Dry Process

Denim dry process comes before wet process and it changes the visual appearance by mechanical
abrasion without altering the construction and properties. The garment gets a nice look after dry
process and also it adds value to the product. Garments can achieve a more fashionable look by
applying dry process. Dry process are widely used in denim garments.

Sand Blasting for apparel

Sand blasting is a mechanical dry washing process by which Al2O3 is passing through a nozzle
with the help of high-speed compress air. Dummy can be used for this type of washing. Basically
sandblasting is used in heavy garments like; denim, twill, Canvas, corduroy etc. Sand blasting
technique involves removing the dark indigo pigmentation from the apparel propelling a stream of
abrasive material (sand) against the fabric under high pressure gradually softens and lightens the
denim. The desired finishing result can be achieved by increasing or decreasing the exposure.
Objectives:
1. To create fashionable apparel as per buyers’ demand.
Procedure:
1. Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) is used for Sand Blasting which is looks like sand. Before Al2O3,
Silicon- di-Oxide is used to fade the apparel.
2. These aluminum oxides are very fine & very hard/sharp.
3. These aluminum oxides through by gun with dry air to perform sand blasting action.
4. The gun has a switch to start and stop the flow of aluminum oxides.
5. The garments to be Sand Blasted are placed on the bed of a closed chamber.
6. The garments are instantly faded by the frictional effect of aluminum oxide.
7. The flow of aluminum oxide on fabric surface is done at 10-20° angles. The blowing angle
is very important.
8. Higher the blowing angle higher the fading affect & higher the risk of fabric damage.
9. Time depend on fading areas and depth of fading.
10. Sand blasting requires a minimum pressure of 60-70 PSI and ideal pressure is 90-100 PSI.
11. After mechanical fading, chemical treatments are required for the buyer’s requirement.

Figure 1 Sand Blusting

Precaution of Sand Blasting
Proper protection is needed for the operator so that any threat can be avoided
1. Protection eyeglass,
2. Using mask,
3. Earplug,
4. Should use a helmet, Cap.
5. Using apron
Advantages:
1. It is a purely mechanical process that uses no chemicals.
2. It is a water-free process; therefore no drying is required.
3. A variety of distressed or abraded looks is possible.
4. Any number of designs can be created by special techniques.
Disadvantages:
Sand blasting causes silicosis that’s why it was banned by some brands.
Alternative to sand blasting or hand sand:
The hand sand method is widely used since sandblasting has been banned by some brands. Hand
sand creates a very similar design as sand blasting. In hand sand, the worker uses emery paper to
scarp away the top layer of indigo from the fabric. It can be used in particular placements and
designs. The location chosen for the scraping can be front thigh or back seat. The most important
factors in the hand sand are the right selection number of sand paper (In apparel industry from
220,320 and 400 number papers are most popular and widely used) and the intensity and the
pressure of scraping. The process can be done by placing the apparel by using the rubber balloon
or plain wooden boards. The hand sand must be started from intense part and gradually feathering
out on less intense part. However, manual sandblasting is preferred by factories as it is cheaper
because it does not require investment in advanced and expensive industrial equipment.

