13.15.

1 Module Code: EET 05212

13.15.2 Module Name: Maintenance and Repair of A.C Machines
13.15.3 Number of Credit: 8
13.15.4 Sub-enabling Outcomes:
1.5.1 Apply maintenance and repair procedures on A.C. electric motors.
1.5.2 Apply maintenance and repair procedures on A.C. generators (alternators).
1.5.3 Apply maintenance and repair procedures on transformers.
13.15.5 Pre-requisite Module: EET 05111 Electrical Installation Practice
13.15.6 Learning Context: Lectures, Assignments, Practical, Guided independent study
13.15.7 Learning Materials: Text books, handouts, lecture notes, overhead projector, exercise
kits
13.15.8 Integrated Methods of Assessment:
Continuous Assessments: 40%
Semester Examination: 60%
13.15.9 References:
1. Randy Barnelt, John Paschal (2000): Introduction to Electrical Maintenance, Ec & M
Books.
2. Philip Kiameh (2003): Electrical Equipment Handbook: Troubleshooting and
Maintenance, McGraw Hill.
3. The Institution of Electrical Engineers (1999): Electrical Maintenance, IEE
4. K.B. Bhatia (1997): Fundamentals of Maintenance of Electrical Equipment, Khanna
Publishers
5. S.L. Bhatia: Handbook of Electrical Engineering, Khanna Publishers

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 INTRODUCTION

Electric Motors need maintenance regularly in order to avoid failure and prolong their lifespan.
Generally, motors and motor parts should be maintained and tested at least every 6 months.
Then only it is possible to maintain a motor’s life and efficiency. We are going to deal with three
kinds of maintenance:
1. Preventive maintenance – to prevent operating problems and make sure that the motor
continuously provides reliable operation.
2. Predictive maintenance – to ensure that the right kind of maintenance is carried out at
the right time.
3. Reactive maintenance – to repair and replace the motor when a failure occurs.

Factors which affect the life span of the motor due to lack of maintenance is shown in the figure
below,

Electric motor maintenance

Preventive Maintenance
Preventive maintenance is electric motor maintenance that is done on a regular basis and can
help prevent motors to fail and thus, prevent unexpected production stops. Some of the most
important elements included in preventive maintenance are.

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  Motor ventilation
 Humidity and condensation
 Loose connections
 Voltage and current imbalance
 Under voltage and overvoltage
 Bearings, Bearing life, Bearing lubrication
 Lubrication type, Lubrication Intervals
Predictive Maintenance
The objective of predictive maintenance of electric motor maintenance is to reduce maintenance
costs by detecting problems at an early stage and deal with them.
Observations of motor temperature, vibrations, etc. are only a few examples of data that can help
predict when the motor needs to be repaired or replaced. Following are some of the tests that
provide the necessary data about the state of the motor.
 Bearing considerations
 Insulation considerations
 Ground insulation test
 Cleaning and drying stator windings
 Surge test
 High potential testing – HIPOT
 DC high potential ground test
 AC high potential phase to ground test and phase-to-phase test
 Motor temperature
 Thermo graphic inspection
Reactive Maintenance
When motors fail, it is important to examine the motor and find out where in the motor it
happened and why it happened. Normally, good preventive maintenance can prevent failure.
If the failure is caused by a weak component or inadequate maintenance, then all similar
equipment has to be examined in order to prevent the same failure from occurring elsewhere in
the motor or in the entire system.

REPAIR OF A.C MOTOR

AC motors are generally reliable and last a long time before needing to be replaced. The only
user-serviceable parts on an AC motor are the brushes and the bearings; if the internal
windings burn out, your AC motor needs to be checked out professionally.
Troubleshooting problems on your AC motor is relatively straightforward, and providing you
have reasonable do-it-yourself abilities, repairing it is not too difficult.

THINGS YOU WILL NEED

 Wrench
 Replacement bearings
 Clean cloth
 Lubricant (SAE 10)
 Screwdriver

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 Replacement brushes

Initial Troubleshooting

1. Turn on your AC motor, if it operates. If it doesn’t it’s either the brushes or the
windings that are causing the problem. You can replace the brushes, but if it’s the
windings, it’s not a DIY task. However, new brushes are inexpensive and it’s worth
checking them out, so follow the steps in Section 3.
2. Listen to the sound your AC motor makes, if it operates. Worn bearings make a loud
metallic grating and rattling sound. Follow the steps in Section 2 to replace the bearings
and repair your AC motor.
3. Turn off your AC motor. Disconnect the motor from the electricity supply before
proceeding to repair it.

Replace AC Motor Bearings

1. Use a wrench and remove the four or six bolts that connect the two halves of the AC
motor. Hold the top half of the AC motor using your hands and lift it off the bottom
half then rotate it 180 degrees so it is sitting next to the bottom half and you are looking
at the internal parts of the motor.
2. Lift off the armature from the bottom half of the motor and carefully place it to one
side. You can now access the bearings that are located where the armature rests at the
front and back of the AC motor. You also can see the bearings located in the same
position on the top half.
3. Pry out the bearings on the top and bottom half of the AC motor -- one set at the front
and back of each half. Slide a flathead screwdriver between the bearing and the outer
casing and you will find you can lift them off easily. Wipe the place where the bearings
were situated using a clean cloth.
4. Smear a little lubricant on your cloth and wipe the area where the bearings were. Put
your new bearings into the same place. Slide each bearing in using your fingers to
position them correctly.
5. Replace the armature onto the bottom bearings. Put the top half of the AC motor casing
back on the bottom half. Put the bolts back into the holes on the casing. Tighten the
bolts using a wrench. Rotate the armature several times backward and forward to bed in
the bearings using your hands.

