FAD 2.

1 T – Fabric Science
Unit-1
Introduction to fabrics - Classification based on manufacturing technology. Methods of fabric formation - Woven,
knitted, and nonwoven, their properties and end-use. Classification of woven fabric - Khadi, handloom, and power
loom fabrics. Woven fabric formation - Weaving preparatory, objectives and a brief study of the process- warping,
sizing, drawing, denting, and weft winding.
Introduction to fabrics.
Fabric (or cloth/material) is a flexible, 2D sheet made by interlacing or interlocking yarns/fibers, forming a stable
structure used for clothing, furnishings, and technical items, created through methods like weaving, knitting, or
non-woven bonding, derived from natural (cotton, wool) or synthetic (polyester, nylon) sources.
The word fabric comes from “fabrique” of French origin. This word refers to meaning “to build, make, construct,
create, etc.” In Textile, fabric refers to article which helps to cover human body or cover an object is called fabric.
There are three types of basic fabric manufacturing methods- woven(Interlacing), nonwoven, knit(Interlooping)
fabric.
[Link](woven):
Mainly, woven fabrics are in this category. Intersection or interlacement of two warp ends and weft ends
(picks or filling), which cross and interweave at right angles to each other.

Woven fabric, plain weave structure

[Link](knits):
Interlooping of yarn used to produce knit fabrics. Interlooping in the warp direction of the fabric is for
warp knitted fabric and in the weft direction for weft knitted fabric. These two are the main types of knit
fabric.

Weft and warp knitted interlooping

[Link]:
In the word nonwoven, we can understand that the fabric is not made by either interlooping or interlacing and
intertwining(Braiding/Plaiting). Nonwoven fabric is made from fiber directly by some mechanical process or
operations. In nonwoven fabric, fibers are bonded by a mechanical, chemical or thermal process.

Nonwoven fabric
Methods of fabric formation - Woven, knitted, and nonwoven, their properties and end-use:
[Link] Fabric Manufacturing Process:
Woven fabric is mainly made by interlacement of warp and weft threads. Warp yarn and weft yarn are generally
prepared in different ways. For weaving, warp and weft yarn needs to be prepared and turned into the desired cone
or package.

