VEGETABLE PRODUCTION

Vegetable crops grown in Botswana

Indigenous vegetable crops.
These are vegetables that originate in Botswana, for example;
 Single leafed cleome (Rothwe)
 Pig weed (Thepe)
 Bush Okra (Delele)
 Cow Pea (Morogo wa Dinawa)
 Water lily (Tswii)
 Wild stripped cucumber (Mogabala)

Exotic Vegetable Crops

These are vegetables that originate outside. Botswana for example
-Spinach -cucumber -beans
-Cabbage -cauliflower -kale
-Beetroot -peas -parsnips
-Lettuce -tomatoes -egg plants
-Leeks -onions

Nutritional Value of vegetables

 They are rich in minerals and vitamins which help protect the body against diseases.
 Leafy vegetables and potato skins are good source of fibre which help in digestion and excretion.
 Spinach is a source of iron which is essential for blood formation.
 Eating carrots can help improve one’s eyesight as carrots contain carotene and vitamin A.
 Vegetables such as beetroot, potatoes and legumes are rich in carbohydrates which gives us energy.
 Fleshy fruit vegetables, such as tomatoes contain a lot of water which is needed in the body.
 Vegetables such as garlic and onions increase ones appetite by adding flavour to the food making food smell good and
taste better.

Demand and Supply of Vegetable production situation in Botswana

Since most of Batswana recognize the importance of vegetables in their diet, they buy the vegetables at the market and eat at
home. However not all vegetables are readily available on the market. This shows an imbalance in the supply and demand for
vegetables. So the situation shows that the demand for vegetables is HIGH and the supply for the vegetables is LOW.
Therefore we still import vegetables from other countries as to meet the demand.

Opportunities for further vegetable development

There are good opportunities in the development of vegetable industry in this country. The large demand for vegetable means
that there are many opportunities for further vegetable development. Instead of relying on imported vegetables Batswana should
use government grants and their own resources to start vegetable enterprises. Other opportunities include the following
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 - Marketing
- Processing
- Distribution of vegetable and vegetable products.
- Waste water from house holds
- Home made fertilizers

Government Strategies aimed at improving vegetable production

 Providing Financial Assistance: Government provides financial assistance to vegetable producers through the CEDA
programme. People willing to start vegetable production may apply for grants under this programme.
 Including horticulture in the school curriculum: To increase knowledge and skills in vegetable production, students
are taught how to grow vegetable at an early age. Some of the students may be interested in starting vegetable
production business after leaving school.
 Developing market structures or facilities: Government has built market structures for local producers and is still
planning to build other market structures as to encourage vegetable producers to produce more without fear with the
presence of markets.
 Supply of inputs: Inputs like seeds, seedlings, pesticides and fertilizers can be bought by vegetable producers at
farmer’s centers, veterinary, hardware supply stores and super markets.
 Providing technical support: Agricultural demonstrators have been employed by the government to help provide
technical advice and support to vegetable producers. The demonstrator shows them how things are done with the
production of vegetables.

Requirements for the establishment of a vegetable enterprise

- Enough land with fertile soil
- Permanent source of water for irrigation
- Adequate capital to finance the project
- Correct tools and equipment
- Near to consumption centers or market
- Skilled, experienced and reliable personnel

Factors considered when choosing which vegetable to grow

-Vegetable needs of a family
-Soil type and climatic conditions needed by crop
-Technical knowledge of the crop
-Market demand for vegetables
-Resistance to pests, diseases and drought
-Ease of growing and managing
-Labour requirements
-Value of the crop

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Methods of vegetable production

1. Open beds or Field Production: This is where vegetables are grown in an open cultivated piece of land. No
individual plots are made instead the whole field where vegetables are to be planted is cultivated. Vegetable crops are
planted in rows and taken care of until harvesting or maturity. Cabbage, spinach and onions can be produced under this
method.

2. Seedbed/Plot production: Seedbed or plot production is suitable for growing vegetables on a small scale for example
for home use, research or for growing vegetables in the school garden for educational purposes. With this method,
different types of seedbeds are used like flat seedbed, raised seedbed and sunken seedbed.

