Wisp

Designed by Kaewon
BOM
Assorted M3, M4, M5 socket head cap screws
M3x8 (1) ejector
M3x12 (5) handguard, mag
M3x55 (1) firing pin
M3 nut (1) firing pin
M4x6 (1) printed hammer (optional vs commercial metal hammer)
M4x12 (1) bolt
If using the included stock or brace:
M4x20 (1) stock or brace button
M4x30 (1) brace hook
M4x35 (2) stock or brace hinge
M5x30 (1) stock or brace mount
M4 nut (2) stock or (+1 more) brace
M5 nut (1) stock or brace mount
M4x6x6 heat insert for bolt

Optional for grip: M5 heat insert and M5x20

Compression Spring Stock Music-Wire Steel, 11" Long, 0.36" OD, 0.298" ID for mag and stock/brace
[Link]
[Link]

4mm x 15mm (2) compression spring for firing pin and ejector
AR lower parts or springs. Complete lower parts kit are $40. All parts have printed versions available
except for springs and fcg pins. Steel rods can be used as alternate fcg pins for printed fcg. I typically
use 4mm rods. Lower/complete AR spring kit is cheaper than complete lpk. I’ve seen Anderson, Strike
Industries lower spring kits aka whoops/oops kit for $4-8. Aero Precision field repair kit for $10.
22LR barrel liner. #1 (.228”) drill bit or 22 LR reamer to chamber. JB Weld or equivalent epoxy to
secure to barrel parts; original formula not the other kinds. Liner available at brownells, parts
dispensed, and dixiegunworks. Others probably have them too. These are 5/16” OD. Drill bits are
cheaper, $5, but reamers, $50+, will be a better quality chamber as it’s a smooth transition from
chamber to rifling. 22LR sporting will work with all ammo. Bentz or match will only work with certain
ammo
Optional barrels; 12mm tube, Ruger 10/22 barrel, or Rossi/Mossberg barrel clones:
RS22, RB22, Mossberg 702 barrels confirmed as clones
Mossberg 715P, 715T, 802, Magtech 7022, Citadel Trakr unconfirmed as clones
Rossi/Mossberg barrel: 4mm x 44mm rod (2) to attach to upper
Extractor: 2.5mm stainless steel
2mm x 12mm rod for extractor
AR bolt catch plunger and spring (printed plunger available) for extractor
Optional for metal ejector: 2.5mm stainless steel
Optional for reinforced bolt face: 16ga (1.5mm) stainless steel
M3x8 countersink screw
M3x4x5 heat insert
Optional for bolt handle detent: 4mm x 10mm spring
Optional for reinforced stock risers: 2mm x 40mm rod (2), 2mm x 60mm rod (2)
Optional for reinforced bolt handle: M3x40

Parts Kit (this is a 3rd party and not run by me)

Donations
[Link]
Print Settings
Temps, speed, fan etc is dependent on filament. You should be proficient at 3d printing and properly
calibrated before printing any gun.
Most parts are thin enough that they will print solid. Filament usage and weight is negligible so you
could just print everything solid. At minimum I'd recommend the load bearing parts be solid. That
pretty much just leaves the mag, grip and stock/brace that can be 2-3mm wall/top/bottom thickness (5-7
walls) 15-25% infill.
Orientation
These are just suggestions and you can print them in other orientations if you want but if you do stray
from this, you should understand how orientation affects strength. You will need to add manual
supports for the upper in this orientation.
I have printed the upper vertical and it surprisingly didn’t break on the layer lines but you will want to
be very confident in your layer adhesion.
The barrel liner parts can be lowered under the build plate to get any barrel length you want. Use
multiple sections if needed. Example: The barrel extension is 1.75” (44.55mm to be exact) and the
build pics are a 5.5” liner so the threaded barrel part is 3.75” long. 3.75 + 1.75 = 5.5
Assembly
Before doing any assembly, you may want to sand the outside of the bolt and inside the bolt channel on
the upper so it will cycle nice and smooth. Add lube later.
Bolt
There are 2 different bolts; fully printed or reinforced bolt face. Subs have had bulging on the rear of
spent casings on some softer filaments so it is highly recommended that you use the reinforced bolt
face. Reinforced bolt uses 16ga (1.5mm) stainless steel plate cut/drilled to shape. Heat the insert into
the bolt and counstersink the rim and plate so the screw will not protrude. Put on the plate and rim with
M3x8 countersink screw and loctite it. File an angle on the bottom of the reinforcement plate or it will
hit the feed ramp.

HEADSPACE NEEDS TO BE CORRECT. For 22LR this is 1.09mm to 1.3mm. The bolt rim is sized at
1.09mm but may differ based on your printed layer height. If it’s too much, the bolt handle will not be
able to turn to lock. The extractor will also hit it and not work.

Alternate bolt lengths are used to adjust headspace in 0.1mm increments. To measure headspace,
remove the bolt rim and insert and lock the bolt in the receiver. Use a cleaning rod to push the bolt back
and measure the distance from the bolt to the barrel. *This assumes the barrel is flush to the adapter (or
liner to the barrel extension).

