WatchWorld

high-end brands, models, technology and design

An uplifting new tourbillon from Herms New models from Hublot, Longines, Chopard, Arnold & Son
and many more Whats the most popular young watch brand? A book about a Breitling: chapter 1
Volume 9 issue 30, 2014 6,99
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The new Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph 42mm
is our future icon
APs Octavio Garcia
page 31
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9 771567 671002
00/24 HORLOGES 2
RUBRIEK
0024 4
CONTENT
MOMENT IN TIME
10 1/1,000th of a second makes the difference between gold or silver

SMALL SECONDS
12 Novak Djokovic with Seiko on centre court, four times the Chinese Year
of the Horse, two typical British watches plus more news, facts & gures
and key players from the world of haute horlogerie
ARTISTS IMPRESSION
16 The time in black and white, thanks to the Domino Clock
WHATS GOING ON(LINE)
18 0024 on the world wide web: what can you expect from us?
RETROSPECTIVE
20 With Shakespeares Full fathom ve thy father lies in mind Blancpain
dove to the depths of the sea
0024 MARKET SCAN
22 The resurrection of the haute horlogerie after the turbulent eighties
analysed with gures
SIHH 2014
25 The house of cards built by the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
was sturdy and solidly: all 16 brands of the Richemont Group surprised the
audience with exciting trump cards and haute horlogerie novelties
54 One of the highlights of the SIHH: planetary poetry above Paris and the
Dutch village Nijehaske, with Van Cleef & Arpels
PHOTOSHOOT
58 Time goes round: 11 watches with a round case

INTERVIEW
66 Since the launch of the Arceau Lift, Herms writes Haute Horlogerie with
a capital H, according to Luc Perramond
ESSAY
70 First chapter of the book Once Upon a Timepiece, a novel made of
12 short stories starring a Breitling Chronomat from 1946
PRE-BASELWORLD 2014
74 A whirlwind of new models is on its way, so to be save weve already
picked 21 interesting BaselWorld novelties
COLUMN
80 Simon says: follow us online!
82 Karel Hubert wants to ask you one tiny favour: give a watch to your
beloved ones
SERVICE
35 Contact/subscription
WATCHWORLD
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TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SERIES CONTINUES TO PUSH THE
BOUNDARIES OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SAVOIR-FAIRE. THIS
CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON, WITH DUAL TIME FUNCTION,
FEATURES WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL, CROWN, PUSHER AND
BRI DGE. NI NE TI MES HARDER THAN STEEL, CERAMI C I S
EXCEPTIONALLY DIFFICULT TO WORK, YET HERE IT IS FINELY
BRUSHED AND POLISHED AS IF IT WERE PRECIOUS METAL.
THE COMPLEX FORM OF THE CASE IS MILLED FROM A SOLID
BLOCK OF TITANIUM. THE INDIVIDUAL FACETS ARE THEN
MICRO SAND BLASTED TO ACHIEVE THE DISTINCTIVE MATT
GRAINING. AUDACIOUS STYLING, PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.
ROYAL OAK
CONCEPT GMT
TOURBI LLON
I N TI TANI UM,
WHI TE CERAMI C BEZEL.
AUDEMARS PIGUET UK LTD
TEL: + 44 207 409 0782
[Link]
TO BREAK THE RULES,
YOU MUST FIRST MASTER
THEM.
THE ROYAL OAK CONCEPT SERIES CONTINUES TO PUSH THE
BOUNDARIES OF AUDEMARS PIGUET SAVOIR-FAIRE. THIS
CONCEPT GMT TOURBILLON, WITH DUAL TIME FUNCTION,
FEATURES WHITE CERAMIC BEZEL, CROWN, PUSHER AND
BRI DGE. NI NE TI MES HARDER THAN STEEL, CERAMI C I S
EXCEPTIONALLY DIFFICULT TO WORK, YET HERE IT IS FINELY
BRUSHED AND POLISHED AS IF IT WERE PRECIOUS METAL.
THE COMPLEX FORM OF THE CASE IS MILLED FROM A SOLID
BLOCK OF TITANIUM. THE INDIVIDUAL FACETS ARE THEN
MICRO SAND BLASTED TO ACHIEVE THE DISTINCTIVE MATT
GRAINING. AUDACIOUS STYLING, PEERLESS CRAFTSMANSHIP.
ROYAL OAK
CONCEPT GMT
TOURBI LLON
I N TI TANI UM,
WHI TE CERAMI C BEZEL.
AUDEMARS PIGUET UK LTD
TEL: + 44 207 409 0782
[Link]
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0024 WATCHWORLD 6
FOREWORD
M
ore than 20 years ago I entered the parallel world
of the mechanical watch via a kind of inter-
dimensional portal in Antwerp, and underwent
a transformation. From the moment I entered
that Flemish jewellery store, I wanted to feel, understand, possess,
experience, talk about watches: I was never the same again. In
fact it is the friend who enticed me to board the train to Antwerp
who is responsible for the change in me. He knew why he was
going there: to score a mechanical watch in the sales. On the way
to Antwerp I read through a German watch annual, which my
friend already knew by heart, from Audemars Piguet to Zenith. His
passionate comments, page after page, became an emotion that
settled somewhere between head and heart. I was being prepped
for my initiation a little later that
same day.
On the way back I did little else but
stare at my left wrist, which was
now graced by a Baume & Mercier
Formula S. Is it pathetic to say that
this chronograph nally made me
feel complete? Probably, but it is
the truth. The watch told so many
stories: of the illustrious history of
the house of Baume & Mercier, of
attention for every single detail, of miniaturised technology of the
highest level, of adventurous motor sport the word Formula
was written large on the bezel. I sensed all those stories and the
fact that I could understand them gave me a feeling of self-
assurance. It gave me a sensation of sophisticated depth. Later
that evening I entered the dark dorm room of my then girlfriend
surrounded by an aura of superiority, of someone who had been
admitted to an elite club of acionados.
So, did you get a new watch? Expensive?. She was already half
asleep in the pitch dark but still she noticed my radiant new aura
immediately, that much was clear. In my surprise I must have
mumbled something, put the watch on the bedside table and went
to sleep next to her. But I knew that when I woke up my world
would have changed for ever. The very next morning my daily,
unchanging ritual of looking at the watch by my bedside before
strapping it onto my wrist started...
Never the
same again
WatchWorld 0
0
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International editor-in-chief
Lex Stolk
International editorial supervisor
Harry H.R. Wijnschenk
Senior editor UK
Simon Cudd
Contributing editors
Ellen Dobbelaar
Kristian Haagen
Karel Hubert
Britta Rossander
Bloggers
Simon Cudd
Ellen Dobbelaar
Kristian Haagen
Karel Hubert
Lex Stolk
Translations
Harald European Translation Partners
[Link]
Art direction and graphic design
Nextdoor Design, Almere (The Netherlands)
Michel Pleiter
Production management
Sandy Hoogendijk
Digital media
Marco Postma
Marketing
Sandy Hoogendijk
Public Relations
Annet C. Hoveling
Founding editor & founding publisher
Karel Hubert & Harry H.R. Wijnschenk
ISSN: 1567-6714
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Cover
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 42mm
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10506-1301-1001
LMH_HQ Visual: Dressage Chrono Magazine: 0024_Watchworld (UK) Language: English
Doc size: 240 x 330 mm Calitho #: 02-14-94989 AOS #: HER_01118 YT 11.2.2014
la montre herms tames time, mastering its measurement.
one press on the pushbutton and the chronographs second hand starts moving,
the counter hands hot on its heels. beneath the dial ticks the steady beat of the manufacture
h1925 mechanical movement, embodiment of the houses high standards.
precision and elegance meet and merge, reminding us that each second is truly unique.
dressage
herms. time reinvented.
[Link]
LMH_HQ Visual: Dressage Chrono Magazine: 0024_Watchworld (UK) Language: English
Doc size: 240 x 330 mm Calitho #: 02-14-94989 AOS #: HER_01118 YT 11.2.2014
la montre herms tames time, mastering its measurement.
one press on the pushbutton and the chronographs second hand starts moving,
the counter hands hot on its heels. beneath the dial ticks the steady beat of the manufacture
h1925 mechanical movement, embodiment of the houses high standards.
precision and elegance meet and merge, reminding us that each second is truly unique.
dressage
herms. time reinvented.
[Link]
MOMENT IN TIME By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Sochi 2014 Winter Games
0024 WATCHWORLD 10
ACCURATE TO ONE THOUSANDTH
OF A SECOND
It isnt the person who puts down the fastest time; the
person who is rst to nish is the winner in short track
speed skating. The sport got a lot of attention during the
Olympic Winter Games in Sochi, because the ice skaters
ew across the short oval track at speeds of 55 km/h
and pulled out all the stops to overtake their opponents.
Slaloms, cutting the inside corner, going around the
outside, and often touching the ice with their hands in
the corners. It was up to Omega, the ofcial timekeeper
during the Winter Olympics, to not only measure accu-
rately who was rst to nish, but also clock the starting
times, for example during the ice skating. A huge job,
but Omega was well prepared. An amazing 230 tonnes
of materials were needed to make sure everything ran
smoothly: starting gates, the photoelectric cell, ankle
bands, miles of cable, scoreboards etc. Important,
because a difference of just 0.003 seconds decides
whether you win gold or silver, as Dutch ice skater
Koen Verweij found out. And for Slovenian Tina Maze
and Swiss Dominique Gisin the high-tech time recording
methods conrmed that for the rst time in the history
of the Winter Games they had both won gold in alpine
skiing. Both nished in the exact same time of 1:42.57.
0024 WATCHWORLD 11
SMALL SECONDS By Ellen Dobbelaar
The Internet is the perfect tool for measuring the mood
among watch lovers. We do this in conjunction with the
Dutch/German company Chronolytics, which analyses
the data of the worlds biggest online provider of (second-
hand) watches, [Link]. Looking back at
2013 we see that, as in 2012, Rolex remains the most
popular watch brand among Europeans and Americans.
And whether that is because of the 50th birthday of the
Daytona or because of the virtually unassailable, mythical
image of the brand We think it might be the latter.
[Link]
1
SEIKO on centre court
NOSTALGIA
Longines concluded the year 2013 in style with the Heritage
1973, an amazing chronograph which, with respect to its look
and feel, is based on its retro-elegant predecessor. A 40mm,
cushion-shaped steel case with a silvered or black dial,
nine unusually shaped hour indicators, a tachymeter scale,
chronograph functions and a date indicator. Apparently
Longines was feeling nostalgic last year, because the
companys rich watch history had already been a source of
inspiration for the Longines designers twice before: in the
case of the Heritage 1968, a chic and avant-garde design
thanks to its square case and Roman numerals, and the
Heritage Military 1938, a simple but tasteful design based
on a pilots watch from the 1930s that has been restyled into
three contemporary versions: with date indicator, 24-hour
indicator and chronograph function. [Link]
Heritage Military
1938
Heritage 1968
Heritage 1973
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
0024 WATCHWORLD 12
ROLEX:
the undisputed
number
Those who watched the Australian Open carefully may have noticed something
about top tennis player Novak Djokovic: there is no longer an Audemars Piguet on his
wrist but a Seiko. For the next three years the Japanese watch brand will be Djokovics
new Watch Partner, as it is ofcially called. Seiko has selected a number of models
for Djokovic: a Sportura for training, a Premier Kinetic Perpetual for ofcial occasions
and a Divers for when he isnt on the tennis court. Also: an Astron GPS Solar, the
perfect tool for a world traveller like Djokovic, which was personally presented to him
in Melbourne by Shinji Hattori, Seikos Watch Corporation President. What else the
next three years with Seiko will bring is not clear at this point, but during the quarter-
nals of the Australian open Djokovic had to concede his position: ironically enough
his Swiss opponent Stanislas Wawrinka, from Lausanne, who was the overall winner
at the nal game, was too strong for him. [Link]
THE C3H5N3O9 ZR012 explained
Be warned: the ZR012 is an explosive experiment. C3H5N3O9 is the molecular formula for nitro-glycerine, a highly ammable substance but also the
brand name of a unique watch laboratory that is managed by Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei (Urwerk), Maximilian Bsser and Serge Kriknoff
(MB&F) and Eric Giroud (independent watch designer). These geniuses wanted to experiment with technologies, materials and designs without any
obligations to a specic brand, and consequently formed a platform in which their combined characteristics created a true horological chain reaction.
In 2012 they introduced the ZR012, a limited edition of 12 zirconium watches based on a number of mathematical principles. The wankel motor, named
after its constructor Felix Wankel, which functions like a triangular rotor, the Reuleaux polygon, which serves as the hour and minute hand and the
epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve used to shape the indicators. Twelve new copies of this scientic marvel are now available, this time nished
with a black PVD zirconium case. This watch can be yours for around 130,000 Swiss francs and it is only available through a unique outlet in Singapore,
The Hour Glass, although online orders are also accepted. [Link]
The watch features a manual movement that can be operated via the
(large) screwed-in crown characteristic of MB&F.
The scale for the hours and minutes is found on the bottom half of two
ellipses. This scale was created by 180 points, each of which forms part of
an epitrochoid, a mathematical planar curve. In other words: the points
that are indicated by the corners of the polygon as soon as the polygon
revolves around its axis.
The hands consist of Reuleaux polygons, triangles with rounded sides.
In this example it is 8.28 AM.
The case (55 x 44mm) is made of zirconium, derived from the mineral
zircon. It is comparable to titanium the material the lugs are made of
and it is extremely corrosion-resistant.
The sealed case-back reveals only the power reserve: 39 hours to be exact.
For many years the Olympic Games have been
dominated by timekeeper Omega. And in keeping
with such a grand event, Omega has issued a
limited edition of 100 watches as a tribute to the
host country Russia. The Sochi Petrograd between
1914 and 1924 the former capital of Russia was
called Petrograd is based on a historical piece
from Omegas museum collection. Omega opted
for the colours of the Russian ag (white, blue and
red) which have been incorporated in the dial of
the yellow gold, tonneau-shaped case. The case-
back is graced by the Sochi 2014 logo. But German
company Grieb & Benzinger is also seizing this
opportunity with both hands to keep its hordes
of faithful Russian fans happy. The brand does
this with the Saint George, the patron depicted on
Russias Coat of Arms. This patron saint has been
skeletonised and engraved on the case-back:
For the RUSSIA LOVERS
only seven copies of this watch will be made and all of them
are probably sold to Russian customers.
[Link], [Link]
0024 WATCHWORLD 13
that pay tribute to the Chinese Year of the Horse.
WATCHES elevated
to works of ART
Sarah Illenberger is a renowned artist and illustrator from Berlin. German
brand Nomos has engaged her for a unique collaboration: thanks to Sarah
the Bauhaus-inspired watches have been transformed into totally diffe-
rent but everyday objects. With just a few simple things like stones, paper
and even autumn leaves or biscuits, the Club, Orion and Tangente become
witty objets dart, because Sarahs creations consists of a light-hearted mix
of photography, art and graphic design and with a few simple but care-
fully thought-out modications an image is created that says much more
than a thousand words. [Link]
More examples of Sarahs creations using the Nomos watches may be found
on [Link].
CARTIER
MUST-HAVES
Early this year Cartier not only introduced a number of impres-
sive watches more about those elsewhere in this magazine
but also a number of beautiful accessories, each of which was
totally Cartier. Like this watch and jewellery box, made of g
wood and featuring a kaleidoscopic pattern. There are separate
compartments for rings, earrings, cufinks, bracelets and
necklaces, and there is room for at least six watches.
[Link]
WATCHES
Jaquet Droz
Petite Heure Minute Relief
Horse
Chopard
L.U.C XP Urushi
Would you like to own a special Year of the Horse watch for just 50?
On [Link] international editor-in-chief Lex Stolk tells you which watch it is.
Ulysse Nardin
Classico Horse
4
Arnold & Son
HM Horses
0024 WATCHWORLD 14
SMALL SECONDS
that pay tribute to the Chinese Year of the Horse.
The AFFORDABLE
automatic watch
Restraint, elegant and affordable: that describes
this re-interpretation of Les Classiques Auto-
matic in a nutshell. Sandro Reginelli, Product
Director at Maurice Lacroix, took the Les Clas-
siques and made changes to the bezel, among
other things, creating a slimmer version with a
beautifully nished dial and a domed, polished
surface. The dial has been given new hour indi-
cators, the date window has moved to 3 oclock
and the watch is now available in several
colours and with Roman or Arabic numerals.
A neat 38mm steel case surrounds the ML115
calibre with its 38-hour power reserve for the
hours, minutes, seconds and date. At approxi-
mately 825 this is a worthy watch that looks
good on any wrist. [Link]
To celebrate the 225th birthday of Backes & Strauss,
the London-based and by Franck Muller Group owned
watch and jewellery brand, created a masterpiece with
225 natural diamonds (66 different colour hues), one to
mark every year since Backes & Strauss was founded. A
white gold watch, with sword-shaped hands, a quartz
movement, but with at least 10 different diamond cuts,
that cost 1,975 hours of master craftsmen work and
25 months to design and craft the watch. And as the
name suggests, its of course a ladys cocktail watch.
[Link]
TB Victory
Arnold & Son pays a tribute to Britains
National Museum of the Royal Navy, that is
comprised by ve museums. One of those
museums is HMS Victory, one of Britains
most famous warships, which had her nest
hour as Lord Nelsons agship at the Battle of
Trafalgar in 1805. The cream dial of the watch, thats tted in a 44mm rose gold case,
unveils a beautiful solid gold miniature of the HMS Victory. A case-back see-through
shows you the National Museum logo executed in metallic palladium and the A&S
26103 calibre, an automatic movement thats entirely developed, designed and manu-
factured at Arnold & Sons workshop in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Only one piece will be
made and it will be presented to the National Museum of the Royal Navy.
[Link]
Spectacular
new venue for
LONGINES' GTC
Longines is the undisputable partner when it
comes to equestrian. The Saint-Imier based brand
is the Ofcial Timing Partner of the Global Cham-
pions Tour, the worlds leading show jumping
series, that will take place in 14 different cities, like
Antwerp, Shanghai, Lausanne and London. This
year the GTC will take place from 14 till 16th of
August in London and the organisation announced
a spectacular new venue at historic Horse Guards
Parade this summer. The site has been used for
parades, pageants and ceremonies since the 17th
century and is world famous for the Trooping The
Colour on the Queens Birthday Parade. During
those days its possible to see the best riders com-
peting for the highest price money in the sport and
of course Longines will be there to measure all the
times and to hand over some beautiful watches
to the winners. To give you an example: last year
British Olympic team gold medallists Nick Skelton
and Ben Maher battled for the Grand Prix honours
in one of the most exciting jump-offs.
[Link],
[Link]
0024 WATCHWORLD 15
Piccadilly Princess
ROYAL COLOURS
Especially
FOR U(K)
Both born in the 18th cen-
tury, both with an English
background: Backes & Strauss
and Arnold & Son. Both brands
announced that they will pro-
duce a limited edition watch that
pays tribute to its British heri-
tage, each with its own identity.
