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Knitting Notes

This document provides an introduction to knitting, including its history, basic techniques, and essential tools needed for the craft. It covers the types of stitches, knitting tools like needles and measuring devices, and offers guidance on selecting patterns and yarn. Additionally, it outlines good knitting habits and basic rules to follow for successful knitting projects.

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hemasunil8790
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
25 views21 pages

Knitting Notes

This document provides an introduction to knitting, including its history, basic techniques, and essential tools needed for the craft. It covers the types of stitches, knitting tools like needles and measuring devices, and offers guidance on selecting patterns and yarn. Additionally, it outlines good knitting habits and basic rules to follow for successful knitting projects.

Uploaded by

hemasunil8790
Copyright
© All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd

CT-MMB.

730

Beginning Knitting
WHAT IS KNITTING? mittens, and stockings are examples of
this kind of clothing.
Hand knitting is to make fabric with yarn
on two or more needles. A number of Knitting is probably more popular today
loops are first made on one needle, and than it has been at any other time in
then the fabric "grows'' by drawing other history. With the hundreds of different
loops through them as they are passed kinds and textures of yarns available, plus
back and forth along the needles from the constant development of new
row to row. synthetic fibers and various combinations
of them, there is no end to the beautiful
All knitting comes from two kinds of and useful things you can learn to make.
stitches. One is called a "knit stitch," and
the other is called a "purl stitch." There
are several different ways or methods of KNITTING TOOLS
knitting. Refer to directions in the
pattern/instructions for explanations and
types of stitches required.
Knitting can produce something useful,
but the process can, and should be, fun
and relaxing. The main thing is to learn ˆ Knitting Needles
to enjoy knitting—relax while you work, The first tool that comes to mind
avoid a cramped position, have a good when we think of knitting is needles.
light to see by, and if your hands become Knitting needles come in many
tired, stop and rest a while. sizes, types, and lengths and are
made of different materials.
History of Knitting Quality - Knitting needles undergo
Knitting is older than written history. No a variety of extra finishing steps to
one knows exactly when people began to ensure a smooth surface without
knit, but we do know that as far back as nicks or rough edges.
A.D. 200, knitting was an advanced and Size - The size of a knitting needle
accomplished art. The people of refers to its diameter. In the United
Scotland are believed to have been the States, knitting needles are sized
first to knit with wool. with numbers ranging from 0 to 50.
Sizes 17 to 50 are considered
A knitted fabric stretches more than a "jumbo" or "jiffy" size needles.
woven fabric, and it snaps back to its Canadian and European needle
original size after it is stretched. For sizes are based on the metric
example, a woolen knitted fabric can system. Some U.S. needles are now
stretch as much as 30 percent and spring labeled with both sizes. When you
back to its original size. Long ago people go shopping, look at the different
found out how much better a knitted sizes of needles that are available
fabric was than a woven fabric for and compare the United States
clothing that needs to stretch and then (standard) and metric
spring back to fit snugly. Sweaters, measurements.
All knitting patterns tell you the size of Nail file or emery board - for catchy
needles you will need. Never discard your fingernails. A rough fingernail
needles when you have finished the project. might catch on the yarn.
If you lose one needle and have to buy
another pair the same size, keep the extra
needle. You never know when you may
lose or break another one.

ˆ Crochet Hook
You will need a crochet hook to pick
up dropped stitches and to correct
other mistakes. They also come in
many sizes. Size C, or 6, is a good
one for 4-ply knitting yarn.
Case for needles and hooks -
ˆ Measuring Tool You can make a handy case for
You will need a measuring tool. You knitting needles by cutting a
can use a ruler, a measuring tape, or a piece of corrugated paper from
metal measuring gauge. Be sure your a packing carton. Stick your
measuring tool has both standard and needles (and crochet hooks,
metric measurements. too) in the ends of the paper.
You can leave the holder flat for
storage, or it can be rolled up
and fastened with a rubber
band.

Small transparent case - It is a


good idea to keep all easily lost
ˆ Other helpful items: items, such as rubber tips and
tapestry needles, in a small
Scissors - You will also want to transparent case. A long,
include in your knitting basket a round, narrow plastic medicine
pair of small scissors (kept in a bottle will make a very nice
case for safety). case. Be sure to wash the
bottle well before you use it for
Yarn needle - a blunt-pointed yarn
your needles and other small
needle for sewing your articles
items.
together.

2
ˆ Knit counter
A small, lightweight device that slips
over the needle to keep count of the
rows. Each type of counter has a dial
arrangement with two sets of numbers
that will record a count from 1 to 99.

In addition to the equipment listed above,


you may want to use the following: ˆ Stitch gauge

ˆ Point protectors
Little rubber tips that prevent the
stitches from coming off the needle,
protect the point of the needle from
damage, and protect your hands and
knitting containers from needle points.

