CO-2: COSMECEUTICALS &

COSMETICS
Skin, Hair & Oral Care — Complete Study Notes
B. Pharm Semester 2 | 5–6 Marks Answers | Easy Language

1. Structure of Skin (with Labeled Diagram)

Definition
Skin is the largest organ of the human body. It covers the entire external surface and acts as
a protective barrier. Its total area is about 1.5–2 sq. metres in an adult. It has three main
layers.

LABELED DIAGRAM — CROSS SECTION OF SKIN

SURFACE (Outside world)
===================================================
| EPIDERMIS (Outermost Layer) |
| > Stratum Corneum (dead flat cells) |
| > Stratum Granulosum |
| > Stratum Spinosum |
| > Stratum Basale (dividing cells + melanin) |
===================================================
| DERMIS (Middle Layer) |
| > Collagen & Elastin fibres |
| > Blood vessels & Lymphatics |
| > Hair follicles |
| > Sebaceous glands (oil) |
| > Sweat glands (eccrine & apocrine) |
| > Nerve endings (touch, pain, temperature) |
===================================================
| HYPODERMIS / SUBCUTANEOUS TISSUE |
| > Fat cells (adipocytes) |
| > Insulation & energy storage |
===================================================
MUSCLE / BONE (Inside body)

1.1 Epidermis (Outermost Layer)

The epidermis is the top-most layer of skin. It has no blood vessels. Cells here are called keratinocytes.
The epidermis has 5 sub-layers (from inside out):
Sub-layer What it does
Stratum Basale Deepest layer — new cells are born here; also contains
melanocytes (melanin pigment)
 Stratum Spinosum Cells start to flatten; immune (Langerhans) cells present
Stratum Granulosum Cells make keratohyalin granules — start of waterproofing
Stratum Lucidum Only in thick skin (palms, soles) — clear layer
Stratum Corneum Top layer — dead, flat, scale-like cells; provides barrier
protection

1.2 Dermis (Middle Layer)

• Made of connective tissue — mainly collagen (gives strength) and elastin (gives elasticity)
• Contains blood vessels that nourish the skin
• Contains sebaceous glands — produce sebum (natural oil to keep skin soft)
• Contains sweat glands — regulate body temperature
• Contains hair follicles — where hair grows from
• Contains nerve endings — sense of touch, pain, heat, cold

1.3 Hypodermis (Deepest Layer)

• Also called subcutaneous tissue
• Made of fat cells (adipocytes)
• Acts as insulation and cushion
• Stores energy
• Connects skin to muscles below

1.4 Skin Barriers

Skin has several protective barriers:
Type of Barrier How it Works
Physical Barrier Stratum corneum — flat dead cells + lipid matrix prevent water
loss and entry of chemicals
Chemical Barrier Acid mantle (pH 4.5–5.5) — slightly acidic surface prevents
bacterial growth
Immunological Barrier Langerhans cells in epidermis recognize foreign substances
and trigger immune response
Melanin Barrier Melanin pigment in basal layer absorbs UV radiation and
prevents DNA damage

1.5 Skin Types

Skin Type Characteristics Care Needed
Normal Balanced oil & water, smooth, no Regular cleansing and moisturizing
flakiness
Dry Flaky, rough, tight feeling, low sebum Rich moisturizers, gentle cleansers
Oily Shiny, large pores, prone to acne, Oil-free products, salicylic acid
excess sebum
Combination Oily T-zone, dry cheeks Zone-specific care
Sensitive Reacts easily, redness, itching, Hypoallergenic, fragrance-free
 burning products

2. Problems Associated with Skin

2.1 Acne
Simple Definition
Acne is a common skin condition where hair follicles become blocked with oil (sebum) and
dead skin cells, leading to pimples, blackheads, whiteheads, and cysts.

Causes of Acne:
1. Excess sebum production — sebaceous glands become overactive
2. Blockage of pores — dead skin cells + sebum plug the follicle
3. Bacterial infection — Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) bacteria grow inside the blocked follicle
4. Inflammation — immune system reacts to the bacteria, causing redness and swelling
5. Hormonal changes — androgens increase sebum production (common in puberty)
Types of Acne Lesions:
Type Description
Comedone (Blackhead) Open pore blocked with oxidized sebum — appears black
Comedone (Whitehead) Closed pore blocked under skin — appears white/flesh colored
Papule Small, red, raised bump — inflammatory
Pustule Red bump with yellow/white pus at top
Nodule Large, deep, hard, painful bump — no pus
Cyst Deep, painful, pus-filled lump — can cause scarring

