EN475 – OCEAN ENGINEERING MECHANICS – Equation Sheet 1: Linear Wave Properties

Shallow Water Intermediate Depth Deep Water

Surface Elev., η H H H
η= cos ( k x - σ t ) η= cos ( k x - σ t ) η= cos ( k x - σ t )
2 2 2
g T2
L= tanh (k d) g T2
Wave Length, L L=T gd 2π L0 =
L = L0 tanh (k d) 2π

Wave Speed or g gT g gT
C= gd C= tanh kd = tanh kd C0 = =
Celerity, C=L/T k 2π k0 2π

Potential, φ Hg H g cosh k (z + d ) H g kz
φ= sin(k x - σ t ) φ= sin(k x - σ t ) φ= e sin (k x - σ t )
2σ 2σ cosh kd 2σ
H gk H g k cosh k (z + d )
u= cos(k x - σ t ) u= cos(k x - σ t )
2σ 2σ cosh kd H g k kz
u= e cos(k x - σ t )
Horizontal (x-dir=n) H g π H cosh k (z + d ) 2σ
u= cos(k x - σ t ) u= cos(k x - σ t )
velocity, u 2 d T sinh kd π H kz
u= e cos(k x - σ t )
πH 1 πH T
u= cos(k x - σ t ) u= K x cos(k x - σ t )
T kd T
H g k sinh k (z + d )
w= sin(k x - σ t )
Hg (z +d )
sin(k x - σ t ) 2σ cosh kd H g k kz
w= w= e sin(k x - σ t )
Vertical (z-dir=n) 2σ d π H sinh k (z + d ) 2σ
w= sin(k x - σ t )
velocity, w πH  z T sinh kd π H kz
w=  1 +  sin(k x - σ t ) w= e sin(k x - σ t )
T  d πH T
w= K z sin(k x - σ t )
T
Horizontal Particle Hg 2π 2 H H g k kz
ax = sin( k x - σ t ) ax = K x sin(kx - σt) ax = e sin(k x - σ t )
Acceleration, ax 2d T
2
2
Vertical Particle Hg (z +d ) 2π 2 H H g k kz
az = - cos(k x - σ t ) az = - K z cos(kx - σt) az = - e cos(k x - σ t )
Acceleration, az 2d T
2
2
Particle Paths tend to lines elliptical circular
 Shallow Water Intermediate Depth Deep Water
ptotal = - ρ g z +
H H cosh k (z + d )
ptotal = - ρ g z + ρ g cos(k x - σ t ) ρg cos(k x - σ t ) H kz
Pressure, 2 2 cosh kd ptotal = - ρ g z + ρ g e cos(k x -
2
ptotal = pstatic + ptotal = ρ g ( η - z) H
pdynamic ptotal = - ρ g z + ρ g K p cos(k x - σ t )
2 ptotal = ρ g ( ekz η - z)

ptotal = ρ g ( K p η - z)
Energy in One ρ g H2L ρ g H2L ρ g H2L
Wave Length, E E= E= E=
8 8 8
Average Energy ρ g H2 ρ g H2 ρ g H2
E= E= E=
Density, E 8 8 8
EC 2k d
nE P= ( 1+ ) EC
Power, P = P = E C = E Cg 2 sinh 2 k d P= = E Cg
T 2
P = n E C = E Cg
C 2k d
Cg = ( 1+ ) C
Group Velocity, Cg Cg = C 2 sinh 2 k d Cg =
= n C 2
Cg
Dispersion
σ =k g d σ = g k tanh k d σ =gk
2 2 2 2
Equation
cos α 0 C 
sin α 0  = sin -1 ( tanh kd sin α 0 )
C g0
Shoaling & Refraction: H = H0 KS KR KS = KR= α = sin-1 
Cg cos α  C0 
H H
Standing Waves: surface elevations: ηi = cos (kx - σt) ηr =cos (kx + σt) η = η i + η r = H i cos (kx) cos ( σt)
2 2
cosh k(z + d)
dynamic pressure: pd = p d i + pd r = ρg H i cos (kx) cos ( σt)
cosh kd
2π H i cosh k(z + d) 2π H i sinh k(z + d)
velocities: u = ui + u r = sin (kx) sin ( σt) w = wi + wr = cos (kx) sin ( σt)
T sinh kd T sinh kd

2π 2π cosh k (z + d ) cosh k (z + d ) sinh k (z + d ) 1  2kd 

H = wave height σ= k= T = wave period L = wave length d = water depth Kp= Kx= Kz= n= 1 + sinh 2kd 
T L cosh kd sinh kd sinh kd 2