Includes a 6-inch ruler and a useful


measuring guide for determining the
size of knitting needles. Many of the
ˆ Markers—plastic rings gauges available also have an open
Identifies a certain point in the knitting, space for measuring stitches and rows.
such as an increase or a decrease.
Of course, you will want something in which
to keep your knitting and knitting tools.
There are many things you might use for
this purpose, so use your imagination!

ˆ Stitch holder - a large "safety pin" that Clutter Control


holds stitches temporarily. ♦ Pencil box/pouch to hold small equipment
♦ Cloth or sturdy bag with handles to tote
supplies
♦ Pocket folder/binder to hold knitting
patterns

ˆ Cable stitch holder


Holds reserve stitches out of the work
area. There are several types and
sizes to choose from. SELECTING PATTERNS AND YARN
There are hundreds of sets of instructions
for knitted articles. Some commercial
companies provide excellent instructions,
while others produce patterns with mistakes
in their directions. The directions are often
incomplete and hard to follow as well.
When selecting instructions for your project,
remember that good instructions include:
3
1. A list of materials required—the kind • Amount of yarn.
and amount of yarn, size and number of • Color name and number.
needles, and other tools needed, such • Dye lot.
as a crochet hook. • Certification mark (optional).
• Care instructions.
2. A gauge for the number of stitches per
inch and number of rows per inch.
Types of Yarn
3. Instructions that are printed clearly with
print large enough to read easily. Hundreds of different types and textures of
yarn are available today. Almost all knitting
4. A clear photograph of the finished patterns tell you the kind and amount of
garment so that details can be seen, yarn you will need to make an article.
such as any pattern stitches, number of
buttons and buttonholes, set-in sleeves Hand knitting yarn of acrylic, wool, or
or raglan sleeves, length of sleeves (full wool/nylon is suitable for hats, mittens,
length or three-quarter), total length of gloves, sweaters, and scarves. Because of
the garment on the model (waist length, its firm twist and medium weight, 4-ply
high hip, or low hip), and the general worsted hand knitting yarn is
shaping. recommended for beginning knitters.
5. Detailed instructions for finishing the When a knitted garment is designed, the
garment. yarn is an important part of the design. The
thickness and texture of the yarn in relation
6. A chart with the size range for the to the pattern stitch are important. If you
knitted garment in relation to body wish to substitute a yarn, choose one as
measurements so that you have a guide similar as possible to the specified yarn. Be
to the best size for you. sure you can work to the gauge in the
When selecting a pattern for a knitted substitute yarn.
garment, read through the instructions Amount of Yarn
before you buy. With a little experience in
knitting, you will learn to recognize Yarn is purchased by weight, not length.
instructions that give enough details and Since the weight of a skein varies, check
are clear and easy to understand. Buy the labels carefully to make sure there is
instructions and supplies with well-known enough yarn to complete the project. The
brand names. pattern will tell you the number of ounces or
grams of yarn needed for a knitting project.
About Yarns
Hints On Buying Good-Quality Yarn
Many different kinds of yarns are available
for knitting. Most yarn is wound in pull-out The quality of the yarn has a direct effect on
skeins. the outcome of the finished product. Good-
quality yarn means satisfactory and long-
Read the Yarn Label lasting results.
The label or skein band should include the: To identify good-quality yarn, observe the
• Manufacturer's name and address. color of the yarn. It should be even
• Type of yarn. throughout the skein, since even a very
• Fiber content. slight variation in the color will be visible in
• Word "virgin," meaning that the fiber is the finished product.
new and has not been reprocessed.
‰ Dye lot-The dye lot number on the skein
• Number of plies. band is an identification number for the
4
dye bath used for a quantity of yarn. on them. This will keep the yarn from
Two skeins of yarn the same color but sticking to your fingers.
with different dye lot numbers can have 2. Make sure you have good light when
a slight color variation that is only visible knitting. Poor lighting will not only strain
in the completed project. When you your eyes but also will make it difficult to
select the yarn you want, be sure to catch mistakes in your work.
check each skein to make sure the color
and dye lot numbers are the same. 3. Check your posture. If you avoid a
cramped position, you won't become
‰ When you buy yarn, always buy enough tired so quickly. But when your hands
yarn to make the completed project, become tired or you are tired, stop and
since no two dye lots are exactly the rest!
same. It is better to have a little too
much yarn than not enough.
‰ Twist of yarn - Examine the twist of the FOUR RULES TO LEARN BEFORE YOU
yarn. It should be firmly twisted so that it START TO KNIT
will not separate easily during knitting.
The yarn should be the same thickness Rule 1. Learn knitting abbreviations.
throughout the skein to help ensure These abbreviations are the ABC's of the
even stitches in the completed project. language of knitting. They are always used
The yarn should be full and round in in exactly the same way in all directions. A
appearance so that the finished project list of commonly used abbreviations is
will retain its shape. included at the end of this publication. To
begin with, you will need to know the
‰ Resiliency of yarn - Check the following:
resiliency of the yarn. Squeeze the k knit
skein. Good-quality yarn should bounce p purl
back. Twist or stretch a strand of yarn. st(s) stitch(es)
When released, a good-quality yarn will sl slip stitch to other needle without
spring back close to its original length. knitting
* repeat whatever follows * as
indicated
CARE OF KNITTING
Rule 2. Always read directions step by
Save the skein band/label from the yarn step. Never "read ahead" when you are
used in the project in case there's a need to following directions.
refer to the information on the label. Rule 3. Always try to finish the row before
Remember, the skein band also contains putting your work down. But, if you must put
care instructions. Follow the information your work down in the middle of a row, be
specified by the manufacturer for the yarn. certain that the end of the yarn coming from
For best results do not allow a knitted item the skein is in your right hand when you
to become excessively soiled. Knitted pick it up again. Then you can't go wrong.
garments should be stored folded flat, not
hung on hangers. Rule 4. Know the two stitches used for
all knitting. One is called a "knit" stitch (k);
Good Knitting Habits the other is called a "purl" stitch (p). Your
directions will tell you when to "knit" and
1. Always remember to wash and dry your when to "purl." A good way to tell a "knit"
hands well before you pick up your from a "purl" is to think of the yarn on your
knitting. If your hands become moist needle as a neck, the "knit" stitch as a V-
while knitting, rub a little talcum powder
5
neck sweater, and the "purl" stitch as a
turtleneck sweater.