ARTISTS IMPRESSION By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Carbon Design Group
The domino effect
These simple dominoes hide an interesting story,
literally and guratively. The Seattle-based desig-
ners of the Carbon Design Group have given the
three dominoes articulating dots that ip back
and forth between black and white to show the
time. Being wireless, the clock can be mounted
on the wall or positioned on the oor. The minds
behind the domino clock have taken a familiar,
iconic object out of its usual environment and
given it an entirely new function, so the domi-
noes get a totally different meaning. The num-
bers on the dominoes and dice are recognisable
to everyone, so it was immediately clear to us
that this object would be an ideal starting point
for a clock, Joe Sullivan, industrial designer,
explains. Most people own a set of dominoes,
but because they are not used to seeing them
that big, and mounted on the wall, it becomes a
pleasant surprise. Of course the dominoes have
to look like the real thing, but if you enlarge those
small ceramic blocks to a huge size they become
almost impossible to lift. Whats more, the white
and black dots ip back and forth soundlessly,
simultaneously and slowly, and the mechanism
also has to be energy-efcient for a long battery
life. A small, electromagnetic coil tted behind
each dot is the solution. The magnet and the iron
revolve around the coil and because the mecha-
nism is attached to the dots the colour automa-
tically changes from white to black and back.
That way the hours and minutes pass slowly and
unnoticeably and you will experience time in a
more relaxed manner at least that is what the
designers hope.
[Link]
0024 WATCHWORLD 16
The domino effect
0024 WATCHWORLD 18
WHATS GOING ON(LINE)
W E B S I T E
T WI T T E R I N S T A G R A M
F A C E B O O K
00
24
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RETROSPECTIVE By Ellen Dobbelaar, picture Blancpain
0024 WatchWorld looks back in time, when innovative watches
were born that would prove to have a major impact on the
development of the watch industry. We follow the trail of these
icons, by reminiscing with the use of old advertising campaigns. In
this third edition we would like to take you back to 1960, the year
in which the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms crosses the Atlantic Ocean
and the American Marines can dive fty fathoms deep as well.
T
he story of the Fifty Fathoms starts
in 1953 and in two locations. In
France, where the lead roles are
played by Captain Robert Bob
Maloubier and Claude Riffaud, two French
Marines, and in the neighbouring Switzerland,
where Blancpain CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter is
an avid diver in his spare time. What the
Marines and the CEO have in common without
being aware of it is their quest for the perfect
divers watch. Maloubier and Riffaud have been
testing existing divers watches, but the results
prove to be disappointing: too small, unreada-
ble, and a lot of leaks. The two French Marines
approach the watch industry but are told that
their plans are unlikely to have a future. Only
Blancpain responds positively, as Fiechter has a
list of technical requirements: water resistance,
accuracy and readability are the spear points.
In concrete terms this means that a revolving
BLANCPAIN
Fifty Fathoms
Back in time
1960
bezel, screwed-in case-back, a double, sealed
crown, white indicators against a black back-
ground, an automatic movement and a soft-iron
inner case are absolute essentials. It is Fiechter
who comes up with the name Fifty Fathoms,
after hearing Ariels Song from Shakespeares
The Tempest. Full fathoms ve thy father lies;
Of his bones are coral made. He puts the Fifty
in front, because ve fathoms doesnt really
have much to do with deep sea diving. Fifty
fathoms equal 91.45m, the maximum diving
depth in those days, when fathoms were used
to measure the depth of the water. A fathom
stands for 6 feet, or 1.829m: the width of the two
outstretched arms of a grown man. A length of
rope with a piece of lead attached is lowered
into the water to determine the depth, and the
section of rope that disappeared underwater is
measured between the outstretched arms, indi-
cating the number of fathoms. The collaboration
proves to be a huge success: the Navy embraces
the Fifty Fathoms, underwater photographers
take it down into the depths (thanks to Jacques-
Yves Cousteau) and other diving watch acio-
nados are also impatiently treading water. The
watch pictured in the advertisement is the Fifty
Fathoms Mil-Spec Navy, a 41mm divers watch
that was developed especially for the US Navy.
0024 WATCHWORLD 20
0024 WATCHWORLD 21
0024 MARKET SCAN By Lex Stolk
What is the most popular young brand?
Those who have
youth on their side
Azimuth
Bedat & Co
Bell & Ross
Chronoswiss
Clerc
Concord
Cvstos
De Bethune
deLaCour
DeWitt
F.P. Journe
Franc Vila
Franck Muller
Frdrique Constant
Graham
Greubel Forsey
Harry Winston
Hautlence
HD3 Slyde
Hublot
Hysek
Ikepod
Linde Werdelin
Maurice de Mauriac
MB&F
Michel Jordi
Parmigiani Fleurier
Rama Swiss Watch
Rebellion
Richard Mille
Roger Dubuis
Romain Jerome
Sarpaneva
Urwerk
Valbray
Zeitwinkel
THE COMPLETE LIST WITH YOUNG BRANDS
0024 WATCHWORLD 22
10
TOP
twelve percent and the number three, Bell &
Ross (established in 1992) only gets a meagre
seven percent of all searches. It must be said of
the Master of Complications that, despite its
decreasing prominence among the bundled
marketing power of groups like LVMH, Riche-
mont and the Swatch Group, the ridiculously
creative Crazy Hours and of course the volup-
tuous tonneau shape of the Conquistador are
so recognisable that the watch acionados
remain loyal to the brand.
For every brand in the top 3 it can be said that
a modern icon from the collection guarantees
the place of honour. Whereas Hublot has
an absolute winner with the Big Bang and
Franck Muller very appropriately gets the
silver medal for the Conquistador, Bell & Ross
largely owes the bronze medal to its square
BR 01 and to an intensive online campaign
that reached and inspired a lot of aciona-
dos. Watches that have a strong identity can
withstand the vagaries of fashion, although it
must be said that with respect to its appea-
rance and image these days there are more
limited models in the collection than regular
models the Hublot Big Bang is a kind of
chameleon that sets the trend and continues
to change.
Winners and losers
Also remarkable is the fourth place of
Chronoswiss (1983) that very recently changed
owners, which may be an explanation for its
high ranking. Maybe collectors are now loo-
king for models from the period when founder
Gerd-Rdiger Lang was still in charge. Richard
Mille (2001) ranks highly, despite the high
prices paid for the RM, and jeweller Harry
Winston (we start counting Harry Winston as
a watch house when the brand introduced the
Opus series in 2000) is a remarkable presence
in 9th place. This position indicates that Opus
1 through 13 resonates strongly among acio-
nados and collectors; so strongly, in fact, that
watch master F.P. Journe is trumped (by two-
tenth of a percent). We expected Parmigiani
(1996) and Romain Jerome (2004) to rank
higher than 13th and 14th place respectively,
S
omeone who starts with a blank
piece of paper has a lot more free-
dom than someone who simply
has to colour in an existing picture.
People who have the courage to draw their
own lines and refuse to be limited by others,
and who dont appreciate being told off for
colouring outside the lines. Look at men
like Richard Mille, Roger Dubuis and Michel
Parmigiani, and the even younger generation,
responsible for the creations of Urwerk and
MB&F. But what is the web-surng watch
lover looking for? What is the most popular
watch brand after 1980? Thanks to Chrono-
lytics we can see which of the 36 young
brands selected by us are the most sought
after. Thanks to [Link] a website
that permanently offers nearly 120,000
watches for sale and has at least 50 million
visitors looking for all types and brands of
watches we saw our suppositions conrmed
and got some remarkable surprises, as well.
Thanks to its high-tech data analysis Chrono-
lytics enables us to compile rankings for dif-
ferent watch markets. Over a 3-month period
2.5 million unique visitors are tracked to find
out which watches for sale on [Link]
are viewed in the Dutch, Belgian and UK
markets and the four Scandinavian countries
Denmark, Norway, Sweden and Finland.
Among other things, Chronolytics bases its
analysis on the IP address and, at the request
of 0024 WatchWorld, the search this time
was for the most popular watches of brands
established after 1980, in the combined mar-
kets listed above.
Top 3
The fact that Hublot (established in 1980)
made the top of the list doesnt come as any
kind of surprise. In a relatively short space of
time watch guru Biver was able to explode
the brand into a serious player in the luxury
sports segment. What is surprising is the fact
that of the 36 selected brands, Hublot takes
an amazing 40 percent of the pie. Even more
so because Franck Muller (established in 1991
as Franck Mller) has to make do with just
The history of haute horlogerie often reads like a history book, but
the enormous growth in the watch market has also resulted in a
number of new watch houses of more recent vintage: pure post-
Quartz-Crisis brands that were born in the world of emotion and are
therefore unburdened by rigid and limiting traditions. What is the
most popular young watch house?
but we are happy to see couple Stas in a very
deserving fth place with their independent
brand Frdrique Constant.
As you can see, the German brands are not
mentioned on the list. You will nd the ranking
of these brands in the upcoming issue of
0024 WatchWorld.
1. HUBLOT
40%
2. FRANCK MULLER
12%
3. BELL & ROSS
7%
4. CHRONOSWISS
6%
5. FRDRIQUE CONSTANT 5%
6. RICHARD MILLE
4.4%
7. GRAHAM
4.2%
8. ROGER DUBUIS
2.9%
9. HARRY WINSTON
1.5%
10. F.P. JOURNE
1.3%
0024 WATCHWORLD 23
Franck Muller
Crazy Hours
Bell & Ross BR 01 Heading Indicator
FI ND OUT MORE AT
WWW. AWC. CH AND ORDER
YOUR FAVORI TE WATCH
DI RECTLY FROM THE
MANUFACTURER!
PRODUCT OF ALEXANDER PHILLIP WATCH COMPANY SWITZERLAND
T H E W A T C H N O
J E W E L E R C A N S E L L
P60-61 [Link] 63 17-02-14 11:35
A
A
A
A
0024 WATCHWORLD 25
The cards
are on the table
A
SIHH 2014
0024 WATCHWORLD 26
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A
A
the almost casual perpetual calendar and
power reserve indicators at the bottom of
the dial still stand out. It seems strange
that the element that gives the watch its
name is hidden on the back. The Terraluna owes
its name to a patented system that shows the
relative position of the sun, moon and earth,
including the rotation of our planet on its own
axis. The complete indicator uses three discs:
for the earth, the stars and the moon. The earth
disc shows the northern hemisphere and revol-
ves once every 24 hours. The star disc revolves
around the earth once every month and the
moon disc, which shows two clear moons, revol-
ves in the opposite direction, enabling an extre-
mely accurate indication. Far too beautiful to
hide away at the back of the watch, I hear you
say? Maybe so, but equally it shows that the
German watch house moves through the watch
universe like an autonomous planet and
that commands admiration and respect.
A. Lange
& Shne
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1 0
Richard Lange Perpetual
Calendar Terraluna
This years complicated high point from
Glashtte is called Terraluna and we will
reveal its complexity and functionality step by step.
It all starts with the separate indicators for hours
and minutes (regulator). Then there is the large
date indicator, a perpetual calendar, and the moon
phase indicator that is mounted directly on top of
the L096.1 calibre is visible on the back. Incidental-
ly, the movement has an amazing power reserve of
14 days and uses a constant force escapement that
releases the enormous energy generated by two
springs in doses of ten seconds each. This is done
to keep the torque constant which, in turn, gua-
rantees the extended and accurate progress of the
movement. The 45.5mm white or rose gold case con-
tains an amazing number of technical and aesthe-
tic masterpieces. For example, the incre-
dibly precise regulator layout is based on
a creation from 1807 by the then famous
clockmaker Johann Heinrich Seyffert from
Dresden. Despite their restrained style
3
3
SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk
0024 WATCHWORLD 27
1815 Tourbillon
This 39.5mm 1815 Tourbillon is a true beauty,
but that was not the rst priority of the German
watchmakers. The sizeable 13.2mm tourbillon
that dominates the view in a grand manner does
not revolve for aesthetic reasons but with the
objective of realising the most accurate possible
movement. Function over form, therefore. This is
also evident from the presence of both the Stop-
Seconds and Zero-Reset mechanisms. When the
crown is pulled out it activates a spring that stops
the balance and propels the seconds hand back to
zero so the time can be adjusted easily
and accurately down to the last second.
This is made possible by its calibre
L102.1. Available in rose gold as well as
a limited edition of 100 platinum pieces.
8
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Grand Lange 1 Moon Phase
Everything about the Grand Lange 1
Moon Phase is big; the 41mm case, the
date and especially the moon phase
indicator. This latest scion in the iconic Lange 1
family (the revival and steady advance of the
brand from the isolated hinterland of Saxony)
not only stands out for the size of the moon,
but especially for the excellent readability
and the minute attention to detail. The golden
moon glows gently and 382 (!) stars in different
sizes have been etched into a midnight blue
universe with laser accuracy. Only once every
122 years is there a minor discrepancy compared
to the real moon in the sky. The position of the
moon phase on the dial, showing the minutes
and hours, differs from the traditional place on
the small seconds dial, and that gives the watch
an even more individualistic look than it
had before. The sublime manually wound
calibre L095.3, which is built in Glashtte,
drives the time, date and moon.
9
9
Lange 1 Tourbillon
Perpetual Calendar
Nothing more than a new colour, but too
beautiful not to show you: the rose gold
version of the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpe-
tual Calendar. Introduced two years ago as a limi-
ted edition of 100 and now also on the market
in an unlimited 41.9mm rose gold case. As far as
the technology goes (invisible tourbillon,
ultra-fast jumping perpetual calendar
mechanism), nothing has changed.
The watch masters in the hills of
Saxony didnt think any chan-
ges were needed and they
were absolutely right.
9
Langes manufacture
calibre L082.1
Langes manufacture
calibre L102.1
A. Lange & Shne also unveiled a new Saxonia. On
[Link] you can read everything
about this stylish watch for women.
0024 WATCHWORLD 28
SIHH 2014
B
a
u
m
e &

Clifton 1892 Flying Tourbillon
The king of the Clifton collection is the Flying
Tourbillon. Until last January the rose gold model
1830 a particularly well-nished classical watch
with a hand-wound movement was the high
point in the collection and now there is this supe-
rior tourbillon. Like the
1830, the tourbillon has a
case with just a touch more
detail, which is also made of
rose gold. The Flying Tour-
billon has been given a spa-
cious, 45.5mm case, needed
to accommodate the size-
able calibre P591. The hand-
wound movement is built
in Richemonts ValFleurier
production facility. The
mechanism has a 50-hour
power reserve and because the tourbillon
has one bridge at the bottom the view of
the whirligig is unobstructed. Those who
feel they have seen the movement and the
layout of the dial before are right: take a look at
the IWC Portuguese Tourbillon Hand-Wound and
its calibre 98900 and the overwhelming simi-
larity is obvious. Lets just say its a family trait.
Incidentally, the name Clifton 1892 refers to the
year in which Baume & Mercier participated in
a chronometer competition organised by the
British Kew Observatory. The score of 91.1 out of
100 points proved to be a record that would not
be broken for another 10 years. Something to be
proud of, something to name a watch after.
Clifton Chronograph
No collection is complete without a chronograph and so there is also an automatic Clifton chrono in a 43mm case. A sober exterior reminiscent of circa 1950, but with modern proportions and styling
at the same time. You will have a sporty classic that comes with the famous, per-
haps somewhat underrated and always reliably functioning ETA 7750 Valjoux cali-
bre with automatic winding and day and date indicator. A strong and very comple-
te addition to the collection that leaves you wanting more. What will 2015 bring for
the Clifton? We are hoping for an affordable perpetual calendar. Any suggestions?
Mercier
8
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Clifton Retrograde
Date Automatic
Three small complications in a relatively
accessible watch with a modern-classical
look. With the arrival of the 43mm Clifton
Automatic with day and date indicator the Clif-
ton collection, which has grown steadily since its
introduction a year ago, now welcomes a highly
practical and user-friendly newcomer that will
please many. A retrograde hand at 3 oclock is res-
ponsible for correctly showing the date, a hand
revolves at 9 oclock to show the right days and
a power reserve indicator is found at 6 oclock.
This total of six hands is powered by the Soprod
9094 calibre which is based on an automatic
ETA 2892 movement and has a 42-hour power
reserve. Sapphire crystal on the front and back is
also worth mentioning.
3
00/24 HORLOGES 97 00/24 WATCHWORLD 97
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00/24 HORLOGES 97 00/24 WATCHWORLD 97
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Nellissen Juwelen Coster Diamonds
Ten Berge Juwelier Alexander Juwelier Atelier
Juwelier Kormelink Dik Juwelier Triade Juweliers
Juwelier Piet Schilder Juwelier Zwinkels
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CS Bedford Almar Watches
Interested to become a WatchBank partner?
Contact us at contact@[Link]
buy the best pre-owned watches
on [Link]
P76-98 keurmerk - [Link] 97 31-05-13 13:11
0024 WATCHWORLD 30
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SIHH 2014
A
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hree of a kind
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Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph
The 44mm Offshore stays, but with the
signicantly updated 42mm variant it
now has a small big brother that takes up
a prominent position. Unchanged is the
familiar Mega Tapisserie pattern on the dial,
new is the circular pattern on the subsidiary
dials, the more sophisticated hands, the
date disc that matches the dial colour
and the more subtly embossed
numerals. Two variants in gold and
four versions in steel announce the
42mm message loud and clear. And
the message will be received.
8
Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph
Vampire
Nicknames are part of the
Offshore. Now there is even a
special nickname for the basic black
version. Thanks to the red details on the
dial and the blood-red stitching on the
hornback alligator strap this version
was nicknamed Vampire. This sinister
chronograph houses the AP calibre 3126. So
still no integrated chronograph movement
from the companys own manufacture,
but a basic proprietary movement with a
Dubois Dpraz module.
7
7
Royal Oak Offshore
Chronograph Safari
The rst Safari dates back to 2007
and, together with the blue Navy, was
presented as a more contemporary and
daring variation on the Offshore theme.
The completely updated Offshore is once
again available in two versions. Like the
original, the Safari has a characteristic
hornback leather strap and with its
sand-coloured dial and brown details the
overall model is extremely tasteful and
restrained.
J
J
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1 0
Royal Oak Concept
GMT Tourbillon
This 2014 edition of the Royal
Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon
combines a 44mm titanium case
with a bezel, crown and push-button of
white ceramic and an integrated rubber
strap in (still) immaculate white. Pictures
dont do justice to this daring trump card
in the Royal Oak family. On paper the
white looks too hard and cold. The actual
watch has an inviting soft sheen and the
intricately machined and very difcult
to make ceramic upper bridge straddling
the calibre 2930 is an intriguing eye
catcher. Because of the shape, colour
and material of this bridge the
eye is automatically drawn to the
tourbillon and the second time
zone indicator.
0024 WATCHWORLD 31
EVOLUTION IN MINIATURE
6
O
ctavio Garcia: It was
high tim
e to take another
look at the original 42m
m

Royal O
ak O
ffshore.