Check and Replace Brushes

1. Locate the wires that connect the brushes and the AC motor connecting terminals.
There is one on each side of the motor either at the front or the back. Remove the
screws holding the wires from the brushes onto the motor terminals using a screwdriver
then remove the wires from the terminals so the wires are loose.
2. Insert a pair of long-nosed pliers into the brush holders so you can remove the clips
holding the brushes in place. Pull out the clips carefully as there are springs under the
clips that can spring out and easily get lost. Remove the springs from the brush holders

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 using the pliers, then use your fingers to pull on the wires attached to the brushes inside
the brush holder so you can remove the brushes.
3. Slide new brushes into the brush holders making sure the wires attached to them remain
outside the brush holder.
4. Insert the springs into the brush holders then push them farther in and hold them in
place using your fingers or a small screwdriver. Keep holding the springs in place and
insert the clip into the brush holder using the pliers so the brushes and springs are held
securely.
5. Place the ends of the wires on the opposite side from the brushes onto the AC motor
terminals. Replace the screws into the screw holes and then tighten them using a
screwdriver.

The Drip Cap

 AC motors are generally reliable and last a long time before needing to be replaced.
 Troubleshooting problems on your AC motor is relatively straightforward, and
providing you have reasonable do-it-yourself abilities, repairing it is not too difficult.
 You can replace the brushes, but if it’s the windings, it’s not a DIY task.
 Worn bearings make a loud metallic grating and rattling sound.
 Tighten the bolts using a wrench.
 Insert a pair of long-nosed pliers into the brush holders so you can remove the clips
holding the brushes in place.
 Remove the springs from the brush holders using the pliers, then use your fingers to
pull on the wires attached to the brushes inside the brush holder so you can remove the
brushes.
 Place the ends of the wires on the opposite side from the brushes onto the AC motor
terminals.

How to Replace Electric Motor Bearings

Electric motor bearings enable the armature inside the motor casing to rotate smoothly.
Because the bearings are continuously in contact with the armature spindle they need replacing
every so often. Electric motor bearings are inexpensive, but getting someone to replace them
for you increases the cost considerably. If you have a basic tool kit, you can keep down the
cost by replacing the electric motor bearings yourself.

Electric motor bearings occasionally need replacing.

Step 1

Make sure that the electric motor is disconnected from the power supply before you replace the
bearings. Locate the screws or bolts around the edge of the motor that keep the two halves of
the casing together. Expect to find four or six screws or bolts.

Step 2

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Remove the screws or bolts using a screwdriver or wrench. Put the screws or bolts somewhere
safe.

Step 3

Use a flat head screwdriver and gently pry the two halves of the motor casing apart. Lift off the
top half of the motor casing and lay it next to the bottom half. You can’t separate the two
halves completely, because there is internal wiring connecting the halves.

Step 4

Hold one end of the armature using one hand and hold the other end with your other hand. Lift
the armature directly upward and put it to one side. The armature is the central spindle that has
wire winding around the central part. As you lift the armature upward, expect the brushes that
touch the commutator at the front of the armature to spring together.

Step 5

Locate the bearings on the front and back of the two halves of the motor casing. There are a
total of four bearings. Use a small flat head screwdriver and gently pry out the bearings. Be
careful not to scratch the area where they are seated.

Step 6

Wipe the sleeves where the bearings fit using a clean dry cloth. Rub the sleeves using a small
amount of engine oil. Wipe off any excess. The oil makes it easier to fit the new bearings.

Step 7

Put the new bearings into the sleeves on the motor casing. Gently push them into place until
they are seated tightly.

Step 8

Push the two motor brushes apart. Use your fingers to do this and then replace the armature
onto the bottom half of the motor casing. As the armature sits on the bearings, release the
brushes so they connect with the commutator.

Step 9

Rotate the armature around carefully so it beds in the lower brushes. Replace the top half of the
motor casing. Replace the screws or bolts and tighten them. Rotate the armature several times
using your fingers. This beds in all the brushes. Reconnect the electricity supply. Turn on the
electric motor.

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 How to Test Motor Brushes

Brushes on an electric motor are effectively the electrical conductors to the motor's armature.
Electricity from the motors terminals is feed through copper wires attached to carbon brushes.
The brushes are held in position on opposite sides of the armature and touch a metal ring
inducing electricity into the armature windings causing the armature to rotate. If the brushes
are worn, your motor won't operate properly, so occasionally testing them ensures they can be
replaced, before your motor stops working.

Turn off the power before testing your motor brushes.

1. Turn off the power to your electric motor, before attempting to test the brushes. Locate
the two brush holders, one on each side of the armature either on the front or rear of the
motor. Two copper wires extend from the brushes and connect to the terminals on the
motor, so they're easy to identify.
2. Use a pair of long-nosed pliers and remove the retaining clip that holds the one of the
brushes in place. Attach your piers to the copper wire that connects to the brush and
gently pull. A spring comes out of the brush holder, followed by the brush.
3. Check the length of the carbon brush against the size of the brush holder. The brush
should be 50 percent or more of the length of the brush holder. If it's less than 50
percent it needs replacing.
4. Repeat the process on the other brush. If either of the brushes needs replacing, then
always replace them as a pair. If they don't need replacing then push the brushes into
the brush holders. Insert the springs and then replace the retaining clips using your
pliers. If they need replacing, take the old brushes along to an electrical store, so you
get exact replacements then follow the procedure for replacing then as above.

THINGS YOU WILL NEED

 Replacement belt
 Screwdriver

TIP

Check your model number before purchasing a belt. Belts are specific to individual models.