Knit or V-neck Purl or Turtleneck

CASTING ON-The First Step in Knitting


Casting on (CO) is the technique for 3. Place the loop on the needle and gently
forming the first row of stitches on a knitting pull the ends of the yarn (not too tightly).
needle. This technique requires two yarn The skein of the yarn is to the right, and
ends. the free end of the yarn is to the left.
There are several methods of casting on
stitches. One method is shown here. By
using two yarns to cast on, the beginning or
edge of your work will be stronger.
For correct tension, as it is called, stitches
should fit closely but not tightly around the
needles. They should move back and forth
along the needles freely but not so freely as
to allow the needles to fall out.
If you find that you have a tendency to cast
on too tightly, use a larger size needle for What to Do with the Right Hand
the cast-on and bind-off rows. 1. Hold the needle between the thumb and
first finger, as if you were holding a
How to Begin pencil.
1. Measure a length of yarn long enough to
complete the number of cast-on stitches
specified in the knitting instructions.
Allow 1 inch of yarn for every stitch you
cast on and an additional 6 inches for
finishing yarn ends.

2. Be sure that the loop is near the pointed


end of the needle.
3. Using the skein end of the yarn, place
the yarn loosely over the first finger,
under the second, over the third, and
under the fourth above the knuckles.
2. After measuring the yarn, make a slip The second and third fingers are very
knot for the first stitch. important because they keep the flow of
yarn even, not too tight or too loose.
That is, they regulate the tension.

6
What to Do with the Left Hand
1. Grasp the free end of the yarn lightly 3. Bring the yarn in the right hand over the
against the left hand with the second, point of the needle from the back.
third, and fourth fingers.
2. Place the yarn near the needle around
and under the thumb.

Now You Are Ready to Work


Bring the hands close together and adjust 4. Draw it through the loop.
the yarn.

Procedure
1. Notice that the yarn makes a loop
around the left thumb.
2. Insert your needle through the 5. Slip the thumb out. Pull the yarn tightly.
underside of the loop. Two stitches are now on the needle.
6. Repeat from Step 2 until you have the
number of stitches needed.

7
THE KNIT STITCH (k) Procedure-First Row
Plain knitting or the garter stitch is 1. Insert the right needle into the front of
characteristic of horizontal ridges and looks the first stitch on the left needle from the
the same on the front as the back. left side. Steady the right needle against
the forefinger of the left hand. Keep your
yarn to the back of your work.
What to Do with the Left Hand
1. In the left hand, hold the needle with the
stitches you have just cast on.

2. With the right hand, bring the yarn over


the point of the right needle.

2. The first stitch is held lightly by the index


finger near the tip of the needle.

What to Do with the Right Hand

1. Hold the needle between the thumb and


the index finger, as if you were holding a
pencil. This is the same procedure as
for casting on. 3. Draw the yarn through the stitch.
2. The yarn is placed over the first finger,
under the second, over the third and
under the fourth above the knuckles. As
you practice knitting, you will learn to
adjust the yarn to get the best results.

