MANICURE

Theory Module

by

Leigh-Ann Lorraine Van Wyk

 TABLE OF CONTENTS
1.1 Manicure Definition 1
1.2 Benefits of a Manicure 1
1.3 Contraindications 1
1.3.1 Definition of Contraindication 1
1.3.2 The Types of Contraindications 1
1.3.3 Local Contraindications 2
1.3.4 Medical Contraindications 2
1.3.5 Total Contraindications 2
1.4 Nails Shapes 2
2.1 The Nail Structure 3
2.1.1 Nail Matrix 3
2.1.2 Root of the nail 3
2.1.3 Proximal Nail Fold 3
2.1.4 Cuticle / Eponychium 3
2.1.5 Nail Plate / Body of the Nail 3
2.1.6 Nail Bed 4
2.1.7 Free Edge 4
3.1 Nail Disorders and Diseases 5
3.1.1 Nail discoloration 5
3.1.2 Bacterial paronychia 5
3.1.3 Chronic paronychia 5
3.1.4 Traumatic changes to the nail 6
3.1.5 Elevation of the Nail Plate (onycholysis) 6
3.1.6 Ingrown nails 6
3.1.7 Nail thickening 7
3.1.8 Nail ridges 7
3.1.9 Nail splitting 7
3.2 Nail deformities 8
3.2.1 Nail changes in systemic disease 8
4.1 Manicure Products 9
4.1.1 Hand and Nail Sanitiser 9
4.1.2 Acetone 9
4.1.3 Cuticle Softener 9
4.1.4 Exfoliator 9
4.1.5 Anti-Bacterial Liquid Soap 9
4.1.6 Hand Massage Cream 10
4.1.7 Hand and Arm Mask 10
4.1.8 Base Coat 10
4.1.9 Nail Polish 10
4.1.10 Top Coat 10
4.1.11 Cuticle Oil/ Cuticle Cream 10
4.1.12 Quick dry 10
5.1 Manicure Equipment 11
5.1.1 Nail Clipper 11
5.1.2 Nail File 11
5.1.3 Nail File Number Meaning 11
5.1.4 Nail Buffer 12
5.1.5 Cuticle Pusher 12
5.1.6 Cuticle Nipper 12
5.1.7 Manicure Dusting Brush 13
5.1.8 Nail Brush 13
5.1.9 Manicure Bowl 13
5.1.10 Mask Brush 13
5.2 Manicure Practical 14
 [Link] Definition
A manicure is a cosmetic treatment of the hands involving shaping and often painting
of the nails, removal of the cuticles and softening of the skin.
Manicure comes from the Latin word manus meaning hands and cura meaning care.
Manicure is the care of the hands.

1.2 Benefits of a Manicure

 Increase in the blood circulation
The hand massage relaxes the muscles and improves the blood circulation and
enhances the mobility of the joints.

 Keeps hands smooth and delicate

Exfoliating the dead skin cells on your hands. It energises new cell development,
leaving your nails more supple.

 De-stress
Unwinding the client while enhancing the look and feel of the hands.

 Contagious Infections
An expert manicurist has the capacity to recognise a parasitic contamination even in
it’s initial stages when it is most effectively treated.

1.3 Contraindications

1.3.1 Definition of Contraindication

A contraindication is a sign that someone should not continue with a treatment as it

might be harmful.

1.3.2 The Types of Contraindications

 Local Contraindications: treatments cannot be performed over contraindicated

areas.
 Medical Contraindications: please seek medical advice prior to booking.
 Total Contraindications: prohibits a treatment from taking place.

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1.3.3 Local Contraindications
 Skin conditions (eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis)
 Cuts / abrasions
 Bruising / swelling

1.3.4 Medical Contraindications

 Undiagnosed lumps and swellings

1.3.5 Total Contraindications

 Infectious skin diseases (impetigo, chicken pox, mumps)
 Broken bones
 Ringworm
 Fungal nail infections

1.4 Nails Shapes

During a manicure, the nails are shaped using a nail file.