1. The belt is in place.

2. Thread the belt around the motor shaft by stretching the belt with the screwdriver.
3. Test the connection by spinning the brush drum. Make sure the belt does not pop off
and spins the motor shaft. Replace the bottom cover.

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SUBMERSIBLE WATER PUMP MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

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9
How to Test a Submersible Pump Motor

Submersible pump motors are designed for use under water, such as a bore hole well, ponds or
other water feature. Submersible pumps draw quantities of water into the pumping device
through one pipe and then force the water out of the pump via another pipe. They operate the
same way as any other electrical motor, except the electrical motor is contained in a waterproof
casing, while a slotted wheel is connected to the rotor shaft and contained in a separate part of
the pump. If you find your pump motor isn't operating, you need to remove it from the water so
you can test it.

Test your submersible pump motor using a voltmeter.

1. Turn off the power supply to your submersible pump motor before testing it. Remove
the outer cover on the pump motor by using a screwdriver to remove the screws. Lift
off the cover using your hands, once the screws are removed.
2. Remove the internal waterproof cover that protects the submersible pump motor.
Remove the screws from the cover using a screwdriver, then carefully lift off the cover.
Do not remove the rubber seal between the motor cover and the base unit; otherwise,
water will enter the motor once you replace the cover and put it back in the water.
3. Locate the two wired terminals on the pump motor. One is labeled "+" for positive the
other "-" for negative. Read the label on the side of the pump motor to find out the
voltage it uses to operate.
4. Turn on your voltmeter. Connect the submersible pump to the power supply and turn on
the pump.
5. Test that power is getting to your pump motor using the voltmeter. The voltmeter has
two wires connected to it that have metal sensors on the ends. One wire is black for
negative; the other red for positive. Place the sensor on the end of the black wire on the
negative terminal of the pump motor then place the sensor on the end of the red wire
onto the positive terminal of the pump motor.
6. Read the voltmeter display. If it reads zero, or just above, it means that power isn't
getting to the motor, so you need to check and replace the fuse in the plug that connects
to the power supply. If you get a reading, it is the same as the labeled voltage on the
pump motor and means that power is getting to the motor. Remove the voltmeter
sensors from the motor terminals.
7. Turn the wheel on the pump motor using your hand. If you feel resistance and can't
move the wheel, it means that the pump motor is trying to operate but has seized. Turn
off the power supply and try turning the wheel again. You can often release it by
turning it a few times using your hands.
8. Turn on the power again to test if the motor operates. If it does, then the problem is
solved. If it doesn't, or you are not able to get the wheel to turn, it's likely that there is a
fault within the pump motor, which you need to get checked out by a specialist.

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How to Clean and Maintain Ceiling & Exhaust Fans

Exhaust and ceiling fans make your home more comfortable and can even help lower your
household energy consumption. They’re also easily taken for granted—and if you aren’t
routinely doing fan maintenance, they may wear out more quickly or malfunction. Knowing how
to clean exhaust fans and ceiling fans is key to preserving good-working condition. Fortunately,
it only takes a little time and effort to maintain them. Follow these exhaust fan and ceiling fan
maintenance tips to keep your fans in great shape.

Exhaust Fan Maintenance

Most homes only have exhaust fans in bathrooms where they help to control humidity and
freshen the air. Like any fan, exhaust fans suck up particles that collect on the blades and motors.
If this buildup isn’t periodically removed with thorough exhaust fan cleaning, it can negatively
affect the fan’s function and reduce its lifespan. Follow these steps to clean exhaust fans properly
in your home:

1. Remove the Exhaust Cover

Standing on a sturdy ladder or stepstool, remove the exhaust fan cover. This is usually held in
place with metal tension clips that need to be squeezed for removal—no tools required! On some
models, the cover may be held in place with screws. The cover itself can be thoroughly cleaned
with dish soap and warm water.

2. Vacuum Out Dust

With the fan blades and motor exposed, use a vacuum wand attachment to remove as much dust
as possible. This cleaning wand can generally be found as an extension on your vacuum cleaner.

3. Wipe the Blades with a Dusting Cloth

Use a dry dusting cloth to carefully remove any remaining dust from the blades and other
internal components. For more stubborn dirt, try using a damp cloth to clean. After that, simply
replace the cover, and your fan is clean and ready. Exhaust fan maintenance should be a snap and
will help save you time and money in the long run!

Ceiling Fan Maintenance

Like exhaust fans, ceiling fans can benefit from periodic cleaning. Follow these ceiling fan
maintenance tips to learn how to clean a fan motor, wipe down fan blades, and lubricate fan
bearings to keep all components in working order.

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1. Vacuum and Dust the Fan

Use a vacuum wand attachment or feather duster to remove all dust from the blades and exposed
parts of the fan. A large amount of dust can accumulate on ceiling fans. You may want to wear a
face mask while cleaning to help avoid breathing in dust. Be sure to stand on something stable if
you can’t reach from the floor.

Another popular home hack is to clean the blades with an old pillowcase. Simply wrap a fan
blade with a pillowcase and apply pressure to the blade to wipe off dust into the case. Repeat
these steps for each blade. Once you’re done, pound the dust out from the pillowcase before
washing it for another use.

You may also use a damp cloth to wipe each blade. Be sure to rinse the cloth after every blade to
get rid of excess dust.

2. Tighten Screws

If you hear rattling while your fan is turned on, there’s a chance a screw or other part of the fan
system is loose. Check all components and tighten anything that may have come loose with a
screwdriver. Additionally, check for any missing screws and replace to ensure your ceiling fan is
secure.

3. Clean the Fan Motor

An essential part of your ceiling fan maintenance is to periodically check the motor. The ceiling
fan motor’s cover should keep most dust out, but some may still get in. To clean the motor,
simply apply a vacuum to the slits on the top of the motor cover. This should help remove the
excess dust from your fan’s motor.

