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Types of Knitting Machines Explained

There are four main types of knitting machines: fully fashioned machines, flat knitting machines, circular knitting machines, and warp knitting machines. Fully fashioned machines produce plain knit panels using bearded needles in a straight bar. Flat knitting machines use two opposing needle beds that can transfer stitches and shape panels. Circular knitting machines produce tubular fabrics using single or double cylinders of needles. Knitting machine types are differentiated by their needle gauge and intended yarn weight.

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100% found this document useful (2 votes)
580 views5 pages

Types of Knitting Machines Explained

There are four main types of knitting machines: fully fashioned machines, flat knitting machines, circular knitting machines, and warp knitting machines. Fully fashioned machines produce plain knit panels using bearded needles in a straight bar. Flat knitting machines use two opposing needle beds that can transfer stitches and shape panels. Circular knitting machines produce tubular fabrics using single or double cylinders of needles. Knitting machine types are differentiated by their needle gauge and intended yarn weight.

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kemma2007
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© Attribution Non-Commercial (BY-NC)
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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Download as DOCX, PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
  • Knitting Machine Types
  • Circular Knitting Machines
  • Double Jersey Machines
  • What is Knitting?
  • Types of Knitting Machines

Knitting machine types

The knitting industry as a whole can be divided into four manufacturing sectors, these are:
Fully Fashioned, flat knitting, circular knitting and warp knitting. Within the wool industry
both fully-fashioned and flat knitting is widely used. Circular knitting is limited to certain
markets and warp knitting is seldom used.

Fully Fashioned Machines

Traditionally these machines produce plain “classical” styled wool knitwear by producing
panels that are shaped to style “Fashioned” during knitting. After knitting the front, back and
sleeve panels are linked to form the garment.

Fully Fashioned machines are sometimes referred to as straight-bar, flat bar, “Cottons Patent”
or “Cotton machines” due to patents that were given to William Cotton way back in the mid
1800’s.

Bearded needles are used which are set into a


straight-bar in a long row and the entire bar is
reciprocated by rotary cams which causes the
knitting action. The knitting yarn is laid across
the width of the needles which is simultaneously
followed by the sinkers/dividers, which push the
yarn firmly against the stem of the needles
ready for loop formation.

Generally Fully Fashioned machines only have


one set of needles and therefore can only
produce plain knit fabric, making it necessary to
produce the welts/cuffs on special ribbing
knitting machines. The ribs are held on
“running-on” bars and are either transferred on
to the Fully Fashioned machine by hand or
automatically depending on the age of the
machine.

The patterning capability of Fully Fashioned machines is limited to plain knit fully fashioned
panels. Machines with stitch transfer and intarsia capabilities can create the well known
“argyle” styles.

The gentle knitting action of these machines allows the use of delicate fine count woollen
spun yarns and also enables the machines to run faster where possible giving good knitting
efficiency.

The gauges of Fully Fashioned machines range from a relatively course 9gg (needles per 1.5
inch) through to a super-fine 33gg.

Flat Knitting Machines


Sometimes referred to as “Flatbeds” or “V-beds” due to the nature and arrangements of the
knitting beds where two opposing needle beds are positioned so that the upper ends form an
inverted “V”. Needles slide up and down the beds in slots known as “tricks” and in this case
the gauge refers to the number of needles per 1 inch.

The carriage or “cam box” traverses across the needle beds and selects needles to be knitted
as it reciprocates side to side. The carriage effectively raises and lowers the needles on both
beds simultaneously as it passes over them, depending on the desired pattern. Needle bed
lengths can vary from 1.0m to 2.2m width and each is designed for a specific task or purpose.

What makes these machines so versatile, apart from the virtually unlimited patterning
capacity, is that the stitches can be passed from one bed to the other and the beds can be
moved linearly in relation to each other. This not only allows panels to be shaped, but it also
opens up extensive patterning possibilities using stitch transfer, like those used in “Aran”
style sweaters. Furthermore parts of the garment that are normally added during make-up
such as pockets, collars, trims, V-necks, etc, can now all be knit as an integral part of the
panel.

Advanced technology has now made it possible for complete garments to be knitted on the
machine, without the need for any making-up. The technique of complete garment knitting is
done in one of two ways; either using an adapted version of a V-bed, or by using a special
machine that has four needle beds.

Circular Knitting Machines

There are many types of circular knitting machines which produce long lengths of tubular
fabric and quite often they are manufactured with very specific end uses in mind.

Single Jersey Machines

Single Jersey machines are equipped with a


single “cylinder”, about 30 inch diameter, of
needles that produce plain fabrics (single
thickness).

Wool production on single jersey machines


tends to be limited to 20 gauge or coarser, as
these gauges can use two-fold wool yarns which
will give spirality-free fabrics. An additional
inherent feature of wool single jersey fabrics is
that the fabric edges tend to curl inwards. This
is not a problem whilst the fabric is in tubular
form but once cut open can become so if the
fabric is not finished correctly.