3. Concrete bench production: Under this method, several permanent beds with a framework of bricks or concrete are
constructed. The base of the walls is made of concrete. It should have outlet holes that allow excess water to drain. We
then put growth medium in the bench and cultivate our crops. It is good to use in areas where there are water shortages
and where we are to conserve moisture. This production method is also used in nurseries

4. Greenhouse or tunnel production: Greenhouses are structures with glass or plastic roof and walls that are usually
transparent. This is to allow the sunlight to enter and warm the inside but then prevent the heat from escaping.
Sometimes this house is in the shape of a tunnel. Greenhouses are usually used by commercial vegetable producers
because they are expensive high technology facilities. Vegetables can be grown here throughout the year because the
structures protect the vegetables from heat, cold, strong winds and pests. Tomatoes for instance, can be sown in green
house in winter because they susceptible to frost.

5. Hydroponics: This method is used where water and soil are limiting factors in the production of vegetables.
Vegetables are grown in a medium such as gravel, sand or sawdust to provide some root anchorage. Plants nutrients
are supplied directly to the roots in the form of a solution.

6. Pots/Containers: With this method pots or containers are filled with medium in production of vegetables. Support
may be provided using stakes or by trellising.

Seedbeds/ plots for vegetable

1. Raised Plot
They are about 25cm above ground level

Advantages
-often better soil structure and more plant food for vegetables
-provide good drainage and aeration
-encourage better root penetration
-help to prevent washing away of vegetables during rainstorms

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 Disadvantages
-poor at conserving rainwater
-it is unsuitable for very dry areas
- more work is done to build a heap

2. Sunken Plots
Sunken 10-15cm below path level

Advantages
-conserve a great deal for water
-suitable for dry seasons
-the seedlings are protected from damage by strong winds.

Disadvantages
-allows water to stay in one place so are water logged
-it takes a lot of work and time to prepare
-soil easily becomes hard and poorly aerated
-they are suitable for heavy rain areas
This is the type of seedbed suitable for vegetable production in our area as we receive little amount of rainfall.

3. Flat seedbed
A flat seedbed is level with the ground surface

Advantages
-it is easy and less time consuming to prepare than the other
types of beds.

Disadvantages
Seedlings can easily be washed away by running water since the beds are level with the
ground.

Classification of vegetable crops

Vegetable crops are generally classified according to the part of the plant eaten or used. The common classes include; leaf,
legume, roots, fruit, bulb and flower.
Class Part Used Examples
Leaf Leaves Cabbage, spinach, choumolia, kale and lettuce
Legume Young pods Peas, bush beans and broad beans
Root Root Carrots, beetroot, parsnip, radish, Irish potatoes

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 Fruit Fruit Tomatoes, eggplants, green pepper, cucumber and pumpkin
Bulb Bulb Onions, garlic, leeks and shallot
Flower Flower bulb Cauliflower and broccoli, Brussels sprout

Varieties of vegetables under study

1. Spinach/ Swiss chard
- Ford hook Giant
- Lucullus
- Bloomsdale
- Viroflay

Soil and climatic requirements

Soil
Spinach is a heavy feeder and thus it grows well in a fertile, well drained, well aerated and sandy loam soil. Spinach prefers
slightly acidic to neutral soil (with pH range of 6.0-7.0). If soils are acidic lime has to be added.

Climate
Spinach is a col season crop and grows well in winter and autumn. It can resist frost and prefers temperature ranging from 10°C
to 30°C. It is also a heavy drinker and requires more water as to produce succulent leaves.

Organic and Inorganic fertilizers of spinach

Basal dressing
Add kraal manure 5-8 kg/m2 or chicken manure 2-3 kg/m2 at least 2 weeks before planting using broadcasting method
200g/m2 of superphosphate and 80-100g/m2 of NPK are usually used when the soil is too poor

Top dressing
Apply 14g of LAN or 20g of ammonium sulphate per 3m2 three weeks after planting and repeat the treatment 4-5 weeks. Side
dressing or ring method are used as methods of application.

Planting and spacing (sowing)

Seeds are sown directly on a nursery or raised or sunken plots. Inter row spacing is 40 - 60cm and Intra row spacing is 15 -
25cm. The depth of planting is 1 - 2cm

Management practices of spinach

Mulching
It should be done immediately after planting using dry grass. It helps smoothen weeds and also protects loss of moisture from
the soil encouraging germination.

