4HRAM10

























 A messsage to you,
a 4H member

In this rabbit project, you are going to learn

how to feed, manage and show rabbits.
If you are raising rabbits for the first time,
it is a good idea to start with young,
purebred animals four months old.
Usually, two females (does) and one male (a buck)
of the same breed
make a good beginnning
Use this manual.
It has been written for you.
It gives information
you need.
It tells you where to get more information.
There is a glossary of rabbit terms
that can help you with
definitions of words you may not already know.
There are suggestions for exhibits.
But be sure to check with your Extension Office
to make sure your exhibit
meets your own county’s requirements.
Keep this manual as a reference.
It is the manual
for all divisions of the rabbit project
so plan to use it from year to year.

A message to Parents

Raising and marketing rabbits

is an ideal project for young people,
especially those in urban areas
and on small farms where space may be limited.
A rabbit project
lets young people experience
the satisfaction of owning
a fine, purebred animal
without spending too much money.
In this project your son or daughter can
learn the principles of nutrition,
care,grooming, breeding
and showing rabbits.
All that is needed is a place
to house rabbits, feed to keep them growing,
a willingness to make the project
a success and - most important of all -
your help as a parent.
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 3

Acknowledgement
You are going to like raising rabbits if you like
working with animals. Rabbits are small and clean.
Appreciation is expressed to the follwing
They respond to kind treatment. They are easy to work
people for their assistance in developing and
with and are fun to watch. Raising them can even be a
way to make money. reviewing this publication: numerous 4-H
parents and Indiana rabbit breeders.
It is not difficult to raise rabbits successfully. But it Appreciation is also extended to the authors of
cannot be left to chance either. It requires careful the Color ado 4-H Rabbit Project manual, the
selection, good equipment, careful sanitation and Texas Rabbit Manual for 4-H’ers and the
planned mating. California 4-H Club Rabbit Project Manual.
These publications provided valuable
Visit a few good rabbitries and talk to the men and information and assistance in the preparation of
women who operate them. Look over the equipment
this manual
and pay very close attention to the arrangements.

Zoologists classify rabbits as mammals. They are in

the order of Lagomorpha which includes rabbits and
hares. Some breeds have many varieties based on
color differences and ranging in mature size from 2½
to 16 pounds. The most popular breeds for meat and
fur production are the New Zealand, Champagne
D'Argent, Californian, American Chinchilla,
Checkered Giant, Flemish Giant and Rex. If you are
raising rabbits as a hobby, you might like the Dutch
and English Spot because of their variety of colors and
attractive markings.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 4

How to Chose a Breed of Rabbits

Successful rabbit raising begins with purebred stock.
Generally, you should choose a breed of rabbit that
you like from the stock that is available from breeders
in your county or neighborhood. It is important to get
your rabbits from a good rabbit breeder. The American
Rabbit Breeders Association (A.R.B.A.) publications
have names of breeders. If there is one close to you,
plan to visit the farm and select your stock. If this is
not possible, write to one.

Do not try to buy the best show specimens from

breeders unless you have a lot of money to spend.
Instead, get good specimens from an established and
proven bloodline.
Perfection." For more information about this, write
It is up to you to decide how many rabbits to buy. A.R.B.A., P.O. Box 426, 1925 South Main,
However, if you plan to exhibit your rabbits in a 4-H- Bloomington, Illinois 61701.
Rabbit Show, you should begin with a trio (two does
and a buck) of younger animals. Be sure to get them Whether you are raising rabbits for show, for market
all from the same proven bloodline. If you do not plan or for fun, the principles of feeding, breeding and
to exhibit, you might decide to start with a good, bred management are similar for all breeds. However, when
doe and begin to build from her offspring. you exhibit rabbits on the show table, the judge may
consider slightly different points of emphasis for each
When you choose your rabbits, consider these things: breed when he makes his placings. Therefore, after
• Select and buy the best doe (female rabbit) or does you choose a breed, it is a good idea to become
possible. familiar with the standards for that particular breed.
Then you can follow a breeding program that will
• Select and buy the best buck (male rabbit) possible. produce the proper type of rabbit for the respective
breed.
• Select the does and buck from a rabbitry that has a
reputation for selling top quality rabbits, that practices Study the show rules, regulations and classifications
good sanitation and that keeps production records. carefully before taking a rabbit to show. Show rules
place strict requirements on weight, color, size and age
• Select your stock from a litter of rabbits that are the of rabbits entered. Although pedigrees are not usually
same size. Also consider the number of rabbits in the required, good records make good rabbits even more
litter. valuable for show and meat production.

• Select rabbits that have the best pads on their feet Rabbits for Sale
and that have well-filled out loins, thighs and
shoulders with dense fur undercoats. If you are planning to sell your rabbits, find out which
kinds sell well in your market area before you select a
• Always select healthy, disease-free rabbits. breed of rabbits. Your market area may like small
fryers. In this case select a smaller breed that reaches
market condition quickly. Some of the best breeds for
Rabbits for Show
meat and fryer production are New Zealand,
If you are planning to show your rabbits, you need to Champagne D'Argent and Californian.
choose stock from the purebred parents of a breed
recognized by the A.R.B.A. in their "Standard of

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 5

Rabbit Breeds

Approximate
Mature
Weight (in Principal
Breed Color pounds) Uses Size
American Resembles the true chinchilla (Chinchilla laniger). 9-12 Show Medium
Chinchilla Meat
Fur
Californian White body with dark or black nose, ears, feet and tail. 8-10½ Show Medium
Meat
Champagne Dark slate blue undercolor; blue-white or silver surface 9-12 Show Medium
D’Argent color with a lot of long black guard hairs. Meat
Checkered White with black or blue spots on cheeks, sides of body 11 or over Show Meat Large
Giant and hindquarters; wide spine stripe; black or blue ears
and nose with black or blue circles around the eyes.
Dutch Black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel gray and gray; 3½ to 5½ Show Small
white saddle or band over the shoulder carrying down Laboratory
under the neck and over the front legs; white rear feet
(stops).
English Spot White body with black, blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel 5-8 Show Small
gray, lilac or gray spots; nose, ears and eye circles and Meat
cheek spots; spine stripe from base of ears to end of Laboratory
tail; side spots from base of ears to middle of
hindquarters.
Flemish Steel gray, light gray, sandy, black, blue, white and 13 or more Show Large
Giant fawn. No two colors allowed on solids. Meat
Netherland Selfs, shaded agouti, tan patterned and other varieties. 2½ Laboratory Small
Dwarf Show
New Zealand White, red or black. 10-12 (does) Show Medium
9-11 (bucks) Meat
Fur
Laboratory
Polish White; ruby-red or blue eyes; black or chocolate. 3½ Show Small
Laboratory
Rex Black, blue, Californian, castor, chinchilla, chocolate, 7 or more Show Medium
lilac, lynx, opal, red, sable, seal, white. Meat
Fur
Satins Black, blue, chocolate, red, copper, chinchilla, 8-11 Show Medium
Californian, white and Siamese. Meat
Fur
Silver Black, blue, chocolate or sable, with silver-tipped guard 6½ to 9½ Show Small
Marten hairs. Fur
Meat

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 6

What to Look For

Once you have an idea about what breed you want,
it's time to think about two things: body build and
fur.

Look at Figure 1. Check to see where the

hindquarters of the rabbit are located. The
hindquarters are not just the hind legs, but the legs
and the loin up to the first rib on the forequarters. In
order to have good hindquarters, the rabbit must have
a wide loin section with well-rounded and full hips.
The forequarters should be full and have a good
thickness of meat over the shoulders.

Good fur is another thing to think about. According

to the fur standard, there are four points to check:
condition, density, texture and balance.

Condition

Look for a fur that is tight. You do not want a

molting rabbit. There should be no breaks in the fur,
no mats of fur and no stains. The guard hairs should
be supple and glossy. The fur should look alive and
brilliant.

Density

Look for a good thick coat of fur all over the back,
sides, chest and flanks.

Texture

The texture of the coat should not be harsh or

wire-like, nor do you want a silky coat or wooliness.
Look for fur coarse enough in guard hairs to offer
some resistance when you stroke the fur. Guard hairs
are heavier hairs that protrude above the undercoat
and protect it. The undercoat should be fine and soft.