4. Lubricate Ceiling Fan Bearings

The final step in fan maintenance is lubrication. Many fans, especially newer models, are
designed to be maintenance-free and never require oiling. Others may have a small reservoir on
top of the motor where you should add a few drops of machine oil from time to time.

The best way to find out which kind of ceiling fan you have is to refer to the owner’s manual. If
you no longer have this, look for an oil reservoir. Typically, there’s a small hole at the top of the
fan to insert the lubricating motor oil. You can also contact the manufacturer with the model
number to inquire about fan lubrication.

Ceiling fans with sealed motors may be more difficult to lubricate.

To clean a sealed motor:

 Shut off electricity then disconnect and remove the fan from the ceiling.
 Separate the fan blades from the motor base.

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  Open the motor shell.
 When the top and bottom bearings are exposed, you should be able to add the lubrication.

Typically, newer ceiling fans shouldn’t need regular lubrication, but there may be times when it
is required. If you hear squeaking or grinding while the fan is on, it might need lubrication. For
assistance with lubricating your ceiling fan, contact a professional.

AC Generator Maintenance Tips

It's important to keep the AC generator in your RV or auto well maintained, for optimum
performance. Maintenance procedures and time intervals vary from manufacturer to
manufacturer. Make sure to refer to the owner's manual for your particular generator and follow
the recommended procedures carefully.

Tips to Keep Your AC Generator Running Smoothly:

Without a fully-charged battery and clean, tight electrical connections, starting the generator will
be difficult or impossible. The battery electrolyte level should be checked regularly and the cable
terminals and battery posts cleaned at least on a yearly basis.

Steps to Remove Battery Corrosion:

1. Remove the terminals from the battery posts using a battery-terminal puller if necessary.
2. Soak the terminals in a mixture of 1 quart of water and ½ cup of baking soda.
3. Mix another quart of water and ½ cup baking soda and pour over battery top. (Allow this
mixture about five minutes to work). Make sure that none of the battery-cell caps- if so
equipped- are open. If the baking soda mixture enters the cells, it will reduce the acid
strength, possibly damaging the cell.
4. Rinse the terminals and battery top with clean water, and then dry.
5. A battery post/ terminal brush should be used to thoroughly clean the inside of the
terminal fittings and the outside of the posts.
6. Use a light grease or commercially available terminal protectant on the terminals and
posts; install terminals to posts and tighten firmly.
Most manufacturers recommend that oil changes should be performed every 100 hours or once
every twelve months. Drain the oil while the engine is warm, after running the generator at half
load for thirty minutes.

Steps to Drain the Oil and Change the Filter:

1. Stop the AC generator.

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 2. With the drain pan under the AC generator, remove the drain plug if so equipped, or open
the drive valve. Drain the oil completely and dispose of properly.
3. Remove the old oil filter.
4. Clean the filter base on the engine.
5. Wipe the film of clean oil onto the new filter's gasket.
6. Screw a new filter to the base until the gasket contacts, and then tighten an additional
half-turn.
7. Replace the drain plug or close the drain valve.
8. Refill the crankcase to the proper level with the recommended grade and weight of oil for
the operational service temperature expected.
9. Start the engine and run for a few minutes, checking for leaks at filter base and drain plug
or valve. Re-check oil level.
10. Record the hour-meter time of the oil change in a log to keep for future reference.
Steps to Replace Spark Plugs:

1. Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket, either a 5/8 inch or 13/16 inch,
depending on the spark plug type.
2. Make sure that the gasket-seating surface of the cylinder head is clean.
3. Set the plug gap to .025 inch or as specified by the manufacturer.
4. Tighten the spark plug carefully. AC generators use an aluminum cylinder head and the
threads are prone to stripping if over tightened. If you are using a torque wrench, tighten
the plug to 10 to 15 foot-pounds.

THE TYPES OF GENERATORS AND PROPER MAINTENANCE

What does a generator do?
Electric generators are, essentially, life savers. They are backup power sources that convert fuel
supply—usually propane, diesel or gasoline, into electrical energy. They are the primary sources
of electrical supply during power outages. This energy is used in an external circuit. Unlike
standby generators, the following are not permanently installed in one place, so they’re easy to
start.

Types of Generators

There are three main types of generators: portable, inverter and standby. Despite their
differences, all these generators should undergo similar generator maintenance to ensure long-

14
 term usability, and similar safety precautions should be taken to reduce the hazards posed by
their operation.
Portable Generator

A portable generator is powered by gas or diesel fuel and can provide temporary electrical
power.

Here are some characteristics to note about these types of generators:

 Uses a combustion engine to conduct electricity.

 Can plug into electrical appliances or tools via its sockets.

 Can be wired into a facility’s subpanels.

 Can be used in remote sites.

 Has enough power to run a television, freezer and refrigerator.

 The engine should run at 3600 rpm to render the standard 60 Hz of current.

 Use a governor to control the engine’s speed.

 Can power tools and lights.

Inverter Generator

An inverter generator uses an engine connected to an alternator to produce AC power. It also

uses a rectifier unlike other generators to convert the AC power into DC power.

Here are some characteristics to note about these types of generators:

 Relies on high-tech magnets.

 Uses advanced electronic circuitry.

 Undergoes three phases to produce electricity.

 Outputs AC current, convert it to DC current and finally invert it to AC.

 Maintains a constant flowing of current to an appliance.

 Is more energy-efficient, as the engine speed adjusts itself according to how much power
is needed.

 Its AC can be set to any voltage and frequency when used with proper equipment.

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 Tends to be little and lightweight.

 Can fit into a car, RV or boat.

