ROPE ACCESS &

ROPE RESCUE
METHODS
Author Clive Bush ©
[Link]

V1.9
 Caution – Illustrations in this booklet are for
guidance only and should only be used by
competent persons

Prusik Rescue take no responsibility for personal

injuries

Safety is a paramount
Copyright © 2023 prusikrescue
 Rope Access
Contents

• Ascending & Descending Change Overs

• Rope To Rope Transfers

• Passing Knots in Descent & Ascent

• Deviations

• Rigging

• Retrievable Abseils

• MA 3:1 5:1 9:1

• Fall Factors

• Petzl Maestros

• Vortex
 Change Overs
Descent to Ascent
& Ascent to Descent
Ascent to Descent

To change from Ascent to Descent, you will need to

load the ID with the line from the anchor point as
per the diagram on the ID (Left hand side of the ID)

Try and place the ID as close the bottom of the

Chesty, so you have less distance to change over
and less likely to load your hand jammer or not
reach it.
Once the ID is loaded on the line you can
now stand up in your foot loop, and
unweight your chesty and take the line
out.

Now when you lower yourself down the ID

now takes the weight, making sure you
can still reach you Hand jammer and its
not loaded.
Next remove your hand jammer from the
line

Now you are in Descent having changed

over from Ascent
Descent to Ascent

To change from Descent to Ascent, first

place on your hand jammer on the
working line with enough space for the
chesty to be placed on next in-between
the line from the top of the ID to the
bottom of the hand jammer
Next stand up in your foot loop and place
your chesty in the line as marked.

Now you should have slack into the ID to

remove the line.
Descent to Ascent

Next remove the line from the ID

Now you are in Ascent

Ascending using a Descender
Ascending a line on a
Descending device Petzl ID -
D4- Rig

We can ascend a line on our

descending devices as we know,
but there is a way to make a MA
to make hauling yourself more
efficient.

If we add a pulley and a crab to

the hand jammer the line can be
placed in the pulley to make a
simple 3:1 MA system.

It can be done but not as

efficient with just a crab, it can
also be placed in the top hole of
the hand jammer, but
remembering to capture the line
 Deviations
Ascent & Descent
Deviations in Ascent

Deviations in Ascent

First keep ascending till you are level with the

Deviation

You will notice the deviation has Two

carabineers in the sling or rope, this is to make
the manoeuvre easier.
First keep ascending till you are level with the
Deviation
Next take both lines that are below you, and
bring them up to the spare screw gate crab and
then attach them through the crab.

So the ends of the lines are going to the ground.

Next remove both lines in the first crab.
Once you detach from the first crab you will
swing out, but you will still be in the deviation as
the lines are in the second crab

As you ascend up the lines will drop into the

second crab
You will now find that you are above the
deviation and you can keep ascending
Deviations in Descent

Deviations in Descent

You will need to Descend down

almost level with the Deviation,
the lines will be in a loop below
you
Once you are level with the
deviation, you will need to perhaps
use a cows tail or your own
strength to pull yourself into the
deviation.

You will need to place the spare

crab into both lines above the ID
and ASAP
The Crab needs to go into both
lines
You are now past the deviation in
descent.

Keep descending down to the

ground.
 1.5 M
1.5 M

20
de
g

X1 X2

Setting Deviations
Deviations

When setting a deviation look at why it’s deviated first, is it due to a hazard?
Which lead to a line failure.

If not then a single sling from the anchor will be fine as long as no more than 20
Degrees and 1.5 M in distance from the top anchor to the deviation

If a hazard is present and could lead to a line failure then you must use two
slings from the anchor
Double Deviations
Ascent & Descent
Double Deviation in Ascent

A Double Deviations would be used over a single

when the risk is greater of a swing or line failure
into a hazard.
x2
You have two slings and crabs attached to both
ropes.

So you will need to make a third connection to

allow one of the deviations to be removed at a
time ( 2 points of attachment min)
Double Deviation in Ascent

Double Deviations in Ascent

First keep ascending till you are level with the

Deviation

You will notice the deviation has Two

attachment points this is due to the risk of an
uncontrollable swing in to a hazard.
First keep ascending till you are level with the
Double Deviation
Next take an adjustable lanyard, Petzl Progress
or Grillon and make a attachment to the anchor.

Then adjust it so it pulls you into the anchors

allowing the double deviation to go slack.
This will allow the slings on the double
deviations to go slack and ONE at a time you
can remove and place below your Croll and
ASAP

The reason for one at a time is so that you still

remain two points of attachment the anchor in
case of a swing into the hazard.
The Grillon or progress is still loaded so it will
have to be released but controlled as not to
swingout towards the hazard.