Balance

Look for evenness and smoothness in rabbit fur. The

fur should be a good length, not too long and not too
short. A dense coat of short fur is better than a long
thin coat. A dense coat of long fur is better than a
short thin coat.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 7

All About Housing

Before you buy any rabbits, you need a place to • The ideal cage has wire sides, with the top and
house them - a rabbitry. The kind of building you front made of 14 gauge wire, 1 inch by 2 inches, or ½
need for this depends upon the location, the climate by ½ inch hardware cloth. The kind of wire you
and the money you have to spend. Whether you go choose depends mainly upon the price, availability of
into rabbits in a big or small way, plan for housing - materials and rabbit size.
hutches - and equipment that lets you care for your • There are many variations in cage sizes and each
rabbits with a minimum of manual labor. Care in may be used successfully. The size of the hutch
feeding, breeding and handling the rabbits, as well as generally depends upon the breed of rabbit that is
in cleaning the hutches and keeping the housing going to live there. Figure 2 shows a 3-hole hutch.
sanitary, is very important. Keep construction of This size is quite satisfactory for this project.
housing as simple as possible. Design housing so you Remember you must protect the entire outdoor cage
can carry out these tasks easily. by an allweather roof with an adequate overhanging
eave, 14 to 16 inches. Rabbits must be protected
Make sure the housing is designed to provide enough from dust, rain and snow.
fresh air for the rabbits. In hot weather housing needs • Figure 3 shows a suitable outdoor facility that you
to provide rabbits with shade and any cool breezes can make.
that may be available. In areas where there are strong
winds and cold weather, protect your rabbit hutches
by putting them in buildings that open to the south.
During stormy weather, use curtains or panels to
close off these buildings.

The equipment you need to raise rabbits can be very

inexpensive and constructed mostly from low cost
items found at home or easily available. You can
make an inexpensive two or three compartment hutch
out of wood with roofing materials and wire floors.
Do not use metal roofs because they conduct too
much heat. (The more experienced club member may Figure 2
want to buy or make all wire hutches to put in a Three-hole hutch built from 8' material. Use turn
draft-free building.) button and spring-loaded latches to fasten dors closed

Hutches and Cages

If you build a hutch for your rabbits, here are some

things to keep in mind:
• Construct a cage for the comfort of the rabbits.
Even though sunlight is an excellent disinfectant, do
not let it reach your rabbits because it bleaches out
fur color, except for all-white rabbits. (Bleached fur
will result in faults or a cut for poor fur color by the
judge at the time of showing.)
• The ideal cage has an all-wire floor. Use 14 gauge
wire, ½ inch by 1 inch, since it seems to contribute
least to sore hock problems. Fourteen gauge wire is Figure 3
strong enough to support a 12 to 14 pound mature Four-hole hutch built from 8' material.
doe and her litter in a 30 by 30 inch cage.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 8

Position the back and side panels of the hutch on the

inside of the 2 by 4 inch cage floor bottom so that
droppings and urine cannot accumulate in the
corners. See Figure 4.

• Use a full sheet of plywood, 4 by 8 feet, for the

roof. The back of the hutch should be one half of a
sheet of plywood, 2 by 8 feet. For convenience, the
cage floor should be 30 inches from the ground. Use
white rolled roofing material (90 pound weight) or
comparable shingles on the roof deck. Paint the sides
and back or cover them with suitable all-weather
material. Do not use metal roofing. It conducts too
much heat.

• During cold winter periods, attach panels of

inch tempered masonite or other suitable material
around the bottom of the hutch to close off the area
Figure 4 Cage floor for rabbits. Use 1/2" x 1", 14 guage to reduce drafts. Cold will not hurt rabbits if they are
wire 30" wide and 8" long.
kept dry and free from drafts.

• Locate your rabbit hutch with its back to the

prevailing winds and in the protection of trees. Trees
should also be available to provide shade because hot
weather can be a major problem for rabbits. If your
backyard is not well-fenced to keep out people and
animals, put a wire skirt around the bottom of your
hutch to keep playful children and pets out of the
manure. See Figure 5.

• Some breeders prefer the single hutch. Others build

hutches with two or three tiers, one above the other.
Each tier has compartments. The height of whoever
takes care of the rabbits is a factor in determining
how many tiers to use. Dropping boards should be
used under each tier.
Figure 5 Use 1" x 1" or 1" x 2", 14 or 16 guage wire to Here are diagrams of a low-cost, constructed rabbit
protect rabbits from dogs.
hutch. Almost all of the lumber is of short lengths. A
lot of scraps or odds and ends are used. The doors
and dividers are bread racks, old refrigerator shelves
or  inch welded wire. Small metal straps are used
• When you build semi-enclosed outdoor hutches, instead of hinges or hasps. The pen is designed to
use construction grade material 2 by 4 inch, 2 by 2 handle a doe and her young. After the young rabbits
inch, 1 by 6 inch and ½ inch exterior plywood. are eating on their own, the breeder can block the
nest box opening, clean the box and leave it in the
sun to dry. In the winter months, the box gives added
Note: Do not use paint on the inside of protection to the rabbit.
the hutch because the rabbits may
chew on it and get lead poisoning.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 9

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 12

Nest Boxes All About Feeding and Watering

• Rabbit raisers use many types of nest (kindling) Equipment.
boxes for baby rabbits. Among them are apple boxes Once you have your hutches, start thinking about
and nail kegs that have been modified. However, the what you need to feed and water your rabbits.
present trend is away from modified nest boxes to
those that can be bought or to kinds that are built at
home by the breeder. A good design takes into Feeders
consideration size and shape, warmth, ventilation and You may want to build your own feeders. However,
sanitation. remember that wooden feed hoppers are not
recommended because rabbits chew on them. All
• The size of the nest box may vary, depending upon metal feeders are better, either made from a can or
the breed you are raising. As a rule-of-thumb, purchased. The kind that you buy - gravity flow feed
provide a nest box about 10 inches high by 10 inches hoppers with small openings in the bottom - are best.
wide by 14 inches long for small breeds like the
Dutch. For larger breeds like the New Zealand • Any feeder - homemade or purchased should have
provide an area about 14 inches high by 12 inches a screened bottom or have many
inch holes in the
wide by 18 inches long. Remember, it is best to bottom to allow fines (very small food particles) to
provide a ramp as part of the box since it permits sift out. Accumulations of feed dust in the feeder
young rabbits to return more easily to the nest, may cause respiratory irritations leading to unhealthy
reducing mortality (death losses) during freezing rabbits with sinus ailments.
weather.
• Once you are experienced with rabbits, you may
• You can make nest boxes from wood. Or you can want to use self-feeders, mounted to the side of the
buy the throwaway kind. You can also buy all-metal cage about 2 inches above the floor. These reduce the
nest boxes with wooden floors. time needed for rabbits to feed and also reduce feed
wastage, especially with young rabbits. Young
• A nest box 18 inches long and 12 inches wide and rabbits tend to hop into the feeder when they eat and
at least 12 inches high is a size that is generally foul it with their droppings.
recommended. One end should be full height and the
other should have an opening at least 10 inches wide
and 6 to 8 inches from the floor. Through this Water Containers
opening the doe enters and leaves the box. You can Automatic-type watering systems are best. In the
tack a board across the back of the box to form a top winter you must protect them from freezing by using
and something to hold on to when you take the box inside water line heat tape. Aluminum pans or crocks
out of the hutch. If you want a lid over the entire box are probably best for year round use if you have a
in very cold weather, be sure to leave some open very small rabbit herd.
space in the back for ventilation and add three inches
to the height of the box.

• Place the box so that the opening is not facing the

front of the hutch. It is best to put it beside the back
wall. In cold weather, place a piece of good
insulation board under the nest box. This protects the
litter against chilling when the rabbits burrow down
to the floor of the box.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 13

How to Care For Rabbits A good rabbit ration must supply the proper amounts
of protein, energy, minerals and vitamins. Almost all
Once you have hutches and rabbits, the next step is feeds contain each of these nutrients. Some feeds,
the care of the animals. This is one of the more however, are high in one nutrient and low in another.
important phases of successful rabbit breeding. When For example, corn is high in energy and low in
the showman talks about condition, it usually reflects protein, while soybean oil meal is high in protein and
just one thing - Care. low in energy. The ideal ration is the one that
supplies the proper balance and amount of each
nutrent at a minimum cost.
Handling

Handle rabbits of different ages in different ways. Remember these things when you are feeding your
Hold small rabbits by the loin. Hold older rabbits by rabbits:
grasping a fold of the skin over the shoulder, placing
your other hand under the rump. When you carry a • You can feed good, clean, cured, leafy hay to
rabbit, it is best to support him in your arm. See rabbits daily.