4. Slip the old stitch off the left needle, thus


completing the first new stitch. A new
row is being formed on the right needle.

3. Bring your hands close together and


adjust the yarn.

8
5. Always keep pushing your work up so garter stitch.
that the stitch on which you are working
is near the tip of the needle.
6. Repeat Steps 1 through 4 until all the
stitches have been knitted off the left
needle. An easy way to remember these
steps is to repeat to yourself: "in" (Step
1); "over" (Step 2); "through" (Step 3);
"off" (Step 4).

Second Row & Succeeding Rows


1. Change the needle with the stitches into
the left hand. THE PURL STITCH (p)
2. The empty needle is in the right hand. The purl stitch differs in two ways from the
The yarn is over the first finger, under knit stitch. In plain knitting, the yarn is at the
the second, over the third, and under back of your work. In purling, the yarn is to
the fourth above the knuckles. the front of your work.
In plain knitting, the needle is inserted in the
front of the stitch from the left side of the
other needle. In purling, insert the needle in
the front of the stitch from the right side of
the other needle.

3. Slip the first stitch off the left needle


onto the right needle without knitting. To
do this, insert right needle into loop from
the right side, transfer loop to right
needle. Do this with the first stitch of
each row and you will have a smooth
edge. The purl stitch is not used alone; it is
4. Bring your yarn to the back of your work combined with the knit stitch to create
by passing it between the two needles. different patterns. When the pattern is knit
one row and purl the next, the result is a
fabric that is smooth on one side. We call
5. Proceed as before. Watch your work this the stockinette stitch. Sometimes the
closely to be sure that you have not purl side is used for the outside of the
dropped a stitch. When every row is knit article. This is called reversed stockinette
the fabric that results is known as the stitch.

9
THE RIB STITCH BINDING OFF (BO)
The rib stitch/ribbing is made by alternating When a knitting project is finished, the final
a number of knit stitches with purl stitches. technique is called binding off.
The most common form of ribbing is knit
two, purl two. In knit-two, purl-two ribbing, Procedure
the number of stitches cast on is usually 1. Slip the first stitch on the row off the left
divisible by four. needle onto the right needle without
knitting.
2. Knit the next stitch very loosely. There
are now two stitches on the right needle.
3. Insert the left needle through the left
side of the first stitch.

Knit the first two stitches, bring the yarn


forward and purl two stitches, then bring the
yarn to the back and knit two stitches.
Continue in this manner to the end of the
row. Always bring the yarn between the
needles. Do not go over the top of a needle, 4. Keep the yarn in the right hand very
as this will make a hole in the row of loose so that the second stitch remains
stitches. loose.

When you turn your work for the next row, 5. Bring the first stitch forward over the
the stitches that are purled on the previous second stitch and over the tip of the
row will become knit stitches on the needle so that one stitch remains on the
following row. Remember that an easy way needle.
to tell a knit stitch from a purl stitch is to
think of the knit stitch as a "V-neck"
sweater.
When binding off in ribbing, always
remember to bind off by knitting the knit
stitches and purling the purl stitches as if
you were continuing to rib.
Because of its elasticity, ribbing is 6. Repeat Steps 2 through 5 to bind off the
frequently used on the part of the garment remaining stitches.
that fits snugly, such as the waistband and
7. When you come to the last stitch, clip
cuffs of a sweater and the tops of mittens
your yarn about 3 inches from the
and socks. Ribbing is usually worked on
needle. Bring the loose end through the
smaller size needles than the rest of the
stitch remaining on the needle and pull
garment.
tightly. Darn or weave in the loose end
so that it will not show.

10
Measuring the Gauge
Bind off the stitches on the sample and
place the sample on a flat surface. With a
ruler, measure across the sample, counting
rows to the inch.

If the project is going to require that a seam


be sewn along the bound-off edge, you may
wish to leave the yarn long enough to sew
the seam.