Once you let out the deviation will be below you

now.
Double Deviation in Descent

Descend down till you are level with the

anchor point

Once you are level use and adjustable lanyard

Petzl progress or Grillon to secure to the
anchor and pull yourself in.

This will allow the double deviation to go slack

Once the Deviations are slack ONE at a time you
can place them above your ID and ASAP

Again this is to control the risk of a swing into a

hazard, as 2 points of attachment at all times.
You can now left out on the adjustable lanyard
controlled, to allow the double deviation to go
tight again.

Then remove your lanyard and descend again

pass the deviation.
 Small Re Anchor
Descent & Ascent
Small Re Anchor

A Small Re Anchor can be used as well as a

deviation to move the lines in contact with a
hazard or move the line nearer the task area for
example. A small re anchor is less than 1.5m for
a large re anchor +1.5m a R2R technique would
be used with 4 POC
Descent – Small Re Anchor
Descend down till the ID is
in line with the re anchor
knots – Don’t go to low or
you be in the bottom of
the loop making this
technique harder

Next you will require a

short cows tail or
adjustable lanyard to make
short

Pull yourself in and clip it

to the anchor 3 POC now
Descent – Small Re Anchor
Make sure you have
identified the new lines to
the ground and you are not
in the loop of the re anchor
– by placing the lines over
your shoulder

Next descend down till the

short cows tail/lanyard
becomes weighted but
make it as short as you can
to keep out the bottom of
the loop
Descent – Small Re Anchor
Due to having 2 POC
now ID & short cows
tail etc – you can
remove the ASAP and
place it on the new
line to the ground

Next remove the ID

from the lines and
place it up high on the
new lines to the
ground
Descent – Small Re Anchor
Once you have you ID
and ASAP on the new
lines you will require
to remove the short
cows tail of lanyard –
if its adjustable to can
just let out on it to re
weight your ID line

If not you will require a

foot loop to stand up
in to remove the short
cows tail

Then Descend
Ascent – Small Re Anchor
Ascend up the lines
till your ASAP can go
no higher and you
Hand Jammer.
You then need to
attach a long cows tail
or lanyard to one or
both of the anchor
crabs.
Now you have 3 POC
to allow you to stand
up in your footloop
and remove your Croll
& place the new line in
it.
Ascent – Small Re Anchor

Now you have 3 POC

to allow you to stand
up in your foot loop
and remove your Croll
& place the new line in
it. Then put your HJ on
the same new line

Pull the slack through

to load the Croll
Ascent – Small Re Anchor
Next move your ASAP
from the old safety
line to the new one
and keep it high.

You will be on your

new lines with 2 POC
so you can remove the
long cows tail or
lanyard.

Now Ascend the new

lines
Large Re Anchor
1.5m +
Descent & Ascent
 Ascent – Large Re Anchor
A Large Re Anchor would
be where you are more
than 1.5m away from the
re anchor and where a
1.5m + large uncontrollable swing
could acre if one set of
anchors failed.

Its treated as a large R2R

with 4 POC – then you can
place your descender and
ASAP on the new lines to
the ground with another
R2R
Small Re Anchor
Descent Rescue
Descent Rescue – Small Re Anchor
Descend down with the
casualty till the ID is in line with
the re anchor knots – Don’t go
to low or you be in the bottom
of the loop making this
technique harder & make sure
the casualty is not caught in the
loop.

Next you will require an

adjustable lanyard to make
short

Pull yourself in and clip it to the

anchor 3 POC now
Descent Rescue – Small Re Anchor
Now connect the casualty's
ID on your waist D ring but
remembering to capture
the hard link to the
casualty sternum POC

Then load the new ID on

the lines to the ground and
the casualty's ASAP to the
safety line to the ground.

Now let out on the original

ID which will load the new
ID (same as a R2R)
Descent Rescue – Small Re Anchor
Now take off the original
ID and ASAP as you are on
2 POC on your new lines to
the ground again making
sure you are not caught in
the loop.

Descend to the ground

once you have checked
your ASAP is not locked,
and add the extra control
carabiner
Passing Knots
Passing Knots in Descent Safety

Passing a Knot in Descent, in the safety line.

Stop when the knot is about an inch below the

ASAP or the knot will jam in the bottom of the
ASAP making removal hard.
Next tie an Alpine Butterfly below the knot.

Next attach a cows tail (Green Rope) to the AB

This will allow you to remove your ASAP due to
two points of contact (ID and AB)

Place the ASAP on below the AB

Next you can remove the AB tied into the line.