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2.1 The Nail Structure

2.1.1 Nail Matrix

The nail matrix is the area where your fingernails and toenails start to grow.
The function of the matrix is to create new skin cells. Injuries to the nail bed or
disorders that affect the matrix can affect your nail growth.

2.1.2 Root of the nail

The root of the nail is also known as the germinal matrix. Its edge appears as a white
crescent, known as the lunula. The root portion of this nail lies below the skin,
underneath the nail. It's function is to produce most of the volume of the nail and
the nail bed.

2.1.3 Proximal Nail Fold

The skin folded over the part of the nail plate attached to the finger. Its function is to
protect the area between the nail and epidermis from exposure to bacteria.

2.1.4 Cuticle / Eponychium

The cuticle is a layer of clear skin located along the bottom edge of your finger or toe.
The function of the cuticle is to protect new nails from bacteria when they grow out
from the nail root.

2.1.5 Nail Plate / Body of the Nail

The nail plate is the exposed part of the nail which is adherent to the underlying skin.
The function of the nail plate is to protect the nail bed.

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2.1.6 Nail Bed
The nail bed is the skin beneath the nail plate. It is made of two types of tissues: the
deeper dermis, the living tissue which includes capillaries and glands, and the
epidermis, the layer just beneath the nail plate.

2.1.7 Free Edge

The nail plate leaves the end of the finger and forms a projection that is called the free
edge. This is attached to the nail bed and appears white. The function of the free
edge is to protect the fingertip.

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3.1 Nail Disorders and Diseases

3.1.1 Nail discoloration

The normal nail is pale pink in colour. Nails can become discoloured because of:

 Smoking tobacco
 The use of dyes such as those used for hair
 Certain medications including some chemotherapy drugs
 Infections of the nail bed
 Injury to the nail bed
 Subungual melanomas (brown/black discolouration of the nail bed)
 Silver toxicity, quinacrine toxicity and Wilson’s disease – the nails become
bluish
 Several systemic illnesses including liver disease – the nails become white

3.1.2 Bacterial paronychia

This is a condition caused by bacterial infection of the nail fold. It is more common in
those who always have their hands in contact with moisture, someone that bites their
nails, incorrect manicures, and small injuries of the fingers.

3.1.3 Chronic paronychia

The nail fold is thickened, tender and mildly reddened. Chronic paronychia is caused
by a mixture of yeasts (candida, herpes simplex and bacteria staphylococcus
aureus). It is most common in people who often have their hands in water,
detergents, or chemicals, have poor circulation (cold hands and feet) or diabetes.

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3.1.4 Traumatic changes to the nail

The nail may become injured, leading to:

 Lifting of the nail by a subungual hematoma

 Loss of the nail plate if the injury is too severe
 Ridging of the nail or nail deformities if the nail matrix is traumatised

3.1.5 Elevation of the Nail Plate (onycholysis)

The nail can be lifted off the underlying nail plate by infection or trauma and appears
yellowish or white. This includes:

 Picking under the fingernails

 Pus formation under the nail plate
 Some fungal infections
 Psoriasis
 Certain systemic conditions such as thyroid disorders, anaemia, or some
autoimmune diseases

3.1.6 Ingrown nails

This condition is characterised by nails growing into the skin at the sides of the nail.
This causes pain and may predispose to infection. It is more common if the nail
curves inwards too sharply, or if the nails are not trimmed correctly. Trauma or tight
footwear may also cause this condition.

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3.1.7 Nail thickening

Thickening of the toenails is a normal age-related change, but abnormal thickening is

also possible. This includes:

 Injury
 Fungal infection
 Arthritis
 Tight shoes
 Psoriasis

3.1.8 Nail ridges

Longitudinal ridges running down the nail may occur in several systemic conditions,
such as:

 Severe anaemia or malnutrition

 Ageing
 Trauma
 Illness
 Eczema
 Rheumatoid arthritis

3.1.9 Nail splitting

The nail may flake into layers as it grows, due to:

 Constant application and removal of nail polish

 Hands in constant exposure to water
 Overuse of the fingernails

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3.2 Nail deformities

The nail may be deformed if it is subject to trauma or fungal infection. The nail bed
injury forces the nail to grow in an abnormal way.