• Do not feed young rabbits cabbage or lettuce. It

Figure 6
causes diarrhea and/or scours.

• Use about four ounces of a feed with at least 16

percent protein each day to keep rabbits in good
shape.

• A doe with a litter needs all the feed she will eat.

• You can lower feed costs by feeding some good,

clean hay and oats.

• Use some suitable sized container to measure your

feed.

• You should get a booklet on feeding rabbits from

one or more feed companies. They have good
suggestions on what to feed rabbits at different
weights and ages. These books tell about different
rations and their proper uses.

A regular feeding schedule is important. Try to feed

Figure 6. at about the same hour each day. Some breeders feed
NOTE: Do not lift the rabbit by the ears only. night and morning; others feed just the does with
litters in the morning and then feed all rabbits,
Feeding including the does with litters, at night.

You must feed your rabbits properly to get top

returns from them. Rabbits need a wellbalanced
ration that meets their nutritional needs and tastes
good. They are herbivorous which means they like to
eat plant material. Rabbits do not like feeds that
contain animal products.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 14

Salt and Water All About Reproduction

Commercially prepared feed pellets contain salt.
Mating
However, if you prepare your own ration, you need
to provide salt in a free choice form. You can do this You can breed most rabbits when they reach 6 or 7
by supplying each hutch with a salt spool that your months. You must separate and individually house
rabbit can lick any time he wants. If you use salt rabbits at least 18 days before breeding. Since the
spools, be sure to keep them away from the cage doe objects to having another rabbit in her hutch,
wiring because the salt can cause rusting. take her to the buck's hutch. Usually mating occurs
immediately, after which the buck falls over on his
Have fresh, clean water in front of your rabbits at all side. Return the doe to her hutch immediately. Five
times. Clean all water bowls every day. Rabbits that to eight hours later, breed the doe a second time to
eat dry rations need a lot of water. During the winter, insure maximum litter size.
give rabbits water twice a day. During warm weather,
a doe and her litter will drink about one gallon of One of the best symptoms that the doe is bred is her
water each day. Water your rabbits several times a continual moving of the bedding on her hutch floor,
day during the summer. Crocks and secured coffee especially clawing it from the back corners of the
cans make good water containers. hutch.

Breeding Chart

Breed Pre-JR. Seniors

In Meat Pen Juniors 6-8
Jan. April June-July Aug.-Sept. Oct.
Feb. May July-Aug. Sept.-Oct. Nov.
Mar. June Aug.-Sept. Oct.-Nov. Dec.
April July Sept.-Oct. Nov.-Dec. Jan.
May Aug. Oct.-Nov. Dec.-Jan. Feb.
June Sept. Nov.-Dec. Jan.-Feb. March
July Oct. Dec.-Jan. Feb.-Mar. April
Aug. Nov. Jan.-Feb. Mar.-Apr. May
Sept. Dec. Feb.-Mar. April-May June
Oct. Jan. Mar.-Apr. May-June July
Nov. Feb. Apr.-May June-July Aug.
Dec. Mar. May-June June-July Sept.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 15

Check the nest daily and remove any dead. Only the
person caring for the rabbits should check the nest.
Otherwise, the odor of a strange hand in her nest may
upset the doe and she may not pay proper attention to
the babies. If this happens, some of the babies may
die.

The day the doe kindles, cut her feed down to almost
nothing. Gradually return to the regular amount of
feed by the third day. Then, at the end of the first
The normal length of gestation (pregnancy) for a doe week, begin increasing her feed slightly until you
is 31 days. Occasionally, a doe does not become double her regular ration. If she begins getting too
bred, even though it seemed that a normal mating thin, give her slightly more, but be careful. Always
occurred. Therefore, 18 days after mating, return the keep clean, fresh water in front of a doe with a litter.
doe to the buck for "testing." If she is pregnant, she During the winter months it is a good idea to use
will run from the buck and actively resist him. lukewarm water - just lukewarm, not warmer.
Rabbits drink more water when it is lukewarm than
Kindling they do when it is ice cold. This helps produce more
milk for nursing the litter.
The birth process in rabbits is called "kindling." The
care of the doe at this time is important. The young When you check the litter, remove the nest box from
are usually born 30 to 34 days after the mating of the the hutch so that the doe cannot see you looking at
buck and the doe. the babies. Be sure not to handle other rabbits
immediately before handling these babies. If there
About three days before kindling time, the doe may are more than five or six babies, you need to do some
begin to carry straw in her mouth. This is a good culling. If there are some good show specimens, it is
sign. Give her a nest box immediately. Never leave wise to cut the litter to four or five babies. Culling
the nest box out of the hutch later than the third day gives the remaining rabbits an extra start. And you
before the doe is to kindle. have unusually nice development by the time you
show them.
In fact, plan to put the nest box in the hutch on the
27th day after breeding. If the doe does not give Do not be too disappointed if you have a litter with
birth, remove the box on the 34th day and rebreed no outstanding specimen. The very best parents
her. If the doe does not become bred the second time, sometimes produce just a plain "meat litter."
think about disposing of her. However, keep this in mind when you make your
next mating.
When you put the nest box in the hutch, be sure it After checking the litter, return the nest box to the
has a small amount of straw pressed in the bottom. hutch
Place a large handful of good, clean straw in the
hutch. The doe will carry this material into the nest Weaning
box and prepare her nest. It is best to let her handle
the birth as much as possible. After the babies are Leave the doe in the hutch where she kindled until
born, the doe will cover the nest with fur. the babies are coming out of the nest box regularly. If
she refuses to go into the nest box after you have
During kindling, the doe is usually thirstier than moved it out to check the litter, don't worry. The
usual. She should have a good supply of water. If a babies will come to the doe for nursing. It is better to
doe does not have enough water at this time, she may leave them unmolested until they are old enough to
even kill her babies or desert them soon after birth. wean. If there is an outstanding baby in the litter,
leave it in the original hutch as long as possible, even
after you have weaned the rest.

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 16

Do not wean the litter until the babies are at least Tattooing
eight weeks old. Some people prefer to breed the doe
on the fifty-sixth day after kindling and then leave It is absolutely essential that you tattoo any rabbits
her with the litter another week. If you do this, you you are raising. Tattooing is the acceptable method
can be sure that the doe has stopped her milk supply, for keeping accurate breeding information. Keep
thus preventing caked nipples. your herd book up-to-date and record all
identification marks of the offspring against the
If you separate the doe from the litter without putting actual sire and dam. Be accurate and truthful with all
the babies in individual hutches immediately, be sure pedigree records.
it is the doe you move. Babies go longer without Place the permanent identification tattoo mark in the
fighting if they stay in their original hutch than if you left ear of the young rabbit. At the same time, make
move them to new quarters. You can seldom leave out pedigrees for all you plan to keep. Do this while
bucks together more than two months if the mother is the bunnies are still with their mothers.
not with them. Occasionally two or three does will The rabbit's right ear is reserved for use by an official
get along in a large hutch until they are almost six A.R.B.A. registrar who places a permanent tattoo
months old, but don't count on it. number in the right ear if the individual rabbit merits
registry. Merit is determined in accordance with the
Re-breeding the Doe A.R.B.A. Standard of Perfection for rabbits,
published by the American Rabbit Breeders
Success in the rabbit business requires that the doe Association, Inc.
not only produce large litters of rapid gaining rabbits When tattooing a rabbit, you can hold it on a training
but that she produce four to five litters a year. Most table. However, the rabbit will struggle to get away.
rabbit raisers re-breed the doe 56 days (eight weeks) It is best to keep the rabbit quiet by using a box
after kindling. especially designed to hold rabbits. In this kind of
box, the compartment for the rabbit is adjustable and
holds rabbits of various sizes. See Figure 7.

Figure 7
Vertical section of box for restraining a rabbit for tattoing. The spring-type holders tacked to the lower side of a movable floor
compress the rabbit toward the top of the box. A movable cross partition holds the rabbit toward the front. Blocks of wood on
eac side hold the rabbit’s head in the center of the hole at the top.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 17

How to Have Healthy Rabbits

Rabbits are healthy normally. A good experience
with rabbits depends upon their continued good
health. Disease is often the reason a rabbit enterprise
fails. Infectious disease results from either of two
causes or sometimes a combination of both.

