, containing the design lines, is created and pasted onto a boxboard

sheet. This step helps in visualizing the shoe's design and serves as a guide for pattern-making.

For heel designs, the patterns were drawn directly from the design lines on the last. The design

lines on the tape form were used as a reference to create the patterns for the components. This

includes adding allowances for lasting and folding to the patterns. A 2cm lasting allowance

ensures there is enough material for attaching the sole, while a 5mm folding allowance accounts

for folding and finishing the edges of the shoe. Similarly, patterns for the shoe lining were

created using the same design criteria.

Figure
Bag

The first step in creating this moon shaped bag was calculating the proportions. The bag's height

was approximately fixed at 30 cm, while its width was set at 29 cm. The bag's shape was

painstakingly sketched on a box board sheet using precise measurements. Following that, the

design was scribbled onto the bag's outlined shape. After the design lines had been finalized,

slotting was done with a notch tool. Patterns for the bag were then created.

Experimental(dress)

The Patterns of the dress were extracted on a pattern sheet when a standardized version of the

design was established. Technical formulas were used during the pattern development phase to

ensure accuracy in garment construction. These calculations accounted for different garment-

technical variables includes, material requires, seam allowances, stitch placement, draping style

etc.

Prototyping

Prototyping is the following stage, in which the design is tested and improved by building

physical models. Following the drafting and prototyping processes, all prototypes were
thoroughly tested, and any necessary changes were made. The purpose of the prototype was to

ensure that the pattern had less ornamentation and still conveyed the intended design.

Men’s footwear 1 (mule)

Figure

The mule design was used for men's shoes. Following the cutting of the patterns in the material,

the patterns were stitched in the same manner as the design. The stitched upper lasted to evaluate

the lasting allowance and pattern fits. The designs were accepted as identical, but the colors of

the shoe were changed, and layers were added by the jurors in the prototype jury.

Men’s 2 footwear (boot)

Figure
The second shoe design for men was the closed shoe. Right odd was built for the prototype, as

was everything else. After cutting and folding each pattern, they were sewed. Following the

completion of the shoe fitting, trials were conducted to examine the patterns and the shoe

closure.

Women’s 1 footwear (mule)

Figure

The first of Ladies' footwear was a pair of mules with the odd one being manufactured without a

sole attachment. Toe patterns decorated with machine embroidery were outsourced by the vendor

during the process of cutting patterns. Following the completion of the cutting, a backer was

added to offer durability and shape to the boot. After skiving the leather, folding was formed,

and the upper and lining were stitched

Women’s 2 footwear (ankle heel)

The second shoe of Ladies' footwear was a pair of ankle heels with the odd one being

manufactured without a sole attachment. In the prototype, the picture of ornamentation and few

patches were simply glued to create the appearance of embellishment.

Bag
The moon bag's prototype began with the cutting of calico fabric, with one pattern of base like

front and back panel. Given the bag's unique design requirements, it was then stitched with great

technical expertise. The bag's base was stitched to the side gusset belt to ensure a solid base.

Front and bag panel was also joined to the gusset. Ornamentation of the bag was paste of the

front panel to give idea of size and colors.

Experimental(dress)

Figure

Figure

Production
After the initial prototype of a product is developed, the fitting trail is done for adjustments and

improvements to be made before the final production begins, ensuring that the product meets the

desired standards and customer requirement. After solving all the problems of material and

pattern the process of production started. It can mean setting up production lines, acquiring

supplies, and putting quality control procedures in place.

Figure

Men’s footwear 1 (mule)

Figure

Ornamentation:

The ornamentation of footwear consisted of hand embroidery on the vamp of mule. The

embroidery was done with threads of various colors.

Pattern Cutting: The footwear consisted of two patterns one was apron with was cut in leather

and other pattern was of vamp patterns which was cut from dark blue satin fabric.

Folding and Layering: The dark blue satin patterns was folded after the process of

ornamentation and placed over the apron, piping was sandwiched between apron and vamp. The

patterns were stitched together.

Lining Attachment: Once the upper was stitched, the lining was stitched and attached to

the upper. Lining also consisted of two patterns.

Top Stitching: The top stitch was the final stitch for join upper and lining that lead to completing

the shoes.

Toe Puff: The upper was finished by adding a toe puff will process of lasting. This component

help shapes the toe parts of the shoe and maintain its structure during use.

Figure
Lasting: The lasted pair of shoes was prepared by attaching the insole. The lasting process

involved stretching the upper over the last to shape it.

Figure

Roughing and Sole Attachment: To start the process of sole attachment, the lasted shoes was

buffed from the bottom to remove extra material with help of buffing machine. After that lasted

shoe was marked for glue application with help of sole. Both the sole and the final pair were

cleaned with meka solution to remove dust particles. At last DC solution is applied on lasted

shoe and sole for attachment. The sole was then heated in a heating oven to attach it to the upper.

Figure
Sole-Attached Finishing: After the sole attachment process, any extra thread was burned off,

ensuring a clean finish.

Figure

In socks and Finishing: In socks, along with an EVA sheet for added comfort, were inserted

into the shoe. Finishing cream was applied to give the shoe a polished and refined look.

Men’s 2 footwear (boot)

Figure
The second design for men footwear was boot with strap closure. There were many steps and

procedures carried out while the production of the footwear:

Ornamentation:

The ornamentation of the footwear was done on the apron with multicolored the thread,

technique of couching was used.

Figure

Pattern Cutting: The patterns were cut from dark blue leather and bleached denim fabric.