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Watering
Water plants regularly and sufficiently
Reasons:-
1
2
3

Thinning
It should be started 2-3weeks after seedling emergence to allow seedling enough space to grow.
Reasons:-
1
2
Weeding
Weeds should be removed at all times whenever they are observed.
Reasons:-
1
2
3

Cultivation
Regular cultivation of soil is essential before and after planting.
Reasons:-
1
2
3

Shading
Provision of net shade to young seedlings is very essential looking at our climatic conditions.
Reasons:-
1
2

Fertilizer application
Most of the vegetables are heavy feeders and they need to be provided nutrients at all times when needed.
Reasons:-
1
2

Pest and disease control

Regular inspection of vegetables for attack by pests and diseases is important. When attack is observed measures should be
taken to control them without delay

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Reasons:-
1
2
3

Pests affecting spinach

-Aphids - red spider mites
-Cutworms - Thrips
-Birds - root knot eelworms
-Cabbage moth
- Leaf miners
- American bollworms

Description of pests affecting vegetables

Aphids
These are soft bodied slow moving insects of varying colours such as black, green yellow, grey and brown depending on the
species. They have sucking mouth parts and are found on the underside of leaves.

Cutworms
The cutworm gets its name from its feeding habit. It is a greyish and hairless caterpillar produced by a moth. A common
behavior of the cutworm is that it curls into a ring or into a letter C shape when disturbed or touched. Cutworms hide under the
soil close to the surface during the day.

Thrips
These are yellow to brown insects which are 10cm long.

Damage caused by pests on spinach (aphid, cutworms, diamond back moth)

-They suck plant cell or juices while on the underside of the leaves.
-They chew the leaves until only a thin layer of the leave remains
-Saliva injected on the leaves while feeding may spread diseases
-Large number of aphids feeding on the leaves cause curling of the leaves.

Methods of controlling pests

-Sanitation methods and crop rotation can be adhered.
-Use of insecticides such as Malathion and Dimethoate can be used to kill pests
-Highly infected plants should be removed and destroyed
-Regular weeding should be carried out so that pests do not hide in weeds.

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Diseases of spinach
-leaf curl - Spinach blight
-Leaf spot - Downey mildew
- Damping off - Anthracnose

Damping off
It is caused by fungus

Symptoms
- The base of the stem and roots turn black or dark brown in colour.
- Seedlings become stunted
- Leaves start yellowing and finally wilt.
- Seedlings die because there is no transportation of water and nutrients from the roots to the upper parts of the plant
since the tissues have been damaged.

Treatment
There is no effective treatment for this disease. Prevention is the best strategy to use.

Control and prevention measures

- Avoid over watering and planting in poorly drained or watered logged soils.
- Sow seeds thinly to avoid overcrowding. Thinning over-crowded seedlings is very helpful.
- Remove infected plants and sanitize and sterilize equipment that has been used where there was
Dumping off.
-Spray seedlings as soon as possible after germination with fungicide (Rizolex)

Signs of maturity in Spinach

Spinach will reach maturity within 7 - 9 weeks after direct planting. The leaves are well developed, tender, fresh and have dark
green color. The leaf tissues or cells will still be soft instead of woody.

Harvesting and processing of spinach

Leaf pickling starts about 2 months after planting and continues for 3 - 10months. Cut off leaves with a sharp knife just above
the ground. Only a few mature leaves are harvested at a time allowing the young ones to remain and grow well. Leaves should
be picked early morning as this will ensure they are crisp.

Spinach is not usually processed as it is sold fresh.

Marketing of spinach
After spinach has been harvested, damaged and diseased leaves should be separated from those that are fresh, tender and of
good quality. Good quality leaves can now be washed with clean water to remove dirt. The selected healthy leaves are tied in
bundles or wrapped in plastic bags before they are sold. Spinach can also be chopped in smaller pieces and put in plastic bags in

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preparation for sale. Spinach need to be transported to the market soon be its very sensitive to temperature change. It can be
sold directly to individuals, supermarkets, wholesalers and Botswana Horticulture Market.

Storage and preservation of spinach

Like most leafy vegetables spinach is very perishable and has a short storage period. To avoid wilting, spinach is stored in cool
place. If there are no refrigerators, spinach leaves can be placed upright in containers with water as the leaves will keep on
absorbing water and remain in good condition. Wrapping the leaves in plastic will also preserve moisture in the leaves for some
time.

2. Onion
Onion cultivars differs mainly in the following ways
-size of the bulb
-shape of the bulb (ball shape or flat topped)
-Skin colour (may be straw yellow, red, reddish brown or purple)
-The flesh (white or cream)

There are two main types of onions:

-Bulb
-Spring onion or salad
Bulb onions form large bulbs and spring onions are those which are harvested when small and immature and they have tiny
bulbs.