Now the knot is above the ASAP allowing you

carry on in descent
Passing Knots in Descent Working Line

Passing a knot in Descent in the working line

(pointed out by the red arrow)

Stop 1 inch before the knot gets to the top of

the ID as you wont be able to open the top
plate of the ID
Now change into Ascent on your working line,
(two points of contact) this will enable you to
open the ID and remove the rope and place it
back in with the knot the anchor side of the ID.

Now you have to “reverse prussic” in short

distances, by placing your finger in the top of
the chesty and pushing down to release the
teeth but not take out

Keep lowering until the knot is just 1 inch below

the chesty
Now change into Descent, then the knot will be
the anchor side of the ID enabling you to keep
descending down
Passing Knots in Ascent Working Line

To pass a knot in Ascent in your working line,

you must first stop 1 inch below the know with
your hand jammer (if you go up to the knot it
will be harder to remove the hand jammer)
Due to working with two points of contact at all
times, you must place your ID on the working
line below the chesty, but as tight to it as you
can to reduce the shock if it becomes loaded.

You now have Two points on contact on the

same line.
The hand jammer can be removed now due to
the ID is on the same line for “back up”

The hand jammer is placed above the knot and

allowing for enough space to place your chesty
between the bottom of the hand jammer and
the top of the knot
Next stand up in your foot loop so you can
replace your chesty on the line above the knot.
Next you can now take off your ID as you are on
one point of contact again

The knot is now below your chesty

You can continue to ascend again now.

Passing Knots in Ascent on safety line

Passing a knot in your safety line in

Ascent, again stop below the knot

Tie and AB high on the line to reduce

the fall factor
Now attach a Cows tail to the AB you
have tied.

This will now be your one point of

contact on the safety line.
Now remove your ASAP and place it
above the knot
Now take off the cows tail and un tie
the AB from the line

You can now Ascend the line as before

with the knot now below you.
 Passing Knots in
Descent with a Casualty
Passing Knots with a Casualty

Once you have preformed a descent rescue

on the casualty and you find a knot in your
working line

You need to stop one meter from the knot to

the ID

This will allow you to preform the next step

with ease
Passing Knots with a Casualty

Tie an AB (alpine Butterfly) below the

knot, as close to it as you can

Then you will require a Basic (Croll) to be

clipped into the working line with a crab

You will then next clip the AB into the

crab, making a re anchor in effect.
Passing knots with a Casualty

Clip the AB into the crab from the basic

You will now have a loop with the knot in,

and anew line coming from the AB in a re
anchor

You will need the casualty's ID and place

in the new line from the AB and take in
the slack
Passing Knots with a Casualty

Let out on the old ID which will transfer you

onto your new ID and the line from the AB

Remove the original ID now you are on a re

anchor and past the knot

Allowing you to descend

The basic is a tooth device but it’s a static load

remembering the extra crab for friction on the
descend.
 Passing Knots with a casualty in
your working/live line

Descend so the knot is about 1M

from the ID

Then place on the 2nd ID from your

casualty making sure you have
captured the Sternum D point
and the First attachment point to
your casualty (Crab)

Then place the safety line in the

new ID and pull in the slack
 Rescues
Descent & Ascent
Rescue in Descent

To perform a simple “Snatch Rescue” in

descent you will need spare crabs

First descend down your lines so you are

just a little higher that the rescued
person, this will make the next step easier
to preform.
1st Point of Attachment

You next need to pull yourself towards

the casualty, so you are able to place a
crab from there sternum D point to your
ID crab, this is so the weight of two are on
the ID not in your harness

This some time can be done with a short

sling and crabs if one crab is hard to get
across and connected.
2nd Point of Attachment

Now you will need another point of

attachment, as you must have two points
on the casualty

The second point is your cows tail to the

casualty's waist D point (hard to see in this
pic)
The second point is your cows tail to the
casualty's waist D point
Once you have two points of contact, one in the
Sternum D to your ID crab, second a cows tail from
you to there waist D

You can now safely lower them from there ID

where the weight will now be transferred to your
ID, and then take off from the line

Next remove there ASAP from the safety line

Now place a crab from your side D and take the

line from the ID though it, to act as a friction
braking crab, holding the line out the top of the
crab

As the ID is 150kg Nominal Max load

Rescue in Ascent

To rescue a casualty in Ascent you will

need to perform a counter balance.