3.2.1 Nail changes in systemic disease

Allergic or autoimmune conditions may present with nail changes such as pitting in
psoriasis. The koilonychia (spoon-shaped concave nails) of iron-deficiency anaemia.
Beau’s lines are horizonal depressions that occur following severe illness,
malnutrition, chemotherapy, or nail injury. Clubbing may occur in lung disease.

Pitting Koilonychia Beau’s Lines

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4.1 Manicure Products

4.1.1 Hand and Nail Sanitiser

Hand and nail sanitiser are designed to clean hands, nails, nail files and equipment.
Contains propyl alcohol which prevents cross contamination. The spray will reduce
the risk of cross contamination and maintain a healthy working environment.

4.1.2 Acetone
It is a colourless, volatile, flammable liquid with a characteristic odour. It is used to
remove nail polish from the nail plate.

4.1.3 Cuticle Softener

Effectively softens cuticles and hard skin build-up around the nail fold and under the
free edge of the nail. It contains urea to naturally soften cuticles without stripping the
surrounding skin of essential moisture.

4.1.4 Exfoliator
Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin
using a chemical, granular substance, or exfoliation tool. Your skin naturally sheds
dead skin cells to make room for new cells every 28 days.

 Benefits of Exfoliation
- helps other skincare products penetrate deeper
- evens skin tone
- boosts circulation and lymphatic drainage
- increases cell turnover
- stimulates collagen synthesis

4.1.5 Anti-Bacterial Liquid Soap

Antibacterial liquid soap contains ingredients that assists in killing bacteria.

This assists in reducing cross contamination.

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4.1.6 Hand Massage Cream
Is a light and non-greasy formula to condition and soften your hands. It also provides
the slip during hand and arm massage.

4.1.7 Hand and Arm Mask

The mask sits on your skin, infusing and trapping in moisture and nutrients. You apply the
mask onto your client’s hands and leave it on for (7- 10 min).

4.1.8 Base Coat

Base coat is the first coat that is applied to your nail plate. A base coat also creates a barrier
that helps protect your nails from the effects of nail polish. It prevents staining and peeling,
and it will give your polished nails a more even texture. Base coats come in plain and ridge-
filler varieties.

4.1.9 Nail Polish

Nail polish is a lacquer that can be applied to the fingernails or toenails to decorate and
protect the nail plates.

4.1.10 Top Coat

The top coat acts as a sealer to the coloured polish. When the polish is sealed, it does not
chip as often. In top coat nail polishes, the ingredient nitrocellulose is used to create a high
shine, glossy appearance.

4.1.11 Cuticle Oil/ Cuticle Cream

Cuticle oil and cuticle cream is used to moisturise the cuticle, skin, and nail area. It
can protect the cuticle and nail against damage and improve the health and
appearance of the cuticles and nails.

4.1.12 Quick dry

Quick dry over top coat of manicure/pedicure for fast drying time and to protect from
nicks and smudges. Quick dry comes in the form of drops, spray, polish and oil.

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5.1 Manicure Equipment

5.1.1 Nail Clipper

A nail clipper is a tool used to trim the free edge of the nail.

5.1.2 Nail File

A nail file is a tool used to gently grind down and shape the edges of nails. They are
used in manicures and pedicures after the nail has been trimmed using nail clippers.

5.1.3 Nail File Number Meaning

The numbers refer to how coarse the grit is on the nail file surface. If both numbers
are the same, then both sides have the same grit- if the two numbers are different
then both sides have different grit.

 The higher the number, the softer the file grit

 The lower the number, the coarser the file grit

 Nail File Grit

100 grit – used to shorten and shape the side walls and free edge.
180 grit – used to contour the whole nail; to prep natural nail before applying any
product and to shape natural free edge. This grit is used to remove the rough edges
of the free edge after you have used the 100 grit to shorten the length of the nail.