Woven fabric manufacturing process

Weaving preparation:
Weaving preparatory process:
Weaving is the most popular technique of fabric manufacturing. In case of weaving, two sets of yarn are required
to produce a fabric. One is warp, which runs along the length of the fabric and the other is weft, which runs along
the width of the fabric. Warp yarns are usually stronger and more compact than the weft or filling yarns. Yarns as
manufactured and packaged are not actually suitable for direct use to form fabrics. It is necessary to prepare it to be
handled efficiently during fabric formation, to the technique of weaving, the warp yarns are subjected to much
higher stresses because of the more rigorous treatments meted out to them than the weft yarns in a weaving
machine.
In order to make the warp yarns aptly prepared for that, they require extra and more elaborate preparation. The weft
yarns in contrast, are subjected to far less stresses in any type of weaving system and are thus, easily prepared for
the weaving process. Moreover, the feed package of weft yarn for weaving, pirn or cone, is made from the single
yarn whereas, the warp beam is made from a few thousand warp ends. Therefore, the preparations of the warp and
weft yarns for weaving are significantly different and the preparation of warp beam demands more precise and
uniform control of tension of all the constituent warp yarns.
Spinning industries supply their yarn package but the weaving industry can’t use these yarns. Before starting
weaving, the yarns of prepared depends on the use. In weaving, warp threads passed with more tension and friction
compared to weft threads. Warp and weft yarns are subjected to different conditions and requirements during
weaving.
With the advent of new methods of spinning viz. open-end, air-jet and friction spinning, the spun yarns are wound
on large packages. In such cases the packages of weft yarns may not be required to be prepared further and are
taken straight to the weaving process with shuttleless looms.
The preparatory process for weaving involves transforming raw yarn into strong, organized warp threads ready for
the loom, primarily through winding (transferring yarn to cones/packages), warping (creating a parallel sheet of
yarn on a beam), sizing (applying a protective coating for strength), and finally drawing-in/denting (threading yarns
through heddles/reeds) to set up the loom for the actual interlacing of warp and weft yarns, ensuring strength, order,
and correct density.
There are three main steps of weaving preparatory process:
1. Winding
2. Warping
3. Sizing
Winding: Winding is the major preparation process for weft yarn. Warp preparation includes winding, warping,
sizing, and drawing in or tying in. The transformation of yarn from one package to another package is called
winding. For further processing, a Suitable yarn package is produced in winding. Unwinding zone, tension and
cleaning zone, and winding zone are three main steps of winding. Yarn from the spinner’s package passed through
the yarn guide. After the yarn guide yarn entered into tensioning and cleaning zone. The tension device creates
tension on the yarn to test the yarn if it is suitable for weaving and the yarn cleaner device cleans the yarn surfaces
then the yarn passes through a stop motion feeler and finally yarn is warped into the yarn package in winding zone.
Winding process:
The first stage of weaving preparatory process is winding, where the yarn, warp or weft spun in the spinning
process is wound to make a suitable package for the next processing. The yarn from the spinner’s package called
ring tube or bobbin, produced in the ring spinning, is transferred into a cheese, cone or spool depending on the
requirement at the next stage of processing. Winding is, thus, primarily the transfer of yarn from one form of
package to another but, under proper tension and in proper manner.
 Schematic of the winding process
Objects of winding:
1. To transfer yarn from one package to another suitable package, this can be conveniently used for used for
weaving process.
2. To increase the efficiency of yarn for the next processes.
3. Removing objectionable faults present in yarn contained in the supply package like hairiness, naps, slabs,
foreign matters.
4. To clean yarn.
5. To increase the quality of yarn.
6. To get a suitable package.
7. It is used to reduce end breakage.
8. To store the yarn.
9. Building a package of suitable dimensions compatible with the downstream processes.
The fundamental difference between weft winding for shuttle loom and warp winding is the relative sizes of the
feed and delivered packages. In case of weft winding a fairly large feed package like cheese or cone is used to
produce a comparatively small delivered package like pirn, while in case of the other, the feed package, ring tube or
bobbin is very much smaller than the delivered package, cheese or cone. However, if the delivered package of weft
is made for shuttleless looms, then the large package like cone is used straightway.
Warping process:
After finishing the yarn winding, selected cones are transported to next process, i.e. warping. Warping is an
essential weaving preparatory process in weaving mill. This is a very common say about warping, “good warping
finishes fifty percent weaving.”
while the preparation of weft for shuttle looms ends with pirn winding after the normal winding, preparation of
warp proceeds to warping following winding. From here onwards, many warp ends are processed together to
produce a warp package in the form of a beam, which in warping is the warpers’ beam. Required number of cones
of warp yarns is placed on the creel and the yarns are wound side-by-side under uniform tension to produce a large
parallel wound beam. Each warpers’ beam is required to contain as much yarn as possible and hence, each beam
has to be prepared hard and compact (except however, those for dyeing). Although any type of yarn package can be
used on the creel of the warping machine, the cone is the most suitable for highspeed operation because of the
reasons stated earlier.
Warping: Warp and weft yarn preparation is the most important step for weaving. In warping, warp ends are
warped into a beam for the next process. The industrial warping process mainly has two types
1. Sectional warping (Indirect or conical drum or dresser warping )
2. Beam warping or direct warping (preparatory beam warping)
Objectives of warping:
The major objective of warping is to prepare a warp sheet of desired length containing a desired number of yarns
that are wrapped on a flanged barrel in such a manner that tension in each yarn and density of yarn mass in the
cylindrical assembly are maintained within a given tolerance level throughout the wrapping of the warp beam
which can be used for sizing or next process. The process of warping is dedicated to the conversion of cones into a
beam of given specifications.
Sizing or slashing process:
Warp yarns are used to supply on looms where warp threads are subjected to repeatedly occurring various stresses
like cyclic strain, flexing, and abrasion. These unavoidable stresses cause frequent warp breaks which consequent
in the form of loom stoppages and finally, efficiency loss and fabric faults come in account. To minimize these
problems, warp yarns are needed to be sized.
Warp yarn sizing is an essential process to coat warp yarns with elastic film and bind fibers of yarns and lowering
fluff or hairiness so that the yarns may become so strong that they can resist the mechanical strain in weaving
process, and/or maintain or improve weaving efficiency. In other words, sizing is done to provide a protective
coating and to lubricate the surface of the yarn to enable it to withstand the abrasive action which occurs in the
weaving process. These facts define that the sizing process is very important for a successful woven fabric
manufacturing.
Final preparation of the warp beam for weaving is carried out in slashing or sizing process. Depending on the total
number of warp ends required for weaving, one warp beam is prepared from a number of warpers’ beam. Although
many of the faults of the warp yarns are removed mainly at winding and perhaps to some extent at warping and the
qualities of the yarns are thus much improved, the yarns are not yet good enough to withstand the rigorous abrasive
actions at weaving. This is taken care of at slashing or sizing, where the abrasion resistance of the yarns in addition
to their strength is increased and their hairiness is reduced by applying a protective coating that is, size, on them.
Slashing process consists of five main working zones as indicated in simple diagrammatic form

Objectives of sizing:
The main objective of sizing is to form a uniform layer of protective coating over warp yarn and lay down
protruding fibers that project out of its surface
Other objectives of sizing are as follows:
1. To increase the strength of yarn
2. To get the required number of ends
3. To cover the hairiness of yarn
4. To make yarn surface smooth and pliable.
5. To maintain flexibility in yarn
Drawing-in and Tying-in:
Drawing-in is the process of providing each end with a drop wire, a heddle in the proper harness and a dent in the
reed. In short it is the process of threading each end through the drop wire, heddles and the reed.
Tying-in is merely the cutting-off of the old warp and the end-to-end tying of the yarns from the new beam to the
corresponding warp yarns already in place on the loom. This operation generally occurs at the loom. When the mill
is producing long runs of the same fabric, tying-in is most prevalent.
Denting: Passing the warp end through the dent of the reed of the loom.
Looming: Before starting the weaving on a loom, the necessary steps needed to prepare the loom for weaving such
as drafting, denting, drawing, pinning, gaiting and knotting are called looming.