• A large invasion of disease organisms greater than

the animal can fight off. These include mites,
bacteria and viruses.

• A decrease in the ability of the animal to fight off

invading disease organisms.

To prevent the buildup of large numbers of disease

organisms, practice proper sanitation. Clean hutches,
feeding dishes and nest boxes thoroughly after you
wean each litter. Use hot, soapy water and a scrub
brush. Periodically brush a household bleach or
disinfectant on the inside of the wooden hutches.
Raising the Young Guard against the introduction of disease into a herd,
The objective of successful rabbit production is to especially when you buy new animals. It is a good
raise a litter that averages about 4 pounds per rabbit idea to have an extra hutch where you can isolate
(3 to 3½ pounds for smaller breeds such as the new animals from the remainder of the herd until you
Dutch) at the weaning age of 8 weeks. Newborn are certain that they are free from disease.
rabbits grow on their mother's milk alone for about
the first three weeks. Then, in order for the rabbits to Disease can also come from using old hutches or nest
grow rapidly, they must have access to feed and boxes discarded by breeders who are no longer
water at all times when they leave the nest box and raising rabbits. It is better not to use equipment from
start to feed with their mothers. This happens at such sources.
about three weeks, until the time you market them.
Because rabbits inherit growth and carcass muscling Young rabbits are more susceptible than mature
characteristics, it is important to select good parent rabbits to disease caused by environmental stress.
stock if you are to get maximum profit from the sale Rabbits can tolerate low temperatures and excessive
of your rabbits. cold, but wet and drafty conditions can weaken their
resistance to disease organisms.
If you plan to sell any of these young rabbits, be sure
to check each animal carefully and represent him
truthfully to your prospective buyer. Do not sell
rabbits until they are at least two months old. Then
the transfer from your rabbitry to that of the new
owner is likely to be more successful. Always
indicate the kind of feed you use and your feeding
program so that if it is not the same as the new
owner's he can make the change gradually.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 18

Place hutches where cold rains will not blow in,

chilling the rabbits. Face them south for the best
protection. Baby rabbits may develop infected eyes if
they are exposed to rain. Often an eye ointment that
contains an antibiotic used in human eye treatment
works satisfactorily.

It seldom pays to treat disease in rabbits. It is better

to sacrifice a sick animal and prevent infection of the
entire herd than to attempt lengthy or costly
treatment. However, when signs of continued illness
develop, you may want to check with your local
veterinarian.

Careful Sanitation

One of the best ways to protect against disease and

parasites is to follow a careful sanitation program. It
takes less money to prevent an outbreak of disease
than to try to get rid of disease once it is in the
rabbitry.

These simple rules of sanitation help keep the herd

free from disease and infection:

• Never loan bucks to other rabbit breeders.

• Isolate new rabbits or those returning from shows.

• Quickly get rid of rabbits that die. If you suspect

disease, disinfect all equipment thoroughly. Burn the
droppings and bedding of sick animals.

• Clean cages regularly and keep droppings and

moisture from collecting.

• Disinfect feed and water bowls regularly.

• When loose hair on cages and other equipment

becomes a problem, burn the hair off with a gas
torch. Move the flame quickly so that the wire will
not get red hot. This rapid burning of hair does not
kill the disease organisms, so you also need to
sanitize the equipment. Remove any rabbits before
burning.

• Always make sure that the nest box is as clean as

possible. After scrubbing it with soap and water,
disinfect it and set it in the sun to dry.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 19

RABBIT DISEASES
Cause and Control

Disease Cause Symptoms Prevention Treatment*

Abscesses Bacterial infection Enlargements under skin near jaw. Minimize fighting. Eliminate sharp Clip the fur around the
Can occur on other parts of body objects that can injure the rabbit. abscesses, then lance and
where there are wounds or scratches. remove the pus. Disinfect
with peroxide and use an
approved antibiotic
ointment or powder to
promote healing.

Caked Milk production is in One or more of the mammary glands Reduce ration by one-half the day the Relieve some congestion by
Mammary excess of utilization. may become swollen, hot and firm. doe kindles and gradually increase full partial milking. Massage
Gland Too few young or the Often mistaken for mastitis. feed in 7 days. gland with an anti-
young are not nursing. inflammatory ointment

Coccidiosis Five different species Affects primarily young rabbits. In Keep pens clean and prevent fecal Sulfaquinoxaline in feed or
of protozoa (one celled severe cases, symptoms are diarrhea, contamination of feed and water. Use drinking water continuously
animals) that can loss of flesh, pot belly, loss of wire floor pens. for 2 weeks.
injure the bile ducts, appetite, rough fur coat. Liver may be
intestines or cecum. white spotted and enlarged and there
may be small hemorrhages in the
intestines.

Conjuctivitis Inflammation of eye Excessive tear formation and fluid Minimize sources (dust, dirt) of Use a commercial
“Weepy Eye” lid. Can result from runs down cheek. Rabbit rubs eyes irritation. Remove chronically affected eyewashing product to
irritation by dust, with it front feet which further rabbits. remove dust, dirt or other
sprays, fumes or by aggravates the condition. Rabbits with foreign object. If
bacterial infection. snuffles frequently have “weepy eye”. inflammation persists, an
opthalmic ointment
containing anitbiotics may
be helpful.

Ear Canker Ear mite Scabs or a crust start forming at base Do not let unaffected rabbits in Use a cotton swab to apply
of inner ear. Mites cause considerable contact with rabbits that have ear mineral , vegetable or olive
irritation and rabbit will shake its head canker. oil over all visible crust.
and try to scratch ears with hind feet. Usually one or two
treatments is sufficient.

Enteritis: Likely caused by A watery diarrhea may be only Develop a program to control Keep rabbits confortable
Diarrhea coccidiosis or other symptom. coccidiosis. Do not feed “greens” to and encourage feed
intestinal rabbits. consumption. A medicated
inflammation. In or vitamin fortified feed
young rabbit excessive may be helpful.
“greens” will cause
diarrhea.

Muciod Thought to result from Characterized by sub-normal body Prevent or reduce stress factors and No successful trestment
an irritant, a toxin or temperature, loss of appetite, have strict sanitation of hutches, known, but mortality may
other stress factors depression, rough fur coat, tooth feeding and watering equipment. be slighlty reduced by
such as dietary grinding, dehydration, bloated feeding a medicated or
changes, antibiotics abdomoen and diarrhea containing vitamin fortified feed.
and travel stresses. mucus material. Eliminate all afftected
Not thought to be rabbits, and purchase
contagious. breeding stock that are free
of the disease.

Eye Infection Several types of The eyes of baby rabbits may stick Prevent cold drafts and other stress Apply an antibacterial
bacteria shut and pus around the eyes may be conditions. opthalmic eye ointment.
noticed.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 20

Fur Block “Hair Rabbits ingests a large Rabbit will sporadically eat small Fur block is noted more often in An oral dose of ½ oz.
Ball” amount of its own hair amounts of feed. A firm mass can be Angora rabbits. Mineral oil may be
or that from another palpated in the stomach. effective. If the fur block is
rabbit in a short period too large, surgical removal
of time. is necessary.

Fungus Fungus A dry scaly skin (dandruff) on the Prevent contact with affected rabbits. Apply tolnaftate to affected
Infection shoulders and back. area. Other medications are
available.

Heat Excessively high Increased respiration rate (panting), Provide shade, adequate air Rabbits suffering from heat
Exhaustion temperatures (above prostration, and excessive saliva movement, plenty of cool water on a exhaustion can be
85
F) and high discharge. Pregnant does and young in hot day. Wet burlap in cage will aid in immersed in lukewarm
humidity (above the next box are most susceptible. cooling. water to reduce body
70%), obesity, poor temperature to the normal
ventilation, 101-104
F. Apply a cool
insufficient water and compress to the ears.
crowding.

Hutch Burn Usually associated Usually a brownish crust covers the Do not allow fecal material to Clean affected skin with a
with wet and dirty infected areas and a bleeding exudate accumulate in the hutch. germicidal soap and keep
hutches. Urine and may be seen. the area clean.
fecal material cause
the skin to become
irritated and infected.

Ketosis Obesity, large litter, Usually occurs just before or just after Prevent young does from getting too Obesity can be prevented by
lack of excercise. kindling. Does go off feed and will not fat and make sure the does are eating limiting feed to 4 to 6 oz.
eat. at kindling time. Daily for does.