K
K
2
8
9
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Subtle details
Going back to using Cermet a metal
alloy incorporating ceramic was
never a consideration, says Garcia. The
presence of nickel means that Cermet is literally and guratively speaking a sensitive subject. So: no Cermet, but not a new, integrated chronograph movement from the companys own manufacture either. We are working hard on a new chronograph calibre, but it simply isnt where we want it to be yet, explains Garcia. At this point I cannot condently say when the movement will be ready. No titanium either? Not yet, probably not until 2015, I think. Although we did give the new Offshore an open- worked case-back as a standard feature. There was a lot of demand for that. And can I point out the radically different dial? The numerals are smaller, the AP logo is embossed and instead of painted dials we now use galvanised dials, which does a lot more justice to the three-dimensional pattern.
7
7
W
ith the introduction of a
number of different versions of
the 44mm Royal Oak Offshore it appeared that the smaller 1993 original (why did the company never celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Offshore?)
had been written off. Nothing is further from the
truth. A closer inspection of the brand new 42mm
version makes it clear that subtle but important
changes have been made to the Offshore DNA,
particularly when it comes to the materials used
to make the watch.
Present and past
Ceramic has replaced the vulcanised rubber of
the chronograph push-buttons and the crown.
Strangely, the bezels of the new models have not
been made of ceramic or some other scratch-
resistant material, but of more vulnerable steel. Octavio Garcia, head designer at Audemars Piguet, explains why: The 44mm Offshore has become an established model and thats why it was high time to take another look at the original 42mm
R
oyal O
ak O
ffshore
C
hronograph N
avy
R
O
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A
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O
A
K

O
F
F
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version. The Offshore is an icon within
our collection and although the 44mm may
have been dominating the scene recently, we
never planned to phase out the 42mm size. Quite
the contrary: as soon as the 44mm variant had
been launched we started thinking hard about
its smaller brother. As far as the steel bezel is
concerned, we opted for the most historically
accurate variant. We felt that ceramic on versions
such as the renowned Safari and Navy would
simply be inappropriate. We didnt want to make
too many changes. The crown and push-buttons
are made of ceramic, but thats more of a logical
evolution. At Audemars Piguet we tend
to have a thing for steel, although I have
to say that for the gold version we were
tempted to use the much more scratch-
resistant ceramic for the bezel; however,
we were able to restrain ourselves.
Curious about the new Royal Oak Offshore for women?
Go to [Link].
0024 WATCHWORLD 32
Ballon Bleu de Cartier
oral-marquetry parrot
Colourful, exotic fauna has been a theme at
Cartier for many years and animals like the panther
and crocodile are important elements in the history
of the House. By using a number of traditional,
increasingly unused techniques and combining them
with exuberant themes, Cartier has managed to
conquer a special place in the market in recent years. At
every SIHH anticipation about the latest animal parade
is high. This year the parrot (although in fact the bird
portrayed on the watch is a blue and yellow macaw)
was the high point. The appealing creature is made of
inlaid ower petals that are treated and coloured with
the use of a special method. This is a never-seen-before
method that results in an effervescent and especially
lively colour spectacle.
10
9
42mm case which is extremely thin with a height of just 11mm, making it the thin- nest mechanical divers watch in the mar-
ket. It is guaranteed water resistant to 300m. The
bezel is a wonderful example of modern material
use and innovation. At the front the ADLC coa-
ting, which incorporates an amorphous carbon
that is as hard as diamond, delivers an intensely
black and virtually unscratchable unidirectional
turning diving bezel. The same ultra-smooth
ADLC coating on the back results in a smoothly
revolving diving bezel that requires no lubri-
cation; a technology that comes directly from
the experimental ID One, in which ADLC was
used for the rst time. Roman numerals and
luminescent material prove to be a perfect
combination in the Diver and because Cartier
will obviously always be Cartier, even if they are now making serious divers watches, the underwater calibre is also available in rose gold and steel with rose gold accents.
5
3
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SIHH 2014
C
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Calibre de Cartier Diver
Take a look at the rich history of the
House of Cartier and a colourful, creative
and extravagant universe opens up to
you, in which playful creations abound.
The recent watch creations of the House also
have a creative character and often an unex-
pected look. However, the concept behind all
the Cartier watches is deadly serious. The brand
wants to be taken seriously as a leading produ-
cer of high quality horlogerie and to achieve
this it comes up with striking concept watches
and dizzying complications, but also by rein-
forcing the achievable basis. Calibre 1904 MC
is an automatic movement with date display
from Cartiers own manufacture that appears
in an increasing number of models, including a
watch that is so serious it comes with the ISO
6425 certicate to show that we are dealing with
an ofcially approved divers watch. The
Calibre de Cartier Diver is a genuine diving
tool with the luxurious look of an original
Cartier. The Calibre de Cartier Diver has a
3
3
Rotonde de Cartier
Earth and Moon
The moon upon request. When the push-
button at 4 oclock is operated a blue disc
of lapis lazuli moves over the tourbillon to
accurately show the position of the moon. The tourbillon represents the moon and the deep-blue disc that moves to the right when the push-button is released, the rmament. The push-button at 2 oclock is used to adjust the second time zone with 24-hour display that oats around the main time display. The platinum case has a diameter of 47mm and a thickness of 16.65mm and that, together with the generous use of lapis lazuli on the dial and the large Roman numerals and a stylised globe, make this Rotonde a very striking creation. At the back of the watch it is easy to see how much work has gone into the movement, which was realised in conjunction with Renaud & Papi. The precisely skeletonised construction is meticulously designed and beautifully nished. This pice de resistance comes in a limited edition of 50.
9
10
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0024 WATCHWORLD 33
means of the winding crown, and moving
the calendar forwards or backwards is not
a problem. At the back of the watch we can
see whether we are living in a leap year or
a normal year. The mechanical miracle is
constructed and ne-tuned in Cartiers
latest haute horlogerie studio, above the
boutique at the Rue du Rhne in Geneva
and, partly because of this, the movement
has been awarded the prestigious
Geneva Seal. The Rotonde de
Cartier Astrocalendaire in a
platinum 45mm case is available
in a limited edition of 100.
Rotonde de Cartier
Astrocalendaire
In the Rotonde de Cartier Astrocalendaire
its all about revolutions. The spindle of
the hour and seconds hands balances
on the edge of a revolving precipice. In the
middle of this revolving circle spins a ying
tourbillon and around it, in turn, revolve the
day, month and date indicators. All this results
in a dynamic, revolving spectacle which,
according to Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the most
senior technical watch boss at Cartier, is easier
to read than a traditional calendar watch, and
is also easier and safer to operate thanks to a
system of cogwheels. Cam-and-lever systems
are vulnerable and that makes adjusting a
perpetual calendar a complicated matter. For
safety considerations the system is blocked
at certain times, and if the user pushes the
minuscule correctors hidden on
the edge of the case too hard he
has literally and guratively gone
too far. Thanks to the complicated
system of cogs in the calibre
9459 MC the calendar is operated by
5
5
LHeure Envote de Cartier
The LHeure Envote de Cartier collection
consists of three pairs of watches, with each
pair highlighting its own theme in shape and
colour. Each individual watch is a unique cre-
ation. In the creation we show here the deep green
of emeralds glows like a lush tropical pond that is
home to a crocodile of gold and diamonds with hyp-
notic green eyes. The crocodile can be removed and
worn separately as a brooch, which transforms the
watch into an idyllic garden.
5
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6
2
2
5
Ballon Bleu de Cartier
extra-at
Ultra-thin watches are becoming
increasingly prominent. Just check out
the brochures of Jaeger-LeCoultre, Piaget,
Vacheron Constantin, Zenith, Blancpain, Breguet etc.,
and you will see a rich procession of thin movements in
ditto cases. Obviously, Cartier had to follow this trend.
The new 40mm Ballon Bleu de Cartier extra-at is just
6.9mm thick and has an added aesthetic advantage.
The case shape of the Ballon Bleu appears to have been
invented to be ultra-thin, because the convex shape
exudes perfection and is reminiscent of famous past
creations for the vest pocket or wrist made by other
Watch Houses that had a similarly slim prole.
7
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0024 WATCHWORLD 34
9
This enables the date to jump ahead incredi-
bly quickly and a special brake system ensures
that the sizeable date discs stop at exactly the
right time. Although in the rst instance the
time appears to be of secondary importance
after the date, that same time can be conjured
up crystal clear when the minute repetition is activated.
In addition to the fact that having the hours, quarter-
hours and minutes sound as clearly and loudly as pos-
sible is a huge job, this second energy-draining com-
plication causes further headaches. Energy is scarce in
a miniscule movement and yet the watchmakers have
managed to make the hand-wound calibre PF359, which
has only one spring barrel, powerful enough. The low
frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour ensures dura-
bility thanks to a relatively modest spring usage. In
addition to their wonderful tone, the appearance of the
two blued gongs is also remarkable. They snake around
the movement in a rounded star pattern. Subtle design
details may be found everywhere and when you add
all those small elements together it amounts
to a long list. Strangely enough, all these
style details do not make the watch appear
busy or restless. Quite the contrary: the Toric
Rsonance 3 is the epitome of balance.
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SIHH 2014
Parmigiani Fleurier
Toric Rsonance 3
You want to know what the date is? If you
need to ask you are obviously not wearing a
Toric Rsonance 3, because with this watch
Parmigiani is taking the concept of large date
seriously. The date window is huge, as are the numerals
showing the date. Because indexes are used to show
the time, the Arabic numerals in the single date win-
dow stand out even more. And this single date window
is the next striking element of this 45mm white gold
watch which, at rst glance, appears so restrained. The
two large disks containing the numbers are positioned
on top of each other and are so delicate that it appears
as if there is just one single date disc in the large win-
dow; a much more sophisticated look than two sepa-
rate windows that jointly show one and the same date.
Incidentally, a system with two large date disks like
this uses a lot of energy and because, in addition, the
date jumps at midnight and does not revolve gradually,
this causes even more of a problem. To ensure
that everything still works smoothly and wit-
hout problems you really dont want two
numbers out of alignment in one single giant
window the movement accumulates energy
throughout the day and releases it all at once.
Tonda Mtrographe
New in the Tonda line are the Mtro
models: the Mtrographe for the men and
the Mtropolitaine for the women. As the
name suggests the Mtrographe is a
chronograph and the word metro in the name is
reected in what Parmigiani calls an urban
appearance. What that means exactly? Certainly
not a big case that would be noticeable in the busy
city, because this case measures a modest 40mm.
The black dial does have an urban look, however,
and looks remarkably minimalist because of the
two clear hour and minute counters in shiny
SuperLumoniva. The asymmetrical position also
gives the watch a fresh and no-nonsense feel. The
white version with silver subsidiary dials is rather
more traditional. Also note the beautifully shaped
lugs which make the 40mm watch look bigger
because of their size, and the subtle shape of the
push-buttons. It looks like the two Mtrographe
models, which use the PF315 chronograph
calibre built in-house at Parmigiani, are
designed for different cities. Black for New
York and white for Paris maybe?
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The women's model from the
Mtro collection, the Mtropolitaine,
can be admired on
[Link].
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0024 WATCHWORLD 35
0024 WATCHWORLD 36
Aquatimer Chronograph
Edition 50 Years Science
for Galapagos
Denitely a limited edition is the
version clad entirely in intensely black rub-
ber with striking blue details. The 44mm
Chronograph Edition 50 Years Science for
Galapagos is limited to 500 pieces and, like
the Charles Darwin, uses the manufacture
calibre 89365 with a 68-hour power reserve.
Of all the models the external/internal diving
ring with SafeDive system (turn the bezel to
the left and the internal dive time indicator
revolves simultaneously, turn to the right
and the indicator remains safely
in place) on this watch feels the
most pleasant of all nine Aqua-
timers, because this version comes
in beautifully tactile rubber.
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Aquatimer Perpetual
Calendar Digital
Date-Month
For dedicated IWC fans who are
not afraid of a piece of haute horlogerie
the fully redesigned Aquatimer
collection, consisting of nine watches in
total, offers a 49mm perpetual calendar
with digital date and month indicators.
This titanium watch, nished in rose
gold and clad in rubber, is the biggest
IWC wristwatch since the illustrious
B-Uhr or Big Pilot from 1940. We know
the automatic calendar movement
used for this watch from other product
families. This perpetual diver
comes in a limited edition of
50 pieces.
Aquatimer Chronograph
Edition Expedition
Charles Darwin
As if the striking manufacture
chronograph movement with the
intuitive monocounter wasnt
enough, this 44mm divers chrono-
graph also has a high-quality
bronze alloy case. This material
is alive without staining and it is
also a direct nautical reference to
Darwins ship the HMS Beagle. FYI:
this rst IWC watch in bronze is
not a limited edition.
Aquatimer
Deep Three
After the iconic Deep
One and the not-quite-as-
success ful Deep Two there is
now, entirely in line with expec-
tations, a Deep Three. And this
one denitely hits the mark. The
46mm watch is made of tita-
nium, sports the immaculately
functioning SafeDive mecha-
nism and features an appea-
ling mechanical depth gauge.
In its design the watch is also
reminiscent of the legendary
Ocean 2000.
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SIHH 2014
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0024 WATCHWORLD 37
K
K
Aquatimer Automatic 2000
The name Big Diver would be appro-
priate for this watch which, in terms of
appeal, rivals IWCs Big Pilot. It is a functio-
nal masterpiece with carefully considered
aesthetics. Water resistant to 2,000m, a
46mm titanium case, a robust 80110 cali-
bre from the companys own manufacture
in Schaffhausen and two different Super-
Luminova colours on the dials for optimal
readability without dangerous errors. Also
striking are the black crown pro-
tector and the beautiful dial.
TWO SYSTEMS
IN ONE
K
K
According to the head
of the design department,
Christian Knoop, IWC is
much more than just a watch
brand. Surprising. He
explains why and of course
we also talk about the
redesigned Aquatimers.
W
hile the main courses
are being served in the
restaurant, Christian
Knoop talks about his ve years at
IWC. The new Aquatimers are the
dessert. A headhunter approached
me about his job, but didnt tell me what
company it was. They were looking for a
creative person for a watch brand that had a
360-degree view of the brand as a whole and
was not just knowledgeable about watches.
When the mystery brand turned out to be IWC
I was extremely pleased. The broad approach I
would be able to adopt particularly appealed to
me. As a child I was always drawing, but I cant
remember ever sketching a watch... Needless
to say, my interest in watches has developed
enormously these past few years
and working with a team of 15 highly
talented designers has taught me a
lot. From the watch to the brochure
to the interior of the boutique, I enjoy
designing the entire package. Dont
get me wrong, I love designing a watch, but I
dont consider myself a watch designer.
Memories of 1967
And so we noiselessly and smoothly transition
to the underwater world of the Aquatimer:
I consider the 1982 Porsche Design Ocean 2000
an iconic watch. This rst titanium watch ever
made by IWC was designed by Ferdinand A.
Porsche, a man who designed many different
objects, a legend. The 2014 Aquatimers may
not look much like the illustrious
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Ocean 2000, but I denitely was
inspired by the pure design and
perfect aesthetics. Still, the bezel
in particular is reminiscent of the
rst Aquatimer from 1967. This
watch had the diving ring on the edge of the dial instead of the traditional ring on top of the case. The new Aquatimer actually has a dual system: by turning the outer bezel the diving ring inside the watch revolves. IWC called this mechanism the SafeDive system and combines the advantages of both systems. A ribbed bezel is easier to operate when wearing diving gloves than an extra crown, and a scale on the dial can be read more accurately than numbers on an external bezel. A linking mechanism installed on the outside of the case at
9 oclock connects the two rings. The
system works extremely smoothly
and accurately and because it is
open, water can automatically rinse
the mechanism clean.
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0024 WATCHWORLD 38
J
a
e
g
e
r
-
L
e
C
o
u
l
t
r
e
10
Hybris Mechanica 11
Dont let the name confuse you: the word hybris has
nothing to do with a combined mechanical/ electronic
movement. For the scholars among you the word may
sound somewhat familiar, because hybris (hubris) is
an ancient Greek word that denotes excessive pride,
conceit, foolhardiness or delusions of grandeur. Admit-
tedly, this 11th manifestation of supreme watch know-
ledge on the part of the Watch House is an attempt to
reach the summit, but the watchmakers from Le Sen-
tier were denitely not foolhardy, and did absolutely
not suffer delusions of grandeur, because
the Master Ultra Thin Minute Repeater
Flying Tourbillon, as this watch is also
called, is mostly ultra-thin and restrained.
The name Hybris is much more appropriate
7
SIHH 2014
onal and much talked about is the rotor
of the automatic movement. Opting for
a manually wound movement wasnt
challenging enough for the people in
Le Sentier and a traditional rotor would
obscure the view, so the watchmakers con-
structed a peripheral rotor that revolves
around the movement out of sight and
provides a 45-hour power reserve. Not enti-
rely invisible, because the platinum rotor
that quietly recharges the battery on cera-
mic ball bearings is visible through the
12 apertures on the outside of the dial. From
a technical perspective the system is very
elegant, but the extra openings in the dial
next to the cut-out for the tourbillon give
the cleanly coloured, silver dial a kind of
restlessness, especially when the rotor is
moving back and forth. It is understan-
dable that Jaeger wanted to
make the rotor visible, because
that way they can show that this thin watch is
most denitely an automatic and not a hand
winder and, whats more, the system is too
beautiful to keep it hidden away.
for the Gyrotourbillon 3, from the series with
a highly three-dimensional design. The
technicians at Jaeger-LeCoultre can deni-
tely be proud of their Hybris Mechanica 11
maybe even excessively proud.
Grandiose horlogerie is hidden in a modest
41mm white gold case with a height of just 7.9mm
and constructed of 471 components. The automa-
tic movement has a ying tourbillon and minute
repetition system. Although this doesnt sound very
innovative, the construction method most denite-
ly is. Take a look at the ying tourbillon at 6 oclock,
for example. It is extremely delicate and transpa-
rent and that is obviously because there is no bridge,
but also because a ying balance wheel is used, for
which a completely new balance spring was deve-
loped. Furthermore, fewer components result in a
thin tourbillon and that contributes to the fact that
the total calibre 362 is just 4.8mm thick.
To actually keep this thin movement thin,
the minute repetition had to be comple-
tely redesigned the perfect opportunity
to put the system under the microscope
and make changes and improvements
where needed. The speed at which the
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striking mechanism sounds the time is par-
ticularly remarkable. Lets say that it is 12:05.
In a regular system the hours sound 12 times,
the system pauses because the quarter-hour
does not have to be struck and then the ve
minutes are sounded. That could be improved
upon, they thought at Jaeger, and so a mechanism
was developed that knows that when the wearer acti-
vates the system at ve minutes past twelve no quarter-
hour has to be sounded and so there is a much shorter
pause between the hours and the minutes. This makes
the rhythm more owing and consistent. Incidentally,
the tone is extremely clear because the two gongs are
mounted against the sapphire crystal case-back and a
previously developed highly accurate hammer system
strikes the gongs very briey and then retracts, so the
sound isnt muted.
A new system for sounding the time was also deve-
loped. Instead of the traditional disc mechanism the
Hybris Mechanica 11 uses a recessed push-
button at 11 oclock. Interesting, but things may
be getting a little too elaborate. You can only
activate a recessed push-button if you can
make it emerge rst. That is done by operating
a small disc at 8 oclock. Equally unconventi-
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One last model: on
[Link]
you can admire the
Master Ultra Thin Grand Feu.