Looming process
Tying-in: The procedure known as “tying-in” involves cutting the ends of the old warp beam, which is now a
fabric beam, and attaching the ends of the new warp beam to the matching ends of the old beam.
Weaving preparatory process plays major roles in achieving the desired performance at weaving. Ultimate
packages of warp and weft yarns prepared at these stages are used as the feed materials for looms, where the yarns
are unwound during the course of weaving. How best the yarns can be unwound from their respective packages
depend on how best the packages have been prepared at the various preparatory processes. Requisite shape and size
of a yarn package needed for a given type of loom can be prepared if the yarn is wound under optimum tension
with as little variation as possible. Too low winding tension will result in soft packages and cause irregular
withdrawal of the yarns while, too high winding tension will destroy much of the extensibility of the yarn and make
the yarn vulnerable to breakage. The qualities of the feed materials for weaving have become even more stringent
after the introduction of the high speed shuttleless weaving machines, which with relatively small depth of shed,
demand greater uniformity in tension of all the warp yarns and smooth withdrawal of the weft yarn from its
package for faultless insertion. It may therefore, be said that properly prepared warp beams and weft packages
assure half the desired performance of a loom.
Properties of Woven fabrics
 Dimensional Stability: Woven fabrics are firm and hold their shape well, making them ideal for
structured and tailored garments.
 Durability & Strength: The interlacing of threads creates a robust structure with high tensile
strength and abrasion resistance, meaning they can withstand heavy wear and tear.
 Minimal Stretch: Unlike knits, woven fabrics generally do not stretch unless they are pulled
diagonally on the bias or blended with elastic fibers like elastane.
 Breathability: Depending on the fiber (e.g., cotton or linen), many woven fabrics offer high air
permeability, which helps reduce sweating and increases comfort.
 Fraying: Because the yarns are interlaced rather than looped, the raw edges of woven fabrics tend
to fray or ravel easily if not finished with a hem or selvage.
 Easily shaped: Woven fabrics can be shaped easily and therefore can be produced in accordance with
many different designs.

END USES:

Category Specific Applications

Apparel Formal shirts (poplin), jeans (denim), trousers

(twill/gabardine), evening gowns (satin/chiffon), and
uniforms.

Home Bed linens (percale/sheeting), heavy upholstery for sofas,

Furnishings curtains, towels, and tablecloths.

Technical & Filtration membranes, conveyor belts, and safety gear like
Industrial harnesses or bulletproof vests.

Automotive Durable seat covers, headliners, and interior insulation.

Medical Surgical bandages, gowns, and gauze.

Packaging & Heavy-duty woven sacks for grains or cement,

Construction and geotextiles for soil reinforcement in infrastructure
projects.

[Link]:
Knits refer to making Knit fabric by interconnecting the yarn loops using needles. In a Knit fabric, the first loop of
yarn is entangled with the second loop. Similarly, it goes on to make a chain structure. If a single loop of yarn
breaks, then the whole structure can be disturbed because all loops are connected to each other.
Physical testing of fabric confirms that knit fabric is porous, elastic, and more comfortable than woven garments.
Its production process is easy and can be made cheaper than the woven fabric. Knit fabric is lightweight, which
gives comfort during outdoor activities and travel.
Knitted fabric resists wrinkles. It is mostly used for sports outfits due to its elastic nature.
Concept of Wale and Course
In Knitting, as we know, the fabric is produced with a single yarn by intermeshing the loops. So here is a concept
regarding the direction of yarn loops, which is followed in the cloth testing laboratory.
Wale: The vertical loops of yarn are called wale.
Course: The horizontal loops of yarn are called course.

Concept of Wale and Course

Example of Knitted Fabrics
Knitted fabrics perform better in comfort, flexibility, and breathability than woven fabrics. So, knitted fabrics are
commonly used in clothes that are worn daily. It includes T-shirts, sweaters, leggings, socks, shorts, jackets, coats
and baby rompers.
Why is Knit Fabric Stretchy?
The knit fabrics are stretchy and elastic and give more comfort to the wearer than woven fabrics. It is due to the
interloping structure of yarn that gives the fabric a space to stretch and then revert to its original shape.
The tightness of intermeshing affects the stretching ability of the fabric. It will keep the fabric straight. The main
factors that affect the knit fabric stretchiness are below.
1. Yarn Type
2. Knitting Technique
3. Needle Size
4. Tension
5. Fabric Density
How is Knitting Done?
Knitting is done with a single yarn by making yarn loops through needles. These loops are interwoven to each other
to create a fabric sheet. It’s a common use of this fabric in clothing.
The Different Types of Knit Fabrics
The different types of knit fabrics are created by adjusting the needle speed and thread tension using various
knitting machines in the textile lab.
The two main types of knit garments are listed below.
1. Warp Knit Fabrics
2. Weft Knit Fabrics

Both types of fabrics are made by yarn interloping. There are small differences in their physical look.
Warp Knit Fabrics
Warp knit fabric is created by interloping the yarn in a V shape. Its pattern is more complicated than that of a weft
knit. Its production is fast, and a lot of fabric can be produced. Warp knit has more strength than weft knit
garments.
In warp knit fabric manufacturing, threads must be straightened from their spool on a warp beam.