Mastitis “Blue A bacterial infection The mammary gland will become red Reduce any chance of injury to Penicillin is effective
Breast” in the mammary gland in color, dwollen, tender and dark blue mammary gland as the does enters the against staphytococcus or
caused by an injury streaks may appear. nest box. Do not transfer the young to streptococcus or organisms.
from nest box, cage or another lactating doe.
a bite from nursing
young.

Malocclusion An inheritaed Lower teeth protrude and upper teeth Do not use rabbits with “buck teeth” Teeth on young rabbits can
“Buck Teeth” condition curve into mouth. for breeding purposes. be trimmed until they reach
characterized by slaughter weight.
excessive growth of
the front teeth.

Pasteurellosis A chronic upper Typical early sign are a nasal Quarantine all new rabbits for a 3 Tetracycline in feed may be
“Snuffles” respiratory ailment discharge, watery eyes, head shaking, week period. Cull rabbits that show effective in an
cause by bacterail sneezing or rattling noise in breathing continuous chronic symptoms of the uncomplicated case. For
infection. and a loss of weight. Continual disease. Reduce stress factors and accurate treatment, the
infection may cause rabbits to become have good management and sanitation organism needs to be
sterile. practices. cultured and identified.

Pneumonia A bacteria or virus Elevated temperature, labored Control of “Snuffles” reduces chances Treatment may vary
infection usually breathing, nasal discharge and loss of of pneumonia. Eliminate drafts and depending upon the
associted with other appetite are symptoms. wet conditions. causative agent. A broad
respiratory diseases or spectrum antibiotic may be
stress factors such as helpful.
damp, drafty and
unsanitary hutches.

Ringworm A fungus finection Loss of hair in circular patches. A Do not allow infected rabbit in contact Clip the fur around affected
that can appear on any yellowish crust forms and sloughs off with other rabbits. Wear gloves when area and treat with
part of the body but in about 3 weeks. If infection goes handling the infected rabbit. tolnaftate. Other
most often will occur untreated, considerable scratching will medications are available.
on the head. This occur.
fungus infection can
be transmitted to
humans.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 21

Salmonellosis Several members of General symptoms are diarrhea, loss Good husbandry practices and a Tetracycline in the feed may
“Scours” the Salmonella group of weight, conjunctivities, and rapid quaratine of new rabbits. be effective.
of bacteria can affect breathing.
rabbits.

Skin Mange An infestation of There will be some loss of hair, scaly Infected rabbits should be separated Dust with an insecticide
mites that burrow skin and intense itching and and treated. The premises should be approved for the purpose.
through the skin and scratching. disinfected. Treatment should be
cause considerable repeated in 7 days.
irritation. Mange
mites that affect dogs
and cats infect rabbits.

Sore Hocks A bruised or infected Scabs usally appear in the bottom of Do no let wet litter and manure Wash the hock with a
area on the the rear feet. Pad and toes of the front accumulate. Eliminate sharp objects germicidal soap and apply
undersurface of the feet may become infected. Nervous on the floor. an antiseptic sich as tincture
hock joint. Related and heavy rabbits are more susceptible of iodine.
stress factors are a to the sore hock condition.
dirty hutch, rough
surfaces on the floor,
or a floor constructed
with the wrong size
wiregrid.

Spirochetosis Infection by a Blisters or scabs occur on the sex Always check the breeders before Injection of penicillin is the
“Vent Disease” spirochete and can be glands. mating. Isolate all new rabbits. best treatment. Do not breed
transmitted by mating. until all lesions disappear.

Tyzzers A bacterial infection The acute form results with diarrhea, The best preventative measures are Treatment wih antibiotics is
Disease usually associated dehydration and death within 48 clean stock and good husbandry not very effective.
with stress conditions hours. practices.
and poor sanitation.

Warbles The growth of the Warbles can be observed as Screen the area to keep the botfly Remove the larvae without
botfly larvae under the enlargments under the skin with a away from the rabbit. crushing it. Clean the
skin. small hole in the center. The condition wound with a germicial
is painful and the rabbit may lick the soap or apply an antibiotic
area. powder or ointment to
prevent infection.

*Ask your local veterinarian for dosage levels when using antibiotics and for names of antibiotic
powders and ointments.

**When antibiotics are a part of the treament program, a withdrawal period of 10 days must be
allowed before the animal is slaughtered for food.

**This information on diseases and treatment was reviewed by Dr. David J. Black, University of Tennessee,
College of Veterinary Medicine; and Dr. T. J. Lane, University of Florida College of Veterinary Medicine.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 22

How to Keep Records

Records are an important part of raising rabbits.
Records represent the "backbone" of your rabbitry.
They keep things in order, tell how your rabbits are
doing and can help make your business profitable.
Keep your records up-todate and accurate.

Good records include the following:

• Beginning inventory.

• Total operating expenses.

• Total marketing receipts.

• Closing inventory and a profit or loss financial

summary statement at the close of the project or at
year's end.

• Doe and buck performance records, including

growth records of litters at:
a) Four weeks of age - individually weigh all
rabbits. The average is a good indication of the
lactating ability of the doe.
b) Eight weeks of age - individually weigh all
rabbits. Make first selections for herd
replacements at this time. For commercial
meat-type rabbits, all animals should be ready for
fryer marketing.

• Herd book.
a) Complete pedigree of each rabbit.
b) Performance record on service of bucks.

• Show record.
a) Record the shows entered by date and place.
b) Record information on classes entered,
number in competition and awards received.

You can get record forms, free of charge, from many

commercial rabbit feed companies. Write to the
A.R.B.A. for additional information on keeping a
herd book and show record.

The Florida 4-H Rabbit Record, publication

4HRAR01, goes with this manual. Fill it out
regularly and turn it in to your 4-H club leader at fair
time. You can get a copy of the 4-H Rabbit Record at
your County Extension Office.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 23

Kinds of Production
You may want to think about raising pedigreed
rabbits as you get experience or as you want to get a
start in this business. To get pedigree forms, contact
your local rabbit feed dealer, your 4-H Rabbit project
leader or the A.R.B.A. Good pedigrees help to sell
stock.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 24

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 25

Suggested Procedures for Rabbit Shows at • When the judge places the rabbits, he orders the
Fairs last place animal off the table first. The first place
winner stays on the table until last.
If you want to put competition into your 4-H rabbit Example: There are five New Zealand White senior
raising program, both county and state fairs can bucks in the show and their ear numbers are - A-1,
provide you with a good opportunity to experience B-2, C-3, D-4 and E-5. After the judge decides how
competition and learn more about showing your to place them, he says A-1 is fifth, then gives
rabbits. comments on the rabbits. In this way the owner
learns exactly what is wrong with the rabbit,
Here are suggested procedures for showing. information which will help in culling future litters.
• When the show superintendent decides which This also gives the owner a better guide to go by
breed to judge first, the judge will judge each variety when adding to his original stock. When the judge
(color) within each breed separately. says B-2 is fourth. D-4 is third and E-5 is first, he
Example: If he starts with the New Zealands, he gives comments on each rabbit as he places it.
judges the whites first, then the reds and then the Rabbits are removed from the judging table after the
blacks. judge completes his comments on that rabbit.
• Within each color, he judges the separate classes. It is a good idea to show your 4-H rabbits in other
Example: He starts with senior bucks, then senior shows sanctioned under A.R.B.A. rules to gain
does; 6-8 bucks, then 6-8 does (if the 6-8 months experience and knowledge. Rabbits shown at county
applies to the breed); junior bucks, then junior does; and state fairs should be judged only by licensed
and finally pre-junior bucks and pre-junior does (if A.R.B.A. judges, registrars or knowledgeable
applicable). rabbit breeders.
• The judge then determines best of variety from
rabbits within the separate classes. This is done by Preparing Rabbits for Show
placing all of the first place winners in each class, in
the same variety, on the judging table. Talk to older 4-H'ers, junior leaders and your 4-H
Example: In New Zealand Whites, the judge saves rabbit leader about how to prepare your rabbits for
the first place winner in the class of senior bucks, showing at county and state fairs.
senior does, 6-8 bucks, 6-8 does, junior bucks and
junior does (pre-junior rabbits are not eligible for Cleanliness is very important in the appearance of a
placement). If each class has been filled, he has six rabbit. If you keep clean hutches and give good daily
rabbits from which to choose a best of variety and the care, you will have clean rabbits when it is show
best opposite sex in that variety. time. To remove loose hair, use a soft brush or your
• The judge follows the procedure outlined above for moistened hands. Remove any hutch stains on the
each of the other varieties within a breed. feet with dry cornstarch.
Example: To continue judging the New Zealands, he
would next judge the reds followed by the blacks, In some county and state rabbit shows, rabbits are
selecting the best of variety and best opposite sex of expected to have a pedigree. In other shows this is
each variety. not a requirement. The A.R.B.A. registration number
• Then he judges all first place rabbits for each must be in the rabbit's right ear. The owner's private
variety for the Champion or Best of Breed and registration number is in the left ear.
Reserve Champion or Best Opposite Sex of the
breed. Regardless of the kind of show, you must be sure you
Example: In the New Zealands, the Best of Breed or have the correct sex for the class into which you put
Champion could be a white buck and Best Opposite your rabbit. Check with your leader or other
Sex or Reserve Champion may be a red doe. experienced rabbit raisers on how to determine the
• All rabbits to be shown are required to have a correct sex.
tattoo number in their left ear. The numbers are what
the judge calls off when he places the rabbits.

