Garment Production systems
1. Production system
is a result of arranging inputs, their conversion process and output based on some logic and
functions.
The objectives of learning garment production systems are:
1. Examine the features of different kinds of garment production systems
2. Compare and contrast the different production systems
3. Select and critically relate the merits and demerits of a production systems to suit a running product.
Production system has four primary factors that make up the system.
Processing time
Transportation time
Temporary storage time
Inspection time = Total Production Time per garment and it is called throughput time.
Processing time is the sum total of working time of all operations (~SMV) involved in manufacturing a
garment.
Transportation time involves the time taken to transport semi finished or finished garments from
one department to another or from one operation/machine to another.
Temporary storage time is the time during which the garment/bundle is idle as it waits for the next
operation or for completion of certain parts.
Inspection time is time taken for inspecting semi finished garments for any defects during
manufacturing or inspecting fully finished garments before packing.
Characteristics of a system
1. Flexibility – high is better
2. Throughput time low
3. Skill demand and training low
4. Line balancing and supervision low
5. Application of IE/specialization high
6. Monitoring Quality low
7. WIP low?
8. Job satisfaction high
Other Team spirit high
Space utilisation
Cost of investment low
Cost of maintenance
Product types
Staple –no variations
Semi styled – minor style changes –shirts/ dress pants, ladies/men's underwear
Styled –frequent style changes – blouses, cargo pants, jackets, jeans
Fashionable - lingerie, brassieres, dresses, party frocks
2. Type of systems
2.1. Couture- make through - garment done by 1 person/tailor system
1. ADVANTAGES 2. DISADVANTAGES
Low capital investment High skill
Flexible High manufacturing cost
Little supervision Simple operations done by skill operators
Job satisfaction Low productivity
Low WIP and handling time Little use of work aids
No absenteeism problems as one
completes 1 garment Inefficient work flow
Any convenient layout Long training period
High quality Quality depends on individual level
This system is limited to couture and sample making
2.2 Division of labour – Rather than one person attending all tasks, two or more individuals
concentrate and specialize on different tasks.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Shorter operation line Larger WIP
High productivity Long through put time
Easy operator training Excessive handling
Possibility of using specialized machines More line balancing
High engineered work place Absenteeism, LTO disturbs
Less job satisfaction
2.a Process system
Parts are made by well defined sections and operators are assigned to complete the part
There are two types of whole garment production systems:
(1) Complete whole garment and
(2) Departmental whole garment.
In the whole garment system, an individual makes the entire garment from cutting the cloth to sewing and
pressing the garment. The garment is ready for dispatch once the operator completes the final operation.
This type of system is used in few places, which are engaged in custom-whole sale; they are normally high
priced and exclusively made for a particular customer. They are limited in number and distribution; normally
about 10–20 garments are made.
The departmental whole garment system is also used by custom wholesale manufacturers as well as high
price or better dress manufacturers. In the departmental whole garment system one individual does all the
work with the equipment allocated to a department. For example, on person does all the cutting work in
cutting department, second person does all the sewing work in sewing department, third person does the
pressing and packing work. The workers in this system may use more than one equipment to complete
his/her job.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Shorter operation line Larger WIP
High productivity Long through put time
Easy operator training Excessive handling
Possibility of using specialized machines More line balancing
High engineered work place Absenteeism, LTO disturbs
Less job satisfaction
This system is more effective when a very large
variety of garments have to be produced in
extremely small quantities.
Labour cost is higher due to the utilization of
In individual piece rate system, the operators will do highly skilled labourers for the particular job.
with full involvement. To finish more pieces, to earn
more money. The operator is more concerned on the
number of pieces finished rather than the
Operator will be specialized in his own working quality of work.
area.
Productivity is less due to lack of
As the pay depends upon the complication of the specialization.
operation, the operator tries to finish the
complicated operation without any difficulties. For long run/bulk quantity of same style is
not effective in this system.
The work in progress (WIP) is reduced, at a time one
cut garment to one operator and so the amount as
inventory is reduced
2.b skill centre – machine wise sections
Work is divided not according to orders but the
operation. Overlocks separately, collar making
separately, Operator switches on to next style
with least effort
ADVANTAGES skill centre DISADVANTAGES
High work In Process equivalent to 4
High Efficiency & labour utilization days
High Utilization of the sewing machinery Skilled Supervisor
Absenteeism & labour turnover has no
impact Strong IE for planning
Less handling due to the bundle size and
handling Quality systems have to be adequate
Operators Training is less than 6 days Individual system rather than team
Easy for Incentive system Bundle System
Lack of trims has no impact First bundle turnover is much higher
No Line Balancing problem
Better Overtime decision
No feeding time loss
Engineered Process & less sewing machines
requirements
Direct labour ratio much higher
2.3 Conventional bundle -part work is carried out by workers and return bundles to the
rack(bank), next operator collects it from the bank and return once his part is completed
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Absenteeism can be tolerated Excessive handling
Flexible enough to cope style changes Longer throughput time
Reduce waiting time Difficult to predict production
Require additional space for racks,
In process Quality control tables and boxes
Incentives and piece work system
Easy training
2.4 Straight line/Synchronized- bundle system
Due to high WIP in above system straight line system was developed. Garment is broken into equal
times and processed in a sequence
As operations are synchronized, i.e. happened at same time, it is require to break operations into equal
times. This was become very difficult task as most operations cannot perform in similar time. So
operations were broken to slightly different times mostly measured in minutes.
his kind of production system is based on a harmonised or synchronised flow of work in each stage of the
garment production process. Synchronisation of time is a critical factor of this system as synchronisation of
workflow could not be done if more variations in standard time (SAM/SMV) of particular operations are
present.