GAUGE
Gauge refers to the number of stitches to
the inch and the number of rows to the inch.
The correct gauge is essential to knitting a
The above figure shows how to measure
garment of the right size and fit. Gauge is
the garter stitch. The gauge is 4 stitches = 1
determined by the size of the needles, the
inch (2.5 cm) and 9 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm).
type of yarn, and the tension and rhythm of
the individual. Tension and rhythm are The figure below shows how to measure
developed through practice and will vary the stockinette stitch. The gauge is 5
from person to person. stitches = 1 inch (2.5 cm) or 10 stitches = 2
inches and 6 rows = 1 inch (2.5 cm).
Tension is the "pull" on the yarn as it
passes through the fingers. Tension
controls the tightness or looseness of the
knitting. An even tension is achieved by
passing yarn through relaxed fingers. The
stitches should be loose enough so that the
needle passes through easily but tight
enough so that the stitches don't fall off the
needle.
Rhythm is the flow of one hand knitting By using a 2-inch measure, you allow for
movement to the next. With practice, variation. If one inch has fewer stitches than
rhythm will become steady and smooth. the directions called for, you need to use a
smaller needle. If it has more stitches, you
Check the Gauge need to use a larger needle.
Knitting instructions will specify the gauge. The needle sizes given in the knitting
The gauge should always be checked by instructions are only suggested sizes. Use
making a sample square using the same any size needle that will produce the correct
yarn and needle size given in the gauge.
instructions. Cast on 20 stitches and knit for
3 inches (7.6 cm) or more in the same stitch Experiment with needle sizes until the exact
used for the major portion of the project. gauge is achieved. In testing gauge, don't
unravel previous samples and reuse the

11
yarn. Knitting with used yarn can affect the 3. If you have a yarn on either piece of
gauge. your garment long enough to sew your
seam with, use it to sew your seam.
Otherwise, thread a piece of the same
SELVAGE yarn you used in knitting your garment
into your yarn needle and attach the
The selvage is the edge of your knitting. To yarn with a single knot to the wrong side
make a neater edge and one that is easier of the piece on the right. Leave about 2
to seam, slip the first stitch of each row inches of yarn on the end of the knot.
instead of knitting or purling the stitch. Do not cut the yarn close to the knot, as
the knot may come untied.
SEWING SEAMS
When you finish knitting a garment, it is a
big temptation to sew up the seams as
quickly as possible. Don't be tempted!
Seams are a very important part of a knitted
garment, and good seams take time, care,
and patience. 4. Now insert your needle into the top half
There are several kinds of seams. of the first stitch on the right and then
Sometimes it is best to use one seam, and into the top half of the first stitch on the
at other times it is best to use another. The left and pull the yarn through the two
important thing is to use the seam that stitches firmly.
looks best and is most suitable for the 5. Next insert your needle into the top half
article. of the second stitch on the right and the
Be sure your finished seam has as much top half of the second stitch on the left.
elasticity, or stretch, as your knitted fabric, Put the fingers of your left hand under
whichever type of seam you choose to use. your work and put your thumb on the
outside of the first stitch you made. Hold
the first stitch tightly with your thumb
Flat Overcast Seam
and fingers as you pull the thread for
1. If you look carefully at the side of a your second stitch firmly. Continue in
knitted fabric, you will see that the end this manner, sewing through the top half
stitches of your fabric have 2 threads of every stitch, until you have finished
forming a top and bottom edge (if you your seam.
have slipped the first stitch of each row).

Be very careful to hold the last stitch


2. Place the 2 pieces to be sewn side by completed with the thumb and fingers of
side with edges even and wrong side your left hand while you pull the yarn to
up. tighten the stitch you are working on. In

12
this way your seam will be firm but still
have elasticity. If you fail to hold each
stitch in this manner each time you pull
a new stitch, your yarn will pull too
tightly the full length of your seam, and
the seam will be too tight.
6. Check your work every few inches to
make sure that it is flat and even on the
right side and that your seam has 4. To make a backstitch, bring the needle
enough "stretch." out on the right side, insert it back to the
end of the last stitch, then from the
wrong side bring the needle out on the
right side in front of the yarn. Repeat
until you have the desired length of
seam.

If you find that the two edges are not


coming out even (in other words, if one
side has a few more stitches than the
other), skip a stitch now and then on the
longer side to make them come out
even at the end of your seam. 5. Do not pull the stitches too tightly, as
your finished seam should have
7. When your seam is completed, it should elasticity.
be flat and even with almost as much
stretch or elasticity as your knitted 6. It is wise to check the right side of your
fabric. work from time to time to ensure
neatness.
7. Steam seams open and flat.
Backstitch Seam
1. Pin, and then baste the pieces to be FINISHING YARN
joined together with edges even and ENDS
right sides together with the wrong sides
out. After the knitted
article is completed,
2. Thread a yarn needle with the same finish all yarn ends by
yarn used in the knitting. If using 4-ply weaving the yarn into
yarn, you can "split it" and use only 2-ply the seam. If there is
for the seam. (If you have a length of no seam, separate the strand of yarn into
yarn left on either piece long enough for two sections before weaving the yarn.
your seam, use it.)
To weave in the yarn, thread it into a
3. Sew the seam with a backstitch about tapestry needle. Weave the yarn into the
1/4-inch from the edge wrong side of the knitting for about 2
inches. For yarn separated into sections,
weave the sections in opposite directions.
The woven-in yarn should not be visible
from the right side.
13
INCREASING Yarn Over
Increasing is the technique of adding Yarn over (yo) is another method of
stitches so that the project becomes wider. increasing. It is also used to make an eyelet
There are many ways to increase in and to help form many pattern stitches.
knitting. To yarn over before a knit stitch, bring your
The increase stitch most commonly used is yarn to the front of the right-hand needle
to knit into the front and then into the back and knit the next stitch. Thus, a loop is
of the same stitch before removing it from formed on the right needle and an extra
the needle. Knitting instructions may refer stitch is added.
to this as "k in front and back of st."
This method of increasing is used at the
edge of a garment for shaping and at
places where the increase itself forms part
of the design of a garment, such as in
raglan sleeve seams.
How to Increase in Knitting
To yarn over before a purl stitch, wrap the
1. When you wish to increase the number
yarn completely around the right-hand
of stitches in the row, knit one stitch but
needle and purl the next stitch in the usual
do not slip this stitch off the left needle.
manner. Thus, a loop is formed on the right-
hand needle and an extra stitch is added.