You need at descend down level with

them so you can place a crab from the
casualty's sternum D point to your crab
in your ID, this will then upright the
casualty as well.
Place a crab from the casualty's sternum D
point to your crab in your ID, this will then
upright the casualty as well.
The second point is your cows tail with
the hand jammer on to the casualty's
waist D point

Take the Hand jammer off but keep the

foot loop on the cows tail

You then place your Hand jammer on the

line from the croll, take there Hand
jammer off and place back on there
harness
Next you will need to feed the foot loop
from your cows tail up to the crab at the
bottom of your hand jammer you have
placed on the line

This will now act as your counter balance

once you stand up in your foot loop, at
the same time pull there harness up
making the line in the croll slack, so you
can remove it.
This will now act as your counter balance once
you stand up in your foot loop, at the same
time pull there harness up making the line in
the croll slack, so you can remove it.
Once the line is out of the croll, you need
now to grab your foot loop to slow the
descent down when you lower the
casualty's weight onto your ID, or your
foot will raise quickly in the foot loop
(see next slide)
Grab the foot loop with a clenched fist to
slow down the lower on to your ID

Or your foot in the loop will rise to high

for you to get your foot out.
Then remove there ASAP and put on
your breaking crab due to the ID will
have two peoples weight on it, the same
as rescue in descent.

Now slowly descend down to the

ground.
CMC Clutch Rescue in
Ascent to raise them
off the Croll (2nd point
of attachment not
shown but cows tail
onto waist D point
 Rescues
Single line
Single line rescue

The Rescuer will need to be on the

opposite lines to the person being
rescued as their ID line will be tight
etc
Single line rescue
The Rescuer
will need to
descend to the
person moving
their ASAP
down as they
go to get closer
to the person.
Single line rescue

The Rescuer will need

to make the first point
of contact – this is the
long cow’s tail into the
sternum D point as
you need to remove
the ASAP next
Single line rescue
Single line rescue
Same Line Rescue in Ascent from below the casualty

The Casualty is stuck in Ascent on the

croll

The Rescuer need to be on the

opposite lines to the casualty & if not
a great height on the ID to save a
change over once they reach the
casualty
Single line rescue
Same Line Rescue in Ascent from below the casualty

The Rescuer needs to ascend as far

as the ASAP can go – just below the
casualty croll – next place an AB in
the line and clip a cows tail in the AB
this will allow the rescuers ASAP to
be removed and placed above the
croll – then untie the AB

The Cows tail can

be clipped in the
central point of
the casualty –
then a quick draw
or crabs in the
sternum point to
the rescuers ID
crab – 2 points
Single line rescue
Same Line Rescue in Ascent from below the casualty
If the rescuer has an ASAP Lock then can
lock it off – place the foot loop from the
casualties croll up then over the ASAP
bar to the Sorbe – or below – then a
standard counter balance to take the
casualty off the croll – now the casualty
is on your ID – Breaking crab for the
descend down

Or a Hand
jammer can be
used for the
counterbalance
Rope to Rope
Rope to Rope

Rope To Rope Transfer in stages:

The operative needs to be in Descent first and also

have the other new lines.

Before you start the transfer its best to have one

set of lines one side of your body and the other set
the other side for rope admin.
Rope to Rope

Place the new line in your Chesty and pull the slack
through, then place your hand jammer on the same
line to assist you pulling the line though (One point
of contact)

Then tie an Alpine Butterfly in the other new line,

which will be the new safety line, make sure the AB
is high enough in case of a fall

Then connect a cows tail into the AB

Rope to Rope

Next the operative descends from the

old lines by using the ID until the line is
slack.

The new lines should be fully weighted

with two points of contact.
Rope to Rope

Once the old lines are unweighted you can take off
the ID and place it onto the new line coming from
your chesty

Next take off your ASAP and place it on the line

with the AB in, then take out your AB.

You will now be in Ascent on your new lines and the

old lines are no longer in use.
Rope to Rope

You will now be in Ascent on your

new lines and the old lines are no
longer in use.
Rope to Rope

If the operative needs to Ascend then they can do

so.

If the operative need to descend then they will

need to change over into descent from ascent.

As per change overs

 Rope to Rope

Points to Note:

You will need to be descent for a Rope to Rope.

You must have two points of contact at all times on the old lines and new lines.

Depending on the distance of the R2R you may need to tie further AB in the new safety
line once you transfer onto the new lines (Let out on your ID).
Rope to Rope with
a Casualty
Rope to Rope with a Casualty

Rope To Rope Transfer with a Casualty in stages:

The operative needs to be in Descent first and also

have the other new lines.