Warp Knit Fabric Machine

Examples of Warp Knit Fabrics
1. Tricot Fabric
2. Raschel Fabric
3. Powernet Fabric
4. Net Fabric
Here are a few details on warp knit fabrics.
Tricot Fabric
Warp knit fabrics have more strength than weft knits. Warp knits are used for athletic shorts like football and other
games without using elastic material. If we use spandex or any elastic material, then it is used for swimsuits and
tights.
Raschel Fabric
Raschel fabric is made using a regular Raschel and Jacquard Raschel machine. In this fabric, manmade fiber or
synthetic filament is used to create various lace designs for women’s outfits. This lace fabric has a very
complicated knitting pattern. It is mostly used in ladies’ sportswear and dancewear.
Powernet Fabric
This fabric is made on Powernet machines. In this fabric manufacturing, we use polyester or nylon fabric with any
elastic material like spandex to create Powernet knit. It is mostly used in normal and sports undergarments like
underwear and tights.
It is also used in bra interlining to increase support for sports activities.
Net Fabric
This fabric is produced by knitting with monofilament yarn. The net fabric has no elasticity. Its famous example is
the traditional Indian sari.
2. Weft Knit Fabrics (Circular knit / Tubular knit)
Weft knit fabrics are the most common type of knit fabrics. It is created on circular machines. In these types,
threads are interloped in an exact V shape pattern. This type of fabric has lower resilience ability than warp knits.

Weft Knit Fabric Machine (Circular Knitting)