Standby Generator

A standby generator is an electrical system that operates with an automatic transfer switch that
commands it to power a device up during power loss.

Here are some characteristics to note about these types of generators:

 Operates automatically.

 Delivers permanent power protection.

 Has two components: a standby generator and an automatic transfer switch.

 Can operate on liquid propane or natural gas.

 Will run on the fuel type already in use in the facility or home.

 Uses an internal combustion engine.

 Senses the power loss within seconds and boots up electricity so that power loss is felt
very briefly.

 Executes automatic weekly self-tests to see that it is properly reacting to a power loss.

 Is constantly monitoring utility power.

 Used in safety systems for elevators, standby lighting, medical and life support
equipment and fire protection systems.

Best Generator for Different Outages

Generator Type Best Use

Portable Generator Refrigerators, spray gun systems, nail guns

Inverter Generator Car batteries, laptops

Standby Generator Emergency settings, hospital machinery

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 Generator Maintenance

Maintaining a generator is a relatively similar process among the three major types of engines.
First, it is vital to follow the maintenance schedule of the manufacturer with each type of
generator. A routine maintenance practice is that of general inspection. Inspections consist of
checking for leaks, assessing oil and coolant levels, glancing at the belts and hoses and checking
the battery terminals and cables. It is important to inspect the oil as well, as it must be changed
regularly. Oil change frequency depends on the manufacturer, how often the generator is used
and your work environment. Typically, it is recommended you change the oil after 100 hours of
operation, especially if the generator uses diesel.

Generator maintenance requires:

 Annual fuel cleaning and filtering, as diesel fuel degrades quickly. After a few weeks of
operation, diesel fuel degrades via contamination of water and microbes, resulting in clogged fuel
lines and filters. Fuel cleaning involves using biocides annually in all generators except for the
standby generator, in which it will attract moisture.

 The cooling system to be maintained, which requires checking the coolant level at
existing intervals. This must be done during shutdown periods.

 Checking for battery power; this is especially true for standby generators, as battery
issues are their primary cause of failure. Make sure the batteries are robust and charged enough to
last long so as to not incur any start-up hitches for the generator.

 Regular testing to inform of the battery’s current status. Testing involves checking the
electrolyte levels and specific gravity of the batteries. The batteries themselves also must be clean.

Further Care and Maintenance of Generators

Besides the above best practices, it is also important to exorcise the generator on a weekly basis
for 30 minutes under load. This will charge the battery, remove excess wetness, lubricate the
engine and filter the fuel and foil. Any loose pieces found anywhere on the generator must be
placed securely in.

You should also keep records of inspections and tests for future inspections and scrutiny. These
records will allow you to stay in the know of your generator’s state.

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REPAIR OF AC GENERATOR
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
Test procedures recommended in this manual assume that the reader is fully conversant with
electrical safety principles, and is familiar with the operation of the various test instruments. DO
NOT attempt to work on live equipment if you are not qualified or experienced in this work.
Before testing the generating set, read the generating set Installation Manual, and this Fault
Finding Manual, and become familiar with it and the equipment.

SAFE AND EFFICIENT OPERATION CAN ONLY BE ACHIEVED IF THE

EQUIPMENT IS CORRECTLY INSTALLED, OPERATED AND MAINTAINED.

ELECTRICAL SHOCK CAN CAUSE SEVERE PERSONAL INJURY OR DEATH.

• Ensure installation meets all applicable safety and local electrical codes. Have all installations
performed by qualified Installation technicians.
• Do not operate the generator with protective covers, access covers or terminal box covers
removed.
• Disable engine starting circuits before carrying out maintenance.
• Disable closing circuits and/or place warning notices on any circuit breakers normally used for
connection to the mains or other generators, to avoid accidental closure.

TESTING "LIVE" EQUIPMENT

It is essential that all test instruments are regularly checked for safety, and any connection leads,
probes, or clips, are checked to ensure that they are suitable for the voltage levels being tested.
Never attempt to test a "LIVE" generator unless there is another competent person present who
can switch off the power supply or shut down the engine in an emergency.
Never expose "LIVE" connections unless you have created a safe working area around you.
Make sure you have made all other persons in the immediate area fully aware of what you are
doing.

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 FAULT FINDING MANUAL

RECOMMENDED METERING AND TEST INSTRUMENTS

Item 1 - Multimeter
The Multimeter is a comprehensive test instrument for measuring voltage, current and resistance.
It should be capable of measuring the following ranges:-
Voltage A C 0-250-500-1000 Volts
Voltage D C 0-25-100-250 Volts
Amperes D C 0-10 Amps
D C Resistance 0-10k (ohms) or 0-2k (ohms)
0-100k (ohms) or 0-20k (ohms)
0-1M (ohms) or 0-200k (ohms)
Item 2 – Tachometer or Frequency meter
This instrument is for measuring the shaft speed of the alternator and should be capable of
measuring speeds between 0 and 5000 revolutions per minute, (RPM). An alternative to the
tachometer is the frequency meter
Item 3 – Megger (Insulation test meter)
This instrument generates a voltage of 500V or 1000V, and is used to measure the resistance
value of the insulation to earth (ground). It may be an electronic push button type, or a hand
cranked generator type.
Item 4 - Clip-On Ammeter (Clampmeter)
Used to measure A C current, it consists of a pair of callipers, which are clamped around the
conductor, and by means of a transformer action, gives an indication of the amperes flowing in
the conductor. Useful ranges to have on this meter are:-
A C Amps 0-10-50-100-250-500-1000
Voltage and Current (Amperes)
An AC Generator is designed to produce a voltage level suitable for the load to which it is
connected. The Generator control circuits are designed to automatically maintain this voltage
level as the load is increased or decreased.
Sudden large changes in loading will produce temporary changes in the voltage. The Automatic
Voltage Regulator (AVR) is designed to recover to a stable condition as quickly as possible.
The current drawn from the AC Generator is determined by the amount of load connected to it.
Current creates a temperature rise in the windings, hence the requirement for drawing air through
the AC Generator by means of the cooling fan. If the full load rated current is exceeded on any