Before you start the transfer its best to have one

set of lines one side of your body and the other set
the other side for rope admin.
Rope to Rope with a Casualty

Due to having a casualty that has an ID and

ASAP you will need to use these for this
technique

Place the casualty's ID on your Ventral

attachment point on the ide of the new lines
as not to cross the lines and IDs making sure
you capture both the crab and Ventral point

Attach the ASAP to the sternum point

Rope to Rope with a Casualty

Now place the new lines in the ID and

place the new ASAP on the new line

You now have 4 points of attachment

on the lines, 2 on the old lines and 2 on
the new ones
Rope to Rope with a Casualty

Now operate the original ID and you will start to

transfer to the new ID on the new lines the ASAP’s
will follow
Rope to Rope with a Casualty

Once you have transferred all of the

your weight onto the new set of lines

You will be able to remove the

original ID and ASAP as you will be
on your new set.

Descend again now

Rope to Rope with a Casualty
Rescue Rope to Rope
Transfer
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

Rescue from a wide mid rope

transfer - The rescuer needs to
choose which line to ascend on
depending in which direction they
take the casualty – Croll direction
or ID direction
The rescuer is on the lines to take
the casualty out the ID direction
The rescuer ascends the lines right
up to the casualty, so the ASAP is
below the ID line
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

One the Rescuer is almost level

with the casualty, and they can’t
move any higher on the ASAP – tie
and AB in the line below the ASAP
and make a point of contact
Then move the rescuers ASAP
above the casualty ID and untie the
AB but place the point of contact in
the casualty’s sternum D point (first
point)
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

Now make the second point of

contact from the rescuers ID to the
casualty’s waist point of contact,
using 2 carabiners or a quickdraw
due to angle of all the lines and
Release the casualty’s ID and take
out the rope which is now the
rescuers safety line
Remove the ASAP from original
safety line and place on the
casualty’s line with the AB and
remove the point of contact in the
loop
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

The ID from the casualty now place

the line from the croll into the ID
The rescuer needs to complete a
counterbalance now using the
casualty hand ascender on the croll
line.
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

The casualty is now on

two lines and 2 points of
attachment to the rescuer
The rescuer is on two lines
and attached to the
casualty

The casualty’s ID can now

be operated where the
casualty will drop onto the
rescuers ID (no extra
friction crab is needed due
to its not fully loaded)
Rescue from a wide mid Rope to Rope transfer

The rescuer needs to

operate the ID from the
casualty – the casualty will
transfer on to the rescuer
Once the casualty is fully
weighed on to the
rescuers ID then it’s the
same as descent recue –
add an extra friction
carabiner then descend
once the casualty ID and
ASAP are removed
Spiders Web
Rigging
Spiders Web Rigging
First select suitable anchors minimum 4

Remember to tie a Fig 8/9 in one end then pass the

line through the other slings, then once equal tie a
Big overhand knot remembering to include the
end of the line in the knot

Then attach to the rigging plate Min hole side as

you will require the larger number of holes the load
side
 Spiders Web Rigging
Things to remember

Make sure all the lines are equal before you tie the Big Overhand
knot which is easier if two people do this one to hold the rope, the
other to tie the knot.

Its important that the end of the line is tied into the Big knot so the
knot doesn’t slip apart

Make sure that all lines are equal in tension in relation to your angle
of your rigging plate and cliff edge.
Y Hang or Double Bunnies Ears
You can see from the diagram below the angles for
rigging, and how much it loads the anchors
 “Y Hang” Narrow and Wide

Y Hang Narrow and Wide 1.5 M +

+1.5 M
1.5 M
x2
x2

When Rigging a Y Hang, if the anchors are less than

1.5m apart you can use a single sling and crab. This is
due to the pendulum swing of the twin lines across the
edge.

If the Anchors are more than 1.5m then you should use
two slings and two crabs on each line. You can see that
the pendulum swing on the twin lines across the edge
would be greater
Retrievable Abseil
Retrievable Abseil
A retrievable abseil needs to be placed over
the anchor point (Tree branch or another
unquestionably sound anchor)

You then need enough rope on the ground (3-

4 meters) you will also need minimum on the
other side at least the height of the anchor
and 3-4 meters extra
Retrievable Abseil
Next tie an Alpine Butterfly
in the line (coming from the
ground up to the anchor)

Next clip a screw gate

carabineer into the AB and
onto the other line
Retrievable Abseil
Next you pull down on the
line your side which will
make the AB and Crab raise
to the bottom of the
anchor. Make sure it sits ok
and is not twisted and the
crab is sitting ok
Retrievable Abseil
Lastly you will need to
place the “retrievable” end
out the way so as to
identify the live line (repeat
again with a second line)
Retrievable Abseil

Lastly you will need to

place the “retrievable” end
out the way so as to
identify the live line
Retrievable Abseil
Once the task is complete
to “Retrieve” the line you
pull on the line with the AB
in to bring it and the
carabineer to the ground
 Retrievable Abseil
Things to watch for:

Rope rub on the anchor ? Due to ascending you will be pulling

on the line as you ascend

Make sure you are able to “retrieve” the line once you have
completed the task

QUESTIONS ?
Protected Pull
Through
Protected Pull Through

A Protected Pull through would be used when

you don’t know or were not able to check the
edges of the anchors in case of sharp rub points.

