FIGURING WITH EXTRA THREAD Dutimoyi Jahangir
Assistant Professor
TE 3109 Department of Textile Engineering
Features of Figuring with Extra Thread Design
In certain classes of fabrics the ornamentation or figuring is done by using
extra threads which are made to interlace with the ground fabric at
intervals.
The extra threads may be introduced in the warp or weft way direction or
both.
The notable feature of these fabrics is that the withdrawal of the extra
threads from the cloth leaves a complete ground structure under the figure.
The introduction of the extra threads does not affect the strength or
durability of the cloth. However, the extra threads are liable to come out
due to repeated use. In the case of ordinary fabrics where the figuring is
formed by the ground threads the removal of any figuring thread does
affect the strength and durability of the cloth.
Features of Figuring with Extra Thread Design
One of the advantages of figuring with extra materials is that bright colors
in sharp contrast with the ground may be brought to the surface of the
cloth in any desired proportion. Pleasing color combinations may thus be
conveniently obtained, since the extent of surface allotted to the figuring
color may be readily proportioned in accordance with the degree of its
contrast with the ground shade, without the latter being affected.
A simple cross section of an extra thread fabric is shown below:
Methods of Production
The extra thread figured fabrics may be produced by the following
methods:
By introduction of a separate set of warp threads in addition to the
ground warp threads.
By introduction of separate set of weft threads in addition to the
ground weft threads, &
By introduction of both separate warp and weft threads in addition to
the ground warp and weft threads.
Necessary Loom Equipment
For manufacturing extra warp fabrics, the following loom equipments are
necessary-
Dobby mechanism
Two warp beams; one for ground warp and the other for the figuring
warp
Single weft beam - ground weft.
For manufacturing extra weft fabrics the following loom equipments are
necessary
Dobby mechanism
Drop box for ground and figuring weft
Single warp beam - ground warp.
Methods of Removal of Surplus Figuring Threads
It becomes necessary to remove the extra figuring threads at portions
where they are not required. The following methods are suitable for the
removal of the threads:
In closely constructed figured fabrics, the extra threads are allowed to
float loosely on the backside of the ground cloth.
In lightly constructed ground fabrics, the extra threads are allowed to
float loosely on the back and are afterwards cut away.
The extra threads are bound in on below the face side of the cloth by
means of special stitching threads or by corresponding floats in the
ground structure. This method is suitable for closely set fabrics.
In some cases the extra threads are woven as small figures with the
ground at places where the regular figure is not desired.
Advantages of Extra Thread Figured Design
The productivity of a loom is greater because only one series of picks
is inserted, and a faster running loom can be used.
No special picking, box, and uptake motions are required.
There is theoretically no limit to the number of colors that can be
introduced.
In an intermittent arrangement of the extra ends either spotted or stripe
patterns can be formed, whereas a similar arrangement in the weft can
only be used to form spots (except in special cases) because of the
objectionable appearance of horizontal lines.
Disadvantages of Extra Thread Figured Design
Two or more warp beams may be required instead of one.
If an ordinary jacquard and harness are employed a smaller width of repeat is
produced by a given size of machine, because the sett of the harness requires to be
increased in proportion to the number of extra ends that are introduced in a design.
In dobby weaving the drafts are usually more complicated.
Stronger yarn is required for the figure, and the threads are not so soft, full, and
lustrous; extra ends are subjected to greater tension during weaving than extra
picks, and as a rule, there is less contraction in length than in width, and the result
is that extra warp effects usually show less prominently than extra weft figures.
If the extra threads have to be removed from the underside of the cloth, it is more
difficult and costly to cut away extra ends than extra picks.
Comparison Between Extra Warp and Extra Weft Thread
Figured Design
Extra warp figuring Extra weft figuring
1. No additional shuttle box and special take up Drop box with modified take up mechanisms are
mechanisms are required. required.
2. Additional warp beams (2 or more) are necessary. Requires only a single warp beam.
3. As only one type of weft is inserted, the As drop box is used to insert two or more series of
production is higher. weft yarns, the production is lesser.
4. Striped and spotted effects can be brought out by Spotted effects are possible but striped effects are
alternately arranging the figuring threads. not effective.
5. Requires warp yarns of good strength. Yarns of good strength are not a necessity.
6. Draft plans are usually more complicated. Draft plans are simpler.
7. Figured effects exhibit less prominently. Figured effects show more prominently.
8. It is more difficult and expensive to dispose the The disposal of the extra threads is easier and more
extra threads at places where they are not required. economical.
9. Possess a constraint in repeat size when working No such problems.
on an ordinary type of jacquard.
10. Scope for introduction of more colors. Scope for coloring is restricted to capacity of shuttle
boxes.
Standard Quality Particulars of Extra Figured Fabrics
The following particulars are suitable for an extra warp figured fabric:
Ground warp – 20’s
Ends/inch - 30
Crimp - 22.5 %
Extra warp – 16’s
Ends/heald eye - 2
Double ends/inch - 30
Crimp - 6 - 8%
Weft – 3’s
Picks/cm – 30
Cotton yarns are normally used although good effects can be obtained
with two-fold viscose rayon staple yarns for the figuring ends.
Standard Quality Particulars of Extra Figured Fabrics
The suitable particulars for an extra weft figured fabric are as given
below:
Warp - 2/40’s cotton
Ends/inch - 82
Weft- ground – 40’s cotton
Picks/cm - 82 (ground)
Extra weft – 30’s
End-uses of Extra Figured Fabrics
Extra figured fabrics find various end uses such as:
Bed covers
Furnishings
Fine tie cloth etc.