Anti-Acne Cosmeceutical Formulations:

Ingredient How it Helps
Salicylic Acid (BHA) Exfoliates inside the pore, unblocks comedones, anti-
inflammatory
Benzoyl Peroxide Kills C. acnes bacteria, reduces inflammation
Retinoids (Retinol) Speeds up cell turnover, unblocks pores, reduces sebum
Niacinamide Reduces sebum, shrinks pores, anti-inflammatory
Tea Tree Oil Natural antibacterial, reduces mild acne
Azelaic Acid Kills bacteria, reduces redness and post-acne marks
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA) Exfoliate dead cells, improve skin texture

Formulation Strategy for Acne:

• Mild comedonal acne → Salicylic acid face wash / gel 0.5–2%
• Moderate acne with papules/pustules → Benzoyl peroxide 2.5–5% gel + niacinamide serum
• Severe cystic acne → Refer to dermatologist for prescription retinoids
• Post-acne marks / pigmentation → Azelaic acid + vitamin C serum
2.2 Dry Skin (Xerosis)
Simple Definition
Dry skin is a condition where the skin lacks sufficient moisture (water) and oil (sebum),
making it feel rough, flaky, tight, and sometimes itchy.

Causes:
• Low humidity in environment
• Excessive washing with harsh soaps
• Aging — sebaceous and sweat glands become less active
• Cold weather — reduces natural oil production
• Medical conditions — thyroid disorders, diabetes, eczema
Treatment and Formulations for Dry Skin:
Product Type Key Ingredients Function
Gentle Cleanser Cetomacrogol, glycerin, no SLS Cleans without stripping natural oils
Moisturizer / Shea butter, petrolatum, mineral oil Creates occlusive layer to prevent
Emollient water loss
Humectant Serum Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea Attracts water into skin from deeper
layers
Night Cream Ceramides, niacinamide, peptides Repairs skin barrier overnight
Body Lotion Lactic acid, urea 5–10%, aloe vera Exfoliates + moisturizes rough body
skin

2.3 Pigmentation / Hyperpigmentation

Simple Definition
Pigmentation means uneven darkening of skin patches due to excess melanin production in
certain areas.

Types:
• Melasma — brown patches on face, triggered by sun/hormones/pregnancy
• Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) — dark spots left after acne or injury
• Age spots / Liver spots — from chronic sun exposure
• Freckles — small flat brown spots, genetic + sun exposure
Causes:
• Excess UV exposure — triggers melanocytes to produce excess melanin
• Hormonal changes — estrogen/progesterone stimulate melanocytes
• Post-inflammation — after acne, burns, or injury
Treatment of Hyperpigmentation:
Ingredient Mechanism
Kojic Acid Inhibits tyrosinase enzyme — reduces melanin synthesis
Arbutin (Alpha/Beta) Natural tyrosinase inhibitor — safer alternative to hydroquinone
 Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) Antioxidant, reduces melanin oxidation, brightens skin
Niacinamide Blocks melanin transfer from melanocyte to keratinocyte
Retinol Speeds up cell turnover, fades dark spots
Azelaic Acid Selectively reduces hyperactive melanocytes
Hydroquinone Strong tyrosinase inhibitor — prescription only in India
Chemical peels (AHA/BHA) Exfoliate pigmented surface cells
Sunscreen (SPF 30+) Essential to prevent worsening of any pigmentation

2.4 Wrinkles / Skin Aging

Simple Definition
Wrinkles are lines, creases, and folds in the skin that occur due to loss of collagen, elastin,
and moisture as we age.

Causes:
• Intrinsic aging — natural loss of collagen and elastin with age
• Photo-aging — UV radiation destroys collagen (most important external cause)
• Muscle movements — repeated facial expressions cause expression lines
• Dehydration — loss of skin moisture makes lines more visible
• Smoking — reduces collagen production
Treatment:
Ingredient Action
Retinol / Retinoids Stimulates collagen synthesis, speeds cell turnover
Peptides (e.g. Matrixyl) Signal skin to produce more collagen
Hyaluronic Acid Deep hydration — plumps skin, makes wrinkles less visible
Vitamin C Antioxidant — protects collagen from UV damage
Sunscreen SPF 30+ Prevents further photo-aging — most important anti-aging step
AHA (Glycolic Acid) Exfoliates, improves texture, stimulates collagen
Niacinamide Strengthens skin barrier, reduces fine lines

2.5 Cosmetic Dermatitis

Simple Definition
Cosmetic dermatitis is a skin reaction (redness, itching, rash) caused by ingredients in
cosmetic products.

Types:
• Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ICD): Most common. Direct damage to skin by chemical — no
immune involvement. Example: Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS) causing burning.
• Allergic Contact Dermatitis (ACD): Immune-mediated reaction. Even small amounts cause
reaction in sensitized person. Example: fragrance allergy, PPD (hair dye) allergy.
Common Causes:
• Fragrances — most common cosmetic allergen
• Preservatives — parabens, formaldehyde releasers
• Hair dye chemicals — PPD (p-phenylenediamine)
• Nickel in cosmetic packaging
• Lanolin, propylene glycol
Diagnostic Tests:
6. Patch Test (Gold Standard): Small amounts of suspected ingredients applied to skin (usually
back) under occlusion for 48 hours. Results read at 48 and 96 hours.
7. Repeat Insult Patch Test (RIPT / HRIPT): Used by manufacturers to test product safety before
launch.
8. Use Test: Suspect product applied to inner arm for 7 days — checks for real-world reactions.
Precautions to Minimize Cosmetic Dermatitis:
• Perform patch test before using new products, especially on face
• Choose fragrance-free, paraben-free, hypoallergenic formulations
• Read INCI ingredient lists carefully
• Introduce one new product at a time
• Avoid over-washing — damages skin barrier

3. Structure of Hair and Hair Growth Cycle ★★★★

Why Important?
This is a 4-star topic in your list. Hair structure and growth cycle is asked almost every exam.
Learn the diagram and all three cycle phases clearly.

3.1 Structure of Hair — Labeled Diagram

WELL-LABELED DIAGRAM: STRUCTURE OF HAIR
HAIR SHAFT (above skin surface)
|
============================================
| OUTER LAYER: Cuticle |
| (flat overlapping scales, like roof |
| tiles — protect inner layers) |
|------------------------------------------|
| MIDDLE LAYER: Cortex |
| (makes up 90% of hair mass; |
| contains melanin — gives hair color; |
| keratin proteins — gives strength) |
|------------------------------------------|
| INNER LAYER: Medulla |
| (central hollow or loosely packed |
| cells — may be absent in fine hair) |
============================================
SKIN SURFACE (scalp)
============================================
| HAIR FOLLICLE (in dermis) |
| > Inner Root Sheath |
 | > Outer Root Sheath |
| > Arrector Pili muscle (makes hair |
| stand up in cold/fear) |
| > Sebaceous Gland (secretes sebum) |
|------------------------------------------|
| HAIR BULB (base of follicle) |
| > Matrix cells — fastest dividing |
| cells in the body |
| > Melanocytes — produce hair pigment |
| > Dermal Papilla — blood supply; |
| provides nutrients and growth signals |
============================================

3.2 Parts of Hair — Explanation

Part Location Function
Hair Shaft Above skin surface Visible part of hair — made of dead
keratinized cells
Cuticle Outermost layer of shaft Protective scaly layer; gives hair its
shine and smoothness
Cortex Middle layer of shaft Contains melanin (color) and keratin
(strength/elasticity)
Medulla Innermost layer of shaft Spongy core; present in thick hair,
absent in fine hair
Hair Follicle In dermis Tube-like pocket that holds the hair
root; determines hair shape
Hair Bulb Base of follicle Actively growing region where new
hair cells are formed
Dermal Papilla Inside hair bulb Rich in blood vessels; provides
nutrients to hair matrix cells
Matrix Cells Around dermal papilla Rapidly dividing cells that produce
the hair shaft
Melanocytes In hair bulb Produce melanin pigment that gives
hair its color
Sebaceous Gland Attached to follicle Produces sebum — natural
conditioner and moisturizer for hair
Arrector Pili Attached to follicle Tiny muscle — contracts to make
hair stand upright (goosebumps)

3.3 Hair Growth Cycle — All 3 Phases in Detail

Remember this!
Hair does NOT grow continuously. It goes through a cycle of 3 phases: Anagen (growth) →
Catagen (transition) → Telogen (rest/shedding). At any time, different hairs on your scalp are
at different phases.
 HAIR GROWTH CYCLE PHASES
ANAGEN CATAGEN TELOGEN
(Active Growth) (Transition) (Resting/Shed)

| | | | | |
| | | | | |
__|__ | __|_| __|_|
|BULB | | |BULB| |BULB|
| (o) | | |shrk| |dead|
|Papi-| | | | | |
|lla | | No | Shed!
Rapid growth Shrinking No growth
85-90% 1-3% 10-15%
2-7 years 2-3 weeks 3-4 months

Phase 1 — ANAGEN (Active Growth Phase)

• This is the GROWING phase of hair
• Duration: 2 to 7 years (scalp hair) — this is why scalp hair can grow very long
• About 85–90% of all scalp hairs are in this phase at any time
• Matrix cells in the hair bulb divide rapidly and push the hair shaft upward
• Dermal papilla is active — good blood supply
• Hair grows approximately 1 cm per month
• The longer the anagen phase, the longer the hair can grow

Phase 2 — CATAGEN (Transition / Regression Phase)

• This is the STOPPING phase
• Duration: 2–3 weeks only
• Only about 1–3% of hairs are in this phase at any time
• Cell division in the matrix STOPS
• The hair follicle begins to shrink
• The dermal papilla detaches from the hair bulb
• Hair bulb moves upward toward skin surface
• Hair is no longer growing — becomes a 'club hair'

Phase 3 — TELOGEN (Resting / Shedding Phase)

• This is the RESTING phase
• Duration: 3–4 months
• About 10–15% of scalp hairs are in this phase
• The hair follicle is completely at rest — no growth
• The old club hair is held loosely in the follicle
• Toward the end of telogen, the old hair is pushed out by new anagen hair starting below
• Normal hair shedding: 50–100 hairs per day is considered normal

What is Exogen?
• Some scientists describe a 4th phase — Exogen — the active shedding of the club hair
• This is when hair actually falls from the scalp
3.4 Summary Table — Hair Growth Cycle
Phase Duration % of Hairs Activity
Anagen 2–7 years 85–90% Active growth — matrix
cells dividing rapidly
Catagen 2–3 weeks 1–3% Transition — cell
division stops, follicle
shrinks
Telogen 3–4 months 10–15% Resting — no growth,
old hair held loosely
Exogen Days to weeks Overlaps telogen Active shedding of club
hair

3.5 Hair Problems and Their Causes

Hair Problem Cause
Dandruff Malassezia yeast overgrowth, excess sebum, dry scalp
Hair fall / Alopecia Shortened anagen phase, hormonal (DHT), stress, nutritional
deficiency
Greying Loss of melanocytes in hair bulb with age
Split ends Damage to cuticle from heat, chemical treatments
Dry/frizzy hair Damaged/raised cuticle allowing moisture loss

4. Dandruff — Causes, Treatment and Cosmeceutical Formulations

Simple Definition
Dandruff (Pityriasis capitis) is a common scalp condition in which dead skin cells shed
excessively from the scalp, forming white or yellowish flakes visible on hair and shoulders. It
is often accompanied by itching.

4.1 Causes
9. Malassezia globosa (fungal overgrowth): This yeast lives normally on scalp. When it overgrows,
it breaks down sebum into irritant fatty acids (oleic acid), triggering skin cell turnover 2–3 times
faster than normal.
10. Excess sebum production: Oily scalp creates ideal environment for Malassezia growth.
11. Dry scalp: Less common — dry skin flakes off in smaller, dry pieces.
12. Sensitivity to hair care products: Product residue can irritate scalp.
13. Hormonal changes, stress, cold weather — all worsen dandruff.

4.2 Types of Dandruff

Type Characteristics
Dry scalp dandruff Small, white, dry flakes; scalp feels tight and itchy; no oiliness
Oily dandruff (Seborrheic dermatitis) Large, yellowish, greasy flakes; scalp is oily; can affect
 eyebrows, nose sides
Fungal dandruff Caused by Malassezia; responds to antifungal treatments

4.3 Anti-Dandruff Cosmeceutical Ingredients

Ingredient Concentration How it Works
Zinc Pyrithione (ZPT) 1–2% Kills Malassezia yeast; most common
ingredient in anti-dandruff shampoos
Ketoconazole 1–2% Antifungal; inhibits ergosterol
synthesis in Malassezia
Selenium Sulfide 1–2.5% Antifungal + reduces sebum
production
Coal Tar 0.5–5% Slows excessive skin cell turnover;
antifungal; anti-inflammatory
Salicylic Acid 1.8–3% Keratolytic — exfoliates dead skin
cells; helps remove flakes
Ciclopirox 1% Broad-spectrum antifungal with anti-
inflammatory properties
Piroctone Olamine 0.5–1% Newer antifungal; gentler than ZPT;
cosmetically elegant
Tea Tree Oil 5% Natural antifungal; soothes scalp
irritation

4.4 Formulation Strategy for Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

14. Base: Shampoo base with mild surfactants (SLS or SLES + cocamidopropyl betaine) — gentle
on scalp
15. Active: Zinc pyrithione 1–2% OR ketoconazole 1% as main antifungal
16. Keratolytic: Salicylic acid 1% — helps remove scale buildup
17. Soothing agents: Aloe vera, panthenol (Vitamin B5), menthol for cooling
18. Conditioning agents: Dimethicone, cetrimonium chloride — reduce friction and static
19. Preservative: Parabens or DMDM hydantoin at appropriate levels
20. pH: Adjust to 5–6 (slightly acidic — matches scalp pH for comfort)

5. Body Odor — Causes and Cosmeceutical Formulations

Simple Definition
Body odor (bromhidrosis) is the unpleasant smell produced when sweat from apocrine sweat
glands is broken down by bacteria on the skin surface.

5.1 How Body Odor is Produced

21. Apocrine sweat glands (in armpits, groin, around nipples) secrete a protein-rich, milky secretion.
22. This secretion is odorless by itself.
 23. Bacteria (mainly Corynebacterium and Staphylococcus) on skin surface break down proteins
and fats in sweat.
24. This bacterial action produces volatile acids and ammonia compounds that have a strong,
unpleasant smell.

5.2 Types of Sweat Glands

Feature Eccrine Glands Apocrine Glands
Location All over body (esp. palms, soles, Armpits, groin, around nipples
forehead)
Secretion Watery, clear, salty Thick, protein/fat-rich, milky
Function Temperature regulation Not well understood; stress/sexual
activity trigger
Odor Usually odorless Causes body odor when broken
down by bacteria

5.3 Cosmeceutical Formulations for Body Odor

Deodorants vs Antiperspirants:
Feature Deodorant Antiperspirant
Action Kills bacteria or masks odor — does Reduces sweating by plugging sweat
NOT reduce sweating gland pores
Key Ingredients Triclosan, alcohol, zinc salts, Aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium
fragrance zirconium tetrachlorohydrex
Product Forms Spray, roll-on, gel, stick Spray, roll-on, stick, cream

Common Active Ingredients in Deodorants/Antiperspirants:

Ingredient Role
Aluminium Chlorohydrate (15–25%) Forms temporary gel plug in sweat duct — reduces sweat
output
Triclosan Broad-spectrum antibacterial — kills odor-causing bacteria
Zinc Ricinoleate Adsorbs and neutralizes odor molecules without killing bacteria
Alcohol (Ethanol) Antiseptic — quick-drying antibacterial carrier
Fragrance / Essential oils Masks residual odor; adds pleasant scent
Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone Silicone base — smooth application in stick/solid forms

6. Baby Skin vs Adult Skin & Baby Care Cosmetics

6.1 Differences Between Baby Skin and Adult Skin
Feature Baby Skin Adult Skin
Thickness 25–30% thinner epidermis and Thicker and more developed
dermis
Skin barrier Less developed — higher Fully developed stratum corneum
transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
Absorption Much higher — chemicals absorb Lower percutaneous absorption
more easily
pH Higher at birth (pH ~7), drops to adult pH 4.5–5.5 (acidic — acid mantle)
level by 4 weeks (pH 5–5.5)
Sebaceous glands Very active just after birth (due to Active — sebum production
maternal hormones), then become throughout life
less active
Sweat glands Present but not fully functional Fully functional — regulate
temperature
Melanin Less melanin — more UV sensitive Normal melanin content
Microbial flora Developing in first weeks after birth Established protective microbiome
Surface area:body 3 times higher — greater exposure to Normal ratio
weight topicals

6.2 Special Requirements of Baby Cosmetics

• Extremely mild formulations — no irritants, no harsh surfactants
• No fragrance or minimal hypoallergenic fragrance (fragrance is #1 allergen in babies)
• No parabens, formaldehyde releasers, or sensitizing preservatives
• Ophthalmologically tested (tear-free) for eye area products
• Dermatologically tested — patch tested on adult sensitive skin and infant skin
• pH-balanced to match developing baby skin pH

6.3 Baby Care Bath Cosmetics

Product Key Ingredients Function
Baby Shampoo / Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) at Gentle cleansing without eye/skin
Wash low %, Cocamidopropyl Betaine irritation; tear-free
(CAPB), Coco-glucoside
Baby Lotion Mineral oil, petrolatum, shea butter, Maintains skin hydration, protects
aloe vera, chamomile extract barrier
Baby Powder Cornstarch (not talc — talc aspiration Absorbs moisture, prevents diaper
risk), zinc oxide, calendula extract rash
Baby Oil Mineral oil, sunflower oil, Vitamin E Massage oil, moisturizes dry baby
(tocopherol) skin
Baby Diaper Cream Zinc Oxide 10–40%, lanolin, Physical barrier against urine/feces;
petrolatum, calendula treats/prevents diaper rash
Baby Sunscreen Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide UV protection — no chemical
(physical filters only) sunscreen agents for babies under 6
months
7. Problems Associated with Oral Cavity
7.1 Dental Caries (Tooth Decay / Dental Cavities)
Simple Definition
Dental caries is the destruction of tooth structure (enamel, dentine, pulp) caused by acids
produced by bacteria in the mouth when they ferment sugars.

Process (How Cavities Form — Step by Step):

25. Sugar and starchy food eaten → bacteria in mouth (mainly Streptococcus mutans) ferment
sugars
26. This produces lactic acid and other organic acids
27. Acid lowers pH in mouth below 5.5
28. At pH < 5.5, calcium and phosphate dissolve out of tooth enamel — called demineralization
29. White spot appears first (early cavitation)
30. If not treated, acid progresses through enamel → dentine → pulp → causing pain and infection
Structure of Tooth — Brief:
CROSS SECTION OF A TOOTH
CROWN (above gum)
========================
| ENAMEL | <- Hardest substance in body; mineral
| DENTINE | <- Softer yellow layer under enamel
| PULP (blood/nerves) | <- Sensitive core; pain felt here
========================
NECK (at gum line)
========================
| ROOT (in jawbone) | <- Held by periodontal ligament
========================

Treatment / Cosmeceutical Formulations for Dental Caries:

Product Key Ingredients Action
Fluoride Toothpaste Sodium Fluoride (1000–1450 ppm), Fluoride replaces OH- in
Sodium Monofluorophosphate hydroxyapatite → forms fluorapatite
→ much harder, acid-resistant
enamel
Remineralizing Paste NovaMin (calcium sodium Deposits calcium and phosphate
phosphosilicate), CPP-ACP back into demineralized areas
(Recaldent)
Antibacterial Chlorhexidine 0.12–0.2%, Kills Streptococcus mutans —
Mouthwash Cetylpyridinium Chloride (CPC) reduces bacterial load
Xylitol products Xylitol in gum, mints, toothpaste Cannot be fermented by bacteria —
starves bacteria; reduces caries
Antiseptic Gel Chlorhexidine gel Applied in deep pits and fissures —
prevents cavity formation
7.2 Bleeding Gums and Sensitive Teeth
Bleeding Gums (Gingivitis / Periodontitis):
Simple Definition
Bleeding gums occur when the gums (gingiva) become inflamed due to bacterial plaque
buildup. The inflamed gums bleed easily on brushing.
31. Cause: Poor oral hygiene → dental plaque accumulates at gum line → bacteria in plaque
release toxins → gum inflammation (gingivitis)
32. If untreated → periodontitis — infection spreads below gum line → bone loss → tooth loss
33. Other causes: Vitamin C deficiency (scurvy), blood disorders, hormonal changes
Formulations for Bleeding Gums:
Product Key Ingredients Action
Antibacterial Triclosan 0.3%, Zinc Citrate, Kills plaque bacteria, reduces
Toothpaste Stannous Fluoride gingivitis
Medicated Chlorhexidine 0.12–0.2% Gold standard antibacterial for gum
Mouthwash disease
Herbal Gel Clove oil (eugenol), turmeric, aloe Anti-inflammatory, antibacterial —
vera traditional therapy
Vitamin C supplement Ascorbic acid Strengthens connective tissue of
/ gel gums
Stannous Fluoride SnF2 0.454% Antimicrobial + anti-gingivitis +
toothpaste strengthens enamel

Sensitive Teeth (Dentinal Hypersensitivity):

Simple Definition
Tooth sensitivity is a sharp, short pain triggered by hot, cold, sweet, or acidic foods/drinks,
caused by exposed dentinal tubules.
• Dentinal tubules are tiny channels in dentine that connect to nerve endings in the pulp
• When enamel wears away or gums recede, dentine is exposed
• Hot/cold stimuli cause fluid movement in dentinal tubules → triggers nerve pain
Formulations for Sensitive Teeth:
Ingredient Mechanism
Potassium Nitrate (5%) Depolarizes nerve endings — reduces nerve excitability; most
common desensitizer
Strontium Chloride (10%) Blocks dentinal tubule openings mechanically
Arginine + Calcium Carbonate Pro-Argin technology — seals dentinal tubules with mineral
plug
Sodium Fluoride Promotes mineral deposition in tubules — blocks them
NovaMin Releases calcium and phosphate — forms hydroxyapatite to
seal tubules
7.3 Mouth Odor (Halitosis)
Simple Definition
Halitosis (bad breath) is an unpleasant odor from the mouth, mainly caused by bacterial
breakdown of food particles and proteins in the mouth.

Causes:
34. Oral causes (90%): Bacteria on tongue coat break down proteins → produce volatile sulfur
compounds (VSCs) — hydrogen sulfide, methyl mercaptan — main cause of bad breath
35. Poor oral hygiene — food debris between teeth
36. Dry mouth (xerostomia) — saliva flow reduces, bacteria grow more
37. Gum disease, tooth decay
38. Systemic causes (10%): Liver disease (fishy smell), kidney disease (urine smell), diabetes
(sweet/fruity smell), respiratory infections
Formulations for Mouth Odor:
Product Key Ingredients Action
Mouthwash Zinc Chloride, Chlorhexidine, CPC, Kills bacteria, oxidizes VSCs to
Hydrogen Peroxide odorless compounds, reduces tongue
coat
Tongue Scraper + Chlorine dioxide gel Oxidizes sulfur compounds directly
Gel on tongue surface
Antibacterial Triclosan, Zinc Citrate Reduces bacteria that produce VSCs
Toothpaste
Chewing Gum Xylitol, Zinc Acetate, Peppermint Stimulates saliva, masks odor,
reduces bacteria
Breath Spray Alcohol + menthol + essential oils + Quick masking and mild antibacterial
zinc

8. Cleansing and Care Needs for Different Body Parts

8.1 Face
Care Need Recommended Product / Ingredient
Cleansing Facial cleanser/face wash — mild surfactant base (SLS-free),
pH 5–6; removes dirt, oil, makeup
Toning Toner — witch hazel, rose water, niacinamide — refines pores,
balances pH after cleansing
Moisturizing Moisturizer with hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycerin —
maintains hydration barrier
Sun protection Sunscreen SPF 30–50 — applied last step of morning routine
— prevents aging and pigmentation
Exfoliation (2x/week) AHA (glycolic/lactic acid) or BHA (salicylic acid) — removes
dead cells, brightens skin
Treatment serums Vitamin C (morning-antioxidant), Retinol (night-anti-aging),
 Niacinamide (pore-refining)

8.2 Lips
• Lip skin is thinner than facial skin, has no sebaceous glands, and limited melanin — easily dries
and cracks
Care Need Product / Ingredient
Moisturizing Lip balm with beeswax, shea butter, Vitamin E, petrolatum —
creates occlusive barrier
Sun protection Lip balm with SPF 15–30 — lips have very little melanin, highly
UV-sensitive
Exfoliation Lip scrub — sugar + honey + coconut oil — gently removes
dead lip skin 1–2 times/week
Healing (chapped lips) Lanolin, allantoin, ceramides in lip balm — repair cracked lip
skin
Color/cosmetic Lipstick must be safe for ingestion — food-grade colors, safe
waxes

8.3 Under-Arm
• Armpit skin is thin, sensitive, frequently occluded, and rich in apocrine glands
Care Need Product
Cleansing Mild soap or body wash — removes sweat and bacteria daily
Deodorization Deodorant — kills bacteria / masks odor (alcohol, triclosan,
zinc ricinoleate)
Sweat reduction Antiperspirant — Aluminium Chlorohydrate 15–25%
Skin lightening Some people use kojic acid or niacinamide for underarm
darkening — a cosmetic concern
Hair removal aftercare Soothing gel (aloe vera, chamomile) after shaving/waxing

8.4 Scalp / Hair

Care Need Product
Cleansing Shampoo — surfactant base removes sebum, dirt, product
buildup
Conditioning Conditioner — cationic polymers (polyquaternium), silicones
coat hair shaft — reduce friction, add shine
Anti-dandruff Anti-dandruff shampoo — zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole
Scalp treatment Scalp serum with salicylic acid, minoxidil (for hair loss),
niacinamide
Styling protection Heat protectant sprays — silicones, hydrolyzed proteins
8.5 Hands
Care Need Product
Cleansing Mild hand wash — SLS/SLES based, pH 5–6
Moisturizing Hand cream — glycerin, urea 5%, shea butter — hands lose
moisture faster due to frequent washing
Sun protection SPF in hand cream recommended — back of hands age visibly
from UV
Nail care Keep nails trimmed; use nail oil (jojoba, almond oil) to prevent
brittle nails

8.6 Feet
• Foot skin is subject to pressure, friction, and sweating — commonly develops calluses, athlete's
foot, and cracked heels
Care Need Product
Cleansing Foot wash or mild soap; foot soak in warm water — softens
skin before exfoliation
Exfoliation Pumice stone, foot scrub, or creams with urea 20–40% /
salicylic acid — remove calluses and dead skin
Moisturizing Foot cream with urea 10–25%, lactic acid, shea butter — urea
is the best ingredient for very dry foot skin
Antifungal Clotrimazole, terbinafine foot powder/cream for athlete's foot
(tinea pedis)
Deodorization Foot powder with talc/cornstarch + zinc oxide + baking soda —
absorbs sweat, controls odor
Nail care Toenail trimming, antifungal treatment for nail infections
(onychomycosis)

8.7 Nails
• Nails are made of hard keratin produced by the nail matrix
Care Need Product
Strengthening Nail hardener with hydrolyzed keratin, calcium, formaldehyde-
free cross-linkers
Moisturizing Cuticle oil (jojoba oil, Vitamin E) — prevents dry, cracked
cuticles
Cleaning Nail brush, nail wash — removes debris under nails
Color Nail polish — must be toluene-free, formaldehyde-free (3-free
or 5-free formulas)
Removal Acetone or acetone-free nail polish remover (ethyl acetate-
based — less drying)
8.8 Eyes / Eyelids
• Eyelid skin is the thinnest skin on the body — requires extremely gentle products
Care Need Product
Makeup removal Micellar water, oil-based cleansing balm — no rubbing required
Moisturizing Eye cream with caffeine, peptides, retinol (low %), hyaluronic
acid
Dark circles Vitamin K, caffeine, retinol, niacinamide — reduce
pigmentation and puffiness
Puffiness Caffeine, green tea extract in eye gel — vasoconstriction
reduces puffiness

9. Quick Revision Table — All Topics at a Glance

Topic Key Points to Remember
Skin layers Epidermis (5 sub-layers) → Dermis (collagen, glands) →
Hypodermis (fat)
Acne Sebum + C. acnes bacteria + inflammation; Salicylic acid,
Benzoyl Peroxide, Retinol
Dandruff Malassezia yeast; Zinc Pyrithione, Ketoconazole, Salicylic acid
shampoo
Dry skin Low sebum + TEWL; Ceramides, Hyaluronic acid, Petrolatum,
Urea
Pigmentation Excess melanin; Kojic acid, Arbutin, Vitamin C, Niacinamide +
SPF essential
Wrinkles Lost collagen/elastin; Retinol, Peptides, Hyaluronic acid,
Sunscreen
Hair structure Shaft (cuticle/cortex/medulla) + Follicle (bulb, matrix, papilla)
Hair growth cycle Anagen 2-7yr (85%) → Catagen 2-3wk → Telogen 3-4mo
Dental caries S. mutans + acid demineralization; Fluoride toothpaste, Xylitol,
Chlorhexidine
Bleeding gums Plaque → gingivitis; Chlorhexidine mouthwash, Stannous
fluoride paste
Sensitive teeth Exposed dentinal tubules; Potassium Nitrate 5%, Arginine +
Calcium Carbonate
Mouth odor VSCs from bacteria on tongue; Zinc Chloride mouthwash,
Chlorine dioxide
Body odor Apocrine sweat + bacteria; Aluminium Chlorohydrate
(antiperspirant), Triclosan
Cosmetic dermatitis ICD + ACD; Patch test; Fragrance-free, hypoallergenic
products
Baby skin Thinner, higher absorption, higher pH, less melanin — needs
 ultra-mild products

— End of CO-2: Cosmeceuticals & Cosmetics Study Notes —

B. Pharm Semester 2 | All questions covered | Easy language for exam revision