The set up is the same as Retrievable Abseil, but

a wire strop and fixed pulley are used.

An AB is tied in the line and a wire strop

attached to a pulley on the other line as in the
diagram (swing cheek pulleys not advised)
As the line is pulled the AB travels
towards the anchor moving the pulley
up the line as well, the AB needs to pass
over the anchor.

The AB knot is then starting to travel

down towards the ground.
The AB will then stop once it hits the
pulley.

The wire strop will now be taking the

weight of the line, and the rope will be
slack over the anchor.

Its important to note that the strop must

be large enough to pass over the anchor
PETZL MAESTRO
MAESTRO® S

Descender with integrated progress-capture pulley for loads up to 250 kg, compatible
with 10.5 to 11.5 mm ropes

MAESTRO S is a descender designed for technical rescue operations. It facilitates

manipulation of heavy loads, for lowering or hauling, and may be used in both the
primary system or in a back-up belay.

This versatility allows rescuers to adapt to any situation they may encounter on the
rescue scene.

The integrated progress-capture pulley has a large diameter sheave mounted on sealed
ball bearings, ensuring excellent hauling efficiency.

The AUTO-LOCK system automatically locks the rope when the handle is not in use.
Once locked, the rope can be taken up without having to manipulate the handle.
Anchor attachment point

Moving Front plate

Fixed Break plate

Auxiliary attachment point

The front plate opens clock wise to expose the
Sheave and Moving breaking plate

Sheave

Moving Breaking plate

Handle (Has no panic device)

External brake
To load the rope into the Maestro, first open
the Front Plate, then place the rope around the
Sheave

Note the side of the anchor point (if you pull this side
the Breaking Plate will move to trap the rope)
 NORMAL BRAKING

To lower using the Maestro you would use the

extra braking plate and operate the handle with
your left hand in an under hand grip like the ID

(Be aware there is NO Panic feature like the ID)

Like the ID it’s a two hand operation, handle

hand and braking hand

But if you let go of the handle it springs to 12

o'clock position and locks
 MINUNIM BRAKING

If lowering there is to much friction from the

Breaking Plate, you can take it off and use it as
the diagram.

But the breaking hand must keep hold of the

rope at all times.
 PAYING SLACK

If you require to let out on the weighted line

then you are to pull out with your braking hand

But you are to hold the handle with your index

finger and the rope in your other three fingers,
this is to prevent fast descent on the weighted
line

See next slide

The two Maestros side by side in “Sharks
Finning” will still work to aid for a smoother
lowering.

One person operating the two handles and

another holding both ropes in one hand to
control the lines.
Aid Climbing
Aid Climbing

To Aid Climb on fixed anchors, you will

require two foot loops, two cows tails and a
third short cows tail, or a Petzl progress or
short Grillion,

You must remember to stay on two

separate points of attachment at all times
Aid Climbing

Move the rear cows tail and foot loop to the

centre one with the Grillon whilst its
unweighted and you are on the weighted
centre point
Aid Climbing

Next you want to move the centre one

which is weighted, so stand up in your
two foot loops (legs on the inside of the
foot loops to steady yourself)

Then clip the centre Grillon to the front

point
Aid Climbing

Now move the front cows tail and

foot loop to the forward one, with
your weight on the centre Grillon.
Aid Climbing

Move the rear cows tail and foot

loop to the centre one with the
Grillon whilst its unweighted and
you are on the weighted centre
point
Aid Climbing

Next you want to move the

centre one which is weighted,
so stand up in your two foot
loops (legs on the inside of the
foot loops to steady yourself)

Then clip the centre Grillon to

the front point
Aid Climbing

Now move the front

cows tail and foot
loop to the forward
one, with your weight
on the centre Grillon.
Aid Climbing

Keep Aid Climbing till you

reach your descent lines,
you would attach your ID
on your working line and
your ASAP on the safety
line. Take in the slack

Now take off both cows

tails and foot loops, then
let out on your centre
attachment point to
transfer on your ID and
ASAP
Pike ‘n Pivot
technique
Vertical Edge
Transition
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

