Class Notes: Computer Disassembly & Technical Tooling
Date: February 3, 2026
Subject: IT Hardware Maintenance
Topic: Safe Disassembly Procedures and Toolkit Essentials
I. The Technician’s Toolkit
Before opening a computer, you must have the right tools for the job. Using the wrong tool can
strip screws or damage sensitive circuits.
1. Hand Tools
Phillips Head Screwdriver: The most common tool for PC building (usually size #2). Used
for case panels and mounting screws.
Torx Driver: Star-shaped head. Often found in brand-name systems (like HP or Dell) and
laptops to prevent tampering.
Extraction Tool: A small pronged tool used to grab dropped screws or pull jumpers/chips
from tight spots.
Crimpers: Used to attach connectors (like RJ-45) to the end of network cables.
Cable Tester: A device used to verify that a cable is wired correctly and can transmit a
signal.
2. Cleaning & Protection
Compressed Air: Used to blow dust out of fans and heat sinks. Tip: Hold the can upright
to avoid spraying liquid propellant.
Antistatic Wrist Strap: Clips to the metal chassis of the case to equalize the electrical
charge between you and the PC.
Antistatic Mat: A surface that prevents Static Electricity ($ESD$) from building up while
you work on individual parts like the motherboard.
II. Understanding Static Electricity ($ESD$)
Electrostatic Discharge ($ESD$) is the "silent killer" of electronics. You might not even feel the
shock, but a tiny spark can fry a CPU or RAM module instantly. Always use your wrist strap!
III. Step-by-Step Disassembly (Phase 1)
Follow these steps in order to ensure both your safety and the safety of the hardware.
Step 1: Power Down and Drain
Action: Shut down the OS, flip the switch on the back of the PSU (Power Supply Unit),
and unplug the power cable.
The "Secret" Step: After unplugging, press and hold the PC's power button for 5
seconds. This drains any "ghost" electricity left in the capacitors.
Step 2: External Disconnection
Remove all peripheral cables: Monitor (HDMI/DisplayPort), Keyboard, Mouse, and
Ethernet.
Step 3: Opening the Case
Lay the PC on its side on your antistatic mat.
Remove the side panel screws (usually Phillips head) and slide the panel off.
Step 4: Grounding Yourself
Put on your Antistatic Wrist Strap and clip the end to a bare metal part of the computer
frame.
Step 5: Disconnect the Power Supply (PSU)
Unplug the large 24-pin ATX power connector from the motherboard.
Unplug the 4/8-pin CPU power cable (usually located near the top left of the CPU).
Disconnect power cables from the Hard Drives and GPU.
Step 6: Remove the RAM (Memory)
Locate the RAM slots.
Push down on the plastic tabs (ejectors) at both ends of the slot. The RAM stick will
"pop" up.
Handling Tip: Hold RAM only by the side edges. Never touch the gold contact pins, as
skin oils can cause corrosion.
[Image showing the process of pushing down RAM slot tabs to remove a memory module]
IV. Summary Checklist
1. Safety First: Power off, unplug, and drain.
2. Protection: Strap on the antistatic gear.
3. Documentation: Keep track of your screws! Using a magnetic tray or labeled cups is
highly recommended.
Teacher’s Note: Slow down! Most hardware damage happens because a student tries to pull a
component out before realizing there is still one tiny screw or cable holding it in place.
lass Notes: Case Preparation and Power Supply Installation
Date: February 3, 2026
Subject: IT Hardware Assembly
Topic: Opening the Case & PSU Installation
I. Opening the Computer Case
Opening the case (or "chassis") is the first physical step in assembly. While it seems simple,
doing it incorrectly can scratch the finish or damage side-panel glass.
1. Preparation
Clear the Workspace: Ensure your desk is clean and you have your Antistatic Mat laid
out.
Identify the Fasteners: Most modern cases use thumbscrews (which can be turned by
hand) or Phillips head screws.
2. Removal Procedure
Orientation: Lay the case flat on its side (usually the right side, so the motherboard tray
is facing up).