2. Move the right-hand needle behind the


left-hand needle. Insert the needle in
back of the same stitch and knit another
stitch.
DECREASING
Decreasing is the technique for reducing
the number of stitches so that the project
becomes narrower. To decrease means to
take away from the number of stitches you
are working with. The decrease, like the
increase, is used to shape your work or to
help form a design in your knitted garment.

3. Slip the stitch off the left-hand needle.


There will be two stitches transferred to
the right-hand needle instead of one.

14
How to Decrease When Knitting JOINING YARN
On a knit row, knit two stitches together (k 2 Joining yarn is the technique of attaching a
tog). This method produces a stitch new skein of yarn to the yarn already in
decreasing that slants to the right when use. Joining yarn is also used to create
seen on the right side of a project. stripes in knitted articles.
For best results, always join the new yarn at
the beginning of a row. A yarn that has
been joined in the middle of a row may be
visible from the right side of the project.
To join yarn at the beginning of a row, tie
How to Decrease When Purling the new yarn to the old one using a single
knot.
On a purl row, purl two stitches together (p
2 tog).

Figure HH

Decreasing by slip one, knit one, pass


slip stitch over (psso):
Slip one stitch (from the left-hand to the Tighten the knot and move it up close to the
right-hand needle without knitting—sl 1—as work. Continue knitting, using the new yarn.
in the figure below). The knot can shift causing the first few
stitches to have a loose tension. Therefore,
readjust the knot and tighten those stitches
before completing the row. After you have
knitted a few rows you can go back and
weave the tail ends into the back of your
knitting.

Then, knit one stitch (k 1). This method When your design calls for color changes,
makes the resulting decreased stitch slant the directions will identify whether you are
to the left. With the left-hand needle, pass working with a main color (MC) or a
the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch contrasting color (CC). You may have
(psso). more than one contrasting color, in which
each will be identified separately.

Splicing Yarns
This method may be used on a 4-ply yarn.
You may splice other yarns, but not by
splitting.
You may join yarn by splicing anywhere in
your work. If splicing is done carefully and
properly, it is almost impossible to detect
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the join. To splice yarn, unravel the end of pattern stitch by casting on the multiple of
both pieces of yarn (the old and the new) stitches called for in the pattern. This will
for about 4 inches. not only allow you to become thoroughly
Separate the threads and cut two of the 4 acquainted with the appearance of the
plies off about 3 inches from the end pattern, but it will also give you the
opportunity of working the pattern so you
will be at ease and your tension will be
more even.
Directions are included here for just a few
of the many pattern stitches.

Seed Stitch (also known as the moss or


Dampen the tips of all 8 strands. Lay the rice stitch)—
strands of both pieces of yarn together;
dovetail or roll them all together following
the original twist of the yarn as much as
possible.

ƒ Cast on an uneven number of stitches.