Folding and Layering: The blue leather vamp patterns were folded and placed over the after

colorful patterns to create a layered effect and piping. The patterns were stitched together

Lining Attachment: Once the upper was stitched, the lining was stitched and attached to
the upper.

Top Stitching: The top stitch was the final stitch for completing the shoes.

Lasting: The lasted pair of shoes was prepared by attaching the insole. The lasting process

involved stretching the upper over the last to shape it.

Figure

Toe Puff and Back Stiffener: The upper was finished by adding a toe puff and back stiffener.

These components help shape the front and back parts of the shoe and maintain its structure

during use.

Figure
Roughing and Sole Attachment: To start the process of sole attachment, the lasted shoes was

buffed from the bottom to remove extra material with help of buffing machine. After that lasted

shoe was marked for glue application with help of sole. Both the sole and the final pair were

cleaned with meka solution to remove dust particles. At last DC solution is applied on lasted

shoe and sole for attachment. The sole was then heated in a heating oven to attach it to the upper.

Figure

Sole-Attached Finishing: After the sole attachment process, any extra thread was burned off,

ensuring a clean finish.

In socks and Finishing: In socks, along with an EVA sheet for added comfort, were inserted

into the shoe. Finishing cream was applied to give the shoe a polished and refined look.

Women’s 1 footwear (mule)

Figure
The first of Ladies' footwear was a pair of mule with ornamentation on toe continuing towards

the vamp part of the footwear.

Ornamentation: The ornamentation pattern for the toe cap was formed with help of machine and

hand embroidery which continued till vamp. The piping was done on the vamp part with rust

leather.

Figure

Cutting and Folding: The patterns for the mule were cut from the selected material, considering

its tightness and stretch. The edges of the patterns were folded to ensure a smooth appearance in

the final product.

Stitching: there were two patterns of the footwear, therefore stitching consisted of two patterns

of upper and two patterns of lining.

Trimming Allowance: The excess lining allowance was trimmed to finish the edges
neatly.

Insole Preparation: The insole was made for durability. Two layers were cut, with one layer

serving as the full insole and the second layer having a window marking for lasting. The shank

was sandwiched between the two layers of the insole. The toe part and heel of the insole were

covered.

Heel and platform Production: The lasted shoe and the pair of last was sent to the vendor for the

customization of wooden heel and wooden platform.

Lasting: Once the insole was ready, the lasting process began. The shoes lasted.

ensuring that the upper was stretched over the last.

Heel Sole Attachment: The process of attaching the heel and sole began. A pattern was made for

the sole sheet, which was then cut accordingly to the last. A DC solution was made for sole

attachment, which was applied to both the last pair and the sole. The sole was then attached to

the upper by heating it in a heating chamber.

Roughing: After lasting, the shoes were buffed on the roughing machine to prepare for sole

attachment.

Sole-Attached Finishing: After the sole attachment process, any extra thread was burned off,

ensuring a clean finish.

In socks and Finishing: In socks, along with the piece of EVA sheet, was inserted into the shoe.

Finishing spray was applied to give the shoe a polished and refined look.
This detailed process highlights the various steps involved in the production of women's mule,

including cutting. folding, stitching, ornamentation, insole preparation, lasting, sole attachment,

and finishing.

Women’s 2 footwear (ankle heel)

Cutting: Taking into account the material's flexibility and tightness, the patterns of ankle heel

were cut from it.

Folding and stitching: after the process of cutting the components were folded and stitched

together to form the upper.

Trimming Allowance: after the attachment of upper and lining, the excess lining allowance was

trimmed to finish the edges neatly.

Toe Puff: The upper was finished by adding a toe puff. This component help shaping the toe part

of the shoe and maintain its structure during use.

Lasting: The lasting procedure started as soon as the process of stitching and trimming is

completed.

Ornamentation:

Heel Sole Attachment: The process of attaching the heel and sole began. A pattern was made for

the sole sheet, which was then cut accordingly to the last. A DC solution was made for sole

attachment, which was applied to both the last pair and the sole. The sole was then attached to

the upper by heating it in a heating chamber.

Roughing and Sole Attachment: To start the process of sole attachment, the lasted shoes was

buffed from the bottom to remove extra material with help of buffing machine. After that lasted
shoe was marked for glue application with help of sole. Both the sole and the final pair were

cleaned with meka solution to remove dust particles. At last DC solution is applied on lasted

shoe and sole for attachment. The sole was then heated in a heating oven to attach it to the upper.

Sole-Attached Finishing: After the sole attachment process, any extra thread was burned off,

ensuring a clean finish.

In socks and Finishing: In socks, along with an EVA sheet for added comfort, were inserted

into the shoe. Finishing cream was applied to give the shoe a polished and refined look.

This detailed process highlights the various steps involved in the production of women's mule,

including cutting. folding, stitching, ornamentation, insole preparation, lasting, sole attachment,

and finishing.

Bag

The moon bag's prototype began with the cutting of calico fabric, with one pattern of base like

front and back panel. Given the bag's unique design requirements, it was then stitched with great

technical expertise. The bag's base was stitched to the side gusset belt to ensure a solid base. A

base made of leather and backer was securely attached onto the base to improve the structural

integrity of the bag. The top stitch was used to meticulously attach the upper and lining.

Following the completion of the sewing procedure, the bag underwent a careful finishing process

to ensure its overall quality and appearance. Throughout the manufacturing process, attention to

detail and technical expertise were prioritized, resulting in a tote bag that meets both functional

and aesthetic requirements.

Chapter summary