The "Side Panel" Rule: If your case has a tempered glass panel, handle it with extreme
care. Glass panels should always be placed on a soft surface (like a towel or the case
box), never directly on a hard tile floor, which can cause them to shatter.
Storage: Place all screws in a magnetic tray or labeled bin immediately.
II. The Power Supply Unit (PSU) Installation
The PSU is the heart of the system, converting AC power from the wall into the DC power your
components need.
1. Pre-Installation Check
Wattage Check: Ensure the PSU provides enough power for your components (e.g.,
650W, 750W).
Efficiency Rating: Look for the 80 Plus badge (Bronze, Silver, Gold, etc.), which indicates
how efficiently it uses electricity.
Modular vs. Non-Modular:
o Non-Modular: All cables are permanently attached.
o Modular: You only plug in the cables you actually need, which helps with airflow.
2. Orientation: The "Fan Up or Fan Down" Debate
Fan Down: If your case has a vent at the bottom with a dust filter, point the PSU fan
downward. This allows the PSU to pull in cool air from outside the case.
Fan Up: If your case sits on a thick carpet or has no bottom vent, point the fan upward
so it pulls air from inside the case.
III. Steps to Install and Connect
Step 1: Positioning
Slide the PSU into the mounting "basement" or bracket at the back of the case. Align the screw
holes on the PSU with the holes in the case chassis.
Step 2: Securing
Use the specific screws provided with the PSU (usually four 6-32 coarse-thread screws). Tighten
them in a "cross" pattern to ensure the unit is level and secure.
Step 3: Connecting Internal Power
Once the unit is bolted in, you must provide power to the motherboard.
The 24-Pin ATX Connector: This is the largest cable. It powers the motherboard itself. It
has a small plastic clip that must "click" into place.
The 4/8-Pin EPS/CPU Cable: Usually located at the top left of the motherboard. This
provides dedicated power to the processor.
IV. Safety & Troubleshooting
The "Click": Never force a connector. If it doesn't slide in easily, check the orientation. All
power connectors are keyed (shaped) so they only fit one way.
Cable Management: Use zip ties or Velcro straps to keep cables away from fans. Loose
cables hitting a spinning fan can cause noise or mechanical failure.
Teacher’s Note: Do not plug the PSU into the wall outlet until the entire build is finished and the
case is closed. Safety first!
Would you like me to create a "Cable Identification Guide" to help you tell the difference
between a PCIe (Graphics) cable and a CPU power cable?
Class Notes: Core Component Assembly
Date: February 3, 2026
Subject: IT Hardware Maintenance & Assembly
Topic: Installing the CPU, Motherboard, and RAM
I. Installing the CPU (The Brain)
The CPU is the most sensitive part of the computer. One bent pin can ruin the entire
motherboard or processor.
1. Preparation
Identify the Socket: Ensure your CPU matches the motherboard socket (e.g., Intel LGA
1700 or AMD AM5).
Zero Insertion Force (ZIF): You should never have to "push" the CPU in. It should drop
into place perfectly.
2. Installation Steps
Lift the Lever: Open the load plate by releasing the metal tension lever.
Alignment: Look for the Golden Triangle on one corner of the CPU. Match it with the
triangle marked on the motherboard socket.
Seating: Gently lower the CPU into the socket.
Secure: Close the load plate and lock the lever. (Note: On Intel boards, the plastic
protective cap will pop off automatically—keep this cap for warranty purposes!)
3. Thermal Paste & Cooling
Apply a pea-sized amount of thermal paste to the center of the CPU (if the cooler
doesn't have it pre-applied).
Mount the CPU Cooler/Heatsink on top and plug the fan cable into the CPU_FAN header.
II. Installing the Motherboard
The motherboard is the "spine" that connects all parts. It must be mounted correctly to prevent
electrical shorts.
1. The I/O Shield
Before putting the board in, snap the metal I/O shield into the rectangular slot at the
back of the case. Warning: The metal edges can be sharp!