PATTERN STITCHES
ƒ Row 1—*K 1 st, p 1 st. Repeat from *
Once you have advanced to the point across the row, ending with k 1.
where your knitting tension is even, and you ƒ Repeat this row. In making this stitch, be
can do most of the basic knitting steps with sure to k the purl sts and p the knit
skill and ease, you are ready to add stitches on the following row.
distinction and individuality to your work
with pattern stitches. Basket Stitch (also know as block stitch)—
Regardless of how intricate some pattern
stitches appear to be, they are all made
with a combination of the basic knitting
stitches and steps that you have already
learned. (Ribbing used in the body of a
garment is considered a pattern stitch.
Ribbing used to finish the edges of a
garment is not considered a pattern stitch.)
ƒ Cast on a number of stitches divisible by
In reading the directions for a garment 10 (multiple of 10).
made with a pattern stitch, you will more ƒ Row 1—*K 5, p 5. Repeat from * across
than likely find the term “multiple of the row, ending with p 5.
stitches.” This means that to have the
pattern work out correctly, the number of ƒ Repeat this row 4 more times.
stitches cast on must be divisible by the ƒ Row 6—*P 5, k 5. Repeat from * across
multiple given. For instance, multiple of 5 the row, ending with k 5.
sts would be any number divisible by 5, ƒ Repeat this row 4 more times.
e.g., 25. If the multiple is 5 sts plus 1, the
number of stitches cast on must be divisible ƒ Repeat these 10 rows for the pattern
by 5 and 1 stitch over, or 26. stitch.
When you have selected your pattern,
make a fairly large swatch, working in the

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Diamond Stitch— ƒ Row 7—P 3, *slip next 3 sts on a
double-point needle and place in back of
work. K next 3 sts, then k the 3 sts from
a double-point needle (forms cable). P4.
Repeat from * across the row, ending
with a cable and p 3.
ƒ Row 8—Repeat Row 2.
ƒ Repeat these 8 rows for the pattern
ƒ Cast on a multiple of 8 sts, plus 1 st. stitch.

ƒ Row 1—K 4, *p 1, k 7. Repeat from * This is a 6-stitch simple cable stitch. There
across the row, ending with p 1, k 4. are several variations of the cable stitch,
such as the plaited cable, lattice cable,
ƒ Row 2—P 3, *k 1, p 1, k 1, p 5. Repeat mock cable, etc.
from * across the row, ending with p 3.
ƒ Row 3—K 2, *p 1, k 3. Repeat from *
across the row, ending with k 2. “Holes” Before Cables
ƒ Row 4—*P 1, k 1, p 5, k 1. Repeat from In most cable patterns you will find a series
* across the row, ending with p 1. of purl stitches before and after the cable.
ƒ Row 5—*P 1, k 7. Repeat from * across Sometimes when working a cable stitch, a
the row, ending with p 1. “hole” or loose stitch will appear before or
after the cable. To prevent, pull yarn tighter
ƒ Row 6—Same as Row 4. than usual when bringing the yarn back to
ƒ Row 7—Same as Row 3. the front of the work to purl. Sometimes
this same flaw will occur when working
ƒ Row 8—Same as Row 2. ribbing, and may be corrected in the same
ƒ Repeat these 8 rows for the pattern way.
stitch.
BLOCKING
Cable Stitch—
For best results, always read the yarn or
thread label and follow the manufacturer's
blocking and care recommendations. The
method you use to block your project is
determined by the fiber content of the yarns
or threads.

For Synthetics and Blended Yarns


Follow the instructions on the yarn label. As
ƒ Multiple of 10 sts plus 2 sts. a general rule, individual pieces can be
blocked by covering with a damp cloth such
ƒ Row 1—P 3, *k 6, p 4. Repeat from * as a dish towel for several minutes (5 to 10
across the row, ending with k 6, p 3. minutes). Cloth should be thoroughly wet
ƒ Row 2—K 3, p 6, *k 4, p 6. Repeat from with excess dripping water removed before
* across the row, ending with k 3. placing on knitted piece. When blocking two
pieces which are exactly the same shape,
ƒ Repeat rows 1 and 2 twice (6 rows in
place damp cloth between pieces. NEVER
all).

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press synthetics or blends since pressing procedure that uses a damp cloth or steam,
destroys the loft of the yarn. always allow the pieces to dry completely
before lifting. Do not block the ribbing
For Cotton Yarn portion of a piece, as this will destroy the
elasticity (ability to stretch).
Preheat the iron at the wool setting. Cover
the pieces with a damp cloth and steam.
The weight of the iron should not rest on ORNAMENTATION
the piece of knitting.
Pom-poms
For Wool Yarns Cut two rounded discs the desired size
Preheat the iron at the wool setting. Cover (2½-inches in diameter for a medium size
the pieces with a damp cloth and steam. pom-pom, larger for a larger pom-pom) and
Never rest the full weight of the iron on then cut a ¼- to ½-inch hole in center.
knitting done in wool yarn. Cardboard or plastic tops from margarine
tubs are good materials to use for the discs.
Here are some general procedures to follow Thread a yarn needle with two strands of
when blocking worsted wool yarn: yarn and cover the discs.
1. Prepare a blocking surface by covering
a flat surface such as a table or ironing
board with several layers of towels.
2. Then, place the project piece wrong side
up on the blocking surface. Pin the
edges to the proper shape and
measurements given in the directions;
use rust-proof T-pins, about ¼ inch After the discs are entirely covered, slip
apart. If blocking surface would be scissors between them and cut all threads
harmed by pin holes, insert the pins into at the outside edge.
the towels at an angle.
Note: If your project is made in
separate pieces, such as a back and a
front, the two identical pieces should be
blocked at the same time.
3. Place a damp cloth over the pieces
already pinned; then steam with a hot
iron held just barely above the damp
cloth. Wind a thread several times between the
4. Leave the project pinned until
thoroughly dry.
5. Remove the pins and sew up the
seams by the desired method.
6. Steam seams on the wrong side.
Wool items, whether they are fabric or yarn, discs, leaving the ends long enough to join
require the use of moisture when pressing. pompom and article. Remove cardboard
This could be in the form of steam iron and/ and trim. To make your pompom very
or a damp press cloth. For any blocking fuzzy, place the finished pompom on the
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end of a table fork and hold it over a steam
kettle; keep turning the pompom slowly until
it is moist and fuzzy. Be very careful not to
burn yourself!
Pom-poms give a nice finished touch to the
top of a cap or house slippers.