0024 WATCHWORLD 39
The magic of the logo
The crown of Riedos previous employer is a logo that
evokes a sense of pure luxury around the world, as
well as aspiration and wealth. A logo that has been
tattooed onto the bodies of diehard watch acionados
countless times. This is not what Riedo is aiming for,
but it does show where his faith in a dominant logo
comes from. The JLC target group is not the same as
that of Rolex, but at the same time this different target
group is sensitive to the emotions evoked by a watch.
According to Riedo the combination of logo and haute
horlogerie is the key to success: Sophisticated, creative
watch complications are our speciality. Look at the
slim Hybris Mechanica 11, for example, it is
full of innovative technology of the highest
level. Our creative skills are undisputed and
because we have all the knowledge and
abilities under one roof we are able to utilise
them even better in the future.
K
K
OUR LOGO IS
MORE IMPORTANT
THAN OUR NAME
Reverso Ultra Thin
1931 Chocolate
What a tasteful, maybe even a par-
ticularly tasty watch, this slim, rose
gold Reverso with a historically cor-
rect, deep-brown dial colour, slim
hands and a hand-wound move-
ment that is made in the companys
own manufacture in the village of
Le Sentier in the Jura Mountains.
The fact that a strap can make or
break a watch in this case make
is more than obvious when you
look at the beautifully supple lea-
ther strap made by Casa Fagliano
from Buenos Aires. Every self-res-
pecting polo player wears boots
made by this Argentinian house
and that completes the circle of
this rectangular watch
and polo icon.
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It is Daniel Riedos rst SIHH in his
capacity as CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre.
Two years after his appointment as
the brands Industrial Director he is
now the face of the watch house
from Le Sentier, which has just cele-
brated its 180th anniversary. Today
the successor of Jrme Lambert,
who was transferred to Montblanc,
talks about the logo, the
future and the feel of JLC.
B
efore Riedo moved to the remote Valle
de Joux he spent 12 years working for
Rolex. Why is this relevant? Because
it puts the future plans and ideas of the
youthful 50-something executive into the
proper perspective. To the question how he plans to
put the house from the watch valley in the spotlight
he replies: All around the world Jaeger-LeCoultre is
considered a specialist watch house that is among
the absolute top. Of course that is fantastic, but for
the future it is not enough. When I look at our current
collection it is clearly structured in individual lines,
but the identity of those different product groups
must be communicated better, as well as the fact
that we are a true manufacture. New product lines
are in the pipeline, but it will take a year or two
before we are ready to present them. What will also
be taking an increasingly important place in the
communications is our logo. Even more, in future we
will be communicating our logo (a stylised anchor
consisting of a letter J and a letter L) more
than our name. The image must engender
an emotion an emotion that says Jaeger-
LeCoultre represents the absolute top in
haute horlogerie.
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0024 WATCHWORLD 40
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reserve thanks to two spring barrels.
The 43.5mm white gold Quantime
Perptuel Equation is 16mm high and
in this modest space the movement,
consisting of 570 decorated components,
does its perpetual job. The starting point
was the development of an easy-to-
operate calendar movement that could
be moved forward as well as backward.
Clear readability was also high on the
list of priorities for both men, plus a new
way to show the equation of time, the
difference between the local mean time and the
solar time. Greubel Forsey opted for a system using
two transparent discs, which shows when the solar
time and the time we use on a daily basis overlap.
The result of years of thinking, building, testing
and starting all over again is a completely
new and fully integrated mechanism that
requires a lot of knowledge of movements
to fully understand it.
9
SIHH 2014
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Quantime Perptuel
Equation GF 07
Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have a
revolving obsession called a tourbillon and they
have shared their obsession with the public on
several occasions in many different but always
dazzling manifestations. And now they have
set their sights on the perpetual calendar
which comes with an ultra-accurate tourbillon,
obviously. The patented 24-second tourbillon,
positioned at a 25-degree angle, serves as the
regulating body for a movement
that ticks at 21,600 vibrations per
hour and has a 72-hour power
Greubel
Forsey
Automotive Flying
Tourbillon
American fashion king Ralph Lauren is a
passionate collector of classic cars and a
serious connoisseur of haute horlogerie.
The eet of the most successful polo salesman in the
world is impressive, and the same can be said of his
watch collection. What is impossible with classical
cars can be done when it comes to mechanical
watches: selling haute horlogerie under your own
name and then putting those creations under
the umbrella of the Richemont Group so you have
access to movements like those of Jaeger-LeCoultre,
for example. Surprisingly enough the calibre RL167
that is used in the Automotive Flying Tourbillon
is built by La Fabrique du Temps, a movement
company that is now part of the competing LVMH
conglomerate. A beautiful automatic movement,
incidentally, featuring a delicate micro-rotor.
The watch combines the passions of Ralph
Lauren in every detail. The complicated
tourbillon movement satises the watch
connoisseur in him and the appearance
of the watch reects his deep love for the
classical automobile. This is because the
black steel Automotive Flying Tourbillon
with a sizeable diameter of 45mm is
modelled after one of the most famous
cars in history, a jet-black 1938 Bugatti
57SC Atlantic Coup that occupies a prominent
spot in Ralph Laurens coach house. The elm
burlwood around the edge of the dial is also
used in the dashboard of this voluptuously
shaped top classic, of which four were only ever
built, and both the Arabic numerals and the
plain hands of the watch are modelled after
the Jaeger instruments in the Bugattis cockpit.
For $80,000 a pittance compared to the cars
estimated value of $40 million you can buy
this interpretation of Ralph Laurens passion,
which will look particularly good when you are
driving a restored cabriolet through a sleepy
Provenal town with your arm resting casually
on the drivers door. Please make sure to wear
a polo shirt featuring the logo of a polo
player rather than a crocodile... Ralph
will appreciate that.
Lauren
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a
lp
h
Being fairly unfamiliar with what Roger
Dubuis are about, not only did their stand at
SIHH fascinate me and make me smile with
its surreal theatrical play with watchmaking
and exploring their Hommage collection,
the Hommage Chronograph in 42mm pink
gold case, with a 52-hour power reserve and
housing the RD680 movement, got that
smarter side of me, perky.
This was my, your new 0024
WatchWorld Senior Editor UK,
rst SIHH, and I have to say that
it was a real pleasure for me to
attend. Everything I had heard
about the show, sure enough
was correct. My colleagues have
already voiced their opinions on
the watches that they liked the
most, so now it is time for you
to hear what I liked from the
brands that showcased at this
Richemont show.
Simons
Being a fan of the more sporty side as opposed
to the elegant side the new IWC Aquatimer
offerings really got me intrigued and
interested, especially with the introduction
of bronze Chronograph Edition Expedition
Charles Darwin, the colossal 49mm Perpetual
Calendar Digital Date-Month and vulcanized
rubber editions, but the one that stood out
for me was the simplicity of the Aquatimer
Automatic at a wearable 42mm, with silvery
dial and comfortable rubber strap.
Jaeger-LeCoultre for me have always been more
about their beautifully elegant watches around
the Reverso, Grand complications, Tourbillons
and history. However, its their more sporty side
that I have taken interest in from their Aston
Martin collaborations with the AMVOX to their
Navy Seals Compressors, so the Master Com-
pressor Chronograph Ceramic in black 46mm
ceramic case and chronograph function. The
monotone with just the red second hand really
stood out for me and won me over.
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Being a Panerai fan since I discovered the brand
in 1997, and an owner for a few years now, their
latest offerings were great, in terms of new
in-house movements and the introduction of
their Chronograph Radiomirs 1940 in various
45mm precious metal versions. But for me
it was the more simplistic 44mm Luminor
Marina 8 Days cases with the 8-day movements
that were more for me, especially the white dial
PAM00563, as most Paneristis will say these
are the true DNA, although the white dials
not so much, I do like to go against the grain
sometimes!
Audemars Piguet have always been
synonymous with their Royal Oak Offshore
range that has been around since the mid
90s, so it was great to see a few changes on
their new 2014 range, with the introduction of
ceramic pushers as opposed to the older rubber
ones, new inner bezels and upgraded versions
of the Navy and Safari, amongst other colours.
Interestingly enough the Navy grabbed my
attention in Geneva, but when revisiting them
recently in London, the Safari grabbed me by
the throat... The Millinery Minute Repeater and
Royal Oak Concept GMT Tourbillon in white
ceramic were also mind bending.
T
O
P
from SIHH
5
0024 WATCHWORLD 41
Simon Cudd is the new 0024 WatchWorld
Senior Editor UK: on page 80 he introduces
himself in his column 'Simon says'.
0024 WATCHWORLD 42
Collection Villeret 1885
Exo-Tourbillon Rattrapante
The word exo means on the outside and
this applies to two aspects of this complicated
pinnacle of the new SIHH 2014 collection. Firstly,
the sizeable tourbillon mechanism is positioned
next to and therefore outside the movement
and secondly the balance doesnt oscillate inside
but outside the tourbillon cage. Furthermore, the
tourbillon cage is smaller than the balance, which
is positioned above the tourbillon. This mechanism
was constructed to save energy and the
effort has been successful. Because the
balance doesnt have to support the weight
of the tourbillon cage the ExoTourbillon
needs 30% less energy than comparable
traditional movements with tourbillon.
The construction method with the two different-
sized movement components provides an optical
treat, as the revolving tourbillon is beautifully
visible in the heart of the oscillating balance.
The white gold 47mm watch provides even more
visual spectacle. The ExoTourbillon Rattrapante
is a regulator watch with a large central minute
hand, a minute indicator at 9 oclock and two hour
hands (the blued hand for the local time and the
grey hand for the second time zone) and a day/
night indicator at 4 oclock. The cherry on the top is
formed by the two central seconds hands
for the rattrapante function that move,
stop, jump and reunite like an haute
horlogerie ballet. Only 18 copies will be
made of this watch.
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SIHH 2014
Meisterstck Heritage
Perpetual Calendar
With the Meisterstck Montblanc not only
aims to show its heritage in the form of a clas-
sic watch collection, the Watch House which
originates from Hamburg also wants to demon-
strate and expand its Swiss watch side and access a
large target group. By opting for a series of recognisa-
ble watches that comfortably meet all the criteria of
a classic wristwatch and, at the same time, keeping
the prices in the entry-level category, Montblanc is
playing a trump card. An achievable high point in
the Meisterstck Heritage collection is undoubte-
dly this model with perpetual calendar. In steel this
watch costs 10,000 euro and a price of 16,500 euro
has been set for the rose gold version. Serious money,
obviously, but in the world of the perpetual calendar
this is extremely competitive, maybe even aggressive
pricing. For this serious amount you will get a dial
with a harmonious layout. This is what a perpetual
calendar looks like: no frills, no surprises,
M
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Meisterstck Heritage
Moonphase
You cant get more classic than with
a moon phase watch. It is a highly
traditional complication that has been
perfected many times and yet never
gets boring. The moon may no longer play a
prominent role in modern life, but the aesthetic
qualities of the moon are indisputable. The
moon phase indicator of the Meisterstck
Heritage Moonphase has been integrated in
the subsidiary date dial at 6 oclock. The moon
is displayed in a beautifully traditional manner
and so it should be in a watch that not only has
a classic name but, at 39mm, also has a very
conservative case size. The bezel is narrow and
polished, so the 39mm looks anything but small.
The automatic calibre MB 29.14 is revealed
through the sapphire crystal case-back and the
rotor and golden balance are particularly eye-
catching. The alligator strap completes
this Meisterstck. In the summer of 2014
you will be able to choose between a
very subtle and accessible steel version
or a warmly glowing variant in rose gold.
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and that was exactly the intention.
This is an archetypal calendar watch
and that is also clear from the modest 39mm
case in which the automatic calibre MB 29.15
powers the time and calendar functions for
all eternity. Masterful haute horlogerie for the mas-
ses. Or some of the masses, anyway.
8
0024 WATCHWORLD 43
quality with beautiful details which will cost
4,300. Quite different, but of the same high
quality, is the classic 39mm Meisterstck Heritage
Moonphase, which comes with a price tag of 2,965
in steel with a leather strap or 3,190 with a steel
bracelet. Incidentally, there is even a Meisterstck
for just under 1,690 in the form of the Heritage
Date. This is a classic and accessible watch of
impeccable quality that perfectly symbolises my
product-oriented vision. Whether we are creating
icons with the new Meisterstck watches? Only
time will tell.
5
W
e w
ant to add a new
dim
ension to the M
eisterstck concept
much emotion and
substance, that the
word becomes the
essence of who we
are as a House. With
the watch collection
we want to add a
new dimension to the
Meisterstck concept.
As a Watch House we want to consistently improve
ourselves and become more substantial. Already we
are noticing that the name Montblanc no longer
just represents writing instruments. People come
to us because they specically want a Montblanc
watch even people who are purchasing a luxury
watch for the rst time, and that says a lot about
the way people perceive our brand and products. By
continually enhancing our collections and giving
them more breadth and depth, we can retain people
in the Montblanc universe.
For 2014 it is important that we present
a strong series of watches in the 1,600
- 4,100 price segment. The TimeWalker
Extreme DLC Chronograph is a fashionable,
sporty and rugged watch of amazing
K
K
The former Monsieur Jaeger-
LeCoultre is now Herr Mont-
blanc. Jrme Lambert moved
from the village of Le Sentier in a
watch valley that time forgot to the
global port city of Hamburg. Quite a
change, one would think, but Lambert
feels completely at home and in the
right place. He is also lucky enough to
be able to return, on a regular
basis, to Le Locle, where Mont-
blanc produces its watches.
I
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O
L
V
E
D

V
I
S
I
O
N
A
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Y
How did the people in Hamburg react to my
appointment as CEO? I am quite different
from my predecessor (the predecessor in
question, Lutz Bethge, will remain involved
with Montblanc as a consultant, ed.) and
that is something everyone accepted right
away. It is important to have a vision and impart it
to others and that is only possible if, as a CEO, you
are involved with the companys people, processes
and products which I am. What we are seeing
here at SIHH 2014 is my product vision. We work in
a highly product-oriented sector, so the products we
launch are crucial. This is why in my rst months
as CEO of Montblanc I spent a lot of time analysing
our products and the product strategy. I came to
the conclusion that Montblanc is lacking a watch
collection that reects the essence of the House.
With the Meisterstck collection we use an iconic,
90-year-old name from the Montblanc universe
and the watches in this collection represent our
rich heritage. They are all precious designs
that show the depth of our tradition and
carry the Montblanc signature. A name
like Meisterstck is so loaded
with tradition, contains so
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Read more about
the Meisterstck
Heritage Date (left) on
[Link].
0024 WATCHWORLD 44
attached to the top crossbar. The spring barrel is
positioned between the foot of the clock and the
dial, and a 4.1m long spring provides an 8-day
power reserve. The clock is wound with a key.
The dial with Roman numerals and the black, lacquered
hands are exact replicas of the original model. The
hand-nished gear wheels, the bezel surrounding the
dial, the spring barrel and a number of other details are
gold-plated.
Needless to say, the most fundamental components
of the clock are the regulating pendulum and the
escapement as designed by Galileo Galilei. The system
consists of an escape wheel with 12 pins tted to its side
and 12 teeth cut into its perimeter, and three levers; one
on the left side of the clock and two on the right. The long
left lever that ends in a hook stops the escape wheel, the
two scissor-shaped variants on the right are the release
and impulse levers. When the wheel is in its stopped
phase the pendulum has no contact with
the escapement, which is why this system is
referred to as a free escapement. Thirty copies
will be built of this historical replica.
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SIHH 2014
Luminor 1950 Left-Handed
3-Days (PAM00557)
Lefties of the world unite and enjoy the
introduction of the left-handed version
of the Luminor 1950 3 Days 47mm.
The left-handedness originates with Navy
divers, who preferred to wear their watch on the
right wrist. A particularly nice detail of the watch
is the cusped shape of the bezel that suggests a
cushion shape and therefore differs from the
regular Luminor 1950. It is a reference to the
Radiomir that rst saw the light in 1936. Seven
hundred copies will be built each year, each
equipped with a robust P.3000 movement from
Panerais own manufacture, that ticks steadily at
21,600 vibrations per hour.
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Galileo Galileis Pendulum Clock
(PAM00500)
At Panerai they are proud of their military
diving past, but they also like to irt with their
Florentine origins. Local hero Galileo Galilei in
particular gets his share of the attention of the watch
house. At some point the company built a Jupiterium, a
planetary clock to honour the Tuscan genius, and there
was also the limited edition LAstronomo Luminor 1950
Equation of Time Tourbillon Oro Bianco, dedicated to
Galileis life and work. Now Panerai makes a grand gesture
with a pendulum clock
that is a meticulous
reproduction
of
an
instrument designed by
Galilei. The Florentine
scientist discovered that
it wasnt the pendulum
weight that determined
the duration of each
swing, but the length of
the pendulum itself. The
shorter the pendulum the
faster it moves back and
forth, because the time
of the swing is directly
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proportional to the square root of the pendulum
length. Example: a pendulum that is 1m in length
completes two swings against a single swing
made by a 4m pendulum. The pendulum Galilei
used for his discovery can still be seen today
in the Cathedral of Pisa, and the fact that the regular
movement of a pendulum could be useful in a clock was
something he discovered as well. He never built such a
clock himself. By the time Galilei developed his idea in
1641 he was almost completely blind and his son Vincenzo
was unable to realise his fathers ideas, so the pendulum
movement was rst realised by Christiaan Huygens
in 1656 but based on Galileis ndings and drawings
Panerai has now built a pendulum table clock.
Galileis idea is, however, represented in the pendulum
movement that was made by Florentine clockmaker
Eustachio Porcellotti in 1887, based on Galileis original
drawings, and that can be seen in the Museo Galileo in
Florence. Panerais clock is an accurate interpretation of
Porcellottis construction. The Pendulum Clock is 35.6cm
high, 18.5cm wide and 11.1cm deep; dimensions derived
from Galileis original design. The frame consists
of two platines that are connected at the top
and bottom by means of a crossed, traditional
connection held in place by tapered pins. The
escapement and the pendulum mechanism are
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0024 WATCHWORLD 45
Luminor 1950 Chrono
Monopulsante Left-
Handed 8 Days Titanio
(PAM00579)
You need to be decisive if you want
to be in the running to purchase
one of the 300 copies of this limited edition
watch with the endlessly long name. Just
remember PAM 579 and thats one obstacle
out of the way. This Chrono Lefty has all the
prerequisites to become a collectors item. The
47mm Special Edition combines a number of
historical characteristics of the watches that
were made especially for the commandos
of the Royal Italian Navy in the 1930s
and 40s. To save weight and guarantee
comfort for everyday wear, the solid case
is made of lightweight titanium instead
of steel. The characteristic sandwich dial
and the sapphire crystal look traditional but,
more importantly, clear and easy to read. The
beautifully decorated manual calibre P.2004/9,
which uses a column wheel to accurately
start the single push-button chronograph,
Radiomir 1940
Chronograph
The 45mm case of
the Radiomir 1940
Chronograph
is
available in three materials,
but the mix of the traditional
cushion case and the more
solid looks of the Luminor
remains the same. This also applies to the use of Plexiglas
to ensure the historically correct feel and to be on the
safe side the watches are supplied with a spare copy
the polished nish and the cylindrical crown and bezel.