Assume if one operation has a SAM of 1.7 minutes, then all the other operations in the particular production
line should have the same, or closer SAM value. Balancing of standard time for each operator could result in
irrational combinations of whole or part operations which could minimise the efficiency of individual
operators
Layout of a synchro-system for the manufacture of a full sleeve shirt
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Rapid throughput time Not flexible
Low control of WIP Absenteeism
Team atmosphere –job satisfaction Machine break down
Output can be predicted Quality to be controlled
Easy training Large number of machines
Less Space Repairing a defect will break flow.
2.5 Progressive bundle (PBU)is a logical sequence with balance line .The PBS synchro
system is not a flexible system and liable to frequent breakdown of machines and more
absenteeism. The standby machines and operators should be made available to avoid
bottleneck processes every time. Further, this system needs an adequate quantity of similar
styles of garments for continuous operation of the line.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Operators perform the same operation on a The progressive bundle system is driven
continuing basis, which allows them to increase by cost efficiency for individual
their speed and productivity operations.
Large quantities of work in process are
often characteristic of this type of
production system. This may lead to
longer throughput time, poor quality
concealed by bundles, large inventory,
The success of a bundle system may depend on extra handling, and difficulty in
how the system is set up and used in a plant. controlling inventory
This system may allow better utilization of
specialized machines, as output from one special Slow processing, absenteeism, and
purpose automated machine may be able to equipment failure may also cause major
supply several operators for the next operation. bottlenecks within the system
Training easy Not flexible for fashion garments
Operators who are compensated by piece
rates become extremely efficient at one
operation and may not be willing to learn
a new operation because it reduces their
efficiency and earnings. Individual
Small bundles allow faster throughput unless operators that work in a progressive
there are bottlenecks and extensive waiting bundle system are independent of other
between operations. operators and the final product.
2.6 Unit production system (UPS) one piece at a time
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Average Efficiency Can not function in 2 ways activities
Easy to control work in progress Strong IE for planning
Easy for parts evacuation and no hesitation Enforce Supervisors discipline
Absenteeism & labour turnover has
Less handling, no numbering major impact
Easy to visualize Line Balancing problem Individual Incentive
Feeding one unit at a time less costly than traditional Excessive losses due to Lack of Trims
line system delays
Require more helpers for bypassing
pieces wherever there 2 operators
First unit turnover is within 30 minutes performing same operation.
Less labour in cutting due to bundling and numbering.
Unit production system (UPS) for garments production:
Unit production system or UPS is a response to competitive pressure because of consumer demands and
increasing global competition. This system requires an automated overhead transporter system to move
individual units from one operation to another instead of human handling of materials in the bundle system.
Though this production system has been in use for several years, major progress was made when computers
were utilized for production planning, production controlling and regulating the work flow in the production
line.
2.6.1 Quick response – WIP available on demand.
It is mainly concerned with a single garment and not bundles.
As per the predetermined sequence of processes, the cut garment pieces are transported
automatically from one work station to another.
The work stations are so constructed such that the cut components are accessible as near as possible
to the operator to reduce the time taken for taking the component and positions the same for
sewing.
The operational principles of a unit production system (UPS) are as follows:
All the cut panels for one garment are loaded into a carrier at a workstation specially designed for
this specific job. The carrier is divided into several sections, each having a quick-release clamplike
system to avoid falling out of cut panels during transportation through the system.
When a particular batch of cut panels of the garments has been fixed into carriers, they are fed past
an electronic device. This device counts and records the number of the carrier and addresses it to its
first destination.
The loaded carriers are then moved onto the main powered line, which is circulated between the
rows of machines continually. Each workstation is connected to the mainline by means of junctions,
which open automatically if the work on a particular carrier is addressed to that particular work
station.
The carrier is moving toward the left side of the operator and waits along with the other carriers in
the work station. When the operator has completed the particular work on one carrier, he or she has
to press a push button, which is positioned at the side of the sewing machine, to activate a
mechanism that transports the carrier back to the main line so that another carrier will be fed
automatically to take its place.
A data collection system records when the carrier left the station and then it is addressed to its next
destination.