Figure 2 Hand scraping

 Whiskering
Whiskers are one of the most important dry process of denim wash bringing used look garment.
The idea of whiskers is taken from the worn out lines and impression patterns generated by natural
wearing on hips and front thigh area. On old jeans, a number of patterns can be finding
consequential to fabric, body shape of user or sitting posture. It is also known as Cat’s Whisker.
Whiskering Process:
Various methods are designed to create this impression on jeans. Such as:-Mostly rubber balloons
are available with different pattern designs. Garments are mounted on balloons and filled with air
to get impressions of whiskers. Garment is scrubbed over pattern carefully with sand paper on
engraved pattern lines. This operation requires high skilled labor and who can handle uniformity
and sequence in whisker line. Fabric may damage during rubbing if care is not taken. This method
is famous for high quality and cost effectiveness. Sometimes separate patterns are made and fixed
on balloons to make mustaches. These patterns are made of thin rubber sheets and electric wires
or rubber cords and pasted on balloons for pattern lines. Thin line patterns are very easy to work
in that way but it is not much successful for broad lines. Engraved patterns on thick board like hard
rubber sheets are widely used for whiskers impression making. This idea is very simple to draw
lines on rubber sheets and engrave them with blade. Garment is places on sheet and scrapped on
specific area to draw this impression on garment. For its low cost patterns, it is most frequently
used in small industries especially where the production is not consistent to style.
In some workshops it is done manually with the help of sharp edge rolled on fine wood sticks of
pasted on plastic material. Before starting execution, placement and pattern must be marked on
garment, this will help operator to execute the pattern right to match the aesthetics of garment.

Figure 3 Whiskering pattern

 Figure 4 whiskered garment

Tagging/tacking
Tagging is a pre-wash process that creates distinctive effects on garments after any wet washing.
It is done at unwashed condition and the effect is visible after wash. In this process the effect is
created by swift tag machines with the help of plastic tag pins in rigid forms of garments to get
contrast. Materials needed for tagging are- tag gun, tag pin, chalk. Sometimes it creates hole on
the garments. Tagging can also be done manually by needle and thread.
Procedure of tagging:
1. Identify and mark specific area on the garments where tagging will be applied.
2. Fold the garments as per standard procedures, focusing on the edges as per buyers
demand
3. Attach the tag pins on the folded edges or designated areas using a tag gun
4. Perform a quality check to ensure that the tagging is done as per standards and to ensure
the desired effects
 Figure 5 tagging

3D Wrinkle/Crinkle
It is one of the important finishing treatment on denim garment which is applied after wet process.
Bringing 3D effect on denim garments by treating with resins are called 3D crinkle. The 3D effect
and natural vintage look adds value to denim garments and increases demand in market. This
process is done manually or semi automatically using resins like low formaldehyde or DMDHEU
type resins which make crosslinks between cellulosic bonds and when the fabric deforms or folds
or losses its normal orientation, those chemicals prevents the transformation to normal position
and that causes wrinkles or creases. Various supporting auxiliaries are used for better penetration
of resins and softeners used for softness.
Recipe for Resin Solution
1) Resin (DMDHEU- Dimethyl Di-hydroxy Ethylene Urea): 20%
2) Water: 80%
3) Softener: 0.5g/L (If required)
Flow process of 3D Wrinkling
1) At first the denim pant in set into the dummy.
2) Some part of upper thigh of the pant is folded with clip according to design.
3) Then the resin solution is sprayed with nozzle for measured quantity.
4) After that the garment is loaded in the oven for curing at (120-140) degree for (20- 40) minute.
5) When curing is complete, the garment is unloaded and left at room temperature for (10-15)
minutes for cold dry.
Principle of Wrinkle Formation and Resin action
Cotton is a cellulosic fiber and its polymer is linked by many hydroxyl (-OH) groups .The
structural units of cellulose contain crystalline region, amorphous region and intermediate region.
In the crystalline region, the cellulose chains are closely packed and the mobility of the chains is
low. However, for the amorphous and the intermediate regions, the molecular chains are
temporarily held together with weak hydrogen bonds and the bonding could be broken easily when
distortion force is applied. After the force is applied, the temporarily bonds would reform into a
new position and the chains are failed to return to their original positions. As a result, wrinkle or
crease is formed. The resin forms covalent bonds to replace the weak hydrogen bonds between the
cellulose chains. Therefore, the stability of the bonding would be improved and the molecule
chains would more likely to return to its original position. When cellulose cotton fiber is treated
with resin agent, intermolecular crosslinks would be strengthening because of the bonding. As a
result, cellulose chains would be able to hold the adjacent molecular chains.