The dial (Panerais renowned sandwich dial, consisting
of two layers with luminescent material visible through
the apertures) is a new design, but it does rely strongly
on the history of the Florentine watch house. The
high point of this chronograph, however, is the calibre
ON XXV, which is based on the sublime Minerva 13-22
movement. Once again historically correct,
in view of the collaboration in the early days.
Fifty copies in platinum, 100 in rose gold and
100 in white gold will be made.
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can be seen through the sapphire crystal
case-back. Other interesting functions of
this movement are a minute counter that
doesnt glide smoothly but jumps once
every minute, and if the crown is pulled
out the seconds hand of the time function
automatically jumps to zero. When the time has
been adjusted accurately to the last second and
the crown is pushed back in, the seconds hand
continues where it left off.
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Platino (PAM00518)
Oro Rosso
(PAM00519)
O
ro B
ianco (PA
M
00520)
0024 WATCHWORLD 46
was then spread out over the 38mm surface and
the dial was integrated by recessing it into the
movement.
The space between the hands and the crystal is
so small that there was a risk these components
might actually touch, with all the resulting
inconvenient inaccuracies. This is why the
Piaget technicians installed minuscule pillars
to keep the whole thing sufciently rigid to
eliminate the possibility of contact. It took
three years to develop this miraculously
thin, technically creative and aesthetically
contemporary-looking watch. It is difcult to
express in words how a wafer-thin watch with
a visibly beating heart feels, but fortunately
the description of the creation and the
construction method of Altiplano 38mm
900P must be as meticulous as in the case
of a Grand Complication; that says enough.
And, incidentally, a world record is
always emotionally charged and
uplifting.
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SIHH 2014
Piaget
Altiplano 38mm 900P
Sometimes it is difcult to comprehend haute
horlogerie. It is hard to express in words all
that happens and all that is needed to elevate
a complicated micro-mechanical quantity of
individual components into an emotionally
charged entity. When it comes to a watch with a long
laundry list of complications the spectacle is easier
to understand when looking at all the functions and
the quantity of components needed than when the
miracle happens on a more modest scale.
Upon rst being shown a picture of Piagets new
Altiplano 38mm 900P the beholder sees a white or
rose gold watch with a dial which, at rst glance,
appears to be openworked. But that is very far from
the truth. The 900P has a total thickness of just
3.6mm, making it the worlds thinnest mechanical
watch. In order to realise this wafer-thin result
a conventional approach to constructing the
movement and case would have been
counter-productive. The magic of this
watch starts at the back of the case the
inside of the back of the case, to be exact,
because this part of the watch is also the
platine of the movement. The movement
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0024 WATCHWORLD 47
RM 36-01 G-Sensor
Tour billon Sbastien Loeb
The craziness continues! Last year Richard
Mille presented his rst watch with mecha-
nical G-Force Sensor, the RM 036, and this year a new variant has been realised with the RM 36-01, built especially for recently retired rally king Sbastien Loeb. Unlike its predecessor, the RM 36-01 does not have a tonneau-shaped case but a round case a 47.7mm case made of lightweight and ultra- strong polymer, carbon bre and titanium with a height of 13.37mm, to be exact. The centre of atten- tion is the G-force sensor that can register up to 6 Gs. By turning the brown bezel the sensor which con- sists of 50 components can be turned in the desired (driving) direction to measure the forces released in various types of motion, like bends, acceleration and braking. Really? Really! Anything is possible in the world of Richard Mille.
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RM 63-01 Dizzy Hands
Richard Mille is obsessed with technology.
However, we are now seeing, for the rst
time, that there is a poetic side to the man
as well, expressed in a watch that is inspired
by a poem about time: Le Temps by 19th-century
French poet Grard de Nerval. The poem deals with
the surprises and the control of time (or, as Nerval
wrote: Le Temps ne surprend pas le sage; Mais du
Temps le sage se rit, Car lui seul and connat lusage)
and this watch makes an attempt to turn these
words into something tangible. First of all that requi-
res a movement, and for this watch that is the new
automatic CRMA3 calibre. The movement uses dif-
ferent chronograph technologies, such as a column
wheel-controlled sapphire crystal disc showing the
hours. By activating the push-button that is located
in the crown this disc revolves anticlockwise while
the hands revolve clockwise at a different speed.
A 42.7mm rose gold and titanium case forms
the theatrical backdrop to this poetic way of
looking at and experiencing time.
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RM 50-01 Tourbillon Chro-
nograph G-Sensor Lotus F1
Team Romain Grosjean
Starting with the new season Richard
Mille is the ofcial time recorder for the
Lotus F1 Team and that simply demands a special
watch. And so a very colourful watch was built
especially for Lotus driver Romain Grosjean. With
the Lotus F1 team colours, of course, resulting
in a successful, top class sports watch. Like the
watch made for fellow driver Loeb, the Grosjean
watch features a G-force sensor (although it is
not quite as prominent), but this is not the most
striking element of the RM 50-01. That is the use
of the so-called NTPT carbon bre, which consists
of more than 600 layers with a thickness of 30
microns each, heated and compressed to create an
incredibly stiff, strong and lightweight material.
The production and processing methods
result in an appearance that resembles the
crosscut of a tree trunk; uniquely organic
and state-of-the-art technology at the
same time.
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We have one last trump
card for you: the RM 61-01
Yohan Blake. If you want
to know more, just go to
[Link].
0024 WATCHWORLD 48
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SIHH 2014
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Hommage Flying Tourbillon,
Tribute to Mr Roger Dubuis
This complicated model from the Hommage
collection is really a double accolade. The
Hommage pays tribute to the rst collection
and this Hommage Flying Tourbillon, Tribute to
Mr Roger Dubuis was inspired by a watch that rst
saw the light in 2003. Like the original, this Tribute
has a ying tourbillon, a large date indicator and a
power reserve indicator. The dial of this Hommage
was designed with rather more restraint, without
jeopardising any of its presence. The watch will be
produced in a limited edition of 208, a number that
corresponds with the student number Roger Dubuis had
when attending the Geneva school for watchmakers.
The engraved signature of the watchmaster graces the
sapphire crystal case-back through which the RD540
calibre is clearly visible; the true signature of the master.
power reserve, consisting of
452 hand-nished components.
After 1,200 hours of hard but
meticulous work this watch
is nished and 360 of those
1,200 hours have been spent on
meeting the stringent Geneva
Seal criteria.
Hommage Double
Flying Tourbillon
The limitless extravagance and yearning
for the mythical now appear to be in check.
In 2014 Roger Dubuis is back to basics and
pays tribute to the founder of the House of the same
name with a revived Hommage collection dating
back to 1995. The collection is an eclectic mix of
high-quality movements and various traditional
watchmaking skills like engraving. That doesnt
mean that there is no room left for the by now
characteristic extravagance in the form of diamonds,
opulent shapes and double tourbillons. The most
expressive creation in the collection is without a
doubt the Hommage Double Flying Tourbillon. The
two tourbillons, together with the immaculate,
high-gloss guilloch pattern, dominate the look of
the watch. Less eye-catching but equally worthy of
your attention is the polished and brushed 45mm
case. Beautiful lines, gorgeous nishes and robust
round shoulders result in a balanced
backdrop against which the complication
and the shiny dial play the starring role. The
complication in question is the new, double
revolving RD100 calibre with 50-hour
Hommage Chronograph
The two counters give this chronograph a
traditional dial layout, but the shiny guilloch
dial, in contrast, looks very modern. The same
applies to the case, which has a modest 42mm
size but at the same time looks ruggedly modern, and
to the Roman numerals that are essentially classic but
manage to look contemporary because of the way in
which they are presented. The back of the watch reveals
the exquisite calibre RD680 which will undoubtedly
enchant the informed watch acionado and attract
intense attention. Firstly, the chronograph calibre is
beautifully nished; secondly, it comes with a column
wheel for an extremely accurate start to the time
recording and, last but denitely not least, it comes with
a micro rotor. Large rotors dominate the world of the
automatic movement, which makes this view of a much
rarer, small version a pleasant surprise. Roger Dubuis is
one of the few houses that fabricates movements with
a micro rotor and this furiously spinning
version is made of tungsten, a heavy transition
metal which, because of this characteristic, is
able to provide the chronograph calibre with
enough energy.
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0024 WATCHWORLD 49
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Midnight Nuit Australe
Van Cleef & Arpels has given the southern
hemisphere its own watch as well, and
this time a rose gold case was selected as
the backdrop to an exotic rmament. This
model pays tribute to scientists and explorers from
years past. The zodiac signs of Swordsh and Toucan
are based on drawings by Amsterdam astronomer
and cartographer Petrus Plancius. The blue-grey dial
is made using a process that was developed in 16th
century Limoges. Grisaille enamelling is a technique
used to create dramatic effects with just two colours.
The bottom layer is dark and is polished after ring.
A picture is then created on top with a very ne
needle or brush, using a white powder enamel called
Blanc de Limoges. After ring and re-drawing
30 times a beautifully detailed dial is created. The
mysterious blue glow is as elusive as the price.
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Pierre Arpels Heure dici &
Heure dailleurs
Pierre Arpels, nephew of founder Estelle,
was a bon vivant and society gure who
was very fond of travelling, sometimes for
his job and sometimes purely because he enjoyed
seeing the world. His business travel took him
to Persia in 1966 when Van Cleef & Arpels was
invited to create the Crown Jewels for Empress
Farah Pahlavi of Persia. Over a six-month period
Pierre ew back and forth to Teheran 24 times,
to carefully select the precious stones that would
be incorporated in the Crown Jewels in a studio
specially set up by Van Cleef & Arpels in Persia for
that purpose. People who travel as much as Pierre
want to know the local time, but also the time
back home. To put it in Van Cleef terminology:
the time here and the time elsewhere. Hence
this watch, which was developed in partnership
with creative watchmaker Jean-Marc
Wiederrecht and his company Agenhor.
A traditional watch with two time zones
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would not suit the Watch House, so a
system with a double jumping hour was
devised. The reference time can be seen in
the top window and the second time can
be read digitally in the bottom window.
Both hours jump simultaneously thanks to a
synchronised system that drives the two hours
and the retrograde minute hand. Thanks to the
use of a beautifully decorated, platinum micro
rotor the automatic movement is also anything
but standard.
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Midnight Nuit Borale
Its all about the dial in this collection,
which has the telling name Extraordinary
Dials. The 42mm white gold case is an
almost plain stage on which the starry rmament
above the northern hemisphere shines. Inspiration
for the dial, which is made using a method of
enamelling called grisaille, was found in the gods
and creatures of Greek mythology. The dragon
guards the Golden Fleece, the swan refers to the
wicked plan hatched by the God Zeus to seduce
Leda in the guise of a swan, the female gure
stands for Cassiopeia held captive on her throne
and Ursa Major and Ursa Minor represent the
nymph Callisto and her son Arcas. The dial of each
of these watches in the limited edition of 22 takes
seventy hours of superior craftsmanship to build.
Also note the clear, yellow-gold dots that represent
the stars in the constellations. The back
of the case also features an engraving of
Polaris, the clearest star in the Ursa Minor
constellation.
0024 WATCHWORLD 50
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SIHH 2014
Malte Tourbillon
Those who would like a tonneau-shaped, platinum
Malte and also appreciate an accurately
spinning tourbillon but dont feel the need for
a transparent mechanism on their wrist can
always opt for the Malte Tourbillon that was
added to the Collection Excellence Platine this
year. Both the case and the dial are made of
intensely shiny, heavy platinum. Platinum
is also used in the silk thread used to stitch
the alligator strap. The 38 x 48.24mm case
houses the custom-shaped calibre 2795
that was designed and built in Vacheron
Constantins own manufacture. It has a
frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour and
a power reserve of 45 hours. All 50 copies to
be made of this Malte Tourbillon
will have the Geneva quality seal.
Mtiers dArt Mcaniques
Ajoures
Skeletonising is a painfully precise job that
requires tremendous handcrafting skills.
It is sometimes considered a complication, but in
real terms skeletonising has no functional qualities,
just aesthetic ones, and is therefore not recognised
as such. However, that doesnt make a meticulously
skeletonised movement any less impressive. Vacheron
Constantin has a rich tradition of skeletonised
watches in which the four new Mtiers dArt
Mcaniques Ajoures watches three versions with a
ring on the outside of the dial in black, blue and grey
Grand Feu enamel and one variant with black enamel
and a bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds have a
prominent position. The calibre 4400 SQ is an open-
worked variant of the hand-wound calibre 4400, and
the way in which the excess material is removed is
inspired by the arches found in architecture. Picture
19th-century train stations with their arched
steel constructions, or the arches in a Gothic
cathedral.
Malte Tourbillon
Openworked
Delicate and prestigious, the Malte
Tourbillon Openworked has an almost
diaphanous skeletonised calibre 2790
SQ that needs no architectural inspiration. This
movement is a more traditional but no less
artistically designed tour de force, which is
essentially the custom-shaped calibre 2790
that ticks at 18,000 steady vibrations per hour.
Although a lot of material has been removed,
some things have been added, as well: two
functions, namely a power reserve indicator
and a date indicator. This not only increases
the number of components but also the height.
Not that a height of 6.1mm is particularly thick,
but we thought wed mention it. The Malte
Tourbillon Openworked, which is only available
in platinum, measures 38 x 48.24 x 12.73mm.
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Vacheron
Constantin
0024 WATCHWORLD 51
appeasing answers are part of my job.
It is interesting to see that our department
that deals with orders for unique pieces is
growing signicantly. Vacheron Constantin
has a long tradition of making complicated pocket
and wristwatches to order, and that is something we
cherish and try to reinforce even more. When it comes
to realising a special order we are only limited by our
ability. Sometimes we exceed ourselves, but we keep
quiet about that. After all, we committed ourselves
to remaining silent. If the ecstatic customer is
subsequently unable to restrain himself and breaks
the secrecy by sharing the watch on the Internet, for
example, that is the ultimate compliment for us.
Malte Small Seconds
You are already familiar with the rose gold Malte
Small Seconds, and the White Gold version is a new,
fresh interpretation of the watch with the special
tonneau shape. Everything remains the
same, except the exterior. The almost basic
look of the watch is fresh, with a light
colour scheme using white gold and a mix
of simple traditional and contemporary
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Carlos Charly Torres is the self-

assured front man of a leading
Watch House. He knows the ropes,
is relaxed and doesnt hesitate to
give his honest opinion. Torres talks
about the current collection and the
future of the manufacture.
The year 2013 was a good one for us. You cant
possibly complain about double-digit growth.
Well have to see what 2014 brings, but I am
full of condence because our customers seem
to have total condence in us. I realised that,
among other things, from a conversation I recently had
with a watch collector. I asked him to estimate the price
of a new model. His estimate was much too high, which
shows us that our pricing isnt unrealistic. Our prices
are what they are and are what they should be. We
dont lie about the price, we dont use magic to decide
our prices, we calculate our prices exactly the same way
we did 30 years ago.
Its all part of our long-term philosophy. Vacheron
Constantin is what it is because it maintains high
standards. Among other things a homogeneous
collection is very important, so I make sure that the
gaps in the collection are lled with the right models.
Then I ask people like journalists what they think of
the new models. I hope to get honest answers, maybe
even extreme reactions I can do something with
those. If someone says they feel the Malte
Small Seconds deserves a custom-shaped
movement that is an opinion I respect and
support. Being politically correct and giving
features; call it timeless. The 36.7mm x 47.61mm
case is home to the hand-wound 4400 AS
calibre with 127 components and a frequency
of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This calibre
can be admired through the round aperture
on the back and invokes a number of questions. Why
does Vacheron Constantin use a round movement in
this watch, instead of a custom-shaped movement
like it does in the tourbillon versions of the Malte,
for example? And, when will the Malte get a custom-
shaped movement? Juan-Carlos Torres replies: Its on
its way. I cant say exactly when, but the round calibre
in this Malte will be replaced by a custom-shaped
movement. Being Vacheron Constantin, we owe that
to our position. Until then the price for the watch with
the round movement is available upon application.
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On [Link]
Juan-Carlos Torres talks
about the other SIHH novelties from
Vacheron Constantin, in particular
about the Malte Small Seconds.
0024 WATCHWORLD 52
SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk
Complicated,
fashionable trump cards
SIHH flashback
The deck has been shufed and split and the
cards are face-up on the table. As always,
Richard Mille was blufng and mocking with
G-forces, with a complete poker face A. Lange
& Shne presents yet another astonishing
German complication and this year Panerai
hid two trump cards in its vest pocket.
However, once analysed, the trend of the
most-visited SIHH ever is more substantial,
subtle and level than the previous edition.
F
ashionable horloge-
rie and small, thin
complications, two
trends that stand
out at the Salon International
de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH).
We start with relatively little
complexity but a high level of
style. Audemars Piguets Royal
Oak Offshore Chronograph in a
steel 42mm case is available in
a number of versions. The Navy
in blue with orange and the
sand-coloured Safari with brown details look
fresh and modern, but it is denitely the version
with a subtle slate-grey dial and perfectly mat-
ching alligator strap with sharp crease in the
middle (referred to as hornback) that stands
out as the most trendy and ultra-modern. Its
look is perfect and subtly sophisticated and
just one more year we will overlook the fact
that the watch does not have an integrated
proprietary chronograph movement. As a side
note, to the somewhat sarcastic comment that
the lack of a manufacture movement is not
(yet) a problem for the companys clientele and
Audemars Piguet therefore doesnt have to rush
to create a new proprietary calibre, head desig-
ner Octavio Garcia responded with an equally
sarcastic Yeah, thats exactly why. Or was he
serious? Either way, this year the vulnerable
rubber has been replaced by ceramic and the
overall package of details has been given a
much more subtle and top-quality style with
the intriguing grey, glowing variant as the
luxury trendsetter.
When Roger Dubuis focuses on the past and
exercises restraint the brand comes up with an
unexpectedly strong contender. Forget double
ying tourbillons and behold the 42mm white
gold Hommage Automatic. This basic model
combines an almost disco-worthy exterior that
shimmers like the interior of a trendy club with
Poinon de Genve quality. The Hommage
Automatic is basic as only a Roger Dubuis watch
can be basic. This effect is achieved with the
combination of a dial with manually applied
guilloch that throws back the light and the
automatic calibre RD620 manufacture move-
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WATCHWORLD 53
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ment with micro-rotor. The signature of master
watchmaker Roger Dubuis, which is engraved
in the sapphire crystal case-back, is a subtle and
dignied tribute.
Extremes with substance
Complexity in increasingly smaller spaces
is the motto. At Jaeger-LeCoultre the
complicated movements increasingly show
up in shrinking watch cases and the rose
gold 41mm Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731
is equally modest in its dimensions. This
model was actually presented just before the
SIHH, but the Geneva watch salon was the
7
7
DEVILISH DILEMMA
IWC AQUATIMER AUTOMATIC VS. CARTIER CALIBRE DE CARTIER DIVER
rst opportunity to experience the model
physically and acoustically. Named for the
year founder Jean-Marc Vacheron was born,
the calibre 1731 movement with minute
repetition has a height of just 3.9mm and
the watch as a whole is a mere 8.09mm high;
the thinnest watch of its kind currently in
production. Incidentally, the movement is not
just thin, it is also ingenious with the use of
a completely silent striking mechanism. The
fact that the watch is the epitome of carefully
balanced style with small seconds between
7 and 9 oclock makes it even more desirable.