ADVANTAGES DISADVANTAGES
Average Efficiency Excessive operators training
Skilled Supervisor and sewing
Better Labour time Utilization operators
Bundle turnover is faster Strong IE
Quality systems have to be
Less handling, no bundles adequate
Ratio sewing machine much
Skilled Operators higher
Group Incentive system Pressure on Management
Excessive losses due to Lack of
High Quality expectation Trims delays
Absenteeism & labour turnover
No Line Balancing problem has major impact
No numbering and no matching Require flexible cutting Room
Strong planning to coordinate
Feeding time is lower than traditional others activities prior to sewing
Less efficient on volume quantity
Engineered Process compare to skill center
Direct labour ratio much higher Conditional to Union rules
2.6.2 Toyota and Kanban(Lean)
Modular production system for apparel manufacturing:
The modular system of production is basically obtained from the Japanese auto manufacturing and is
regarded as one way to meet the flexibility in demands required in the apparel industry. The modular system,
although dates back to the 1980s, is one of the newest production systems in the apparel industry. This
system is also called a team or cellular system. Pressure from increased market segmentation and the need
for shortened production development cycles and greater operating flexibility, plus intense competition in
standardized product lines from low-wage countries, have forced apparel manufacturers to experiment with
this new production system. Modules use a cross-training technique, which requires multi skilled workers and
a small set of machines to produce a finished garment. The key principle here is operator/worker
involvement and team work, which requires important changes in the industry’s human resource (HR)
department. In this system the workers are responsible for quality. The main features of the modular system
are groups of workers with multiple skills in one module, group piece rate or hourly rate compensation, U-
shaped module, and single piece hand offs; this system is called Group Technology or cellular manufacturing.
Less material handling drastically reduces inventory levels and throughput time, which saves the cost of
inventory and material handling.
Lean is defined as A systematic approach to identifying and eliminating waste (non-value-added activities)
through continuous improvement by flowing the product at the pull of the customer in pursuit of
perfection
Features of a modular production system:
Unconstrained to work with the operators.
In one workstation, the workers/operators should be able to perform the operations in different
sewing machines in a highly skilled manner.
In this modular production system, in-line inspection locations are constructed into the production
line so that the inspector could be able to return the defective garment panel to the concerned
operator through the system.
Productivity is high in this production system since the operator handles the garment only once for
several operations, instead of handling it for every operation.
Only a few garments will be processed in the particular production line as the throughput time is less
in this system.
A modular production system module could have up to eight work stations positioned around the
transport system.
Advantages of a modular garment production system:
1. High flexibility
2. Fast throughput times
3. Low wastages
4. Reduced absenteeism
5. Reduced repetitive motion eliments
6. Operator ownership of the production process is high
7. Empowered employees
8. Improved quality of product
Disadvantages of a modular garments production system:
A high capital investment in equipment
High investment in initial training
High cost incurred in continued training
Evaluation of garments production systems:
The evaluation of garment production systems can be done by taking into consideration four primary factors
such as
1. Processing time: It is the total working time of all the processes involved in assembling a garment.
2. Transportation time: It is the total time consumed for movement of semi finished or finished
garments from one workstation or department to another.
3. Waiting time of unfinished garments: It is the idle time of a work bundle when it waits for the next
operation.
4. Inspection time: It is time taken for in-process inspection of semi finished garments or final
inspection of finished garments before packing.
one garment at a small set of
small opeartions
time but material garments in an
proccess with simiar SMV.
handling assigned area with
Straight line
mechanised. team effort
throughput time excellent V good v good
WIP very low better low
Team work good high yes
predictions yes yes yes
skill low medium high
bottlenecks high moderate high
Quality low high high
Space high high low
efficiecny average average average
flexibility low high yes
supervision high low low
satisfaction low high high
IE low high high
cost low moderate/high moderate
.
3 Hybrid systems
Combination of lean and BPS for large volumes with high SMVs
Components on BPS
Assembly on lean which pulls garments
At present customers are expecting
1. Low volume products
2. High quality and
3. Customed products
These have short life cycle, development time and lead time. Customers want to treated as
individuals. Agile production is required (quick and correct)
4 Agile manufacturing
Is an approach to manufacturing which is focused on
meeting the needs of customers
while maintaining high standards of quality and
controlling the overall costs involved in the production of a particular product.
Software system development life cycle(SDLC)
Identify Requirement ; Born or Created
System analysis
Design Fashion software
Computer coding
Testing in market
Deployment of system
Value and principles in agile manifesto
Interaction of individuals on tools and processes
Collabouration with potential customers in the negotiation of project results
Respond to change with a plan
include respect, collaboration, improvement and learning cycles, pride in ownership, focus on
delivering value, and the ability to adapt to change
conclusion
The choice of best apparel production system will depend on the product and policies of the
company and on the capacities of manpower. The main goal of all the production systems is to decrease the
total production time which leads to reduction in inventory cost. The appropriate selection of a suitable
garment production system for an industry is influenced by the product style and policies of the industry and
on the labour capacity. The cost of inventory decides the choice of a production system in most
circumstances in an apparel industry. When material, labour, space and interest costs are high, a
synchronized subassembly system, which gives the minimum possible in-process inventory, is more suitable
Self-assignment
Select a product running in your factory. Identify the production system, Examine advantages and
disadvantages.
- Is the system suitable for your product and objectives are achieved?
- If not, what changes you suggest?