Other single jersey based machines include:

Terry loop machines; the basis for fleece fabrics which are produced by knitting two yarns
into the same stitch, one ground yarn and one loop yarn. These protruding loops are then
brushed or raised during finishing creating a fleece fabric.
Sliver knitting machines are single jersey machines that have been adapted to trap a sliver of
staple wool fibre in to the knit structure.

Double Jersey Machines

Double jersey machines are single jersey


machines with a “dial” which houses an extra set of needles positioned horizontally adjacent
to the vertical cylinder needles. This extra set of needles allows the production of fabrics that
are twice as thick as single jersey fabrics.

Typical examples include interlock based structures for underwear/base layer garments and 1
x 1 rib fabrics for leggings and outerwear products. Much finer yarns can be used as singles
yarns do not present a problem for double jersey knitted fabrics as the “double layer”
construction works to cancel out the residual torque between the face and reverse sides, the
net effect being no spirality.

What Is Knitting:

Knitting is the process of manufacturing fabric by transforming continuous strands of yarn


into a series of interlocking loops, each row of such loops hanging from the one immediately
preceding it. The basic element of knit fabric structure is the loop intermeshed with the loop
adjacent to it on both sides and above and below it.

Classification of Knitting:

1. Warp Knitting.
2. Weft Knitting.

1. Warp Knitting: In a warp knitted structure, each loop in the horizontal direction is made
from a different thread and the number of threads are used to produce such a fabric is at least
equal to the no of loops in a horizontal row.
2. Weft Knitting: In a weft knitted structure, a horizontal row f loop can be made using one
thread and the threads run in the horizontal direction.
Types of Knitting Machines
Knitting machines use latch hooks set into the machine to produce knit stitches. The placement
of these hooks and the size cannot be changed. Knitting machines are primarily differentiated by
yarn weights, with some machines able to handle heavier yarns than others. Knitting machines
allow you to quickly and efficiently produce a variety of knitted fabrics. Choosing the right
machine can be a challenge, and you should make the decision based on your own knitting
preferences and what you hope to produce.

Standard Bed Models

1. A standard bed model knitting machine, or a 4.5 millimeter knitting machine, can knit
lace weight and fingering weight yarns. It may also be able to handle light sport or DK
weight yarns. These can be electronic or mechanical and may have setting programmed
into the machine to produce lace, fair isle and other knitting patterns. This size of knitting
machine is ideal if you wish to make fine sweaters, knitted suits, twin sets or knitted lace.

Bulky 9 Millimeter Knitting Machines

2. Bulky weight knitting machines can knit yarns ranging from a sport or DK weight to
chunky. The hooks are set every 9 millimeter on this machine, allowing a stitch spacing
suitable for heavier yarns and sweater styles. Both computerized and punch card
machines are available. You may find used Brother Machines or currently manufactured
Silver Reed knitting machines.

Mid Gauge 6.5 Millimeter Machines

3. If you are looking for a machine that provides versatility and will most closely
replicate hand knitting, a mid gauge knitting machine is ideal. The hooks are large
enough to easily manage worsted weight yarns and some chunkier yarns as well. Yarns
as fine as a baby or fingering weight can be knitted with a mid gauge machine, but the
gauge will be quite loose.

Brother Knitting Machines

4. For many years, Brother produced several models of knitting machines, including
both computerized and punch card options. Brother no longer manufactures knitting
machines; however, you may still be able to find Brother knitting machines second hand.
The Brother KH970 4.5 millimeter knitting machine was the most popular on the market
in the United States for many years, featuring more than 600 built-in lace, fair isle and
weaving patterns.

Silver Reed Brand

5. Silver Reed offers 4.5 millimeter, 6.5 millimeter, 9 millimeter and 3.7 millimeter
knitting machines. Computer interfaced and punch card driven machines are available.
Be sure that computer driven machines are compatible with your computer, especially if
buying a used knitting machine. Silver Reed produces both metal and plastic knitting
machines in a variety of price ranges and the only bulky knitting machine available for
home machine knitters.
Artisan Knitting

6. Artisan offers both standard bed and mid gauge knitting machines for the home
market. The Artisan GE63-70 mid gauge machine handles sport through heavy worsted
weight yarns. It was first designed for commercial use, but is an excellent choice for the
home machine knitter. This machine is an especially good choice for ribbing, fisherman's
rib and similar patterns, and it includes its own stand.

Common questions

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The main types of knitting machines in the wool industry are Fully Fashioned, flat knitting, circular knitting, and warp knitting machines. Fully Fashioned machines produce classical styled knitwear by forming shaped panels which are then linked together. They have limited patterning capability but allow for the use of delicate yarns and efficiency in knitting . Flat knitting machines feature two opposing needle beds in a V formation and offer extensive patterning possibilities, including stitch transfer for creating texture and features like pockets as part of the knit panel . Circular knitting machines create tubular fabric in single or double jersey forms, with the single machines producing fabrics with inherent curling edges and double jerseys having thicker, spirality-free structures . Warp knitting, although less common in the wool industry, involves using a different thread for each loop across the width, suitable for non-elastic fabrics .