Equally small, subtle and restrained, but
many times more accessible, is the Montblanc
Meisterstck Heritage Perpetual Calendar,
with a highly traditional steel 39mm case.
Within the restrictions of a classical calendar
watch this creation is a resounding surprise.
For approximately 8,000 you will get a
perpetual calendar that is accurate until 2100,
in a classic design that was realised under the
supervision of former Jaeger-LeCoultre top
man Jrme Lambert pedigree always shows.
With the Meisterstck collection as a whole,
but particularly with this model, the new CEO
of Montblanc is showing us the direction he
plans to take and that gives the critical watch
acionado courage and condence. What a
strong trump card.
Which of these two watches do you prefer? Tell us on [Link], where you will also can nd the top 5 favourite SIHH watches from 0024 editors Lex Stolk and Kristian Haagen.
IWC
42mm steel water resistant
to 300m automatic movement
based on the ETA 2892-A with a
42-hour power reserve external/
internal diving ring with SafeDive
system price: 4,990
CARTIER
42mm steel water resistant to
300m automatic manufacture
movement 1904 MC with 48-hour
power reserve diving ring fea-
tures ADLC coating for smooth
operation ISO 6425-certifed
divers watch price: 5,700
7
7
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Vacheron Constantin Patrimony
Contemporaine Ultra-Thin Calibre 1731
0024 WATCHWORLD 54
SIHH 2014 By Lex Stolk, pictures Van Cleef & Arpels
0024 WATCHWORLD 55
PLANETARY
POETRY
over
Paris and
Nijehaske
L
et me start by confessing something.
I am not a patriot. I dont feel proud
of my homeland Holland to me
it is simply a random geographical
location on our planet in an endless universe
where I was plonked down unasked and
yet, I have recently started to understand a
little of how it feels to burst with pride when
the Netherlands is in the game. Strangely
enough this revelation did not come to me
while watching football or some other sport,
but in a temporary presentation room during
the Geneva SIHH watch salon, when the name
Christiaan van der Klaauw was mentioned
during the unveiling of the Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication by Van Cleef
& Arpels. The astronomical masterpiece was
realised in collaboration with the Watch House
from Friesland, a region in the Northern part of
the Netherlands, and that announcement made
me nudge the people to the right and left of me
and nod at them with a self-satised expression.
There you go, thats the Netherlands for you, is
the message.
Obviously there isnt really anything for me
to be proud of. However, Danil Reintjes,
co-owner of the Watch House that specialises
in celestial bodies denitely has reason to feel
proud. Together with the team of specialists in
the workshop in the Dutch village Nijehaske
he made sure that the poetic dream of Van
Cleef & Arpels could become reality. It is an
honour that the famous Parisian jeweller, who
has been based in the famous Place Vendme
Planets like precious stones in a miniature universe. The jewel
experts at Van Cleef & Arpels are responsible for designing the
44mm rmament and the specialists in the area of astronomi-
cal complications at Christiaan van der Klaauw Astronomical
Watches ensure that everything rotates around each other.
Parisian air and precision from the Dutch village Nijehaske
combine to make astronomically correct watch poetry.
0024 WATCHWORLD 56
since 1906 and whose creations are worn by
Royals, jetsetters and idols like Grace Kelly and
Elizabeth Taylor, contacted a watchmaker in a
Dutch province.
But at the same time, its only logical: Christiaan
van der Klaauws Planetarium watch from the
late 1990s has earned a very prominent place
in the history of the astronomical watch. The
watch is among the high points of the haute
horlogerie and obviously the people in Paris
came to the same conclusion. For the realisation
of a much-talked-about and visually astounding
complication they had to get in touch with
Friesland.
That initial contact was made around
three years ago, Reintjes tells us after the
presentation which is accompanied by
thrumming animated lms when we are
walking to the glass case where the real watch
sparkles in a bright spotlight. I was invited to
come to Paris to talk about the idea. Once we
agreed on the basics it became a long process
of back and forth suggestions, he explains
while he opens a notebook. Look, these are
the rst sketches and suggestions for the case.
Obviously it had to be a Van Cleef watch and
not a Van der Klaauw, so in my capacity as
designer I had to work in a different way. Now
I tend to be stubborn, so we had our moments
along the way.
Celestial body on the wrist
The French/Dutch collaboration ultimately
resulted in the Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication, a 44mm
rose gold watch that is surprisingly thin for
such a complicated creation, but more about
that later. First lets take a look at the dial.
This is dominated by seven discs made of
aventurine (a quartz crystal with encapsulated
sparkling mineral particles) with in between,
on miniscule stems, the different planets in our
solar system that revolve at the true speed of
their orbit around the central sun. For the sake
of clarity and from slow to fast: Saturn (sugilite)
makes one full revolution of the dial in 29 years,
Jupiter (blue agate) does it in just under 12 years,
Mars (red jasper) in 687 days, Earth (turquoise)
in the familiar 365 days, Venus (rubellite) a little
faster in 224 days and Mercury (serpentine)
much faster in 88 days. The mechanism,
which is added as a module to the basic RD821
movement by Roger Dubuis, is a creation of the
specialists at Van der Klaauw and consists of an
impressive 396 components.
The astronomical module in combination
with the basic automatic movement caused
quite a few headaches, says Reintjes: We have
a Planetarium watch in our own collection
and although we were able to draw on our
knowledge of that watch, this is quite a
different, much smaller planetarium. So really
we started from scratch. Because the hour
display was positioned on the outside we had
to start working from the inside with the sun
as the centre, and that requires quite a different
construction than our own planetarium.
Furthermore, we encountered the problem of
the rotor when we decided to put the calendar
indicators on the back.
The inuence of Van Cleef & Arpels can be seen
in a number of different aesthetic aspects. The
Watch House has considerable expertise when
it comes to precious stones, and that manifests
itself in the different types of gemstones used
for the planets. Each planet is made from a
characteristic stone not perfectly round like
the planets themselves and they circle around
a rose gold sun.
However accurately everything revolves, it
is impossible to tell the time intuitively
and anyway, that wouldnt be poetic at all.
Van Cleef & Arpels Midnight
Plantarium Poetic Complication
SIHH 2014
We didnt start with a mechanical
concept, but with an idea
0024 WATCHWORLD 57
Consequently there are no traditional hands
and those who want to tell the time must
search the rmament for a shooting star that
revolves around the scale on the outside of the
dial in a 24-hour period. Incidentally, the watch
also shows the day, date and year, and these can
be set via the push-buttons on the side of the
case. To read these functions the watch must be
turned upside down: the transparent case-back
reveals these earthly functionalities.
Shooting stars
The frivolous, unique and poetic highpoint of
the watch is the star engraved in the crystal.
By revolving the beautifully notched bezel and
indicating a special day with the use of a red
triangle a birthday, Mothers Day, Valentines
Day, a wedding day, you name it the user will
see that when that special day has arrived the
blue earth is positioned exactly underneath
the star. Astronomical precision and a touch
of eccentric poetry is obviously limited and
doesnt come cheap. The nal price of the
Midnight Plantarium Poetic Complication
will be somewhere around 185,800. But apart
from a unique, creative piece, this watch is
also a technical masterpiece. Just look at the
relatively thin case. This is the hobbyhorse of
Denis Giguet, Technical Director of the horology
department at Van Cleef & Arpels.
It was a ght for millimetres, no, tenths of
millimetres, Giguet tells us with a proud
smile. Everything had to be kept as thin as
possible. The module on the basic movement,
but especially also the planets that had to move
between the discs of the dial components, had
to be kept as low as possible. I dont know how
many times I sent people back to their desk
disappointed with the instruction to go lower.
Im afraid for a while I wasnt very popular.
An astronomical module deals with strong
forces and when the cogwheels become too
thin the functioning of the watch may be
jeopardised, so it was quite a tall order to
stay within the set limits of 13.4mm, but we
managed to do it without compromising on the
very highest quality. This insistence on a certain
maximum height has mostly to do with our
philosophy, because at Van Cleef we dont start
with a mechanical concept but with an idea,
a story we want to tell. This idea then comes
to life for our CEO Nicolas Bos, the marketing
department in Paris, our designers in Geneva
and, in the case of our astronomical tour de
force, the people at Van der Klaauw as well. Only
once the idea is sufciently crystallised and it
looks as if from a technical point of view the
watch is possible do we make the rst sketches.
Some of those early sketches in Danil Reintjes
notebook feature the shooting star that is also
present in the nal watch, although not quite
the same. I really wanted to do something
exciting with that shooting star, Reintjes
explains. Instead of letting that star revolve in
a 24-hour period I thought it would be a nice
idea to let the star shoot to the right time by
means of a special system. By pushing a button
you would change the static star into a shooting
star. But that would have taken far too much
space and unfortunately that is something we
didnt have. I also had to give up my idea of
excentric orbits for the planets.
It may be a pity that Reintjes idea died a quiet
death, but in the name of the all-important
aesthetics even the brand name Van Cleef
& Arpels didnt manage to make it into the
foreground. Of course we could have put
the name somewhere on the dial or in the
crystal, but that wouldnt have done justice to
the watch so we didnt, Giguet explains this
integrity. Nothing is allowed to compromise
the aesthetics of our watches, not even our own
logo. This is the kind of French hard-headedness
they understand in Friesland.
I wanted to use a shooting star,
but that took too much space
Time
Every day the watch confronts us
with the passing of the hours and
minutes: the hands spin round
and round and the time is elusive.
For some the traditional, round
watch cases are an ironic symbol
of the treadmill on which we nd
ourselves, but for watch aciona-
dos the circle represents eternity
and perfection. The perfect sym-
metry, the countless ways to lay
out the dial, the division into
hours and minutes... And, every
day again: a new round, new
opportunities, as soon as the hour
hand and the seconds hand join
each other at 12 oclock.
PHOTOSHOOT
By: Britta Rossander, pictures: Eric Satten
Set designer: Niklas Hansen/Link Details
Special thanks to: Nymans Ur 1851, Krons Ur and Bo Berggren Urhandel
0024 WATCHWORLD 58
goes
round
round
and
HERMS DRESSAGE QUANTIME SIMPLE
Material: steel Size: 40.5 x 38.4mm Movement: automatic, calibre Vaucher H1837
Power reserve: 50 hours Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date at 6 oclock
BREGUET MARINE AUTOMATIC BIG DATE
Material: steel Diameter: 39mm Movement: automatic, calibre 517GG
Power reserve: 65 hours Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
0024 WATCHWORLD 59
TAG HEUER CARRERA CALIBRE 1887 JACK HEUER CHRONOGRAPH
Material: titanium Diameter: 45mm Movement: automatic, calibre 1887
Power reserve: 50 hours Functions: chronograph, pulsometer, tachymeter, date
BULGARI ENDURER CHRONOSPRINT
Material: steel Diameter: 56mm Movement: automatic, calibre DR 1306
Power reserve: 45 hours Functions: date, second time zone
0024 WATCHWORLD 60
PHOTOSHOOT
BREITLING TRANSOCEAN CHRONOGRAPH
Material: steel and rose gold Diameter: 43mm
Movement: automatic, calibre Breitling 01
Power reserve: 70 hours
Functions: chronograph, date
0024 WATCHWORLD 61
0024 WATCHWORLD 62
PHOTOSHOOT
CHOPARD CLASSIC
Material: white gold Diameter: 33mm
Movement: automatic, calibre Sellita SW300
Power reserve: 42 hours
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR
EVOLUTION GMT CHRONOGRAPH
Material: steel Diameter: 45mm
Movement: automatic, calibre LV92
Power reserve: 42 hours Functions: chronograph,
GMT, day and night indicator
0024 WATCHWORLD 63
OMEGA SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA > 15000 GAUSS
Material: steel Diameter: 41.5mm Movement: automatic, Co-Axial calibre 8508
Power reserve: 60 hours Functions: chronometer, date
IWC PORTOFINO AUTOMATIC
Material: steel Diameter: 40mm Movement: automatic, calibre 35110
Power reserve: 42 hours Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date
0024 WATCHWORLD 64
PHOTOSHOOT
ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL DAY-DATE
Material: white gold Diameter: 36mm
Movement: automatic, calibre 3155
Power reserve: 48 hours Functions: day and
date indicator, stop seconds
0024 WATCHWORLD 65
INTERVIEW By Lex Stolk, pictures Herms
Arceau Lift
0024 WATCHWORLD 66
WATCHES
have more
growth potential
than LEATHER
and SILK
The watch campaign of
Herms CEO Luc Perramond
The Herms agship store in the
Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor
in Paris looks like a fortress.
Look up from the street and see
how a horseman keeps a close
eye on everything from the roof.
The saddle makers of yesteryear
built an emporium based on
traditional quality and today it
is lled with a range of luxury
goods, including watches.
Increasingly complicated
watches intended to conquer
the world. 0024 WatchWorld
talks to CEO Luc Perramond in
the Parisian bulwark.
T
he Herms head ofce is a real
labyrinth. Behind the facade of
the several-stories-high agship
people are hard at work in countless
uneven-oored ofces in narrow hallways that
unpredictably meander to the left and then
suddenly veer off at right angles. In one of these
rooms CEO Luc Perramond awaits us to talk
about the Arceau Lift the most complicated
Herms watch creation and the watch strategy
of the house in general. Luc Perramond never
gives the impression that he is holding anything
back. He tells things the way they are, nothing
more, nothing less. So no diversions or smokes-
creens when we ask him about the movement
of the recently revealed Arceau Lift. The
movement was built in conjunction with the
specialists at La Joux-Perret, Perramond tells us.
Since 2006 we have been investing in Vaucher
for the manufacture of our own movements

Luc Perramond
0024 WATCHWORLD 67
but this highly complicated calibre, of which
only very few copies are being made, is a job for
specialists.
Which doesnt mean that the integration of the
different facets of watchmaking doesnt keep
on progressing. Since 2011 we have shares in
case producer Erard and last year we became
the full owner of Nateber, a producer of dials.
That shows that we are ambitiously working
on establishing Herms as an integrated watch
producer.
The magic (marketing) word manufacture
comes up. We currently control three strate-
gic components of a watch: the movement,
the case and the hands, Perramond explains.
That we make our own leather straps goes
without saying and together with those other
three components around 95 percent and
sometimes even more of the components of
a Herms watch actually come from Herms.
Talking about manufacture; we are the only
watch house that makes its own leather straps.
Every watch has hands, but they are still
lacking in the component chain forged by Her-
ms. Perramond knows why this is: Although
the hands are an essential component of a
watch, I still think they are a component that
we have to integrate in our house. To be cost-
efcient hands must be produced on a large
scale, and we are simply not big enough. Other
watch brands dont really have something that
ts in with our strategy, so we purchase hands
elsewhere. We do business with the best Swiss
hand makers to make sure that our quality
standards are never compromised. Now we can
focus on our latest acquisitions and develop
them to the best of our ability; in the area of
quality as well as quantity.
That comment takes us to the growth of Her-
ms as a watch brand. Haute horlogerie has
conquered the world and Herms wants a sha-
re of it, but that is only possible if enough inte-
resting mechanical watches can distributed
around the world. At Herms watches are con-
sidered a growth product, Perramond reveals,
not entirely unexpectedly. Luxury watches are
a business unit that has more growth potential
than the more established product catego-
ries like leather and silk. We have enormous
potential with our watches. With a turnover of
176 million, watches currently constitute 5% of
the total Herms turnover. I believe that with
the production of our watches we can grow
that to a 10% share, which is why we continue
to invest in products with added value that
will surprise our customer base when it comes
to creativity and innovation. With the new
Arceau Lift we have created a serious complica-
tion that will stand rmly alongside our poetic
complications like Le Temps Suspendu. When it
comes to traditional as well as creative compli-
cations, the world will hear from us. Come and
take a look at BaselWorld 2014, when it is once
again time for complicated technology and
poetry in the shape of a watch.
We are the only
watch house that
makes its own
leather straps
0024 WATCHWORLD 68
INTERVIEW
THE TOURBILLON, THE LIFT
AND THE LETTER
A watch that draws its inspiration from a lift.
In the amazing, creative universe of Herms
anything is possible. The new Arceau Lift is
closely related to an old lift embellished with
a double H pattern. Herms has used the
emblematic motif since 1900 and it can be
seen on a lift that was installed in the boutique
at number 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honor
in 1923. The double H is a tribute to the mar-
riage between the grandson of founder mile
Herms and Julie Hollande in 1900. The en-
graved tribute can be seen in the watch at 12
oclock and 6 oclock, where the spring barrel
and the ying tourbillon respectively are visible.
Incidentally, the spring barrel stores enough
energy for 90 hours. Some more numbers: the
watch consists of 170 components and both
the assembly and the nishing take 40 hours.
We continue: the Arceau Lift is limited to just
176 pieces (2013 - 1837= 176, with the num-
ber 1837 which stands for the year the house
of Herms was founded) and has a 43mm rose
gold case that is home to the hand-wound
calibre H1923, realised in conjunction with
La Joux-Perret. The price of this most com-
plicated of all Herms watch creations will be
around 107,000. For that amount the buyer
becomes the proud owner of a watch with an
highly individual face with the unique and
inimitable Herms signature. Just look at the
chevron pattern, familiar from the silk ties
made by the company, engraved in the dial
that is not really a dial because the design uses
an open structure of the movement. This gives
the ying tourbillon a very prominent and
three-dimensional position. The image on the
case-back shows an engraving of a horse and
carriage with a coachman; pure Herms.
0024 WATCHWORLD 69
0024 WATCHWORLD 70
ESSAY
Once Upon a Timepiece
BREITLING
Once Upon a Timepiece is a novel made up of 12 short stories
written by Starr Wood, a British journalist, writer and economist.
Each story can be read on its own, with a distinct plot, and an
unexpected twist at the end. But the stories also join together to tell
a bigger narrative. All 12 stories are set in the year 2012, with the
rst starting in January, the second in February, and the nal one in
December. The link that joins all the stories together is an antique
gold watch, a Breitling Chronomat from 1946. This watch passes
from story to story in many different ways.
The novel begins when Conrad Sands returns a vintage wristwatch
to a university sweetheart after 20 years apart, sparking a remarkable
chain of events. The watch passes through the hands of a gold-
digger, a journalist, an enchantress, and a professor. It touches the
lives of a rogue art collector, a domestic helper, and an environmental
campaigner. All of them are strangers, yet all are intricately linked in
ways that none of them see.
Once Upon a Timepiece is the debut novel from Starr Wood who
was born in England in 1970, but grew up in Nigeria, Ras Al
Khaimah, South Korea, the Philippines, and Taiwan. In 1992, Starr
graduated from the London School of Economics and began his
career as a journalist. Today, he lives in Singapore with his wife and
three children.
Please enjoy the rst chapter JANUARY: SEIZE THE DAY
The book is available in bookshops,
but it is easiest to buy on one
of the Amazon websites.