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 26

Smaple 4-H Rabbit Score Card Glossary of Show Room Classes

COOP. NO EAR NO. Small Breeds
ENTRY NO. FUR CLASS
BREED and VARIETY Junior Bucks and Does - under six moths of age
CLASS and SEX
NO. IN CLASS AWARD Senior Bucks and Does - over six months of age.

VERY
GOOD
GOOD FAIR POOR Intermediate and Giant Breeds
HEAD
EARS Junior Bucks and Does - under six months of age
BONE (weight limit on some breeds)
TYPE:
BALANCE
SHOULDERS
6-8 Months - intermediate six to eight months of age
BACK (weight limit on some breeds)
LOIN
HIPS
Senior Bucks and Does - eight months of age and
FLESH CONDITION
COLOR:
over
SURFACE
RING DEFINITION Pre-Junior Bucksand Does - three months old or
UNDERCOLOR under (weight limit by breed)
BELLY COLOR
TICKING
CONTRAST For Additional Information
FUR:
TEXTURE
For more information about raising rabbits, write to:
DENSITY
LENGTH
CONDITION American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc.
SHEEN 1925 South Main Street
MARKINGS:
BLAZE
P.O. Box 426
SADDLE Bloomington, Illinois 61701
UNDERCUT
STOPS
BUTTERFLY
EYE CIRCLES
CHEEK SPOTS
EARS
SPINE
PATTERN
BALANCE

LOSES TO
ON
REMARKS:

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 27

Rabbit Show Standards General Disqualifications - All Breeds

A.R.B.A. Standard of Perfection
(Disqualification - One or more permanent defects,
General Faults - All Breeds deformities or blemishes which renders an animal
unfit to win an award in competition or from taking
Specimen in moult or otherwise out of condition part in an exhibition.)
(but not diseased).
Any of the following ailments: Snuffles, tumor,
Hutch stains. rupture, blindness in one or both eyes, lop ears
(except in lop-eared varieties), ears torn or ears with
Broken toe nails. any portion missing.
Off-colored eyes, wall eyes, moon eyes,
Stray white hairs in colored fur. unmatched eyes, spots or specks in the iris.
Wolf or "buck" teeth, malocclusion, broken or
Double dewlaps. missing teeth.
Crooked feet or legs, bowed legs, severe cow
Poor tail carriage - one that is not permanently hocks, deformed bones.
set on either side. Foreign colored spots in solid or self varieties or
marked varieties when specifically noted in breed
Poor ear carriage. standard, dying, plucking, or trimming. Any faking
designed to alter the natural condition or appearance.
Poor eye color. Wry tail (permanently set to either side), screw
tail, bob tail (shortened so as to be conspicuously out
Flabby or over-fat, thin and extremely poor in of proportion), broken tail permanently out of line.
flesh. Dew laps in the following breeds: Himalayan,
Netherland Dwarf, Polish, Tans, Silvers.
General Eliminations - All Breeds Bucks not showing both testicles in normal
condition.
(Eliminations are presumed to be temporary in White toe nail or toe nails to disqualify in all
nature and curable; nevertheless, they are cause for solid colored breeds, including Himalayan and
elimination ftom competition in a show - or from Californians. A toe nail or toe nails merely showing
registration until the ailment is cured or corrected.) the pinky cast reflected by its blood vessel, is to be
considered as a white toe nail(s). A light colored toe
Any of the following are cause for elimination: nail is one that does not carry the full coloring called
Colds, ear canker, slobbers, pot belly, does heavy for by its bred standard. To be considered a light toe
with young, sore hocks (showing infection - not nail, it must carry at least some of the color pigment
merely bare), vent disease, abscesses, sore eyes, called for by its breed standard and must match the
running eyes, if severe or conspicuous. color of the nails on that and the corresponding foot.
Mange, or a scurvy condition with large flakes Colored toenails disqualify in any rabbit whose
resembling dandruff or scale at the roots of the fur; foot color is white like New Zealand White, Dutch,
fungus growth or mites causing scabby condition. Checkered Giant, White Polish, White Rex.
Overweight or underweight to eliminate from Absence of toe nail or nails, including dew claw
regular class but animal may compete in fur classes if nail, on all breeds.
entered. A rabbit eliminated from its class for being
the wrong sex for the class may compete in fur
classes, if entered.
Illegible permanent ear marking.

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 28

Suggest Exhibits
These are suggested requirements for the county • Learn how to pedigree a rabbit.
4-H Rabbit Project. They are general enough so that
• Improve your equipment.
they may be adapted for all ages of 4-Hers in each
county. Be sure to check with your County • Raise young rabbits with your rabbits from the
Extension Office for the exact rules for your First Year. Breed so that the litters will be born in
county's 4-H rabbit program. early spring - April or May.
• Keep two does and one buck for the third year
Suggested First Year in Rabbits - Fancy or project.
Commercial
• Begin this year's record with the closing inventory
• Help construct hutches for your rabbits. of the year before.
• Obtain feeding and watering bowls • Exhibit original rabbits and a junior buck and/or
junior doe from your litter (Also 6/8 buck and doe if
• Study and learn the parts of a rabbit.
applicable.)
• Study breeding and management practices.
• Study the "Standard of Perfection" for your breed. Suggested Third Year in Rabbits
• Learn the way to handle and carry rabbits properly.
• Use the two does and one buck saved from the
• Purchase a minimum of one buck and two does, Second Year.
making sure they are purebred rabbits. It is
• Improve upon everything done for the Second
recommended that the rabbits be at least four months
Year.
old, but not over one year of age.*
• Plan a breeding program so you can raise your own
• Feed a good recommended rabbit pellet.
rabbits and/or purchase additional rabbits to add to or
• Feed and water rabbits daily. improve your breed. Also, consider the alternatives
of adding a second breed of rabbits of your choice to
• Wash water bowl daily.
improve and expand your 4-H rabbit program.
• Learn how to keep housing and equipment clean
• Learn to dress rabbits and find a market for the
and sanitary. Learn how to prevent diseases and
offspring that you do not plan to keep.
parasites of rabbits.
• Show your rabbits in at least one A.R.B.A. Youth
• Complete your 4-H Rabbit Record and give it to
Division Show to find out how your rabbits measure
the proper person according to your county's rules.
up to the rabbits of other breeders.
• Exhibit original living rabbits.
• Begin this year's record with the closing inventory
of the year before.
*lt is suggested that the 4-H'er buy three rabbits • Exhibit one or more rabbits that you have fed and
so that if one dies the project can still be cared for from the time of birth. County rules on the
completed. Also having rabbits of both sexes total number and specific exhibit take precedence.
provides a start on the next year.

Suggested Second Year in Rabbits - Fancy

or Commercial

• Improve on everything done for the First Year.

• Learn how to tattoo a rabbit.

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 29

Suggested Fourth Year in Rabbits

• Improve upon everything done for the Third Year.

• Help at least one new, beginning 4-H rabbit
member get started. Help the new member get two
4-month-old does and a buck from pedigreed stock.
• Begin this year's record with the closing inventory
of the year before.
• Exhibit a commercial meat pen.
• Exhibit two does and one buck in their show room
classes.
• Exhibit one of the does or the buck, either a
colored or a white rabbit of any age that is in top fur
condition.