2. Standoffs (The Most Important Step)
What they are: Small brass spacers that keep the motherboard from touching the metal
case.
The Risk: If you screw the motherboard directly to the case without standoffs, it will
short-circuit and likely die the moment you turn it on.
Action: Ensure the standoff positions match the holes in your specific motherboard size
(ATX, Micro-ATX, or ITX).
3. Securing the Board
Align the motherboard ports with the I/O shield.
Use Phillips head screws to secure the board to the standoffs. Do not over-tighten, as
motherboards can crack under pressure.
III. Installing the RAM (Random Access Memory)
RAM is "volatile" memory that the CPU uses for quick access to data.
1. Identifying the Slots (Dual Channel)
Most motherboards have 4 slots. To get the best performance, you usually need to use
slots 2 and 4 (counting away from the CPU). Check your manual!
2. Installation Steps
Open the Tabs: Push down the plastic clips at the ends of the RAM slots.
Check the Notch: RAM is "keyed." There is a small gap in the gold pins that must line up
with the bump in the slot. It only fits one way!
The "Click": Push down firmly on both ends of the RAM stick until the side tabs snap
back up automatically. You should hear a distinct click.
IV. Summary Checklist
Task Critical Warning
CPU Do not touch the pins! Match the triangles.
Motherboard ALWAYS use standoffs to prevent shorts.
RAM Ensure it "clicks" in; check the notch alignment.
Teacher’s Note: If something feels like it’s "sticking" or requires heavy force, stop. Re-align and
try again. Precision is better than power in PC building.
Would you like me to walk you through the final step: connecting the Front Panel headers
(power button, reset, and USB)?
Class Notes: Drive Installation and Adapter Cards
Date: February 3, 2026
Subject: IT Hardware Assembly & Configuration
Topic: Installing Storage, Optical Drives, and Expansion Cards
I. Installing Adapter Cards
Adapter cards (or expansion cards) add specific functionality to a computer. They are installed
into PCIe (Peripheral Component Interconnect Express) slots on the motherboard.
1. Common Types of Adapter Cards
Graphics Card (GPU): Most important for gaming or video editing. Usually installed in
the longest slot (x16) closest to the CPU.
Sound Card: Enhances audio quality beyond the motherboard's basic capabilities.
NIC (Network Interface Card): Adds wired or wireless connectivity if not built into the
motherboard.
Capture Card: Used to record video from external sources (like a game console).
2. Installation Steps
Remove the Slot Cover: Remove the small metal plate on the back of the case that
aligns with your chosen PCIe slot.
Open the Latch: Many PCIe x16 slots have a small plastic clip at the end. Push it down to
open it.
The "Seat": Align the card's gold contacts with the slot and press straight down firmly
until you hear a click.
Secure: Screw the card's metal bracket into the case chassis to prevent "GPU sag" or
accidental disconnection.
Supplementary Power: High-end GPUs require extra power from the PSU via 6-pin or 8-
pin cables.
II. Installing the Drives (Internal Storage)
Drives hold your operating system, files, and programs. Modern computers use SATA (Serial ATA)
connections for most 3.5" and 2.5" drives.
1. Hard Disk Drives (HDD) and SSDs
Form Factors: HDDs are typically 3.5-inch, while SATA SSDs are 2.5-inch.
Mounting: * Slide the drive into a dedicated "drive bay" or a removable plastic tray
(caddy).
o Secure it with coarse-thread screws (for HDDs) or fine-thread screws (for SSDs).
Connections: Every SATA drive needs two cables:
1. SATA Data Cable: Connects the drive to the motherboard.
2. SATA Power Cable: Connects the drive to the Power Supply.
2. Optical Drives (DVD/Blu-ray)
Placement: These are installed in the large 5.25-inch bays at the very front-top of the
case.
Procedure: * Remove the plastic front panel "slug" or cover from the case.
o Slide the drive in from the outside/front of the case until it is flush with the
panel.
o Secure it with screws on both sides.
o Connect the SATA data and power cables just like a hard drive.