Prices are as follows:
UK: 7.99
Europe: 8.99
USA: US$12.99
A book about a
Starr Wood
0024 WATCHWORLD 71
C
onrad Sands slipped off his watch and placed it on the desk in
front of him. He stared at the second-hand ticking neatly, inevi-
tably, dispassionately round the face, measuring out increments
of life with blank indifference. How many seconds had passed
since he had last seen her?
Conrad pulled a sheet of paper towards him and began to scribble dates
and numbers. He worked absently, only half-engaged with the task. June
22nd 1992 he wrote at the top. That was the last time he had seen Mariana
Carson. He couldnt remember the exact time. Perhaps it was 8.30am when
she had climbed into a London cab with her bags and sped off to Victoria
station, and then to Gatwick for her ight to New York.
He had stayed with her that last night in her rented apartment above a
newsagents on Wardour Street in Soho. They had risen early and walked
round to the Patisserie Valerie caf on Old Compton Street just as it was
opening. It was her favourite place for breakfastalways pain au choco-
lat and a caffe latte, sitting at an outside table, watching the day come to
life. The street had a grubby cheerfulness, the gutters full of beer cans and
cigarette butts from the night before that would be cleared away by road-
sweepers as the crisp morning air brightened with the sun.
Today was January 12th, 2012. Nineteen and a half years had passed since
that morning7,143 days. Conrad put down his pencil. It was a quarter of
a lifetime.
He had only known her for nine months, and yet the memories he had of
her were as clear today as they were in the moments after she had slipped
away in her taxi that summer morning. At least they felt just as clear.
He pulled open the desk drawer and took out a second watch, cleaning
it on his shirt. He had never worn this one, but he had held it countless
times over the past 19 years, staring at its features. The watch was a 1946
Breitling Chronomat made from rose-coloured gold. Mariana had told him
it was designed during World War II for aviators. It had two extra dials
on its face and a rotating bezel marked with various scales and measure-
ments. In the right hands, the watch could be used to work out speeds, dis-
tances, percentages, fuel consumption and numerous other calculations.
Mariana had given him the watch over their last breakfast. It had belonged
to her grandfather, who had left it to her in his will. Mariana had worn it
every day that Conrad had known her. It was one of his dening memories
of hera slim 23-year-old woman wearing an antique mens gold watch
that dwarfed her wrist. The leather strap showed clearly where she had
punched an extra hole to make the t tight enough.
Conrad had protested at the gift, but Mariana had waved away his concerns
and insisted he keep it to remind him of her. At the time it had felt like a prom-
ise to keep in close contact, that their parting was just a temporary break. He
had been 21, and thought theyd be apart for a few months, perhaps a year at
most. He certainly hadnt expected to be 40 years old when they reconnected.
He wound up the Breitling and set the time so that it now ticked in unison
with his rst watch. It was 5.30pm, and already dark outside. He was due
to meet her in two hours.
Conrad showered and shaved and stared at his reection through the bath-
room steam. At 21 hed been athletic, choosing to cycle whenever he trav-
elled across London. He had been a keen windsurfer at home in his native
Cornwall, and was a regular in a ve-a-side soccer league. Now the mirror
showed a man in much poorer shape. These days he jogged to keep t, but
it hadnt prevented his paunch from lling out and his skin from losing its
elasticity. His hair was still thick and dark, but his face seemed more bloated.
How would Mariana have aged? At 23 she had been striking, if not clas-
sically beautiful. She had given Conrad the strong impression of a native
Once Upon a Timepiece
JANUARY: SEI ZE THE DAY 1.
American Indian, a hunterslim, with sinuous limbs, long black hair and
olive skin. She caught peoples eye and held it, but it wasnt so much pretti-
ness or good looks as it was an impression of something exotic, a determi-
nation, a condence. She saw the world in her own way, and meeting her
made you want to understand how and why.
He had rst met her in the student bar at the London School of Economics.
It was the winter term of his nal year. He was playing pool with a friend
when shed challenged him to a game. She lost the rst, but challenged him
again and again, until she beat him on the fourth try. Conrad was a good
player who rarely lost. He maintained that hed let her win out of pity, but
it wasnt true.
Mariana, whose swarthy complexion was a blend of Venezuelan mother
and Anglo Saxon father, was an American exchange student from Duke
University studying economics at the LSE for a year. She shared several
classes with Conrad, and after that rst encounter over the pool table they
had spent more and more time together.
She was endlessly curious about London and its history, taking Conrad to
museums, art galleries, churches and buildings that he had never seen.
One of her more unusual interests centred on the graves of the famous. At
Westminster Abbey she sought out the resting places of Alfred Tennyson,
Charles Dickens, Isaac Newton and Charles Darwin. At St Pauls Cathedral,
she visited the graves of John Donne, Alexander Fleming, William Blake
and Christopher Wren.
Once, Conrad had taken her to see a football match, a Chelsea game at
Stamford Bridge. She had loved the gruff cynicism of the life-long support-
ers as they watched the match, and afterwards they had drunk in a local
pub called the Pickled Pelican with a boisterous crowd of fans. Mariana
liked to drinkJim Beam bourbon and beer. On leaving the pub, she had
taken Conrad to Brompton Cemetery next to the football ground to seek
out the grave of Emmeline Pankhurst, the suffragette. It had taken them
some time to nd it, and when they did, Mariana had sat on the ground
and smoked a cigarette, suddenly quiet, the rowdiness of the stadium and
the pub lost to personal contemplation.
On another occasion, a Saturday morning, Mariana had announced that she
was going to Highgate Cemetery to see the grave of Karl Marx. The great
European experiment with communism had collapsed in the previous two
years and she wanted to see where its architect lay. They had stood together
in front of the austere cuboid of grey granite, topped by a giant bust of the
man, and talked about Marxs theories, his delusions and his legacy.
As an economics student, Conrad was familiar with Marx and had
denounced his ideology. So too had Mariana, but her arguments had
seemed so much more passionate and nuanced, so much more intense
than Conrads text-book clichs.
Conrad knew that she was well-read. Her father, an engineer who ran a
company in New York that made electricity transmission machinery,
had banned television from his household. He believed in the merits
of discussion, debate, reading and study. Conrad had found it some-
what ironic that a man who spent his life improving the delivery of
electricity to peoples homes, should forbid the watching of television
in his own, but Mariana had clearly benetted from his discipline.
In one or two instances, Conrad had found himself reading ahead so as
to impress Mariana with his own erudition. When she made plans to vis-
it Kensal Green Cemetery, and the graves of Charles Babbage, the math-
ematician, and Anthony Trollopean economists novelist, as Mariana
described himConrad spent a week reading and improving his know-
ledge of both of them.
Conrad hadnt thought to ask her why she was so keen to see these graves.
0024 WATCHWORLD 72
ESSAY
Looking back, he supposed it was to bring the gures of history to life for
her in some way. She seemed to admire great achievement. She seemed to
hold great respect for men and women who had used their brief candle,
their hour upon the stage as Macbeth put it, to make a difference.
Conrad ipped the Breitling watch over and looked at the back where an
inscription read May your brief candle shine brightly. Conrad had only
seen the inscription after she had given him the watch. No doubt it had
been engraved by her grandfather, or by whoever had given it to him. But
Conrad had often wondered over the past nineteen years if the dictum had
held a special resonance for Mariana. The inscription was part advocacy,
urging the wearer to live life fully, and part prayer. Perhaps it was a sense
of lifes brevity that had so animated Marianas interest in the graves of
Londons great achievers.
It certainly seemed that Marianas candle had shone brightly. In the past
few weeks Conrad had learned a little about her life since theyd parted. Her
year studying at LSE was the last of her undergraduate degree, and before
she left London she had secured a place at Harvard to study for a masters
degree in law. That much Conrad had always known. He had tried to stay
in touch, writing letters to her family address in New York. He wrote six
times in the rst eight months but never heard back from her. He had no
idea if the address had been wrong or if she had simply lost interest in him.
Those were the days when the web was still in its infancy and keeping in
touch with distant friends was hard. As the internet blossomed, however,
Conrad had come across traces of Mariana and the work she was doing.
An online search on her name in 1998 showed that she was working in
Bosnia, helping to re-establish property rights for families displaced by the
Yugoslavia conict.
Three years later, in 2001, another search revealed that she had set up an
organisation called Rule of Lawits motto was Nobody above the law,
nobody below the law. Its website described a group of lawyers ghting
for the formalisation of property rights in the worlds squatter settlements
and conict zones. The philosophy behind the group was exactly what
Conrad would have expected from Mariana: clear deeds and ownership
rights to land were the foundation of wealth. Without formal property
rights, the poor had no assets against which to borrow, they were unable
to set up or to own legally-recognised businesses, and they were exclud-
ed from the formal economy. Only by establishing property rights for the
poor could they improve their lives. Marx would be turning in his grave,
Conrad had thought on reading it.
As the years had gone by, Conrads thoughts had turned to Mariana less and
less frequently, but her presence still lingered at the edge of his conscious-
ness. Every few months he would trawl the web to see what new mentions
he could nd of her. Disappointingly, he had never found any photographs.
She wasnt registered with any of the social media sites, and although she
was quoted periodically in news stories, they never carried a picture.
At various times he had composed emails to Marianasome of them long
and heartfelt, others short and pithybut he had never sent them. He had
always arrived at the same conclusion, that Mariana had forgotten about
him and moved on. Why else had she ignored his letters? He had given her
his familys address in Cornwall before shed left London. She could easily
have written to him, but she never did.
Over the years, Conrads impression of his nine-month relationship with
her had grown gradually less certain. Had he simply been a friend of con-
venience, an easy companion in a foreign city? Perhaps he had been even
less than that. Certainly it was she who had initiated the friendship, but
was it he who had sustained it? Had Mariana invited him to accompany
her on her explorations of London, or had he invited himself?
Throughout their time together it was a frustration for Conrad that they
never had sex, not once. It wasnt through any sense of prudence or chas-
tity on her part. Mariana had been happy to kiss him, and to share a bath
with him as they smoked joints and drank wine and listened to The Grate-
ful Dead and Neil Young and Funkadelic. She had been happy to sleep in
the same bed as him, both of them naked, caressing each other and talking.
But anything more and she had gently declined.
The reason she gave for her restraint was the ending of a long relation-
ship just before she came to London. Mariana had said she wasnt ready to
step straight into a new one, and Conrad had believed her. But in the years
since, he had wondered whether the previous boyfriend had really existed.
He had also considered the possibility that this boyfriend had been all too
real and waiting for her in New York or at Duke. Conrad imagined him as
tall and tanned, an impressive man with great charisma.
But if all that were true, then why had she given him the watch? Surely
such a treasured heirloom handed down from her grandfather wouldnt
be so easily lost to a passing ing of no signicance? If only they had made
love. Somewhere deep inside himself, Conrad suspected that some of his
enduring interest in Mariana was thanks to the unrequited nature of his
love for her.
Conrad padded through into his bedroom. It was still littered with boxes
and packing cases that had arrived a few days earlier. Hed spent the past
fteen years in Asia, working in Tokyo, Singapore and Hong Kong, before
deciding to return to the UK. Hed sold most of his possessions before
the move. All that remained were a handful of books, two paintings, an
antique chest from Nepal, his golf clubs, and several cartons of photo-
graphs and papers. At the time, Conrad had thought it a good idea to get
rid of all the clutter in his life, but surveying the items that had survived
his cull, it didnt seem like much.
He shrugged to himself and began to get dressed. He could always buy
more things if he wanted to. A career spent working as a fund manager
meant he was already wealthy. He didnt have a job in London, but nor did
he need one. His return to the UK was a chance for him to reassess his life
and decide what he wanted to do next. He needed a change of scene.
For some time, hed felt a growing disillusionment gnawing at his soul.
Partly it was a sense that his job, indeed his whole industry, had lost its
way. It no longer provided social utility. But more than that, Conrad was
consumed with a gathering sense that he wasnt the person he thought
hed be at the age of 40. He hadnt lived the life hed wanted to live, and
time was getting shorter.
Occasionally hed hear a piece of music and be transported back twenty
years to a different era, to a different version of himself, a younger version,
a better version. It might be Lou Reeds Sweet Jane or Blue Cheers The
Pilot or any number of other songs. More and more, these tunes took him
back to a place that increasingly looked nothing like his life today. They
unlocked a time of possibility, a place without borders, a world of potential
and greatness and passion. It wasnt only music, it was also books and art
and conversations. More and more they lled him with a sense of a past
vision for his life, a hope, an expectation that he had failed to achieve. Con-
rad was lled with a sense that, if his younger self could see him now, he
would have been disappointed.
On returning to London six weeks earlier, Conrad had contacted many of
the friends hed lost touch with over the years. He had emailed Mariana
too, spending a long time crafting his message, trying to get the tone right.
He wanted to appear friendly but casual, interested but not overly so. He
avoided any mention of his unanswered letters, or questions of why she
had never been in touch. He was just an old friend re-establishing contact.
She had replied almost immediately, her email full of enthusiasm and
delight at hearing from him. She said shed missed him and wanted to
know what hed been up to in the years since university. Her response made
Conrad feel ashamed that he had pretended to be so blas, and so they had
emailed back and forth, lling in the history that each of them had missed.
Mariana was still unmarried, and still lived in New York, although she spent
most of her life on the road, meeting the donors who funded her organisa-
- The watch was a 1946 Breitling Chronomat
made from rose-coloured gold -
0024 WATCHWORLD 73
tion, recruiting lawyers to join it, and leading efforts to represent the poor and
displaced in their legal disputes. Much of her time was spent in Venezuela,
Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana and Suriname. She described her work as frustrat-
ing and rewarding in equal measure. Occasionally it was dangerous too.
Mariana told how she had come to truly understand the importance of
land rights in the months between leaving LSE and attending Harvard.
She had been visiting her mothers family in Caracas in Venezuela and had
witnessed rst-hand a riot in one of the barrios in the hills rising out of
the city. She had travelled to the barrio alone, wanting to understand the
plight of the urban poor, and had become caught up in an outbreak of vio-
lence that had put her in hospital.
She had spent the next ve months recovering from her injuriesa slow,
painful and frustrating experience that had delayed her start at Harvard. But
the experience was an epiphany, it had changed her life. She had witnessed
the desperate anger of people trying to protect the pitiful plots that they and
their families had worked for, but which the law said they didnt own.
Conrad had still not spoken to Mariana. All their communication had been
via email, and it seemed better that way. It had allowed him the space to
grow comfortable with her once more. Tonight, however, they would meet
face-to-face for the rst time in nineteen and a half years. One week ear-
lier, Mariana had emailed saying that she was coming to London for four
days. She was meeting several law rms that wanted to get involved with
her cause. She wondered if she could see him too?
Conrad strapped the Breitling onto his wrist and checked the timeone
hour to go. It seemed right to wear the watch tonight. It would show how
important she had remained to him, and that he had never stopped think-
ing about her. He didnt know what to expect from the evening. The two of
them were both single. Possibly it would lead to a rekindling of the past.
Perhaps he had held a place in Marianas heart for the past nineteen years,
just as she had in his. He felt calm as he set off to meet her.
The venue for their reunion was a wine bar in Notting Hill called Wild
Thyme, just off the Portobello Road. It served tapas-style food and was a
suitably casual place for the occasion. On a Thursday night it would be
busy but comfortable.
As Conrad approached, he stopped outside to peer through the plate-
glass windows. The lights inside were dimmed, but thick church candles
ickered from sconces on the walls and from tall wooden candlesticks. It
looked warm against the icy darkness of the street. Many of the tables had
people sitting at them.
Conrad stepped inside and surveyed the room, looking for her. The space
was large and irregular, and parts of it were obscured by columns and cor-
ners. Mariana wasnt in the front part of the bar, and Conrad moved fur-
ther in to get a better view of the back. And then he saw her. She was at the
bar alone, sitting on a bar stool, straight-backed, with a glass of red wine
in front of her. She looked poised and comfortable, and Conrad watched as
she sipped her wine and tapped at her phone.
She was wearing jeans tucked into knee-length boots and a tight-tting grey
jumper. On the stool next to her lay a black overcoat. If anything, she looked
more imposing than Conrad remembered. Her face was noticeably older, but
her hair was still long and black and her gure still slender. Her expression
was immediately familiar, but had gained a wisdom that Conrad realised had
been inevitable. Her condence at 23 had matured into a powerful presence.
Can I nd you a table, Sir? A waiter said, approaching Conrad.
No, no, he stammered, ducking behind a pillar. Thank you, Ill sit at the
bar. Im meeting somebody.
Can I take your coat?
In a minute, thank you.
His calmness had given way to trepidation. There she was, Mariana Car-
son, the woman who had lit up his life so brightly nineteen years earlier,
and whose memory had stayed with him so persistently ever since. Conrad
peered round the pillar again and was struck with familiar impressions: a
hunter, a erce intellect, an exotic beauty, a deep passion and energy and
curiosity for life. But now he saw something else too, a sense of accom-
plishment that magnied all her earlier traits. She had grown in stature.
The more Conrad looked, the more his desire to meet Mariana drained
away. She had achieved so much of value with her life. She had done such
important work. Conrad felt thin and insignicant. Hers had been a life that
deserved a grave worth visiting. Would anyone visit his in the years ahead?
Conrad called over the waiter, borrowed his pen and tore a page off his
order pad. He leant against the pillar and wrote a note onto the page,
before folding it in half. He unbuckled the Breitling watch, and cleaned it
for the last time on his shirt, watching how the ickering candle ames on
the wall above him reected off the glass.
He stole one more glance at Mariana, and then gave the note and watch
to the waiter and instructed him to give them to the woman at the bar. He
made sure the waiter had understood the instructions clearly, and then
pulled open the door and strode away into the cold.
Where is he? the woman asked when the waiter handed over the watch.
He left. You might still catch him if you run.
She opened the folded note. It read:
MarianaI saw you this evening sitting at the bar and you looked mag-
nicent. You have become the woman I always imagined youd be. I want-
ed to join you, with all my heart I wanted to, but I think too much time
has passed. Or perhaps not enough time. Im returning your grandfathers
watch. You deserve it more than me. Conrad
Do you want me to see if I can catch him? the waiter asked.
No no thank you, the woman shook her head. Its ne.
She read the note several more times and studied the watch, turning it
over and reading the inscription on the back. She sipped her wine slowly,
casting her eyes over the rest of the room, and when her glass was empty
she asked the barman for her bill. A leather bag lay on the oor next to her
barstool and she picked it up, dropping the letter and watch into it and
pulling out her purse. She paid the bill and was putting on her coat when
another woman joined her at the bar.
Has there been a man in here looking for someone? Looking for a wom-
an? Hes about 40, tallish, dark hair, the second woman asked the barman.
He shook his head. If anyone does ask, maybe you could point him in my
direction. Im sitting in the corner over there.
Sure, the barman said. Whats your name?
Mariana. And his name is Conrad. Im worried he might have been in and
missed me.
On hearing the conversation, the rst woman turned and stared at Maria-
na. She had a face that wasnt easy to look at. Beneath her greying hair, her
right cheek and temple looked as if they had been scalded by boiling water.