Weft knit fabrics are the most common type of knit fabrics. It is created on circular machines. In these types,
threads are interloped in an exact V shape pattern. This type of fabric has lower resilience ability than warp knits.
If one loop of yarn breaks, then the whole structure of loops is affected in weft knits. That is why there is a hole in
the fabric in weft knits, and then it can easily expand and grow more.
Weft knits can be easily stretched due to their pattern. This type of fabric has more elasticity than warp-knit
garments.
Examples of Weft Knit Fabrics
1. Single jersey fabric
 Plain single jersey fabric
 Pique single jersey fabric
 Baby French terry single jersey fabric
2. Double knit fabric / Interlock fabric
 Plain interlock fabric
 Pique double-knit fabric
 RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabric
 Birdseye mesh
 Scuba fabric (spacer fabric, spacer foam fabric, air mesh fabric)
 Pont de Roma fabric
3. Jacquard fabric
4. French Terry Fabric / Toweling Fabric / Polar Fleece Fabric
Single Jersey Fabric
Single jersey fabric can be identified easily. Its front and back sides are not the same. The front side is neat, clean,
and plain, while the back side looks rough. This type of fabric is usually thinner and softer.
1. Plain single jersey fabric
Plain jersey fabric is used for T-shirts and underwear.
2. Pique single jersey fabric
Pique single jersey fabric is used for Polo T-shirts.
3. Baby French terry single jersey fabric
Baby French terry single jersey fabric is used for winter clothing. It is used with elastic material to produce stretchy
pants that provide more comfort in outdoor activities and sports.
Double knit fabric / Interlock fabric
Double knit fabric, as expressed by its name. The fabric is formed with a double layer of single jersey to create a
garment in which the front and back sides are similar, neat, and clean.
1. Plain interlock fabric
The plain interlock fabric is used for baby garments, underwear, and sportswear.
2. Pique double-knit fabric
Pique double knit fabric has both front and back sides in pique form. This fabric is usually thicker than single
jersey fabric, and it is used for making polo shirts. Pique shirts are slightly stiffer than single-jersey and double-
jersey fabric.
3. RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabric
RIB fabric / flat back RIB fabric/drop needle RIB fabrics are used to create shorter length and width fabrics like
collars, cuffs, and hems. However, delicate RIB fabric is used to produce large articles.
4. Birdseye mesh
The Birdseye mesh fabric is used for sportswear. It has small holes that provide good ventilation and air circulation
through the fabric to maintain the body’s temperature. It gives a comfortable feel during sports and heavy workout
activities.
5. Scuba fabric (spacer fabric, spacer foam fabric, air mesh fabric)
Scuba fabric has a relatively hard layer of monofilament yarn between the two sheets of normal garment. It looks
like there is foam between the fabric sheets. Hard monofilament between normal layers of fabric enhances the
overall garment strength.
It is normally used in Bra and sports Bra. Hard monofilament yarn uses depend upon the requirements of the
wearer. There are also scuba fabrics that use normal yarn fabric between the two layers.
The normal thread garment is not as stiff as monofilament yarn. So it totally depends upon the requirement of
sports activity.
6. Pont de Roma fabric
This fabric has multiple similar names, like Pot de Roma, Ponte Roma, and Ponte di Roma. This fabric is mostly
used to make dress pants and suits. Pont de Roma fabric has a good fall and nice shape.
Jacquard fabric
Jacquard fabric is produced on Jacquard machines, which are of two types.
1. Single Jacquard
2. Double Jacquard
There is a separate machine for single jersey and double jersey fabric. In Jacquard fabric, multiple and various knit
patterns can be made using a computer and a machine. Knit designs are drawn through a computer, which gives the
possibility for a variety of designs.
This fabric is used for sportswear and swimwear.
French Terry Fabric / Toweling Fabric / Polar Fleece Fabric
This fabric is used to produce polar fleece fabric. Its front side is plain, while the back side shows the thread loops.
Flat Knit Fabrics
Flat knit fabrics are the type of weft knits. Bit in flat knit, we create fabrics of shorter length and width using this
method. For example, this type of knit is used in collars, gloves, and socks.
Characteristics of Knit Fabric
Characteristics of Knit Fabric
1. Stretch ability
Knit fabrics are stretchy as compared to woven fabrics. It is due to their looping structure, which gives fabric extra
space in case of stretching, and then it recovers to its original state. Stretch ability is tested by fabric lab test
machine.
2. Breathability
Knitted fabric tests confirm that its breathability is better than woven fabrics due to its porosity. This structure
allows air to pass through it and gives a comfortable feel.
3. Softness
Knit fabric’s softness is better than woven fabrics. Knit garments are more comfortable and give a better hand-feel
finish.
4. Fabric Thickness
Knit fabrics are thicker than woven fabrics.
5. Light Weight
Knit fabrics are lightweight, so they give a comfortable feel to wear.
6. Resistant to Wrinkle
Knitted fabrics are resistant to wrinkles and creases. It can withstand wear and tear. This test is confirmed in the
fabric testing laboratory.
Tips on Working with Knit Fabric
Here are the practical tips for working with knit fabrics regarding needle size, use of thread for sewing, and
techniques for sewing.
Tips on Working with Knit Fabric
Needle Size
Most knits are sewn in 8 -12 needle sizes. For stretchy garments, use needle sizes 3 -5, which are called twin
needles. High stretch knits are sewn by stretch needles in sizes 5 – 7. For better and smoother sewing, use a
walking foot or Teflon foot.
Use of Thread
Cotton knitted fabrics are sewn with cotton threads. You should use matching thread with fabric. Stretchy knits are
sewn by polyester or nylon thread. Serger thread is used for over-lock stitching.
Sewing Techniques
Seam construction is handled by zigzag stitch. Seams finishing is done by using an overlock machine. Seams
curling is avoided by pressing and doing flat. Stretch stitch is used for hemming. A twin needle does topstitching.
Difference between Woven and Knit Fabric:
What is woven fabric definition?
“The fabric produced by the inter-meshing the two sets of yarn is called woven fabric.”
While the interloping of yarn forms knitted fabrics. Both fabrics have unique characteristics and have their own
end-user application.
Here are the main common differences between the woven and knit fabric.
Woven Fabric
1. Woven fabric is made by the weaving process in which interlacement of warp and weft yarns are carried
out to produce the textile. Woven fabric is created on a “Loom” machine. Loon has a big setup and is
costly.
2. In woven fabric, we use two sets of yarns to create the fabric. Vertical yarns are called “warp” and
horizontal yarn is called “weft”. These warp and weft yarns are interlaced together by up and down way or
any other design to make fabric.
3. Woven fabrics are not stretchable or very less stretchable due to their structure. The surface of woven
fabrics is usually hard and not stretched. Woven fabric is quite tough because of the over-under weave of
the crisscrossing thread structure. It has higher tensile strength.
4. Woven fabric is less comfortable due to its tight structure, more stable, thinner, not wrinkle resistant, easy
to sew, and less soft than knitted fabrics.
5. Woven fabric has low absorption capacity, lower recovery properties, and higher labor costs. Woven fabrics
need seam finish like surging to prevent ravel.
Knit Fabric
1. The knitting process involves intermeshing the loops of the yard to produce the fabric. In this process, we
use single yarn to create the fabric structure. Knitted fabric is created on a “Knitting” machine. It is less
expensive than loom and has a smaller setup.
 2. In Knitting, the vertical loop is called “Wale,” and the horizontal loop is called “course.” The surface of
Knit fabrics is soft and stretchy. Knit fabric can stretch out easily and does not have a lot of strength.
3. Knitted fabrics are more stretchable and elastic. It is just due to the loop structure that it helps with
elasticity. For example, T-shirts, socks, and sweaters can easily stretch, and then they come back to their
original position.
4. Knit fabric is very comfortable, soft, and form-fitting, often used for clothing that drapes or hugs the body.
This fabric is less stable. It requires very careful handling during wet processing and stitching.
5. Knitted fabric is much thicker, softer, and more breathable, has excellent wrinkle resistance, is not easy to
sew due to more elasticity, has more absorption capacity and less labour cost, has higher recovery
characteristics, and No seam finish is required.
Knitted fabrics are produced by interconnecting the yarn loops using needles. It has more stretchability,
breathability, softness, fabric thickness, and comfort level than woven fabrics. Knitted fabrics are lightweight and
resistant to wrinkle & crease.
Properties of Knit Fabrics
 Natural Stretch & Recovery: The loop structure acts like a series of springs, allowing the fabric to
expand significantly and then return to its original shape, even without added elastic fibers.
 Wrinkle Resistance: Because the loops bend rather than crease, knit fabrics naturally resist wrinkling and
rarely require ironing.
 High Breathability: The open gaps between loops allow for excellent air circulation and moisture
management, helping the body stay cool.
 Softness & Drape: Knits generally have a lower flexural rigidity than woven fabrics, resulting in a softer
feel and a more fluid drape that conforms to the body.
 Edge Behavior: Unlike woven fabrics that fray, weft knits (like jersey) tend to curl at the edges when cut
and can "run" or unravel if a single loop breaks.
ENDUSE:

Category Typical Applications

Apparel T-shirts (jersey), sweaters and cardigans, leggings, socks, underwear, and hosiery.