Pike ‘n Pivot is a technique

developed by Rigging for
Rescue in the mid 1990’s as a
method for negotiating a 90
degree edge transition with no
high directional. The technique
greatly reduces the effort
needed to execute a difficult
edge transition using more
traditional methods.
Stretcher Bridle (Vertical Raise)

Attachment points from the stretcher (attachment points

nearest the shoulders) by slings to the Rigging plate in the
outer holes

Attachment points from the stretcher for the “Pivot” need

to be attached nearest the waist by wire slings (this is to
reduce damage to canvas slings from the cliff edge) but
they must reach the top of the stretcher to be placed or
secured out the way till needed (see slide three)
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

The wire slings can

be placed on the
stretcher like in the
picture and then
attached at the head
end with a crab till
required.
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

The stretcher is raised

vertically with an
attendant who can
when needed attach
the Pivot lines to a
single rope. (red line
on the stretcher)
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

Carefully watch the

lines and knots and any
metal work, Rigging
plate etc over the edge
protection making sure
it doesn’t catch

Edge personal maybe

able to assist the
attendant with the
stretcher
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

Once the stretcher gets so high it will start

to pull into the edge and not move
anymore

This is where the attendant now attaches

the Pivot line to a single line over the
edge, this can be pulled manually or on a
3:1 MA as the stretcher has the two points
of contact on it still.
Pike ‘n Pivot technique
The Pivot line is now pulled which lifts the
stretcher up and over the edge

The main lines on the head of the

stretcher can now just take in the slack
from the pivot line in case of a failure in
the single line.

The attendant should step to one side of

the stretcher before it pivots on the edge

Edge personal can also grab the stretcher

and assist the pivot.
Pike ‘n Pivot technique

With the assistance of the edge personal

the stretcher can now be pulled in from
the edge

Taking in on the hauling line in case of

failure in the Pivot line

If the attendant is on 5m + Petzl Grillons

then they can remain on the cliff edge and
either come over before of after the
stretcher.
Ladder Rescues
Ladder Climb

An Operative can used a rated ladder with

Scaffold Hooks, making sure they are
placed on separate runs of the ladder.
Also to only climb up or down once both
are placed, never move wit only one
attached, as it wont deploy properly in
case of a fall.

When climbing make sure they are placed

as high as possible. Don’t climb past the
hooks at waist level as this will increase
the fall factor.
Ladder Climb Rescue

To perform a simple “Snatch Rescue”

using the Petzl Rescue Jag.

You can see that the operative is now full

suspended on his lanyard and hooks.
Ladder Climb

You will need now to either climb up past

the operative or down to them.
Ladder Climb

Pictured on the right is the

Petzl Rescue Jag once it set
out.

The issue now is you will

need to raise the operative
off of the lanyard.

This will allow a safe lower

to the ground in the next
slides.
Ladder Climb

Set Up the Jag as per the training this

will allow you to use the MA to raise
the operative.

Once the end of the yellow line is

attached, then take in the slack
before you operate the Petzl Jag
Ladder Climb

This now allows for slack in the Lanyard,

to either remove the hooks or the
carabineer.
Ladder Climb

Now operate the Petzl ID to lower the

operative down to safety, again as per the
training you will receive.
Ladder Cl
Ladder Climb

Once the operative is on the ground the

rescuer can then down climb.

Remembering to rest the Petzl Jag before

you place it in the bag ready to be
deployed again.
Fall Factors
Energy absorbers require a min force of 2 KN (About 200kg) to deploy to a max
of 6 KN

2 M User Height

2 M Lanyard
length

1.75M
Extension
max

1 M Safety
Margin

6.75 M
Work Restraint, Work Position, Fall Arrest
 2:1 4:1 6:1
2:1
3:1
5:1 7:1
 9:1 15:1 21:1
3:1
5:1
 Carabiner V Delta Maillon
Remember a Crabiner can’t be multi way loaded - 22-25kN
A Maillon can be multi loaded – 45-55kN

90+ Deg

Slings wire or canvas if they are past 90 deg then a Maillon must be used
ID v Maestro/Clutch

• ID = Friction
• Maestro/Clutch = Pulley no friction
 Skate Block / English
Reeve / Norwegian Reeve
& others
1.5m+

Adjustable Rigging
with Grilons
Left hand side is rigged
for rescue
Right hand side hard
tied
Skate Block to Haul and then retrieve from the ground
 Twin Line Stake Block
Twin Line Stake Block

Two single pulleys

DAB Double Alpine Butterfly

Tails for attendant on ID and ASAP

Skate Block releasable

A skate block releasable is once its

hauled to the anchor pulleys then
changed to a vertical lower to pick up a
casualty eg

