CHAPTER 2

SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT USED IN PATTERN DRAFTING

Desired Learning Outcomes

1. Enumerate the sewing tools and materials used in drafting;

2. Identify the upper and lower parts of the sewing machine;
3. Perform the threading of a sewing machine;
4. Operate the sewing machine.

LESSON 1: MARKING TOOLS USED IN PATTERN DRAFTING

Marking tools are used to transfer the pattern symbols onto the fabric. It is
essential to transfer these symbols for correct fitting and sewing. Below are
some tools used to transfer the pattern markings onto the fabric.

1. Tracing wheel is available in a serrated or smooth edge. The serrated edge

is used to make a dotted link marking in most fabrics. The smooth edge
makes a solid line marking and is used for delicate fabrics such as silk and
chiffon.

2. Dressmaker’s carbon/tracing paper is used to transfer the tracing wheel’s

line to the wrong side of the fabric. Select a color close to your fabric which
is visible enough to see.

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3. Tailor’s chalk can be used to mark directly onto the fabric. It does not need
sharpening like a chalk pencil. Great for dark, heavy fabrics where a
traditional water soluble marking pen may not appear.

4. Chalk pencil is filled with chalk at one end of the pencil and a brush at the
other end to remove chalk marks.

5. Liquid marking pens are used to mark tucks, darts, pleats and pockets. One
type disappears after about 48 hours. Another type washes off with water

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LESSON 2: PATTERN SYMBOLS

Sewing will be easier if you know how to read patterns. Pay attention to every
symbol. Immediately transfer the symbols to the fabric after cutting. This way
you won't forget this step. It's not fun to look for these symbols after removing
the pattern.

Pattern Symbols or Construction Markings

These guides help the sewer put together and sew the pieces of garment easily.
Several markings are evident in some patterns but others have only few,
depending on the design and style of their project.

1. Straight Grain or Direction

The selvage is the finished edge of fabric. It usually has a different color or
texture.

Sometimes it also has little holes.

Every woven fabric is made of crosswise (from selvage to

selvage) and lengthwise threads. They are called the grain
threads. The grain is the direction that tells where they're
going.

In patterns, this arrow must be in the same direction as the length and parallel to
the selvage. This will make the fabric prevent from falling and be more resistant
to movement. If you place it parallel to the crosswise grain, the fabric will hang
after it is sewn.

When fabric yarns do not cross at exact right angles, the cloth is off-grain. But if
the lengthwise and crosswise yarns cross each other at exact right angle, the
fabric is grain- perfect.

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Pleat

This little symbol marks the beginning and ending of a pleat.

The arrow indicates which way to fold. In this example, you
would pleat from left to right. It is usually indicated by an
alternating solid and broken line.

Notches

These help you match pattern pieces.

In sewing garment pieces, the front and back notches should be aligned.
Notches will help the sewer perfectly match the pieces easily.

You can find one triangle or more. Some patterns include numbers beside the
notch to help you. These are the V-shaped symbols or triangles along the cutting
line.

Fold

Fold the fabric and place the pattern's edge on the fold. When
you cut the pattern only, never cut the folded edge.

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Dots

They are used to mark important parts of the patterns such as

dart points or pocket placement (see the image above). Their
meaning varies depending on the pattern.

Slash

Lengthen or shorten here. This is the part of the pattern where

you can safely adjust the length. Avoid doing this before or
after because the pattern's shape could change.

Cutting Lines

These vary depending on the pattern company but they're usually

marked with a dark line and scissors symbol or dotted line.

Buttonholes

Mark where to make the buttonholes. They are indicated by

a solid line having a short line at right angles to one end.

Buttons

This is where to sew the buttons

Stitching Lines

Not all pattern pieces include stitching lines. If they are included then there is a
broken line, indicating the areas that will be stitched together. These are a guide
so you can see where the line of stitching intersects and where you will not be

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stitching. It is not recommended that you mark every stitching line on to your
garment. This would result to excess handling of your fabric.

Fold Line

This line indicates that the edge of the pattern piece must be placed on a fold of
fabric. The edge of the pattern piece is usually indicated as a broken line, to
remind you not to cut on that edge. If you cut this edge, there is no seam
allowance and trying to join these will change the way the pattern fits, as well as
how other pieces will join to this piece.

Centerfold

This indicates that the edge of the pattern must be placed on the folded part of
the fabric. This is when cutting two sides of the garment parts as left and right
or back and front parts.

LESSON 3: UPPER PART OF SEWING MACHINE

The Upper Parts is composed of:

1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand.

2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the
needle.
3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is
mounted, and the shuttle and lower thread are placed.

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool Pin is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position.
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3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin
thread.
4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot.
5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread.
11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts

Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed

1. Feed Dog
moves the fabric
while sewing.
2. Throat plate is
the windows of
the feed dog and it
is where the
bobbin threads
come out.
4. Slide plate is a
movable plate that
covers the shuttle
and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle holds
the bobbin case
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while sewing.
5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin.

LESSON 4: LOWER PART OF SEWING MACHINE

The Lower Parts of the Lock Stitch Sewing Machine

The lower parts of the sewing machine are the cabinet and the stand. The
cabinet has drawers and screw on the hinges for the attachment of the head.

The following are the lower parts of the sewing machine and their uses:

1. Band Wheel leads the balance wheel through the belt connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle is where the feet are stationed to drive the band wheel through
the pitman rod.
8. Legs support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet holds the head of the machine by interlocking screw on the
hinges.

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REFERENCES:

 [Link]
 [Link]
ailoring_learning_modules.pdf