Onions Cultivars
CULTIVAR BULB SIZE BULB SHAPE BULB SKIN COLOUR
Bulb Onion
Australian brown Medium Ball Red brown
Granex Medium Flat-topped Straw yellow
Brownsville Large Ball Straw yellow
Pyramid Medium Flat-topped Straw yellow
Texas Granex Large Ball Straw yellow
Bon accord Medium Ball Straw yellow
San Medium Flat topped Dark yellow
Spring Onion
White Lisbon Tiny Ball White
White Welsh Tiny Ball White

Soil requirements
Onions require well drained, loose sandy loam soil. Compact soil will make the onion form small bulbs, so avoid planting in
clay soil. The soil should be free from weeds, pests’ diseases and stones.
The pH range must be between 6.5 to 7.5 neutral.

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Climatic requirements
Onions prefer cool temperatures. When it is too hot onion plants still produce large leaves though the bulb remain small. Bulb
formation requires more hours of day light with minimal moisture in the soil. Onions are drought resistant and can withstand
frost.

Organic and Inorganic fertilizers of onions

Onions are also heavy feeders and for basal dressing kraal manure can be used at a rate of 3-4kg/m2. With regard to inorganic
fertilizer, still under basal dressing, 2:3:2 (22) can be used with an application of 100g /m2. Top dressing can also be done with
the addition of LAN at a rate of 15 g/m2 four to six weeks after transplanting. Also add muriate of potash six weeks before
harvesting.

Management Practices on onions

Spacing
Onions are usually sown indirectly on seedbeds/boxes and they are later transplanted to permanent plots where spacing is as
follows:
- Inter spacing 30 - 45cm
- Intra spacing 10 - 15cm
- Onions seeds can take 12 – 14 days to emerge
- Onions can be transplanted at any time of the day because they can withstand heat as they store moisture in the bulb.
Onion need trimming to make planting easier i.e. roots are trimmed to 1cm while leaves are trimmed to 10cm.
- Onions are transplanted 1 and half months after sowing.

Trimming
-Trimming of leaves will prevent falling and keep away pests and diseases.
-Expose bulbs to sunlight

Watering
-Watering should be done regularly because they are shallow rooted vegetable plants
-Reduce watering towards maturity to encourage bulbs to become firm.

Cultivation
-Soil has to be cultivated regularly removing some of the soil around the onion bulb as this encourage them to grow.
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Weeding
Remove weeds regularly as they attack onions and this could result in reduced crop yields.

Fertilizer application
Top dressing the plants with LAN will stimulate rapid growth of the onions.

Pest and disease control

Inspect the plants daily for the signs of pest or disease damage. If plants show any sign of attack appropriate action should be
taken to control the problem.
Onion
Pests attacking onions
Thrips

Damage caused by thrips

Thrips feed on plant juice and leaves become covered with whitish silvery patches.
Feeding also causes the leaves to curl and wilt.
The whole plant may eventually die

Methods of controlling thrips

Malathion can be used to control thrips. Mix it at a ratio of 18ml to 10L of water.
Cultural methods may also be used

Diseases of onion
- Downey mildew -Storage root (fungal)
- Fusarium bulb (root) - Purple blotch

Downey Mildew
It is caused by a fungus

Symptoms
Purple mould forms on the leaves which then slowly die
Leaves eventually turns yellow
The bulbs become soft and are not suitable for storage

Prevention
Spray the plants with Dithane M45 at a rate of 20g in 10L of water
Avoid planting in poorly drained soil

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Signs of maturity in onions
The time for harvesting onions depends on the type of onion grown. You can harvest spring onions 6- 8 weeks after sowing,
when the bulbs are 2 cm in diameter.
Large bulb onion requires four to six months to reach maturity. When fully mature the leaves bends over and turn yellow. You
can leave the plants on the ground for another two weeks.

Harvesting and processing of onions

-They take 4 - 6 months to reach maturity.
-They can be harvested as fresh onions while still having the green leaves or they can be uprooted and left on the ground to dry
up
-Bulbs are usually harvested by hand. A garden fork can be used to loosen the soil around the bulb such that they can be pulled
out easily

Marketing of onions
-Onions are sold in bundles whilst fresh .They are tied in bunches by their leaves and sold.
-Leaves can be cut off and bulbs packed in bags for selling

Storage and preservation of onions

-Spring onions do not have long shelf life. They last longer if they are stored in refrigerators.
-Ripe onions have much longer shelf life. They can be stored in trays in a shady, dry, well-ventilated place.
-They can also be dried and kept in good condition for long term use.

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