Use Barrel knots on the plate as the haul

will then sit as high on the pulleys as it
can
Once the barrel knots are close
to the pulleys – the operator will
be able to reach the skate block
pulleys by pulling down on the
line to undo the swing cheek
pulleys – but leave attached for
the reverse once ready
Once the pulleys
are disconnected
you can remove
the MA and start
to lower the
operator to the
casualty
Once the operative and
casualty are high enough the
pulleys can be attached to the
skate block line again – but
you may have to use two
carabiners to get the pulleys to
reach due to the extra weight

Then it’s a normal lower

Stretcher Lower with Rigging plate with
Tension Line
Set up of a Lower that can be placed on a
tension Line
English Reeve set up
Norwegian Reeve set up
 Single Line English Reeve

Twin ASAPs as back up

 The tension lines are set - the Kootaney can then be
attached with twin crabs to the DAB Loop

The DAB Loop provides the flexibility of the attached

metal work etc

The lowering lines have a DAB Double Alpine

T h e l o w e r i n g l i n e s h a v e a D A B D o u b l e A l p i n e B u t t e r f l y –

Butterfly – with tails – the stretcher is

w i t h t a i l s – t h e s t r e t c h e r i s a t t a c h e d i n t o t h e D A B L o o p

attached into the DAB Loop

The Black line is the 3rd line belay in case of the tension
line failure – twin lower lines and a single belay line will
stop the casualty and attendant in a pendulum swing

This can be attached to the Loop or Kootnay

The casualty has an ASAP on one of the tails or a Petzl

Grillon into the DAB Loop
The attendant has a few options of attachment – an ASAP
on the Grey line and a Petzl Grillon from them into the
Loop- two point of adjustable attachment
Vertical Stretcher raises with an attendant

Attendant is attached by the long tails from a

DAB or D-Bowline. Casualty on safety line with
an ASAP as well (2nd POC)
For the vertical edge transition raise its easier
to not have the attendant on the lines at all
making the haul easier at the top thought MA.
Getting the attendant to swap lines is easier,
all they need to do is place a 3rd POC in the
DAB loop so they can transfer the ASAP and ID
over one at a time then remove the 3rd POC.
They are now free to assist with the controlled
raise – they can assist by attaching the Pike n
Pivot lines (single or twin for redundancy) to
the stretcher that were already attached.
The attendant can then ascend on the ID and
Hand Jammer to the edge and up and over.
There are other methods and equipment this
is just one.
 Norwegian Reeve Twin Line

Twin push/pull line

non reeve side in
case of single line Twin Line Reeve
failure the load backed up with
would shift to the Quickdraws for
ground redundancy
 English Reeve

If you use Rock Exotica Omni Blocks make sure

they are facing alternate ways so each one
doesn’t open the other
Quickdraws used to back up the single axel
double pulleys
 Slopping Norwegian
Reeve
If you use Rock Exotica Omni Blocks make
sure they are facing alternate ways so each
one doesn’t open the other
Quickdraws used to back up the single axel
double pulleys
Twin lower lines used is case of failure of
one lines, the load would move towards the
ground
 Slopping
Norwegian Reeve
If you use Rock Exotica Omni Blocks
make sure they are facing alternate
ways so each one doesn’t open the
other
Quickdraws used to back up the single
axel double pulleys
Single lower lines used but backed up
with an ASAP in case of failure, the
load would move towards the ground
Issues if the ASAP locks though
Span Anchors
Clive Bush MInSTR
 Span Anchors are normally used where a Y-Hang or Multi anchor into a
BFK would be too much of an angle if your only anchors were very close to
your edge of danger.

But your anchors MUST be very unquestionable sound due to the forces
on them because the angle is over 120 degrees more 160/170 even.
Below is a typical Span Anchor set up using two ropes to create four lines
across reducing the force on the ropes.
You need 3 slings on each anchor ideally, you could use 2 but it then makes it
all bunched together with the knots.
Place a Fig 8/9 knot in one side then run the line to the other anchor and
place into a single crab.

Then bring it back to the fig 8/9 side but

on a separate sling place a descender ID
Rig Clutch, or another make. Then pull
the slack through the descender to make
the 2 lines hand tight only.
Don’t use any MA or you will increase the force
on the anchors.

Then complete the same for the second line

but from the other anchor first so you don’t
have it crowded one side.

In the below pics the yellow line was my first

rope then the white my second.
 Bring all four lines together to wrap 2 prusiks
into a rigging plate (Or a Kootney can be used,
or large crabs if they fit over 4 lines)

But keep it shallow as you can as you increase

your distance the danger edge, the reason for
choosing Span Anchors in the first place.
Cross haul