Technical Sketch
Woven, No Waist Seam, No Seam, Center Back Seam, No Seam No Back Closure, Set In Sleeves,
Florentine Neckline, Full Bishop Sleeve, Neckline Facing
Sewing Instructions
Sewing Darts on the Front
- Stitch bust darts along the marked line on the Front, starting from the side seam and sewing
towards the apex. Backstitch at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press down.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Front.
Sewing Darts on the Back
- Stitch waist darts along the marked line on the Back. Start from the top of the dart. Backstitch
at the beginning, leaving a long thread tail at the dart tip.
- Knot the thread tails at the dart tip.
- Press toward center.
- Staystitch the neckline on the Back.
Sewing the Shoulders
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at shoulders, then stitch. Finish the seam
allowances separately and press open.
Sewing Side Seams
- With right sides together, pin Front to Back at right side seam, then stitch from armhole down to
the notch. Press open.
- Stitch the left side seam, leaving an opening between zipper notches. Press open.
Setting Side Seam Invisible Zipper
Note: Use special invisible zipper foot when stitching invisible zipper. Zipper can be trimmed
(remove the excess zipper length from the bottom, secure the new end of the zipper by stitching
over the zipper teeth using a bar tack).
- Pin the remainder of left side seam, then baste from zipper notch to the hem. Press open.
- Pin the closed zipper tape face down to seam allowances, placing zipper teeth on seamline,
aligning centers and matching notches (so that it opens from the hem). Baste.
- Undo the basting stitch that was keeping front and back side seams together.
- Open the zipper. Position left-hand groove of zipper foot over teeth and stitch close to teeth,
starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the beginning and
the end.
- Position right-hand groove of the zipper foot over teeth and stitch the zipper tape to the right
opening edge, starting at the top of the edge and stitch up to the zipper notch. Backstitch at the
beginning and the end.
- Undo the basting stitch. Press.
- Stitch or hand sew the end of zipper tape to seam allowance, keeping the garment free when
stitching.
Sewing Bishop Sleeve
- Gather lower edge of the sleeve: stitch at 1/2" (1.3 cm), using long machine stitches, then stitch
2nd row 1/4" (6mm) away inside seam allowance, leaving long thread tails at the end of each
stitch. Pull thread ends and evenly distribute gathers.
- Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the cuff. Pin one edge of the cuff to the sleeve,
right sides together. The sleeve’s underarm seams and the ends of the cuff should match. Evenly
distribute any gathers to fit the cuff and stitch.
- Press the unsewn lengthwise seam allowance toward the wrong side of the cuff. Press the
seam allowances toward the cuff.
- Easestitch the sleeve cap between small circles, leaving long thread tails. Stitch at 1/2" (1.3
cm), using long machine stitches, then stitch 2nd row 1/4" (6mm) away inside seam allowance.
- Match and pin the underarm seam and the cuff seam, right sides together. Stitch. Fold the cuff
along the center foldline, matching wrong side to wrong side and stitchline to stitchline. Pin.
From the right side of the sleeve, topstitch the cuff in place.
- Insert one sleeve into the armhole, right sides together, matching notches and seams. Match
the center sleeve notch with the shoulder seam. Adjust the ease of the sleeve cap, by pulling
thread tails, then baste and stitch. Serge the seam. Press seam towards the bodice.
Neckline
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of neck facings, following manufacturer's instructions.
- With right sides together, pin Front and Back Neck Facings at shoulder seams, then stitch. Press
seams open.
- Stitch facings at center back, then press open.
- Finish facing’s outer edge.
- With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge of the garment, matching notches, centers
and seams, then stitch.
- Trim facing’s seam allowance to 1/8" (3 mm) and bodice’s neckline seam allowance to 1/4" (5
mm). Clip into the curves.
- Press seams toward the facing.
- Understitch facing, then turn to inside and press.
- Tack at shoulders.
Hem
- Stitch 1/2" (1.3 cm) from lower edge of the garment. Turn in and press edge alongside
stitching. Trim close to stitching, then turn in again along trimmed edge. Stitch.
- Make 5/8" (1.5 cm) narrow hem at side opening edges, tapering to nothing above the opening.
Pivot across seam allowance 1/4" (6mm) above the notch when stitching.