DMDHEU

Figure: A cross-linking resin DMDHEU (Dimethylol dihydroxyethylene urea) which forms

covalent bond between cellulose chains that lock them in place result a permanent crinkle effect
in the garment.
[DMDHEU is also known as N, N-dimethylol 4, 5-dihydroxy- ethylene urea]
Disadvantage of Resin
In this process DMDHEU works as the main linking agent which links molecules of cotton fiber.
Thus creases appear on the garment. The hydrolysis of the N-hydroxymethyl groups from
untreated cross-linking agent or from single end reacted with DMDHEU molecules may form
formaldehyde. Formaldehyde is a toxic chemical that may:
1. Cause irritation to eye, skin and even to mucous membrane.
2. Give an unpleasant odour.
3. Cause cancer to human body when taken for a long time. Moreover the resin may give unwanted
harsh and stiff fee.
Substitute of DMDHEU
The resin we are using can be altered with formaldehyde free substance that can perform similar
function crosslinking. Moreover 3D wrinkle on denim pant can be imparted with glyoxal with
aluminium suylphate catalyst with high pressure. Otherwise modified DMDHEU (with low or zero
discharge of formaldehyde) can be used, which is not 100% formaldehyde free but engineered to
meet the restricted limits.

PP spray & PP sponging

Denim dry process comes before wet process and it changes the visual appearance by mechanical
abrasion without altering the construction and properties. The Apparel gets a nice look after dry
process and also it adds value to the product. Fashionable Apparels are produced by the dry
process.
PP (Potassium Permanganate) is being done on denim Apparels to achieve local abraded area to
appear whiter than back ground indigo color shade. This process is very complicated & needs
highly skilled operators to execute it followed by immediate neutralization. It can be applied by
two methods,
 1. PP spray
2. PP sponging
PP Spray-procedure
Potassium permanganate is sprayed in specific parts of the garment to fade color and bring a bright
effect on the hand scraped area. It is often done on Denim, Twill, poplin, corduroy fabrics. It is
done after the first wash. Liquid potassium permanganate color is pink but after applied to garment
turns to muddy brown or grey on drying. Sometimes acetic acid or phosphoric acid is mixed to
increase its intensity. It is always followed by the neutralization by Sodium-meta by sulphate or
other neutralizing agents. The concentration of potassium permanganate will control the extent of
brightness or effect.
Stock Solution preparation
 Water: 1 Litre.
 Potassium permanganate (0.5- 15 gm/L) (standard stock solution= 0.4%)
 Acetic acid (as per needed)
Indigo dyed fabrics treated with low concentration whereas Sulphur black dyed fabrics need high
concentration to treat.
Apparatus arrangement for PP spray:
 P.P. Spray Cabin
 Spray gun
 Air Dummy Water circulation system
 Musk, gloves, safety shoes& apron
Controlling parameters
Distance: Less distance will give more defined and sharp effect and more distant will give less
bright and mild effect.
Air to water ratio of gun: Low air pressure will result in dropping the solution on the garments
instead of spraying which will result in bright spot.
Concentration: This will control the extent of fading.
PP Sponging/Rubbing:
1. Preparation of Potassium Permanganate solution. (PP 20%, water 80%).
2. Taking the solution in a tray or bowl.
3. Taking a rubber board.
4. Then taking a denim trouser & place the rubber board inside the leg panel of the
trouser.
5. Now the trouser is needed to be placed with rubber board on a flat table & sponged
or rubbed PP on apparel surface.
 6. Then the color will be faded.
7. After this process wet process essential (detergent/bleach/enzyme wash)

Laser fading
Laser fading is a popular dry process for denim these days. It has been used extensively as the
replacement of some conventional dry processes like sand blasting, hand sanding, destroying, and
grinding etc. which are potentially harmful and disadvantageous in some manner. By using a laser
it is possible to create a worn out look on denim, which could be an alternative method to
conventional processes. Generally a CO2 laser is a suitable tool for the discoloration of indigo-dye
on denim fabric.