Sportswear High-performance activewear, compression gear, swimwear (tricot), and moisture-

wicking jerseys.

Medical Elastic bandages, compression stockings, and prosthetic socks.

Textiles

Technical & Automotive headliners, 3D spacer fabrics for cushioning, filtration nets, and
Industrial geotextiles for soil support.

Home Knitted blankets (chunky knits), jersey bed sheets, pillow covers, and soft upholstery.
Furnishings
[Link]-WOVEN FABRIC (NWF)
Non woven fabric (abbreviated as NWF) is a material similar to fabric, made from either short or long fibers that
are bonded together through methods such as chemical, mechanical, heat, or solvent treatment. Unlike traditional
textiles, non woven fabrics are not woven or knitted; instead, the fibers are entangled or fused together to form a
cohesive fabric.
This type of fabric is often used in industries like textiles to refer to materials like felt, which do not require the
conversion of fibers into yarn. While non-woven materials may lack more strength than woven fabrics, they can be
reinforced or densified by layering or adding a backing to enhance their durability. Recently, non-wovens have
emerged as a viable alternative to polyurethane foam in various applications.
Origin of Non Woven Fabric
Felt is a historical example of nonwoven fabric, dating back to the 1930s. This early material demonstrated the
potential of nonwoven technologies. However, it wasn’t until the 1950s, with the development of more refined
manufacturing processes, that thermal bonded non woven fabrics truly emerged as a distinct category.
Initially, the production of these fabrics involved using wool fibers, which were then subjected to processes
involving heat or moisture to bond them together. These early nonwovens were largely driven by the need for
inexpensive, disposable materials during wars, and primarily used in the medical field for items like masks and
dressings, where traditional woven fabrics were either too costly or time-consuming to produce.
After that, the invention of synthetic fibers like polyester, nylon, and rayon played a crucial role in the development
of non woven fabrics, as these materials could be easily manipulated through processes like bonding and
entanglement. When the technology for producing nonwovens improved, their applications expanded beyond
medicine and have become indispensable across various industries.
Non Woven Fabric Manufacturing Process
Non woven fabrics, found in everything from wipes to medical gowns, boast a unique manufacturing process
unlike woven or knitted fabrics. Here’s a breakdown of the key steps involved:
a. Raw Material Preparation
Selection: The first step is to choose the appropriate fibers based on the desired properties of the non woven fabric.
This can include raw materials like natural fibers (cotton, wool) or synthetic fibers (polyester, polypropylene).
Processing: The selected fibers are processed to remove impurities and prepare them for web formation. These
fibers also may be chopped into short lengths (staple fibers) or remain continuous. Some processes require carding,
opening and blending the fibers to achieve a uniform consistency.
b. Web Formation
This stage involves creating a web or sheet of fibers. Different methods can be employed:
 Dry Laying (Carding): Fibers are combed and aligned in parallel to form a web. This web can be further
layered to achieve the desired thickness and density. Then laid down randomly onto a moving conveyor
belt.
 Wet Laying: A water suspension of fibers is spread onto a forming wire mesh. The water is then drained,
leaving behind a fiber web.
 Meltblown Process: Molten polymer is extruded through a die with tiny holes, forming fine fibers that are
blown onto a collecting screen.
 Web formation involves creating a web or sheet of fibers
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The web of fibers needs to be held together to form a cohesive fabric. This can be achieved through several
methods:
Thermal Bonding
Heat is applied to fuse the fibers together. This can be done through calendar bonding, where the web is passed
between heated rollers, or through-air bonding, where hot air is circulated through the web to melt the fibers and
bond them.
Chemical Bonding
Adhesives or solvents are applied to the fiber web to bond the fibers. This method is often used to add specific
characteristics to the fabric, such as water resistance or enhanced strength.
Mechanical Bonding
The web is bonded by physically entangling the fibers through methods like needle punching or
hydroentanglement:
 Needle Punching: This method involves mechanically interlocking fibers within a nonwoven web using
barbed needles. The needles are mounted on a board and repeatedly puncture the web, grabbing and pulling
fibers through the layers. As the needles are withdrawn, the fibers become tangled, resulting in a fabric held
together by this interlocking structure.
 Hydroentanglement: This technique uses water jets to entangle and lock fibers together. Fine water jets are
directed through the web, supported by a conveyor belt. The water jets force the fibers to interlock as they
are deflected and entangled, creating a strong and flexible fabric without the need for additional adhesives
or thermal processes.