Suggested Fifth Year and Above in Rabbits

• Improve upon everything done for the Fourth Year.

• Serve as a 4-H junior leader for the 4-H rabbit
program in your county or in your 4-H club as the
project leader.
• Begin this year's record with the closing inventory
of the year before.
• Exhibit rabbits in all show room classes for your
breed(s). (Four classes for small breeds, six classes
for medium and giant breeds.)
• Exhibit a commercial meat pen.
• Exhibit at the State Fair, as well as at your county
fair.
• Exhibit in more than one A.R.B.A. show in either
the Youth or Open Class Division.

Meat Pen - Commercial Rabbits

Exhibit three rabbits of the same breed and color or

variety. They should be of equal size, litter mates, not
over 5 pounds in weight and not over 69 days of age.
They can be opposite or like sex. Rabbits of marked
breeds must be marked with no disqualifications. If
not, the entire pen can be disqualified.

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Glossary of Rabbit Terms Breeding Certificate - A written certificate by the

owner of a stud buck, showing its pedigree and
Adult - See Senior. the date of breeding to a particular doe. Given to
prove the ancestry of the young.
Abcess - See Boils.
Broken Coat - Guard hair broken or missing in spots
Agouti - A hair shaft having three or more bands of exposing the undercoat. Areas where the coat is
color with a definite break in color bands on the affected by molt exposing the undercoat.
entire body. Usually dark slate at the base, with
two or more alternating light and dark bands or Broken Ear - A distinct break in the cartilage which
rings interspersed with black guard hairs. Head, prevents erect ear carriage.
ears and feet usually carrying ticking. Belly color Broken Tail - A tail that is or has been broken and is
usually much lighter and not carrying ticking. out of line. A disqualification.
Example: steel or gray Flemish, Chinchilla and
Belgian Hares. Buck - An unaltered male rabbit.
Back - The entire top portion of the rabbit, extending Buck Teeth - See Wolf Teeth.
from neck to tail. Buff - A rich golden orange color with a creamy cast.
Bare Spots - A section of the rabbit entirely without Bull Dog - A short, broad, bold head of pronounced
fur. masculine appearance.
Bell Ears - Ears that have large tips with a distinct Butterfly - A dark colored area on the nose, such as
fall or lop. found on the Checkered Giant and English Spot
Belly - The lower part of the body containing the breeds.
intestines. The abdomen. For purposes of Carcass Weight - The weight of the rabbit after it
defining color area, it is the underbody of the has been killed and dressed.
rabbit from the forelegs to the crotch area.
Carriage - The way a rabbit bears itself. The style or
Belt - The line where the colored portion of the body station of a rabbit.
meets the white portion just behind the
shoulders. Example: Dutch. Cheek - The sides of the face beneath the eyes
Blaze - White on the head and nose running up Chest -The front portion of the body between the
between the eyes on rabbits with multi-colored forelegs and neck.
fur.
Choppy (or Chopped Off) - Having the back and
Boils - A hard swelling or isolated collection of puss loins cut off abruptly and falling vertically to the
or purulent matter occurring in the rabbit's skin, tail. Not having a gracefully arched back and
accompanied by localized fever and heat. loins.
Bowed Legs - Applied to both fore and hind legs. Cobby - Stout and stocky. Short legged and short
Bent like a bow. Curved outwardly in the middle. coupled.
Breed - A race or special class of domestic rabbits Collar - A white band completely circling the body
that reproduce distinctive characteristics of fur at the chest and forelegs.
markings, fur texture, shape, size and growth. A
Condition - The physical state of a rabbit in
breed may be subdivided into varieties. Example:
reference to health, cleanliness, texture and molt
the Black, Blue and Tortoise varieties of the
of fur, and grooming.
Dutch breed.
Cow Hocks - Hocks that turn or bend inward
Breeder - A person who breeds or raises a special
causing the foot portion to turn outward.
variety or varieties of rabbits in conformity with
accepted standards of perfection or for the Creamy - Light yellow. The color of cream.
purpose of improving their commercial value.

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 31

Culling - Selecting only the best rabbit from the litter Fly Back -The property of fur that causes it to return
for future breeding and show stock. Cutting out quickly to its normal position when stroked
the least desirable specimens from a litter. toward the head of the rabbit.
Dam - A mother rabbit. Flying Coat - A loose, fluffy coat of fur, caused by
undue length and thinness of under wool and
Density - The property or quality of a thick coat.
weak guard hairs.
Dewlap - A pendulous fold or folds of loose skin
Foot - That part of the leg on which the rabbit stands.
hanging from the throat.
On the foreleg - that portion below the ankle or
Disqualify - One or more permanent defects, pastern. On the rear leg - that portion below the
deformities or blemishes that make a rabbit unfit hock joint.
to win an award in competition or to take part in
Forehead - The front part of the head between the
an exhibition. (Disqualified rabbits are not
eyes and the base of the ears.
eligible for registration by A.R.B.A.)
Foreign Color - Any color of fur, eyes or nails that
Doe - A female rabbit that has not been altered.
is different from the prescribed standard of
Ear Lacing - A black or dark colored line of fur perfection for the breed and variety.
outlining the sides and tips of the ear.
Frosty - Having the appearance of being powdered
Elimination - One or more defects presumed to be or sprinkled with meal. Mealy.
temporary and curable. Cause for elimination in
Genotype - The genetic inherited characteristics and
a show or from registration until cured or
potential of the rabbit stock.
corrected. (Elimination for overweight or
underweight - rabbit can compete in fur class.) Gestation - Carrying young in the uterus. Pregnancy.
Eye Circle - Even marking of color around both Glossy - The reflected luster or sheen from. naturally
eyes. Example: Checkered Giant. healthy fur in rabbits. Improved by grooming.
Eye Color - The color of the iris. The circle of color Guard Hair - The longer coarser hair of the coat,
surrounding the pupil. offering protection to the undercoat and
providing wearing quality and sheen to the coat.
Faking - Any change in the external appearance of a
rabbit on exhibition, done with intent to deceive. Hairline - A narrow white line running between the
ears, connecting the blaze and collar on the
Faults - Imperfections or lacking ideal type for breed
Dutch.
and variety, not serious enough to disqualify the
rabbit. Examples are cheek spots too large, bars Hindquarters -The after portion or posterior section
instead of spots, lack of taper in spine marking or of the body, made up of loins, hips, hind legs and
herring bone. rump.
Fine Coat - Coat is too fine in texture and lacking Hip - The thigh joint and large muscular first joint of
body. Guard hairs are too weak and thin in the hind leg.
structure, similar to hairs making up the
Hock - The middle joint or section of the hind leg
undercoat.
between the foot and hip.
Flabby - The condition of a rabbit when the flesh or
Hog Fat - The condition of a rabbit obviously
fur hangs loosely. Not trim and shapely.
over-fattened and, as a result, out of proportion
Flank - The sides of the rabbit between the ribs and to the true type of the breed.
hips and above the belly.
Hump Back - Having a hump or protuberance on the
Flat Coat - Coat lying flat or close to the body, back, marring a gracefully arched outline.
lacking spring or body. Fine coat coupled with
Inbreeding - A system involving very close mating
lack of density.
of rabbit stock, such as brother and sister.