Fully Fashioned machines have limited patterning capabilities, primarily creating plain knit panels with occasional stitch transfers for styles like argyle . They can handle delicate fine-count woolen yarns due to their gentle knitting action, but are restricted mainly to plain knitting without integrated ribbing . In contrast, flat knitting machines offer extensive patterning capabilities, including advanced stitch transfer that allows for intricate textures and features directly knitted into the panel. They accommodate a wider variety of yarn types and weights, handling complex garments and intricate patterns such as Aran knits .

Gauge specifications define the spacing and number of needles on a knitting machine, directly influencing the fabric's texture, density, and suitable yarn types. For instance, Fully Fashioned machines have gauges ranging from 9gg to 33gg, accommodating fine yarns for delicate fabrics . Flat knitting machine gauges affect patterning capabilities and panel flexibility . Meanwhile, circular knitting machines have gauge limitations based on their structural needs, influencing the fabric weight and end-use applications . Accurate gauge selection is crucial for achieving desired knitwear characteristics.

Flat knitting machines enhance garment production versatility by allowing individual panels to be shaped through stitch transfers across two needle beds that can be moved relative to each other. This capability facilitates complex patterns like Aran styles, and enables knitting of parts normally added separately, such as collars and pockets, directly into the panel . In contrast, circular machines produce continuous tubular fabrics primarily in single or double jersey forms without the inherent capability for detailed shape and feature integration . Flat knitting thus provides more design flexibility and potential for innovation in garment construction.

A primary challenge of using circular knitting machines for single jersey wool fabrics is the tendency for fabric edges to curl inward due to their single thickness. This curling can be problematic once the fabric is cut open and requires proper finishing to mitigate . Additionally, the limited gauge range to coarser settings due to yarn thickness constraints poses limitations on fabric characteristics and applicability .

Advancements in knitting machinery, such as increased patterning capabilities and the ability to knit complete garments without assembly, greatly expand the options for garment designers. Features like integrated knit pockets, collars, and seaming options allow for innovative garment structures and multifaceted designs . V-bed machines and advanced double jersey configurations enable complex textures and multi-yarn patterns directly incorporated into designs without sewing, catering to dynamic fashion trends and individual customization demands . This technological flexibility enables designers to push creative boundaries, enhance garment function, and delve into personalized fashion solutions.

Technological advancements in flat knitting machines have enabled the production of entire garments without separate sewing processes, using either adapted V-bed machines or machines with four needle beds for complex patterns and structures . This capability enhances efficiency, reduces labor costs, and allows for on-demand customized production, significantly impacting the knitting industry by enabling faster turnaround times and increased flexibility in responding to fashion trends .

The presence of two sets of needles in double jersey circular knitting machines allows the production of thicker fabrics compared to single jersey machines. Double jersey machines can create interlock structures that mitigate fabric spirality and allow single yarns to be used without torsion issues . These fabrics are more stable, have better elasticity, and are typically used for items such as leggings and outerwear, contrasting the simpler single thickness and curling edges of those made on single jersey machines .

Computerized knitting machines offer significant advantages over traditional mechanical models, including enhanced precision in pattern execution, the ability to quickly switch between complex designs, and the automation of intricate stitch patterns such as lace or fair isle . These machines can store a wide array of patterns and facilitate faster adjustments, thus increasing efficiency and reducing manual errors. They also allow for digital interfaces to add further customization and pattern programming, enabling dynamic interaction with design software . These features empower manufacturers to produce high-quality, varied knitwear efficiently across different market demands.

A designer might choose a mid-gauge knitting machine for a balance between versatility and fabric quality. Mid-gauge machines can handle a broad range of yarn sizes from lightweight to some bulkier styles, creating fabrics that closely mimic hand-knitted textures . They offer flexibility in producing various projects such as sport wear and intricate rib patterns while facilitating smoother handling of worsted weight yarns crucial for specific design specifications or aesthetic requirements . This makes them ideal for designers seeking to replicate the hand-knitting aesthetic with efficient production processes.

Knitting machine types
The knitting industry as a whole can be divided into four manufacturing sectors, these are: 
Fully Fas
Sometimes referred to as “Flatbeds” or “V-beds” due to the nature and arrangements of the 
knitting beds where two opposing n
Sliver knitting machines are single jersey machines that have been adapted to trap a sliver of 
staple wool fibre in to the k
Types of Knitting Machines
Knitting machines use latch hooks set into the machine to produce knit stitches. The placement 
of
Artisan Knitting
6.
Artisan offers both standard bed and mid gauge knitting machines for the home 
market. The Artisan GE63-7

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