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5.1.4 Nail Buffer

The numbers refer to how coarse the grit is on the nail file surface. If both numbers
are the same, then both sides have the same grit- if the two numbers are different
then both sides have different grit.

 The higher the number, the softer the file grit

 The lower the number, the coarser the file grit

 Nail Buffer Grit

220/280 – You can use this buffer during manicure treatments to eliminate ridges
from natural nails and make the whole surface even and smooth prior to nail polish
application.

 600/4000 – this is the magic wand which brings the shine. Most of the brands
have one side in green and second in white. The green side creates the shine
and white side only reveals it.

5.1.5 Cuticle Pusher

A cuticle pusher is a nail tool used to perform manicures and pedicures. It pushes
the skin from your cuticles back and away from your nails. It helps your nails grow
healthier and stronger.

5.1.6 Cuticle Nipper

Cuticle nippers are used to trim tough cuticles and hangnails. The small, stainless
steel head on the cuticle nipper is designed for precision when trimming ingrown
nails.

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5.1.7 Manicure Dusting Brush
A dusting brush is to keep the nails clean of any small dust particles when
performing a manicure.

5.1.8 Nail Brush

Nail brushes are usually made with short, strong bristles that can slough away dirt
that has collected on the nails, around the nail bed, and underneath the fingernails.
The nail brush can also be dipped in acetone to remove nail polish that has collected
in the cuticle area.

5.1.9 Manicure Bowl

A small bowl is used for soaking the fingers to soften the cuticles. Anti-bacterial soap
is added to the water to help prevent infections. The bowl is also used with lukewarm
water to remove exfoliator or mask.

5.1.10 Mask Brush

A mask brush allows for an even layer of the mask to be applied to your
client’s hands. The mask brush ensures that you use less product.

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5.2 Manicure Practical
Pre-hand treatment
 Wash / sanitise your hands
 Introduce yourself to the client. Address client by surname / name
 Offer the client, a drink (Not during Covid)
 Seat the client
 Ensure that client is: comfortable, warm/ cool enough, music suits treatment,
music volume is to guest’s satisfaction
 Ask client questions that would affect her treatment (contraindications) e.g
pregnant, medication, allergies etc.
 Ask the client to choose nail polish colour
 Confirm with the client, which shape and length she wants her nails

Manicure Process
 Spray the clients hands with sanitiser
 Remove nail polish with nail polish remover (Acetone) and cotton wool
 Cut/file and shape the nails
 Re-confirm after filing the first nail, that client is happy with the shape and
length of the nails. Before you continue with the other nine nails
 Apply cuticle softener/ remover on the cuticles
 Push back cuticles and clean nail plate edges
 Trim hang nails and cuticle area of dead skin
 Clean under the free edge of the nail if needed
 Clean nail plate using nail polish remover and cotton wool
 Should there still be nail polish on the cuticles, use soft nail brush with nail
polish remover
 Lightly buff the nails, only if needed. Clean the nail plate using nail polish
remover
 Gently scrub the hands, using the exfoliator
 Soak off the scrub, in a manicure bowl with warm water and antibacterial soap
 Dry the hands, with a soft towel
 Ensure that there are no granules left
 Optional – Apply Mask – leave it on for 5 - 7min – wrap with cling wrap
 Remove mask with hot compress or warm water
 Confirm the clients preferred massage pressure soft/medium/hard
 Hand and forearm massage
 Clean the nail plate with nail polish remover and cotton wool
 Paint the nails: 1. Base Coat; 2. 2-3 Coats of Colour; 3. Top Coat; 4. Quick
Dry
 Apply cuticle oil to the cuticle area, take care not to smudge the nail polish on
the nails

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Post Treatment
 Therapist, wash your hands
 Offer client a glass of water (Not during Covid)
 Return and discuss homecare, retail products, discuss future treatments
 Prepare invoice, pack retail purchase, re-book client for next treatment
 Sanitise and sterilise manicure equipment. Wash and sanitise manicure bowl

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