Extractor: You could print the extractor but you could have a difficult time to make it work. Do not drill
out the pin hole all the way on the bolt. It is tapered on the bottom so the pin doesn’t fall out. Insert the
AR bolt catch spring, plunger, then extractor. Insert the 2mm pin from the top. Check to make sure the
extractor can hold a round. The extractor hook may need too be shortened.
Firing Pin: Drill out the firing pin hole so it’s smooth to prevent hangups. 1/8” or 3mm drill bit.
File/dremel the M3x55 end to a cone shape with a flat top. Do not make it too pointy or it can pierce
the primer. Some people have left the screw as is and have not had issues. Put the 4x15mm spring on
the firing pin and thread the firing pin through the M3 nut in the middle of the bolt til the firing pin is
flush with the bolt face or slightly recessed into the bolt when in the back position. Loctite the nut.

Heat the M4 heat insert into the back of the bolt center hole. You may need to file down the back of the
bolt to make it flat again. You should be able to put in the firing pin after putting in the heat insert but it
is recommended to put the firing pin in before. Screw on the bolt handle knob onto the bolt handle.
Make sure this can rotate freely on the bolt handle cap. Connect the handle onto the bolt with M4x12.
Loctite the screw.
*Optional bolt handle detent: Insert the 4x10 spring and detent before connecting the handle.
*Optional reinforced bolt handle: screw in the M3x40 before putting on the knob.
Lower Receiver
The lower goes together like a standard AR lower minus a few parts. There’s tons of videos of AR
assembly so you can skip this section if you want.
If using the printed fcg, the M4x6 screw is JB Welded into the hammer. The studs do not need to be
glued on. There are alternate versions of the safety selector and detent if they don’t turn well. You can
also try cutting the selector spring shorter. AR fcg pins are 3.91mm so if using 4mm rods, you’ll need
to drill out the holes on the lower, trigger, hammer and studs.
Ensure the fcg pins will fit in your lower and drill if needed. Attach the trigger and hammer springs.
Trigger disconnect is not needed since this is a bolt action. Insert the trigger into the lower and insert
the trigger pin. Insert the hammer and hammer pin.

The grip hole needs to be drilled bigger if using the standard AR grip screw or it will crack. I suggest
M5 heat insert and M5x20. Insert the safety selector. You may need to cock the hammer to be able to
insert it. Insert the selector detent and spring. If you are using a lower with takedown detents then you
will need to insert them and the takedown pins. Attach the grip and screw it on.
Insert the mag catch spring into the lower and the mag catch button. You need to push the button in and
screw on the mag catch from the other side. Screw it in til the mag catch is flush to the texture of the
mag button.
Barrel
Barrel Liner: The barrel liner will need to be chambered. Put a piece of tape on the drill bit to mark a
depth of 19.69mm. Reamer will already have a notch for depth. Go slow and drill the liner. Add a small
chamfer with a 5/16 or larger drill bit on both ends of the liner. If you don’t chamfer then the round will
catch when you try to chamber it. Then file a notch for the extractor.

The barrel parts needs to be JB Welded to the barrel liner. If using threaded barrel parts, make sure
there is plenty of JB Weld under the threads. Roughing the surface of the liner with 150 grit or rougher
before JB Welding can also help.

Upper Receiver
Ejector: Insert the ejector spring in the hole inside the upper. Insert the ejector into the slot and screw
on the M3x8. Check to make sure it moves freely. It will stop when it is angled about 10° so the spring
doesn’t come out. If you are using the reinforced bolt or metal ejector, you will want to smooth any
sharp edges where they contact each other to prevent wear.
Barrel liner: Insert the assembled barrel into the upper and thread on the handguard. Secure with
M3x12 on the top.
RS22 barrel: Put the barrel adapter on the barrel and line up the pin slots. Insert this into the upper and
insert the 4mm rods. Thread on the handguard and secure with M3x12 on the top.
Insert the bolt and make sure it can lock. Also cycle it and make sure the ejector is not catching on the
reinforcement plate on the bolt. You can also check function of the extractor and ejector.

Stock/Brace
Cut the spring to 1” and insert into the button and put this into the hinge. Make sure it can be pushed
down so the top of the button is flush to the hinge and that it moves freely. Screw in the M4x20 to keep
it in. Insert the hinge into the mount and brace/stock. Screw in the 2 M4x35 and nuts.
Brace: Connect the hook with M4x30 and M4 nut.
Stock: Connect buttpad to riser and cheek pad to riser. Insert the wheels and risers. Rotate the wheels to
screw in the risers. *Reinforced versions simply slide in the 2mm rods. If they wiggle then add a little
glue. They are held in with the pads. Holes can be drilled out for bigger rods, all thread, or screws.
Slide the assembled stock/brace onto the lower receiver rear rail then secure with M5x30 and nut.
Final Assembly
Connect the upper and lower with the pivot and takedown pins.
Magazine
There are 2 different kinds; regular AR sized mags from M4gery or slim mags (same as previously
designed for hd/ez). The slim mags have 2 subvariants (separate top or bottom) to choose depending on
what you prefer.
Spring length
25 round - 8"
15 round - 5"
10 round - 4.5"
Separate top: Cut spring to length and attach to follower. Insert into body and secure the top with 4
M3x12.
Separate baseplate: Cut spring to length and attach follower and baseplate retainer. Insert into body and
slide on the baseplate.
*It is difficult to load the last few rounds so you may not want to fully load them.

© 2024 kaewon
Wisp is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA