X-Shot Ragefire Mod Guide

Allows for 2s - 3s lipo with adjustable rate of fire from 3-20 RPS and adjustable FPS from 70-
180 with a guide on 3D printed chains, ammo boxes and a barrel reduction.

BOM

Ragefire
[Link]: X-Shot Insanity Motorized Rage Fire by ZURU 72 Darts, Air Pocket Technology
Darts, Dart Storage, Blasting Power, Auto Feeding Belt, Tripod & Scope, Outdoor Toy for Boys,
Girls, Teens, Adults : Toys & Games x1

Flywheel Brushed Motor PWM 17.27

[Link] x1

Daybreak Flywheels (Pair) $16.00 USD [Link]

flywheels-pair?_pos=6&_sid=02d42adab&_ss=r x1
Flywheel Cage Motor Screw Set $1.00 USD [Link]
cage-screw-set-4x?_pos=1&_sid=61a6901c6&_ss=r x2
 OOD Kraken 130 $8.00 USD [Link]
_pos=2&_sid=61a6901c6&_ss=r x3

Worker Mini PWM Board (Red) $3.50 USD [Link]

red?_pos=1&_sid=e5c25e57d&_ss=r x1

XT60 Connector Male/Female Pair $2.00 USD [Link]

connector-nylon-male-female-pair?_pos=5&_sid=80753a8f8&_ss=r x1

IN4007 Rectifier Diode

[Link] x1

IRLB3034 New MOSFET

[Link] x1

10K Ohm Carbon Film Single Fixed Resistor

[Link] x1

Flywheel cage
[Link] x1

Motor shim for Kraken as pusher

[Link] x1
[Link]

OVONIC 3s Lipo Battery 35C 2200mAh 11.1V Lipo Battery with XT60 (largest that will
fit in gutted out site that come with ragefire)
[Link] x1

Lipo Charger
[Link] x1

16 AWG silicon wire

[Link] x10 ish feet?

Lots of filament

Super glue

Heat shrink tubing

 Tools
Phillips Screwdriver, Dremel with cutting tool, Soldering Iron, lighter, drill

Build Guide

I will start with the barrel reduction mod. It makes the blaster have a higher ROF by decreasing
resistance on the drive motor and increasing stability of the front end at higher speeds. It also
makes the blaster much more maneuverable.

Disassemble the blaster and remove the spinning front end. This can be done by removing
screw number 1 in the guide below and the inner orange barrel and outer black barrel. Remove
the inner orange piece and place to the side, then using a hacksaw, start cutting the four
“barrels” at the base of the barrel, one at a time so that your blade is parallel with the base, this
is shown by the red line on the left in the diagram below. You can then cut the next red line
while attempting to maintain an even distance between this cut and the rings for aesthetics.
Place the base that was cut off from the outer barrel onto the inner. Then take the front cut you
intended to use from the outer barrel and place it onto the inner barrel lined up in the way it will
be permanently attached. You can now see the orange inner piece will be sticking out much
farther than the outer. Mark a line on the outside of the inner barrel where it meets with the
outer, remove the inner barrel from the 2 sections of the outer and cut 10-15 mm further down
from the marked line. You can now use epoxy to attach the 2 sections of the outer barrel while
being aligned on the inner, then leave 24h to cure.

Now we can begin the internal mods, first I will reference what the internals look like
stock, modified and then a picture guide with explanations of each mod.
Modded Internals
 The PWM is quite large and a pain to fit in the shell but it is possible. It will require you
to completely cut out the battery tray and follow the cutting guide below the wiring guide.
I also found that I had to switch out the stock spring with a rubber band as getting it in
with the PWM was not going to happen. Cut 1 is necessary if you plan on replacing the
cage and 2-5 are necessary for making room to install a worker and large PWM. There
are also handles at the bottom of this document that take 21 amp switches so no mosfet
is required.

1. Start by taking the screws out in order, this will free up the rotating front, flywheel
cage, pinion section and main gearbox.

2. Cut out the battery tray completely

3. Cut red line 1 to make room for new cage

4. Prepare the new printed flywheel cage by attaching the motors, screws,
flywheels and soldering 2 parallel connection wires

5. Carefully remove the rest of the remaining stock wires from the blaster

6. Run approx. 12 inches of + and - wire from the flywheel cage to determine they
are spinning the right way and switch if necessary. Mark the halfway point on the
12 inches of wires and strip ¼ inch of silicon at that mark from both + and -.
Soldor the line end of the diode to + and the other to -.

leave them to the side for later. Attach the new cage using the silicon inserts
already on the stock cage and make sure that the wires stay out of the way of the
mechanical linkage to the rotating barrel.