The hydrogen bonding technique physically entangles the fibers, creating fabric through mechanical interlocking
Stitch Bonding
This method involves using knitting techniques to stabilize the fibers in the web, with or without additional yarns.
It is especially useful for applications like home furnishings and geotextiles, where speed and cost-efficiency are
priorities. Stitch-bonded fabrics often replace traditional woven textiles because they are quicker to produce.
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The non woven fabric may undergo additional treatments depending on the desired properties. This could include:
 Calendering: The fabric is passed through a series of heated rollers to smooth and compress it.
 Embossing: Raised patterns or textures can be created on the fabric surface.
 Dyeing or Printing: Color or designs can be added to the fabric.
 Coating: Additional materials can be applied to the fabric to enhance its properties, such as water
resistance or flame retardancy.
 Slitting and Cutting: Finally, the non woven fabric is cut to the desired size and shape, ready for use in
various applications.
[Link] and Inspection
The finished non woven fabric is wound onto rolls and inspected for quality control to ensure the fabric meets the
required standards before being packaged and shipped for various applications. This quality inspection includes
checking for uniformity, strength, and other specified characteristics.
The intricate interplay of these steps allows for the production of non woven fabrics with diverse properties and
functionalities. From filtration and insulation to hygiene and medical applications, non woven fabrics continue to
revolutionize industries with their versatility and cost-effectiveness.
4. Types of Non Woven Fabric
Non woven fabrics are classified based on their manufacturing methods and properties. There are several different
types of non woven fabrics available, each with its own unique characteristics. Below are some of the most popular
non woven fabrics:
 Spunlace: Spunlace is a type of non woven fabric known for its softness, strength, and versatility. The term
“spunlace” refers to the method used to produce this fabric, which involves entangling fibers through high-
pressure water jets. Spunlace non-woven fabrics are often used in medical, personal care, home textile, and
industrial applications. They are considered eco-friendly due to their production process, which does not
require chemical binders. Spunlace fabrics are versatile and can be customized to meet various needs, such
as porosity and absorbency.
 Heat-bonded: Heat-bonded non-woven fabric is created by applying heat to melt thermoplastic fibers,
causing them to fuse together without the need for external adhesives. This process produces a fabric that is
strong, durable, and often used in applications such as hygiene products, filtration materials, and
insulation.
 Spunbond: Spunbond non woven fabric is produced by extruding thermoplastic polymers, such as
polypropylene, into continuous filaments that are then laid into a web and bonded together using heat or
pressure. This process results in a fabric that is lightweight, strong, and breathable, making it ideal for
applications like medical supplies, agricultural covers, and disposable hygiene products.
 Meltblown: Meltblown non-woven fabric is produced by extruding molten polymer through fine nozzles,
creating microfibers that are then collected into a web. This process results in a fabric with excellent
filtration properties, making it essential for products like face masks, air filters, and liquid filtration
systems. The fine fiber structure of meltblown fabric also provides softness and a high surface area, making
it suitable for use in hygiene and medical applications.
  SMS (Spunbond-Meltblown-Spunbond): SMS nonwoven fabric is a three-layer composite material
consisting of spunbond layers on either side of a meltblown layer. This structure combines the strength and
durability of spunbond with the fine filtration properties of meltblown, making it ideal for medical and
hygiene products like surgical masks, gowns, and protective clothing. SMS fabrics are also known for their
high efficiency in capturing particles and resistance to fluids, making them a popular choice in various
industries.
5. Key Properties and Benefits of Non Woven Fabric
5.1. Main characteristics of non woven fabric
Non woven fabrics are characterized by several key properties that make them unique and versatile for various
applications. One of the primary properties is their strength and durability. Despite being lightweight, NWF can be
engineered to possess significant tensile strength, allowing it to perform well in both disposable and long-lasting
applications.

Property Description

Non woven fabrics can quickly absorb and hold liquids, making them ideal for medical,
Absorbency health, and hygiene products.

Impermeability Acts as a barrier against liquids and bacteria, often used in surgical masks and protective gear.

Elasticity and Offers flexibility and comfort, making it suitable for wearable applications, while remaining
Softness soft to the touch.

Tear and Fire Non woven fabrics are durable, resisting tears and fires, which enhances their safety and
Resistance longevity in various applications.

Porosity and High porosity allows air to pass through while filtering out dust, contributing to breathability
Breathability and filtration efficiency.

Lightweight and Lightweight and easy to fold, non woven fabrics are convenient for various uses, including
Flexible sterilizable applications in medical settings.

No Raveling or Edges do not fray, extending the life of the product and ensuring ease of use in manufacturing
Fraying and daily wear.

Made from materials like polypropylene, non-woven fabrics are water-repellent and non-
Water Repellency absorbent, making them ideal for outdoor and medical uses.

Excellent air permeability keeps the fabric dry and clean, which is essential for comfort and
Air Permeability hygiene in wearable products.

Non-toxic and Non- Safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products, these fabrics are stable, odorless, and
irritant non-irritating due to their FDA-approved raw materials.