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phase of the main stator windings, it will result in overheating in this winding. Similarly, any
restriction in the flow of air through the machine will result in a rapid increase in the temperature
of the windings.
Frequency (Hz) and Speed (RPM)
An AC Generator is a constant speed device, and should not be operated at speeds above 4% of
the rated speed, or more than 1% below the rated speed.
Load changes will create temporary changes in the speed, but the engine must be capable of
returning to the steady state condition within a few seconds. The shaft speed requirements for the
AC Generator are determined by:-
(a) The frequency, (Hz), requirements of the load
(b) The number of poles (main rotors), in the generator

This can be shown more clearly in a chart: -

Frequency (Hz) Speed (R.P.M) No. of poles (rotor coils)

50 1500 4
60 1800 4
50 1000 6
60 1200 6
50 3000 2
60 3600 2

Resistances - measuring component values

When fault finding it is necessary to measure the resistance values of components and windings,
and compare them with known normal values, in order to identify a faulty winding. The normal
resistances of the windings are given in the winding resistance charts, in the generator
installation and maintenance handbooks, service and maintenance section.
Resistance values above 10 ohms can be measured accurately with a multimeter. Between 0.5
and 5 ohms a multimeter has a limited accuracy, and other test methods may be adopted.

Resistances between 0.5 and 5 Ohms

The resistance value of a winding such as a brushless main rotor will be between 0.5 and 3 ohms.
A multimeter may not give an accurate enough reading at these levels. If a Wheatstone bridge
Resistance Meter is not available, an accurate measurement can be obtained by means of a
battery supply, using a Multimeter in series on the 10 Amps D.C. range. Most Multimeters have
this current range, or alternatively, a battery charging Ammeter could be used instead).
Using 6 volt battery cells the resistance of the winding can be calculated i.e. = ohms (resistance)
The resultant can be compared with the correct value given in the resistance charts, and this
method can be used for any resistance greater than 0.5 ohm.

Diode Testing
A Diode has two resistance values, forward and reverse,
These can be measured with a multimeter as shown in the diagram below.
An arrow printed on the diode body identifies the positive side of a diode.

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The forward resistance is being measured in Fig. A with the positive meter lead connected to the
forward side of the diode.
In Figure 'B' the meter leads have been reversed, and the reverse resistance is being measured.
An electronic digital instrument will read true electron flow, hence the resistance polarity
readings will be reverse to conventional current flow, i.e. forward and reverse readings will be
reversed.
A Digital Multimeter usually has a semiconductor test scale on the selector switch, marked as
shown :-

This measures true electron flow, and will give a forward, (indication reading only), or reverse
(no reading) indication.
Using an analogue meter on resistance scale, the forward resistance varies considerably,
depending on the internal impedance of the Multimeter, and the diode type.
A typical reading would be between 20 and 100 ohms.
The reverse resistance must be very much higher, usually in excess of 100k ohms, (100,000
ohms ).
A faulty diode will give a reading in both forward and reverse directions (short circuit), or no
reading in either direction, (open circuit).
Simple Alternative Diode Test Circuit
A good diode will light the bulb in only one direction. It should not light when test leads are
reversed on the diode pin and base.
A faulty diode will light the bulb in both forward and reverse directions (short circuit diode), or
no light in either direction, (open circuit diode).
If one or more diodes are found to be faulty, always change the complete set of diodes.
Success with this method depends upon each test being completed before proceeding to the next,
unless otherwise stated.
Every component in the alternator is checked regardless of the symptoms of the fault, with the
exception of the voltage control system.

1. Set up for test

Disconnect the Exciter Stator leads positive and negative, from the Automatic Voltage Regulator
(AVR).

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What is AVR?
An automatic voltage regulator (AVR) is a device used in generators with the purpose
of automatically regulating voltage, which means that it will turn fluctuating voltage levels into
constant voltage levels.

2. Check the Exciter Stator Resistance

Check the resistance value of the exciter stator across these two leads (approximately 18-30
ohms) with a Multimeter. Refer to Operation and Maintenance manual for correct values.
3. Battery Test
Connect the D.C. battery supply to the exciter stator leads, positive to X+ or orange (F1),
negative to XX- or black

A variable source can be applied to the circuit, as shown: -

4. Run the Generator at Nominal (normal) Speed.

Ensure that the speed is within 4% of the nominal. The engine speed must be correct, to avoid
misleading test results.
5. Excitation Voltage at No Load
It is essential that ALL LOAD is disconnected from the machine, and that the speed is correct.
Check the Battery Voltage after connecting to the Exciter Stator, a minimum of 12 VDC is
required.

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When testing with a fixed battery supply, any difference between the figures below, and the
actual battery voltage, will affect the test results, and should be taken into account. For example,
if your battery voltage is 10% higher or lower than the figures shown, you can expect the
Generator voltage to be equally 10% higher or lower than expected.