Process:
In the laser-based fading process, a computer drives the laser beam to the material where marking
or fading is required. The laser beam decomposes the dye and the resulting vapors are vented away.
The material fades only where the beam impacts on the fabric. Commercially two types of lasers
are being used: solid based (wavelength of 1 mm) and gas based (wavelength of 10 mm). The
desired degree of fading depends upon the wavelength, power density, and pulse width of the laser
beam. The method of marking or fading by laser is more environmental friendly as compared to
acid washing or sandblasting.
Flow Chart of Laser Finish:
Create Design Pattern
↓
Convert the Pattern into .bmp format
↓
Input the Design into Laser System
↓
Set the Pixel Time
↓
Placing the Garments
↓
Location Identification
↓
Start

The specifications of the CO2 laser were:

-average output power 150/250 watts,
-Peak output power 230/400 watts,
-Working frequency 50/60 Hz and
- Polarization linear.
Parameters influencing the laser beam and material interaction:
1. Wavelength: Most commercial system use CO2 lasers (10.µm) for their high absorption
efficiency by cotton fibres. Shorter wavelength results in deeper penetration and sometimes
may affect the fibre(damage or burning) and longer wavelength affects the surface dye,
2. Laser power: The amount of energy delivered. Higher power increases the amount of
indigo dye removed, creating a lighter shade, but can also cause yellowing or damage to
the fabric. Optimum laser power range lies between 100 to 300W.
3. Laser speed: The rate at which the laser beam moves across the fabric. Lower speed
increases the interaction time, leading to deeper fading and greater dye removal. Laser
speed range is 500 to 1500mm/s.
 4. Resolution: Generally resolution in laser fading indicates the DPI (Dots per inch). DPI
determines the density of the pulses, with higher DPI (150-300) generally producing more
detailed, sharper image with higher contrast. Lower DPI cannot ensure design clarity.
5. Pixel time: Defines the duration the laser beam stays on each spot. Optimal fading is often
found between 100 to 400 µs. Higher pixel time ensures higher degree of fading.

Advantages of laser fading technology:

1. Any design at any place can be created.
2. Fading on seams, on metal buttons is possible.
3. Faster process compared to the conventional dry processes.
4. Almost 100% design accuracy.
5. Suitable for wide range of material.
6. Comparatively less strength loss than other mechanical fading. [For example, in a study it
was found that, for hands sand brush tensile strength in warp ways decreased by 56.68%,
for laser faded tensile strength decreased by 1.31% and for PP spraying reduced by 2.57%
in comparison with the raw denim].
7. Low hairiness compared to other mechanical fading.
8. Environment friendly.
9. Zero water waste.
10. Requires no chemicals.
11. Less manpower required.
Disadvantages of laser fading technology:
Despite so many advantages of laser-based apparel technologies, following are some of their
limitations:
1. Initial investment is very high, which is a problem for small and medium size industries.
2. Skilled operator is needed, which might be a disadvantage in some particular
circumstances.
3. Producing natural effect is difficult and often requires some manual touch after the fading
to give the product natural look.
4. The laser beam itself and the produced fumes are health hazards.
5. Maintenance and servicing of the laser system may be troublesome in some circumstances
 Grinding
Grinding is the destruction of edges or the worn out effect on the edge of the garments. It is often
done on hem, pocket edge, west belt, pocket opening by running against abrasion surface or stone
to achieve worn out effect. It brings old look appearance and creates high fashion garments.
Grinding machine is used to destroy the edges. For grinding small size stones are used in the
grinding machine.

Destroying
Destroy is the most popular distressing method which is done by pen grinding machine with
different size stones. It look like holes and worn out white yarns which make garments unique and
fashionable.
Destroy process by grinding machine:

1. First mark the place to be destroyed by the grinding machine

2. Slightly attach the machine with the garment and slowly remove the cellulose
3. After washing it will get the desired effect