🧵 Basic Rule
Fabric thickness → decides the needle size
Fabric structure → decides the needle type
Fabric structure means how the fabric is made or constructed from yarns
(threads).In simple words, it is the arrangement of threads inside the fabric.
✅ Simple way to understand
Fabric structure How threads are arranged
Woven Threads cross each other
Knit Threads form loops
Non-woven Fibers pressed together
Woven:
Knit:
Non Woven:
Non-woven fabrics are materials created by bonding fibers mechanically,
thermally, or chemically rather than weaving or knitting.
Common examples include disposable masks, shopping bags, wet wipes,
diapers, medical gowns, tea bags, upholstery batting, felt, interfacing, and
filtration materials
Felt
Crafts (toys, decorations)
Hats and bags
Shoe insoles
Cushion padding
Appliqué work on garments
Upholstery Batting
Sofas and chairs padding
Headboards and Cushions
Quilts and padded items
Giving a smooth, cushioned look to furniture or quilts
1️⃣ Universal Needle (Most Common)
This is the basic needle used for normal fabrics.
Good for cotton, polyester, and simple fabrics.
Usually used by beginners.
Example fabrics:
👗 cotton dresses, shirts, simple tops.
2️⃣ Ballpoint Needle
Used for stretch fabrics.
The tip is slightly rounded, so it doesn’t damage knitted fabric.
Example fabrics:
👕 T-shirts
🧘 leggings
🩱 knit fabrics
3️⃣ Sharp / Microtex Needle
Used for very thin or delicate fabrics.
The tip is very sharp, so it stitches neatly.
Example fabrics:
✨ silk
✨ chiffon
✨ organza
4️⃣ Jeans / Denim Needle
Used for very thick fabrics.
The needle is stronger and thicker.
Example fabrics:
👖 denim jeans
🧥 canvas
👜 thick bags
5️⃣ Leather Needle
Used for leather or artificial leather.
The tip is shaped like a small blade to pierce leather.
Example fabrics:
🧥 leather jackets
👜 leather bags
✅ Important thing to remember (very basic rule):
Fabric type Needle type
Normal fabric Universal needle
Stretch fabric Ballpoint needle
Fabric type Needle type
Thin fabric Sharp/Microtex needle
Thick fabric Jeans/Denim needle
✅ Simple trick to identify thin fabrics:
If the fabric is see-through or very light, it is usually a thin fabric.
✅ Simple summary
Most needles → size engraved on the shank
If not visible → check the needle packet
In India, sewing machine needles usually follow the European size system (NM
numbers). You will commonly see these sizes printed on needle packets used in
tailoring and fashion design. 🧵
Here are the most common sewing needle sizes used in India:
Needle Size (NM) Also Written As Used For Fabric Type
60 8 Very thin fabrics
65 9 Chiffon, net
70 10 Silk, soft fabrics
75 11 Light cotton
80 12 Cotton, polyester
90 14 Medium fabrics (most commonly used)
100 16 Thick fabrics
110 18 Denim, canvas
120 19 Very heavy fabrics
✅ Simple way to remember
Small number → thin needle → thin fabric
Big number → thick needle → thick fabric
Example:
Size 70 / 75 → silk, chiffon 👗
Size 80 / 90 → cotton shirts, kurtis 👚
Size 100 / 110 → jeans, bags 👖
💡 Most tailors in India commonly use:
Size 11 (75)
Size 14 (90)
Size 16 (100)
These cover most garments like blouses, kurtis, shirts, and pants.