Tassels Draw the loose ends through the loop and


pull them tightly to form a knot.
For tassels, use scrap yarn and a
rectangular piece of cardboard that is 3-
inches long or the desired length of your
tassel.
Cut two lengths of yarn 10-inches long and
put them aside. Wind remaining yarn
around the cardboard. Slip the two 10-inch
lengths of yarn under the strands at one
end of the cardboard and tie it securely. Cut
the strands at the opposite end. Add fringe to every other stitch across the
row, beginning with the first stitch and
ending with the last stitch. Trim the fringe
evenly.
Use fringe to finish the ends of scarves,
afghans, and ponchos.

Twisted Cord
With another length of yarn, wrap the
bundle about 1/2-inch Measure yarn approximately three times
down from the top where the desired finished length of cord. You
you first tied the bundle should determine how many strands of yarn
together, fasten securely. to use for particular thickness (to
Trim the ends of your experiment, you might want to try four).
tassel evenly. With two people facing each other, each
Tassels can be used person knots the end to a pencil and twists
instead of fringe on the the pencil clockwise until the yarn is taut.
edge of a scarf, the end of a stocking cap,
or the corners of pillows.

Fringe
Cut strands of yarn double the desired
length. Hold 4 strands together and fold When the yarn begins to kink, one person
them in half to form a loop. Working along holds both pencils, while the other holds the
the narrow edge, and insert a crochet hook center of the cord and lets the yarn twist.
from back to front into the first stitch. Draw
a loop through the stitch.

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Knot the ends to prevent unraveling. Cut
folded end to allow yarn to form tassels;
trim ends to match. Twisted cord may be
used as a handle for knitted purse.

KNITTING ABBREVIATIONS

Approx approximately ndl(s) needle(s)


BC or CB back cross oz ounce
beg beginning p purl
bet between p2tog purl two together
BO bind off pM place marker
CC contrasting color psso pass slipped stitch over knit (or
cm(s) centimeter(s) purl) stitch
cn cable needle pwise purl wise - as to purl
CO cast on rem remaining
dec decrease rep(s) repeat(s)
dk double knitting --both a yarn size rev st st reverse stockinette stitch
and a knitting technique RH right hand
dpn(s) double pointed needle(s) rnd round
FC or CF front cross RS right side
g or gr gram(s) RT right twist
g st garter stitch sk skip
in(s) inch(es) skp slip, knit pass stitch over
inc increase (a way to decrease)
k knit sl slip
k2tog knit two together sl st slip stitch
(a right slanted decrease) sl1k slip one, knitwise
kf&b knit in front and back of stitch (a way sl1p slip one, purlwise
to increase) ssk slip, slip, knit - a left slanting
kwise knit wise - as to knit decrease
LH left hand st st stockinette stitch
LT left twist st(s) stitch(es)
M1 make one - (a way to increase) TB twist back
tbl through back loop
MC main color
TF twist front
meas measures
tog together
mm(s) millimeter(s)
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This publication is based on Let’s Learn to Knit with Knit & Purl, Let’s Learn to Knit with Increase and
Decrease, and Let’s Learn to Knit with a Pattern Stitch written by JoAnn Hilliker, State Extension Specialist in
Clothing and Textiles,Kentucky Cooperative Extension, 1978, which were based on “Let’s Learn to Knit” from the
Oregon Cooperative Extension Service. Many of the illustrations in this publication are courtesy of the Educational
Bureau, Coats and Clark, Inc.

Revised by Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.


Extension Associate Textiles and Clothing
February 2005

Educational programs of the Kentucky Cooperative Extension serve all people regardless of race, color, age, sex, religion, disability, or national origin.

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