7. Remove the scroll wheel, the axel its on and the plastic pinion and put them to
the side. Then remove the plastic cover held on by screws 6 and 7

8. You can now remove the gearbox that was held on by screws 8, 9 and 10.
Remove the orange clip and stock motor from the gearbox. Put the kraken into
the printed motor shim and carefully remove the pinion gear from the stock motor
and place it on the kraken. You can now place the kraken in shim into the motor
slot, spin the transfer linkage at the side to confirm the gears are meshing
properly.

9. Soldor approx. 8-10 inches of + and - to the Kraken in the gearbox and confirm
that it is spinning the proper direction with a battery test. Once confirmed, you
can place the wires to the side for now. The gearbox is ready to screw back onto
body as well as the axel, pinion and plastic cover from step 7
10. We are now ready to drill the holes into the side for the 2 potentiometers for the
two PWM’s. These are marked by a red 4 and 5 in the diagram above.

11. Take the 2 + and - wires from the drive motor and connect them to the “motor”
side of the Worker PWM, then run approx. 4 inches of + and - to the “DC in” side
and carefully place the worker PWM in hole 5 and bolt it through the other side.
Keep the 4 inches of + and - connected to “DC in” easily accessible.

12. Now we can start preparing the rest of the wiring by first soldering the 10k
resistor across the G and S pins of the mosfet,

Soldering approx 8 inches of - to the S pin with the other end going to the - of the
XT60.

You can now cut a 2 inch and 4 inch signal wire, place them parallel touching
next to each other and solder the 2 ends together. Then solder the 2 connected
ends to the D pin on the Mosfet

Finally, 3 inches of - are soldered to the G, we can now take bunch of wires and
put it to the side

13. Now you can put in the large PWM before finishing the wiring, this will take
cutting out the spring post labeled 2 and the back of the sprocket clutch labeled
3.

You can now route the larger PWM’s potentiometer through hole 4 on the
diagram and bolt it through the other side

Next you will want to route the + and - wires from the flywheels through the
blaster in ideally the same position they were located stock. Once they are routed
in a way that doesn't interact with the transfer linkages, you can connect the +
and - wires to the “motor” connectors on the larger PWM. Now take approx 12
inches of + and connect it into the + of the “power” connector on the larger PWM.
Then take the end of the longer wire soldered to pin D on the mosfet and put it
into the - of the connector from the larger PWM

14. Now the hardest part, find the very tiny window in which the large PWM can fit
inside the blaster which only seems to be in the configuration I have in the picture
above. Make sure the + wire and mosfet are still accessible from the large PWM
and, make sure the blaster can still close properly
15. Now we can finish the wiring, take the shorter wire from the D pin and solder it to
the “C” of the fire switch

Solder a 3 inch + to the “C” of the rev switch

Take the remaining - wire from the Worker PWM for the drive motor and solder it
to the “NC” of the rev switch.

Take the remaining + wire from the Worker PWM and solder it to the + lead
coming from the “power” section on the larger PWM

Take the 2 + leads mentioned above and solder them to the 3 inch + from “C” of
the rev switch and then take this 3 wire connection and add it to the middle of the
12 inches of + coming from the larger PWM in step 13 by stripping a small
section where the spacing make sense. Solder the end of the long + to the + on
the XT60 and your + wires are now done

16. You may need to use a rubber band for the trigger as the PWM will be in the
way. The blaster should be ready to close up, make sure all exposed wires are
covered. I would recommend hot gluing the wires and PWM in place
 Here is a link to the best printed chain I have found by far

The only downside is that you have to glue every clip to every tube with ideally
superglue but it is well worth it, they can keep up with the blasters max rate of fire. Many
can be printed at once, as pictured.
Xshot Ragefire Chain (Modular Version) THANGS REUPLOAD by Lord_draconical -
Thingiverse All Credit goes to KptnAutismus on thangs for the original design.
 Here is a link to a range of sizes in ammo boxes

Xshot Ragefire Ammo Box by Bruce LeedleLeedleLeedleLee | Download free STL

model | [Link]

XShot Ragefire 120 round extended ammo box, Bruce Leedle Remix by Evan |
Download free STL model | [Link]
 Printable handles that take 21 amp microswitches

X shot ragefire KAC chainsaw grip by NotBatman | Download free STL model |
[Link]

Xshot Ragefire Chainsaw-style rear grip V1 by dannyL | Download free STL model |
[Link]

QOL Mods
Xshot Ragefire - Dual Stage Cage
Xshot Ragefire - Dual Stage Cage by Accipiter Tachiro | Download free STL model |
[Link]

X-Shot Ragefire extended Battery Door

X-Shot Ragefire extended Battery Door by [Link] | Download free STL model |
[Link]

XShot Insanity XL Handles

XShot Insanity XL Handles by Operation_Effects - Thingiverse

Many more good mods

"xshot insanity ragefire" 3D Models to Print - yeggi