5.2. Benefits of non woven fabric

 Cost-Effective: Non-woven fabrics are less expensive to produce compared to woven or knitted fabrics,
making them a budget-friendly option for a wide range of applications. Their efficient production process
involves fewer steps and less labor.
 Versatility: These fabrics can be manufactured in various weights, thicknesses, and compositions, allowing
them to be tailored to meet specific needs.
  Durability and Strength: Despite being lightweight, non-woven fabrics are engineered to be strong and
durable. They can withstand heavy wear and tear, making them ideal for products like reusable shopping
bags, industrial wipes, and protective clothing.
 Health and Safety: Non-woven fabrics can be engineered to provide specific protection levels against
hazards like bacteria, viruses, and chemicals. This makes them suitable for medical and protective
equipment, such as surgical masks, gowns, and filters, where safety and hygiene are paramount.
 Softness and Comfort: The fine fibers used in non-woven fabrics contribute to their softness, making
them comfortable for direct contact with the skin. This quality is especially valuable in fashion, skincare
products, and personal hygiene items like wet wipes and facial masks.
 Water Resistance: Non-woven fabrics can be treated to become water-resistant, which is particularly
beneficial for outdoor products, medical supplies, and hygiene products. Their ability to repel water while
maintaining breathability adds to their functional versatility.
 Eco-Friendly and Sustainability: Many non-woven fabrics are made from recycled materials and are
often biodegradable. This environmental friendliness appeals to consumers and businesses aiming to
reduce their ecological footprint.
6. Applications of Non-Woven Fabric in PP Bags and Packaging
Non-woven fabrics play a crucial role in the production of polypropylene (PP) bags and packaging, offering a range
of benefits that make them an ideal choice for various applications. These fabrics are known for their lightweight,
durable, and eco-friendly properties, making them a popular option for businesses looking to create sustainable
packaging solutions.
Retail Packaging
For durable retail packaging, non-woven PP fabrics are a common choice. These fabrics are strong, lightweight,
and can withstand repeated use, making them ideal for reusable shopping bags and contributing to plastic waste
reduction.
Supermarkets, Stores, Cafes, and Restaurants
Non-woven PP bags are commonly used in supermarkets, stores, cafes, and restaurants due to their durability and
cost-effectiveness. These sectors rely on non-woven bags for packaging goods, takeaway food, and beverages, as
they are sturdy, reusable, and can be customized with branding to enhance customer engagement.
Medical Packaging
Integrate non-woven PP fabrics into medical packaging solutions, such as sterilization wraps and disposable
surgical drapes. Leverage their high barrier properties to guard against contamination while ensuring effective
sterilization through their breathable design.
Intelligent Packaging
Nonwoven fabrics offer a versatile solution for intelligent packaging. They can be used to create temperature
indicators, gas indicators, moisture indicators, tamper-evident seals, and RFID/NFC tags. These applications
provide valuable information about product freshness, safety, and authenticity. Additionally, nonwoven fabrics can
be customized with various designs and colors to enhance brand recognition and product appeal.
Sterilization Wrap
Sterilization wraps made from nonwoven fabrics offer a reliable barrier against contamination, ensuring the sterility
of medical devices and equipment. Their breathable nature allows for efficient sterilization processes, while their
durability and lightweight properties make them easy to handle and transport. Nonwoven fabrics can also be
customized with indicators or labels to track sterilization status and provide additional product information.
Industrial Packaging
Non-woven fabric is widely used in industrial packaging for protective solutions like pallet covers and bulk bags.
For example, non-woven polypropylene is often employed in making durable, moisture-resistant pallet covers that
shield goods during storage and transportation, ensuring product integrity and reducing damage from
environmental factors.

Industry Specific Applications

Medical & Healthcare Surgical gowns, masks (N95/Surgical), bandages, drapes, and sterile packaging.

Hygiene Disposable diapers, sanitary napkins, adult incontinence products, and wet wipes.

Automotive Headliners, trunk liners, seat covers, sound insulation, and cabin air filters.

Agriculture Crop covers to protect against frost/pests, seed blankets, and weed control
fabrics.

Construction & House wraps, roofing underlays, and soil stabilization for erosion control in civil
Geotextiles engineering.

Household & Packaging Tea and coffee bags, reusable shopping bags, upholstery backings, and vacuum
bags.

CLASSIFICATION OF WOVEN FABRIC - KHADI, HANDLOOM, AND POWER LOOM FABRICS.

Classification of woven fabric - Khadi, handloom, and power loom fabrics.
Khadi, handloom, and power loom fabrics are classified primarily by their production methods, specifically the
source of power (manual vs. electrical) and the method used to spin the yarn (hand-spun vs. mill-spun).
Classification:

Feature Khadi Fabric Handloom Fabric Power Loom Fabric

Yarn Type Hand-spun (on Can use either hand-spun or mill- Mill-spun (machine-
a charkha or spinning spun yarn made) yarn
wheel)

Weaving Hand-woven (on a Hand-woven (on a manually Machine-woven (on an

Method manually operated operated loom) electrically powered
loom) loom)

Production Labor-intensive, low Medium volume, involves skilled Mass-produced, high

Scale volume, artisanal artisans volume, industrial

Texture & Feel Often coarse, with Unique texture with slight Uniform, consistent,
 natural irregularities and variations/irregularities; often and smooth
slubs; feels soft with softer and more breathable than appearance; can feel
washing power loom stiffer due to precise,
mechanical process

Sustainability Highly eco-friendly, Eco-friendly (uses less energy Industrial process,

minimal energy than power loom), supports higher energy
consumption, supports traditional crafts consumption, mass-
rural livelihoods produced

Authenticity KVIC (Khadi and Handloom Mark or India No specific artisanal

Mark Village Industries Handloom Brand (IHB) certification; mass-
Commission) certification market product
logo/certification

Key Distinctions
 Khadi is unique because both the yarn production (spinning) and the weaving process are done entirely by
hand, without electricity.
 Handloom refers to any fabric woven on a manually operated loom but can utilize either hand-spun or
industrially (mill) spun yarn.
 Power loom fabrics are produced entirely by machines powered by electricity, from spinning the yarn to
weaving the fabric. This results in high consistency and uniformity, ideal for mass production.