6. Checking the Generator Output Voltage

Using a Multimeter, or accurate panel Voltmeter, test the output voltage across the main
terminals, Phase to Phase, and Phase to Neutral.
If the output voltage from the main stator is within 10% of the nominal, or higher than the
nominal, and is also balanced across the phases within 1%., this indicates that the main stator, the
main rotor, exciter stator, exciter rotor, and main rectifier diodes, are all functioning correctly.
7. Checking the Main Stator Winding
The voltages between phases, and each phase to neutral, should be balanced, to within 1% of the
nominal voltage.
On a single-phase machine the voltage between L1-L4, and L2-
L4 or U-N and W-N, must be balanced. If the voltage is 10% or more below the nominal voltage,
but is balanced within 1% phase to phase, the Main Stator is good.
8. Symptoms of a Main Stator Fault
A fault in the main stator windings will produce short circuit currents between turns in the main
stator coil windings.
When separately exciting with a battery, the current will also create heat in the damaged
winding, which may also be heard as a slight loading of the engine.
The three fault symptoms: [Link] Voltages. 2. Heat and/or a burning smell from the
windings. 3. Engine sounds loaded, are all indications of a faulty main stator winding.

TRANSFORMER MAINTENANCE AND REPAIR

A power transformer is the most costly and essential equipment piece of equipment within an
electrical substation. As such it is desirable to perform various preventative maintenance
activities to ensure the transformer maintains a high level of performance and a long functional
life.
A power transformer requires various routine maintenance tasks including measurement and
testing of different parameters of the transformer. There are two main types of maintenance of
transformer. We perform one group on a routine basis (known as preventative maintenance),
and the second group on an ad-hoc basis (i.e. as required).
That means for getting smooth performance from a transformer we have to perform some
maintenance actions on a regular basis A group of electrical workers performing routine
maintenance on a transformer
Some other types of maintenance for a transformer we perform only as they are required –
known as emergency or breakdown transformer maintenance. But if one performs regular
maintenance properly, this significantly reduces the chances of needing to perform such
emergency maintenance. The regular checking and maintenance of transformer is also known as
condition maintenance.
Hence by proper condition maintenance, one can avoid emergency and breakdown maintenance.
That is why technical personnel should mainly concentrate on condition maintenance. As 100%
of condition maintenance causes 0% breakdown of equipment.

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There are many different preventative maintenance actions to be performed on a power
transformer. They can be on a daily, monthly, yearly, quarterly, half-yearly, or yearly basis.
Some transformer maintenance activities only need to be performed once in a 3 to 4 years
interval.

Monthly Basis Maintenance of Transformer

Let us first discuss about the action to be taken on power transformer in monthly basis.

1. The oil level in oil cap under silica gel breather must be checked in a one-month interval.
If it is found the transformer oil inside the cup comes below the specified level, oil to be
top up as per specified level.
2. Breathing holes in silica gel breather should also be checked monthly and properly
cleaned if required, for proper breathing action.
3. If the transformer has oil filled bushing the oil level of transformer oil inside the bushing
must be visually checked in the oil gage attached to those bushing. This action also to be
done monthly basis.
If it is required, the oil to be filled in the bushing upto correct level. Oil filling to be done under
shutdown condition.

Daily Basis Maintenance and Checking

There are three main things which to be checked on a power transformer on a daily basis:

1. Reading of MOG (Magnetic Oil Gauge) of main tank and conservator tank.
2. Color of silica gel in breather.
3. Leakage of oil from any point of a transformer.
In case of unsatisfactory oil level in the MOG, oil to be filled in transformer and also the
transformer tank to be checked for oil leakage. If oil leakage is found take required action to plug
the leakage. If silica gel becomes pinkish, it should be replaced.

Yearly Basis Transformer Maintenance Schedule

1. The auto, remote, manual function of cooling system that means, oil pumps, air fans, and
other items engaged in cooling system of transformer, along with their control circuit to
be checked in the interval of one year. In the case of trouble, investigate control circuit
and physical condition of pumps and fans.
2. All the bushings of the transformer to be cleaned by soft cotton cloths yearly. During
cleaning the bushing should be checked for cracking.
3. Oil condition of OLTC to be examined in every year. For that, oil sample to be taken
from drain valve of divertor tank, and this collected oil sample to be tested for dielectric
strength (BDV) and moisture content (PPM). If BDV is low and PPM for moisture is
found high compared to recommended values, the oil inside the OLTC to be replaced or
filtered.
4. Mechanical inspection of Buchholz relays to be carried out on yearly basis.

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 5. All marshalling boxes to be cleaned from inside at least once in a year. All illumination,
space heaters, to be checked whether they are functioning properly or not. If not, required
maintenance action to be taken. All the terminal connections of control and relay wiring
to be checked an tighten at least once in a year.
6. All the relays, alarms and control switches along with their circuit, in R&C panel (Relay
and Control Panel) and RTCC (Remote Tap Changer Control Panel) to be cleaned by
appropriate cleaning agent.
7. The pockets for OTI, WTI (Oil Temperature Indicator & Winding Temperature Indicator)
on the transformer top cover to be checked and if required oil to be replenished.
8. The proper function of Pressure Release Device and Buchholz relay must be checked
annually. For that, trip contacts and alarm contacts of the said devices are shorted by a
small piece of wire, and observe whether the concerned relays in remote panel are
properly working or not.
9. Insulation resistance and polarization index of transformer must be checked
with battery operated megger of 5 KV range.
10. Resistive value of earth connection and rizer must be measured annually with clamp on
earth resistance meter.
11. DGA or Dissolve Gas Analysis of transformer Oil should be performed, annually for 132
KV transformer, once in 2 years for the transformer below 132 KV transformer and in 2
years interval for the transformer above 132 KV transformer.
The Action to be taken once in 2 years:

1. The calibration of OTI and WTI must be carried once in two years.
2. Tan & delta; measurement of bushings of transformer also to be done once in two years.
Maintenance of Transformer on Half Yearly Basis
The transformer oil must be checked half yearly basis that means once in 6 months, for dielectric
strength, water content, acidity, sludge content, flash point, DDA, IFT, resistivity for transformer
oil.
In the case of a distribution transformer, as they are operating light load condition all the time of
day remaining peak hours, so there are no maintenance required.
Maintenance of Current Transformer
A Current Transformer or CT is very essential equipment installed in an electrical substation for
electrical measurement and protection purpose. If a current transformer does not perform
properly, there may be a huge disturbance in the system due to malfunctioning of protection
relays. So far accurate measurement and smooth operation of an electrical power system, CTs
must be properly maintained. A schedule of such maintenance of current transformer is preferred
below for ready reference. Let us first discuss the maintenance of CT which to be performed in a
one-year interval.
1. Insulation resistance of the CT must be checked in yearly basis. During insulation
resistance measurement, it must be remembered that, in current transformer there are two
level of insulation. The insulation level of primary of CT is quite high as it has to
withstand full system voltage. But the secondary of the CT has low insulation level
generally 1.1 KV. So primary to secondary and primary to earth of a current transformer
are measured with 2.5 or 5 KV megger. But this high voltage megger can not be used for
secondary measurement, as here insulation level is quite low in the view of economy of

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 the design. So secondary insulation is measured with 500 V megger. Hence, primary
terminals to earth, primary terminals to secondary measuring core, primary terminals to
secondary protection cores are measured by 2.5 or 5 KV megger. In between secondary
cores and secondary to earth resistances are measured by 500V megger.
2. Thermo vision scanning of primary terminals and top dome of a live CT should be
performed at least once in a year. This scanning can be done with help of infra-red
Thermo-vision Camera.
3. All the CT secondary connections in CT secondary box and CT junction box must be
checked, cleaned and tighten every year to ensure maximum possible low resistance path
for CT secondary currents. It should also be ensured that CT junction box is properly
cleaned.
There are some other maintenance of Current Transformer which to be performed in half yearly
basis, such as,

1. The porcelain housing of CTs should be checked for hire crack if any crack is observed
on insulator, necessary advice to be obtained from manufacturer.
2. The porcelain insulator housing of current transformer, to be cleaned properly by cotton
clothes.
Now we will discuss about monthly basis maintenance of current transformer.

1. Oil leakage from any joint should be visually inspected if leakage found, it must be
plugged by taking shutdown.
2. The secondary terminals are also checked for oil leakage, if leakage found, immediate
action to be taken to plug the leakage.
In addition to these, tans or loss factor measurement to be performed on a current transformer,
preferably above 66 KV class, once in two years.

Dissolve Gas Analysis of oil also to be done preferably once in 4 years. If the results are found
unsatisfactory as per standard, the insulating oil must be replaced.
Maintenance of Voltage Transformer and Capacitor Voltage Transformer
Construction wise a voltage transformer and a capacitor voltage transformer are same. Hence
basis scheme of maintenance of both voltage transformer and capacitor voltage transformer are
more or less same. As heavy current does not flow through PT and CVT, the defect and fault
generally very low.
That is why monthly maintenance of voltage transformer and maintenance of capacitor voltage
transformer may not be required. Moreover very frequent maintenance of bus PT or CVT may
not also be possible as far taking shutdown of such PT or CVT total bus section would be out of
protection and metering. Only yearly maintenance of such equipments are sufficient.
Yearly Maintenance of Voltage Transformer or Capacitor Voltage Transformer
1. The porcelain housing must be cleaned with cotton clothes.
2. The spark gap assembly to be checked on yearly basis. Remove the moveable part of
spark gap as assembly, clean the braes electrode with emery paper and fix it back in
position.

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 3. The high frequency earthing point should be visually checked yearly in the case, the point
is not used for PLCC.
4. Thermo vision camera to be used for checking any hot spots in the capacitor stacks to
ensure pro action of rectification.
5. The terminal connections PT junction box including earth connections to be checked for
tightness once in a year. In addition to that, the PT junction box also to be cleaned
properly once in a year.
6. The health of all gasket joint also to be visually checked and replaced if any damaged
gasket found.
Note that in addition all yearly basis maintenance of potential transformer or capacitor voltage
transformer must also be checked for tan δ once in 3 years. An increase in the value of tan δ
indicates deterioration of insulation whereas both increases in tan δ and capacitance indicate the
entry of moisture into the insulation.

Why Transformer oils are needed in Transformer Maintenance

The importance of oil in a transformer cannot be overstressed because the power transformer
cannot perform its functions effectively without the oil insulating processes in all device parts,
bringing us to what a transformer is and why transformer oil is essential for the efficient
performance of the power transformer.

A transformer can be a passive component that transfers electrical energy from one electrical
circuit to multiple circuits. It can also be seen as a steady electrical device that converts electrical
energy from one source of the electrical circuit to another without any change of frequency
through a means known as electromagnetic induction.

The essence of a transformer in the regulation of electrical energy is the ability to increase step
up or decrease step down voltage levels between circuits, and just like every other mechanical
equipment that needs oil for proper functions, the transformer is not as exceptional it requires the
transformer oil that ensures proper functioning of the transformer because it is stable at very high
temperatures, and it also has an excellent electrical insulating property.

The transformer oil is used in oil-filled transformers, some types of high-voltage capacitors,
fluorescent lamp ballasts, and also some types of high-voltage switches and circuit breakers. It is
also known as insulating oil, often used in electrical power transformers to prevent arcing and
dissolve the transformer's heat. The transformer oil has various properties that distinguish it from
other existing oil, such as reliable electrical-insulating properties.

The usefulness of the transformer oil is its use in the power transformer to prevent arcing, helps
regulate the heat of the transformer, and acts as a coolant to protect the winging and core of the
transformer, which is submerged within the

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