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Inherited - The degree for which a trait or Marked - Having the basic color broken up by
characteristic is passed on from parent to orderly placement on a white (usually)
offspring. background.
Inner Ear - The concave portion of the ear. Massive - Bulky and heavy. Ponderous. Large and
compact.
Intermediate - A rabbit at least six months old and
no more than eight months. Mealy - See Frosty.
Junior - A rabbit under six months of age. Meaty - The quality of being able to carry a large
proportion of meat for the size and type of rabbit.
Kindle - To give birth to young rabbits.
A noticeable meatiness at the forequarters, back,
Knee -The second joint of the leg, connecting the saddle, loins and haunches.
thigh and leg. In animals, more properly called
Molt (Moult) - The process of shedding or changing
the "hock." The second joint of the foreleg is the
the fur twice each year. The baby or nest fur is
elbow.
molted at two months. The first natural coat of
Knock Kneed - See Cow Hocks. fur is fully developed at four to six months.
Lapin - French word for rabbit. Also, in the fur Muzzle - The projecting portion of the head
trade, it is dyed rabbit fur. surrounding the mouth, nose and lower jaw.
Lazy Tail - A tail that is slow to assume its normal Neck - That part of the rabbit connecting the head
position when it is moved. and body.
Line Breeding -A system of mating stock so that the Nest Box - Special box inside the hutch or cage hole
offspring are highly related or close descendants where the young are kindled and live for the first
of the chosen ancestor. 18 to 21 days.
Litter - Young rabbits of a doe born at the same Nostrils -The two openings of the nose leading to the
head.
time.
Off Colored - Applied to several hairs or patches of
Live Weight - Weight of a rabbit before it is dressed
fur foreign to the standard color of the rabbit.
for market.
Open Coat - See Loose Coat.
Loin - That part of the back on either side of the
spine and between the lower rib and the hip joint. Outcrossing - A system of mating unrelated stock of
the same breed.
Loose Coat - Fur lacking density in the undercoat,
coupled usually with fine guard hairs and a Pair - A male and female rabbit.
resulting lack of texture. Does not indicate a
Palpation - A hand method used to determine if a
slipping coat.
doe is pregnant and will bear young.
Lopped Ear - Pendulous ear. Not carried erect.
Patches - A small section of fur foreign to the color
Falling to the side or front.
standard of the rabbit.
Luster - Brightness and brilliance of fur.
Paunch - The prominent portion of the abdomen of
Malocclusion - An inherited defect where the upper the rabbit.
and lower jaws do not let the teeth meet,
Pedigree - A written chart of the male and female
resulting in long uneven teeth extending out of
ancestors of a rabbit, showing the date of birth,
the mouth.
ownership of dam and parents, grandparents and
Mandolin - Having the appearance of the body of a greatgrandparents of the specimen.
mandolin laid face down. Back and saddle
Pelage - The fur coat or covering.
arching toward loins to make noticeably large,
broad hindquarters.

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Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 33

Pepper and Salt - A flat, unattractive appearance of scoring. Occurs more often in the agouti breeds
black and white ticking. Example: Chinchillas. than in selfs.
Caused by lack of contrast and waviness and in
Shoulder - The uppermost joint of the foreleg,
ticking and weakness of color in the tips of guard
connecting it with the body.
hairs.
Silvered - Having an abundance of silverwhite or
Phenotype - The appearance of the individual rabbit.
silver-tipped guard hairs interspersed through the
Poor Coat - Fur not in good condition through fur that produces a lustrous silvery appearance.
molting, rust, poor grooming or ill health of the
Sire - A father rabbit.
rabbit.
Slipping Coat - A coat that is shedding or molting a
Rabbit - A domesticated rodent of the genus
profusion of hairs.
Orctolagus cuniculus.
Slobbers - Excessive salivation creating wet or
Racy - Slim, trim, slender in body and legs, harelike,
extremely moist and unsightly fur around the
alert and active.
mouth and lower jaw and forelegs.
Ribs - The curved portions of the sides immediately
Snaky - Slender, narrow body, thin and typical of the
back of the shoulders above the belly.
Himalayan.
Rump - The hind portion of the back and bones.
Snipey - Narrow and elongated head, with an
Rust - A reddish-brown coloration of fur, usually appearance of undue leanness.
appearing on the sides, flanks or feet of rabbits,
Solid Color - Of the same color uniformity over the
having the appearance of iron rust and being
entire animal, not mixed with any other color.
foreign to the standard color. Rust usually
Having no markings or shadings. Includes ticked
appears in American Blues, Black, Havanas and
or agouti colored rabbits. Also includes brindled
Lilacs. May be caused by fading through
rabbits but not rabbits of basic "tan" pattern.
over-exposure to the sunlight, dirty hutches or
dead hair about to molt. Sport - Rabbit not true to the characteristics of its
breed.
Saddle - The rounded, intermediate portion of the
back between the shoulder and loin. Spraddled Legs - Forefeet bowed outward when
viewed from the front. Knock kneed. Hind feet
Sandy - The color of sand, as in sand-gray Flemish
not set parallel with the body. Turned outward
Giants. Gray with reddish brown cast
from the hock joint.
interspersed with dark guard hairs.
Station - Ideal manner of standing of carriage in
Screw Tail - A tail that is twisted. A corkscrew tail
conformity with standard position of pose.
has more than one turn and is a disqualification.
Stocky - Compact, stout and cobby.
Self or Self-Colored - Rabbits of the same colored
fur over the entire head, legs, body and tail. Not Stops - In the Dutch, white part of the hind foot
having ticking, agouti hair pattern or shadings. extending upward from toes and ending abruptly
about one third of the way to the hocks.
Senior -A rabbit six months of age and over in those
breeds having two show room classes, Junior and Strain - A race or stock of rabbits in any standard
Senior. A rabbit eight months of age and older in breed of the same family blood, having the
those breeds having three show room classes, quality of reproducing marked racial
Junior, Intermediate, Senior. characteristics.
Shadow Bars -Weakness of self-color in the fur of Stringy - The quality of having a ropy or sinewy
both fore and hind feet, appearing in the form of finish, noticeably in the larger breeds of rabbits if
white or lighter colored bars running across the not properly fattened for market.
feet and acting as a severe cut or penalty in

November 1990
Rabbits, rabbits, rabbits Page 34

Sway Back - Having a distinct fall or scoop in that Wool - Descriptive of the fur of Angora rabbits. The
portion of the back between the shoulders and guard hairs and under-fur being from 2½ to 5
hindquarters, as distinguished from a gradually inches long and resembling fine wool in texture.
arching back.
Wry Tail -Abnormally bent, curled or twisted.
Sweep - An unbroken flow of designated markings. Permanently held to one side. A disqualification
There should be no gaps or congested areas. for a rabbit.
Symmetry - The quality of possessing a harmonious
proportion of head, ears, legs and body structure
conforming to the standard type of the breed
represented.
Tail Carriage - The way in which a rabbit carries its
tail. Poor tail carriage is denoted by the tail being
carried to one side or the other.
Tattoo - A punched code in the ear that is a
permanent method of identification.
Texture - The character of fur as determined by feel
or touch, such as "fine" or "coarse" texture.
Trio - One buck and two does.
Tucked Up - The trim appearance of a Belgian Hare,
with long rounded body and breast and belly
gathered in closely to form an arch when the
rabbit is sitting.
Type - Used to denote body conformation of a rabbit,
or shape of a particular part of a rabbit, as in
"head type." The general description of the
physical makeup of the rabbit.
Typical -Serving as an ideal representative of any
given breed or variety as applied to type, color or
fur quality.
Under Color - The base of the fur hair. Shaft next to
the skin. Not the belly fur of the rabbit.
Variety - A subdivision of any recognized standard
breed, distinct in color of fur from other
subdivisions. With rabbits type shows the breed
and color the variety.
Wall Eyes (Moon Eyes) - Having a milky film over
the cornea or appearance similar to a moonstone.
Colored eyes having an extremely light iris
giving the eye a glazed appearance.
Wolf Teeth - Protruding or elongated teeth in the
upper or lower jaw caused by improper
alignment of the upper and lower front teeth
preventing normal wearing action.

November 1990
1. This document is 4HRAM10 (which supercedes 4H-9), one of a series of the 4-H Youth Development Program, Florida
Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida. Printed November
1990; reviewed January 2009. Please visit the FAIRS Website at [Link]
2. Norman . Young, Extension Specialist - Youth, Purue University and the Indiana State 4-H Rabbit Committee,
Cooperative Extension Service, Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, University of Florida, Gainesville, 32611.

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE, UNIVERSITY OF FLORIDA, INSTITUTE OF FOOD AND AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES, Christine
Taylor Waddill, Director, in cooperation with the United States Department of Agriculture, publishes this information to further the purpose of
the May 8 and June 30, 1914 Acts of Congress; and is authorized to provide research, educational information and other services only to
individuals and institutions that function without regard to race, color, age, sex, handicap or national origin. The information in this publication
is available in alternate formats. Single copies of extension publications (excluding 4-H and youth publications) are available free to Florida
residents from county extension offices. Information on copies for out-of-state purchase is available from Publications Distribution Center,
University of Florida, PO Box 110011, Gainesville, FL 32611-0011. Information about alternate formats is available from Educational Media and
Services, University of Florida, PO Box 110810, Gainesville, FL 32611-0810. This information was published November 1990 as 4HRAM10,
Florida Cooperative Extension Service.