STABILIZER GUIDE
INSIDE!
11 stabilizer
tips and more!
How do you select a stabilizer when there are so many choices?
It can be quite challenging. And since there are so many choices, there may
be more than one right answer. But let’s start by asking a few questions
that will help you pare down the selection.
1. Will the wrong side of the embroidery be 3. Is the fabric sheer?
visible? Embroidering on tulle, organdy, netting and other sheer fabrics
If so, a tear-away or completely removable stabilizer would be call for a completely removable stabilizer.
the first choice.
2. Is a permanent stabilizer required? And
why would it need to be permanent?
All knits and heavily laundered items such as uniforms and
athletic wear require a stabilizer that remains in the design
to maintain the crispness of a design’s details. A permanent
stabilizer also helps retain the design’s shape after repeated
use and washings.
4. Is the fabric translucent such as light- 5. Can the fabric withstand water or heat
colored knits and wovens? applications?
Stabilizer bleed-through is a fashion no-no! Choose a tear- Velvet, silks and other delicate fabrics require special attention.
away or light cut-away such as poly-mesh to avoid that halo
effect.
6. Will the act of tearing the excess stabilizer 8. Is this a multiple-item project (or large
distort the fabric or embroidery design? production run)?
Some delicate fabrics can be damaged by ripping off the Tear-aways tend to save time on repeat applications.
stabilizer. Also, the delicate outlines of some embroidery
designs can be pulled out of shape by the violent act of tearing. 9. What is the stitch count of the embroidery
Check the tear-away product itself. Does it tear easily and
cleanly in both directions? design?
Light and airy designs can be produced with high definition
with a minimum of stabilizer while large fill designs require a
stronger foundation.
10. Can the item fit in a hoop?
Hooping ensures the best stabilization for any fabric. Difficult
or impossible to hoop items require an adhesive backing.
7. Is the item a wearable?
The stabilizer should provide a foundation for the embroidery
without changing the drape of the fabric.
11. Does the fabric have a pile and will the
application of an adhesive pull on the pile or
loops?
Lofty fabrics call for a topper (usually water soluble film)
to tame the nap so the stitches do not sink into the fabric.
Adhesive stabilizers used as backing on pile fabrics can pull the
fibers upon release. Protect the fabric with a fusible, light tear-
away between the item and the sticky stabilizer.
There are so many variables in the embroidery process that a
test should be conducted for every fabric, design and stabilizer.
Let’s look at some of the variables: stability of the fabric, color
of the fabric, design stitch count, thread, needle, machine speed,
stitch length, hooping technique, needle tension and bobbin
tension.
Use the questionnaire above to guide you in your initial
selection of a stabilizer and then test the fabric/design/stabilizer
combo. If you’re satisfied with your initial selection, go with it.
If not, change one variable and test again. Keep your samples,
they’ll show the result of each adjustment you make. Write
the results on an index card and staple it to the sample. If you
don’t have extra fabric from the project, purchase a 1/4 yd. of
similar fabric or go to a second hand clothing store and buy a
duplicate article. Once you’re satisfied with your results, make
a note of it! You’ll be so glad you did when you attempt the
same project at a later date.
Tear-away
Best for woven fabrics, tear-away stabilizer should be easy
Cut-away to remove. Just pull on the excess stabilizer and the needle
perforations from the embroidery will help release the excess.
Tear-away should tear in both directions. When selecting a
tear-away, give it a pull in both directions. Tear-away remains
in the design, providing a foundation for the embroidery
throughout the life of the item. Tear-away should only be used
on designs and fabrics that can withstand the violent act of
tearing the excess. It’s difficult to remove tear-away from small
open areas within a design.
Use it with medallion-type designs. Delicate fabrics and light,
airy designs are not good candidates for tear-away.
Although many embroiderers insist on using only one layer
of stabilizer, I find two layers of a light tear-away are easier to
remove than one layer of heavy tear-away. This is a matter of
personal preference - see what works best for you.
Wash-away
Can be used as both a backing and topper. It is available
Best for knits and loosely woven fabrics. A permanent in many forms today, plastic film, paper, liquid and woven.
stabilizer, cut-away is trimmed to within a 1/4” from the design Regardless of its form, all wash-aways are completely
edge. It comes in a variety of weights - from lightweight (but removable when wetted. The number one factor in deciding
strong) polymesh to heavy. Select a weight that will support whether or not to use a wash-away is can the fabric get wet.
the design without changing the hand of the fabric. Cut-away And not only can it get wet but do you have the time to wet
should not be visible from the right side of the embroidery. and dry the fabric.
Polymesh cut-away is available in black, white and beige while
many other cut-aways are available in white and black. Many Wash away film comes in a variety of weights - light is excellent
cut-aways are fusible products and if not, they work very well as a topper - and heavy - the best foundation for lace, edging
with temporary spray adhesive. and cutwork. Read the manufacturer’s directions for removal
- they are DIFFERENT. Some call for hot (watch out for fabric
shrinkage), cool or tepid water.
When used as a topper, lightweight wash-away can be gently
torn away from the embroidery. Small patches can be removed
with a dampened cotton swab or toothbrush.
The beginning embroiderer
should have:
Wash-away stabilizers are also used for embroidered lace as lightweight wash-away
shown here. lightweight cut-away in beige
heavy cut-away in white
lightweight tear-away
lightweight fusible tear-away in white
temporary spray adhesive
The well-stocked embroiderer
should have all of the previously
mentioned plus the following:
heavy wash-away
colored tear-away topper
lightweight cut-away in black
heat-away
heavy cut-away in black
lightweight fusible tear-away in black
Heat-away
Best for non-washable fabrics, sheer fabrics, and fabrics too
delicate for a tear-away. Heat-away stabilizers come in two
forms: film and woven. They are completely removable when
applied in the correct manner. The film version of heat-away
is removed with a dry iron and is often used as a topper. The
woven version is great for lace making or creating fabric with
thread. It will crumble when heated with a dry iron. Follow
the manufacturer’s directions for best results.