While one side of her face had smooth skin the other side looked stretched
and distorted like melted plastic.
Has someone stood you up? the rst woman asked.
I hope not, Mariana replied. Hopefully hes just late. Hes an old friend.
Bloody men. Im sure hell show up. The rst woman smiled, picked up
her bag and walked out.
- He unbuckled the Breitling watch,
and cleaned it for the last time on his shirt -
Looking forward
to
BASELWORLD
Having barely recovered from the watch madness that is the Salon
International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva we are now being
inundated with a second wave of novelties. In the run-up to the watch
fair in Basel, which will be held at the end of March, new models are
coming in at an impressive rate. None of that quiet before the storm
stuff, we are heading full tilt to the second watch high point in 2014.
These six pages are only a small harbinger of things to come
B
L
A
C
K
Hublot Big Bang Unico
All Black
The Big Bang with its Unico calibre, the
Hublot movement that has been developed
and produced by the company in-house since
2009, was presented to the public last year.
This year the individualistic brand, which has
a marked preference for black and unusual
materials, is coming up with a completely
black version. There are 500 copies available,
each with a 45.5mm black ceramic case and
bezel and black PVD titanium push-buttons
and crown. And the dial? Black! But it is ske-
letonised. And what does it show: a yback
chronograph and date window at 3 oclock.
Not a limited edition but just as black is the
carbon version of the Big Bang Unico.
0024 WATCHWORLD 74
Bovet by Pininfarina Sergio
Split-Second Chronograph
This Sergio version is named after the president
of the world-famous Italian design studio. As
a gift on the occasion of Sergio Pininfarinas
40 years of loyal service in the family business
Paolo Pininfarina, in conjunction with Bovet,
designed a watch with an automatic rattrapan-
te chronograph movement with split-second
function. The two push-buttons, located to the
left and right of the crown at 12 oclock provide
the start, stop and restart functions. The second
seconds hand is restarted via the crown. Typi-
cally Bovet: this Sergio can be used in a number
of different ways. Thanks to the Amadeo system
the 45mm PVD steel case can easily be tted to
a strap, converted into a table clock, a practical
time measuring instrument or a pocket watch.
PRE-BASELWORLD 2014 By Ellen Dobbelaar
H. Moser & Cie.
Perpetual Calendar Black Edition
H. Moser & Cie., usually such a traditional company, is
taking a gamble. Of the just 1,000 watches that leave the
premises in Neuhausen am Rheinfall every year, some of
the forthcoming Perpetual Calendar watches usually
only available in white gold, rose gold or platinum will
be in black. But this time the case will be made of tita-
nium (grade 5) with DLC coating. At the time of writing
this article H. Moser & Cie. dont want to show yet the
front of the watch, so we need to be satised with a
picture of the case-back. So, until BaselWorld, it will be a
guess how it will look like. What is certain is that it will
be a special and rare watch To be continued.
W
H
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0024 WATCHWORLD 75
Longines Column-Wheel Single
Push-Piece Chronograph
Beauty comes with age, as Longines proves once
again. This reinterpretation of one of the rst
chronographs the brand from Saint-Imier made
in 1913 is now available as a single push-button
chronograph with calibre L788. The sterile
white dial with contrasting black indicators
and the striking red number 12 refer to the art of
watchmaking as it was performed at the start of
the 20th century. A steel and rose gold version
with Arabic numerals and a steel version with
Roman numerals our personal favourite are
available for nostalgic watch lovers.
Herms Cape Cod
Tonneau GM Silver
The name Herms doesnt even really need to be on
the watch, because this Cape Cod has all the unmis-
takable Herms hallmarks. The rounded shapes, the
typical handle-shaped lugs and of course the strap
are all good examples. However, new for Herms is
the special silver alloy: the brand refers to a compo-
site that was developed especially for Herms, with
a bigger proportion of silver 97% to be exact to
retain the shine. There is a small and a large variant
of the Tonneau GM Silver, with or without 64 dia-
monds, and with a reliable quartz movement.
Frdrique Constant Classics Manufacture Worldtimer
The Classics Manufacture Worldtimer doesnt need to prove itself. Since its release in
2012 this watch with world time display has been embraced by watch fans around
the globe. That is because of the acceptable price-quality ratio thanks to the manu-
facture calibre FC-718 with its 42-hour power reserve, and the easy operation of all
the functions via the crown. Sounds feasible. The fact is that Dutch couple Peter and
Aletta Stas, the owners of Frdrique Constant, have decided to expand the line with
two further models in polished steel, with an open-worked case-back and a choice of a
silver-coloured dial with guilloch pattern or a world map. The outer ring with 24 cities
is very prominent and the watch also has a 24-hour indicator, day and night indicator
and date display at 6 oclock.
0024 WATCHWORLD 76
Glashtte Original
PanoMaticInverse
After a six-year wait it will nally be revealed at
BaselWorld: the PanoMaticInverse, successor
to the PanoInverse. The concept remains
the same as that from 2008, with a
movement that has been turned inside
out. This means that the components
that are normally seen through the
case-back are now visible on the dial. The
PanoMaticInverse expands on this theme,
with the balance wheel and the typical swan
neck regulator between 3 and 6 oclock. The
Ctes de Genve-nished platine is decorated
with blued screws and synthetic rubies. Below
this platine, which takes up at least three
quarters of the dial, is a specially modied
movement, calibre 91-02, with 42-hour power
reserve. A 42mm case surrounds the hours,
minutes and seconds, plus a date window at 2
oclock in the panoramic style so typical of the
Glashtte Original.
Classic
Blancpain Villeret
Collection 8 Jours
This is a Blancpain in its purest form: a watch
with respect for authenticity and tradition,
beautifully traditional, stylish but simple, but oh
so delicate. How about a Grand Feu enamelled
dial, on which the date can be read in a recessed
window at 3 oclock? With an amazing 8-day
power reserve, thanks to its calibre 1335, which is
visible through the sapphire crystal case-back.
The Ctes de Genve nish on the platine and a
honeycomb pattern on the rotor are a pleasure
to behold. The 42mm rose gold case with step-
ped bezel surrounds all this beauty.
Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde
SW Ctes de Genve
We all know Jaquet Droz from the breath-
taking automatons, moving miniature gu-
rines, like the birds in the Bird Repeater that
the brand presented last year. But this time
the focus is not on these fairy tale tableaux,
but rather on the traditional watchmaking
standards and values. As the name suggests,
the entire focus is on the large seconds hand
that completely takes up the bottom half of the
dial. Hours and minutes are shown in a highly
traditional way using Roman numerals, but
where the two subsidiary dials meet this chan-
ges to Arabic numerals. The Ctes de Genve
nish and the 45mm steel case complete the
picture. The automatic movement, calibre
2663A-S, supplies a power reserve of 68 hours.
PRE-BASELWORLD 2014
M O D E R N
0024 WATCHWORLD 77
Girard-Perregaux Chrono Hawk
Girard-Perregaux has good news for fans of the Hawk family. The Chrono version is now
also available with a satin-nished steel bracelet that is combined with two different
dials: silver or blue metallic. With the extra-large lugs and sizeable links the masculine
Chrono Hawk becomes even more rugged (and heavier), with a mighty 44mm steel case
that is water resistant to 100m. The watch is tted with an automatic chronograph that
provides a 46-hour power reserve. And for those who already have a watch with rubber
strap: no problem, the steel version can be ordered separately so proud Hawk owners can
simply change the strap.
Arnold & Son Time Pyramid
Over the past few years Arnold & Son has gradually introduced a number of new watches, such as the
Time Pyramid, a watch whose design is based on that of a 19th-century clock, with the entire focus on
the triangular movement. The Time Pyramid was previously available in rose gold, but at the watch
salon in Basel a steel version will also be seen. The pyramidal, skeletonised hand-wound movement,
calibre A&S1615 just 4.4mm thick appears to oat in the steel case thanks to two sapphire crystal
layers. Still, the watch appears to have depth thanks to the different levels of the minutes, hours and
seconds (read from top to bottom). Two large spring barrels, together good for a 90-hour power reserve,
constitute the base of the pyramid. The power reserve is displayed in two places: at 3 oclock and
9 oclock. The construction slowly moves upward and its pinnacle is the balance wheel at 12 oclock.
Seiko Astron Solar GPS
Time has no limits, as witnessed by Seikos Astron watch, as this revo-
lutionary watch is capable of showing the local time in 39 time zones
at dazzling speed, using GPS. The only thing the watch needs is the
occasional ray of sunshine to power the movement. This success story
has been given a follow-up in the form of the new Astron Solar GPS, with
a complex sapphire crystal that surrounds and protects the map of the
world shown on the dial like a stratosphere. The intended effect is the
view of the Earth much like that experienced by astronauts, a transpa-
rent, blue stratosphere.
DeWitt Twenty-8-Eight Full Moon
A rather classic complication, the moon phase indicator, has been given a
modern interpretation thanks to a special dial layout. The asymmetrical
dial is divided into two uneven sections. The right side of the dial is nished
with aventurine, the same material used in Van Cleef & Arpels astronomical
watch. This material corresponds with that of the moon phase module, which
is formed by two mother-of-pearl discs. The left side, nished with a Ctes de
Genve motif, is partly skeletonised two classic examples of watchmaking art
and contrasts beautifully with the gold-coloured cogwheels. This astronomic
tableau has been placed in a small, 33mm titanium case.
0024 WATCHWORLD 78
AIR
Alpina Startimer Pilot Automatic Sunstar
Another brand that is looking back to the past this year: Alpina. Originally a
supplier of military pilots watches, the brand proceeded to branch out into
divers watches, among other things. But for now lets look at these pilots
watches. These used to have soft-iron inner cases, clearly readable dials,
luminescent hands and indicators, everything aimed at making the pilots
life as easy as possible. Todays Startimer Pilot collection is obviously no lon-
ger intended for professional use but Alpina still tries to add the occasional
historical element, like in this Automatic Sunstar. Grey dial with Arabic,
luminescent numerals in a 40mm steel case, on which the hours, minutes,
seconds and date are easy to read.
Breitling Chronomat 44 GMT
Patrouille Suisse 50th Anniversary
Champagne corks pop twice in the Swiss hangars, because this is the 100th
anniversary of the Air Force and the 50th anniversary of Patrouille Suisse,
a military division that specialises in stunt ying. Breitling has been close
to these air force stunt pilots for many years and such a good friendship
demands a beautiful birthday present. This comes in the form of a special
Chronomat, a 44mm chronograph with a steel case and a black dial that
features the team logo at 9 oclock and has a second hour hand that ends
in the shape of a red F-5E Tiger II. The anniversary logo is engraved on the
case-back. In addition to all this the pilots get an automatic chronograph
movement, calibre B04, developed and produced by Breitling and COSC-
certied. For aspiring pilots or for those who prefer to keep both feet rmly
on the ground: 1,000 copies of this watch are available.
Bell & Ross
BR 03-94 Carbon Orange
Bell & Rosss instrument watches may be credited
to co-owner Bruna Belamich, who has no trouble
deconstructing an instrument panel to give form to
his fascination with aircraft attributes. He is happy
to share his passion with others via his Bell & Ross
and today countless versions of the BR 01, BR 03 and
BR S roll off the conveyor belt. This time we are tal-
king about 500 copies of the BR 03 Carbon Orange.
A matte black watch with two contrasting orange
and white elements on the dial. A chronograph with
two counters (60 seconds and 30 minutes), date
display and time display, with an automatic ETA
calibre 2894 movement. Available with a black
rubber or orange canvas strap.
Zenith Pilot Montre dAronef Type 20 GMT 1903
Zenith has quickly made a name for itself with its collection of pilots wat-
ches, including different incarnations of the Doublematic and the Montre
dAronef Type 20. Here we are looking at the youngest scion of the latter
family. The brand is introducing this model as a tribute to the Wright bro-
thers, because in 1903 Wilbur and Orville Wright completed the rst moto-
rised ight in history with their glider tted out with two propellers. They
covered 40 metres, 60cm above the ground. So what is the link between these
two enterprising brothers and the Pilot 1903? For many years Zenith tted
the Montre dAronef Type 20 in aircraft dashboards and for Zenith this was
the starting point for the Pilot 1903, with an inscription of Orville and Wilbur
Wright engraved in the case-back. The company will be making 1,903 copies
of this 48mm DLC-coated titanium classic with second time zone display, each
with a wide nubuck leather strap.
PRE-BASELWORLD 2014
WATER
0024 WATCHWORLD 79
Edox Deln
The Deln is Edoxs solution for those who are looking for a watch that can be worn around the
water, on the water and underwater. As early as 1961 we already found Edox in the water, because
that was the rst time the Deln took the plunge underwater. The watch has a patented crown
system based on a double gasket. This means the crown no longer has to be screwed shut: until
then divers occasionally forgot to do so, with all the attendant problems. The new, 43mm Deln is
water resistant to 200m, displays the hours, minutes, seconds and date and comes with a chrono-
graph function.
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Tattoo
A rather artistic divers watch, this Oktopus Moon Tattoo
by Danish duo Morten Linde and Jorn Werdelin. A rose gold
case, which as we have come to expect of Linde Werdelin
is constructed on different levels for a three-dimensional
effect and is nished with a detailed, hand-engraved
octopus on the dial. The same kind of precise images are
also clearly seen on the rose gold case. The Oktopus Moon
Tattoo is limited to 59 copies and each watch shows two
moon cycles that each take 29.5 days. Ideal for those who
are planning a night dive, says Linde Werdelin. The dial
consists of different, skeletonised layers, which also adds
depth. A sizeable black ceramic bezel surrounds the DLC-
coated titanium case. Oh, the watch is a real divers watch,
because it is water resistant to 300m
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean Orange Ceramic
A familiar sight in the world of divers watches: the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean. Despite that
familiarity this Orange Ceramic version, water resistant to 600m, is unique in its kind thanks to the
platinum case, dial and clasp. The 43.5mm case also displays a 24-hour scale on a revolving bezel
in orange ceramic. A world rst, according to Omega, which has proudly engraved this fact on the
case-back. The calibre 8615 with GMT function, developed in-house at Omega, can be seen through
this case-back. To complete the picture the watch comes with a matching orange strap. Perhaps in
the future Omega will probably use the orange ceramic in the normal steel versions but for the
moment this platinum version is limited to 8 copies.
Victorinox Dive Master 500
Swiss company Victorinox has a quarter-century
of watchmaking behind it; the company became
known for its pocket knives, but is steadily wor-
king to match that success in the eld of watches.
With 25 years of experience the company is still
in its infancy if you compare it to a Breguet,
Blancpain or Jaeger-LeCoultre, but age is merely
a number. For Victorinox it is in any case a reason
to celebrate this modest anniversary with a
limited edition of 500 watches, for the rst time
in titanium, a lightweight material that is ideal
for a diver. A mechanical, automatic movement,
calibre ETA 2894-2, provides the watch, which
is water resistant to 500m, with the necessary
power to operate the chronograph. Not just the
hands and hour indicators are luminescent: so
are the chronograph dials. Interesting extra: the
20-minute zone on the bezel appears to radiate
the same colour in the dark, but nothing is what
it seems. The colour of this important indicator
for divers changes into light blue.
COLUMN
Simon says...
F
o
l
l
o
w

u
s

o
n
l
i
n
e
!
W
ell,Ivebeenpluckedfromthesocialmediaplatform,thedigitalarea
ifyoulike,tocontributehereforthedigitalandprintmediumsforthis
[Link]-
sionalforawatchbrand,akeenphotographer(especiallyofwatches
andtheinfamous#womw)andavidwatchfan,Ivebeenputtowork
asSeniorEditorUKat0024WatchWorld,whereIhopetoshowofftheskillsIhavelearntfrom
mypreviouspositions.
So, whats happened recently?
RecentlyIattendedmyrstwatcheventoutsideofBaselWorld,BellesMontresandSalonQP
SalonInternationaldelaHauteHorlogeriewhichisamouthful,sowellstickwithitseasier
topronounceSIHHandwasoverwhelmedwithhowdifferentawatchshowcanbe,especially
onefromthegiantthatistheRichemontempire...Iwasamazedatthesebrandsandwhatthey
[Link]-LeCoultre,Parmigiani,[Link]&ShneandGreubel
Forseycreatewiththeirjewelsandtourbillons.Thewaythenew8dayofferingsandchrono-
graphs from Panerai and the IWC Aquatimer range make me feel, to the complete surreal
wackinessthatRogerDubuisofferedEaglenoises,largeCuckooclocksandpaintedwhitemen
rotatingonthehour!AllinallagreatrstexperienceandonewhichIvenowarealtastefor,so
nowwelookaheadtoBaselWorld2014,andwhatthemightySwatchandothershavetowhet
ourpallets,makeourkneesgoweekandreachtoourbackpocketstogetthosewalletsout!
What can we look forward to?
As well as 0024 WatchWorld expanding and growing to accommodate the ever increasing
demandsfortraditionalprintanddigitalplatforms,welookforwardtothisexpansionthrough
ourmagazine,oursocialmediaplatformssuchasFacebook,TwitterandInstagram,welook
forward to serving you whatever your chosen hand held device may be! You will be able to
continuetoreadusinprintordigitalversions.
There have been some great Brand Boutiques opening up here in London over the past
12monthsplus,fromthelikesofParmigiani,Rolex,Bremont,OmegaandBreitling,withthe
promiseofmorefor2014fromthelikesofRichardMilleandmoreunconrmedbrands,such
asRogerDubuis,BlancpainandIWConthehorizontoo...London,UK,especiallytheMayfair,
BondStreetspreadingintoMountStreetlocationsandsurroundingproximities,isstamping
its 0024 WatchWorld presence with strong authority. All in all exciting times ahead for the
LuxuryWatchIndustry.
Follow us @0024watchworld on Twitter and Instagram.
0024 WATCHWORLD 80
MARCH 27
APRI L 3, 2014
BRI LLI ANCE
MEETS
bsw14_brilliance_meets_240x330_def_ch.indd 1 02.09.13 11:25
MARCH 27
APRI L 3, 2014
BRI LLI ANCE
MEETS
bsw14_brilliance_meets_240x330_def_ch.indd 1 02.09.13 11:25
COLUMN
Karel Huberts different view of life
M
e
m
o
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s
0024 WATCHWORLD 82
T
here was a time when it used to be a treasured tradition to give somebody an
inscribed watch for a special occasion. Those were the days when there were
hardly any other products that would appropriately express the appreciation of
the giver. Today, in 2014, you give somebody an iPad, an introductory lesson in
a glider plane or a bland gift voucher, but there was a time when it had to be a
watch. Or maybe a fountain pen, but that was pretty well the end of your choices.
I think we should revitalise that tradition. Passed an important exam? Graduation, 21st birth-
day, retirement, 40th anniversary at work, been a grandpa for 10 years? Make it a watch with
the relevant dates and the reason for the gift inscribed in elegant script in the case-back. There is
no better gift, because everyone recognises the value, appreciates the enduring character of the
memory that is celebrated with this gift.
Watches act as the perfect markers along the road from birth to death. When I turned 18 I used
some of my study grant to buy an Omega Dynamic. This should have been something my father
gave me, but he was no longer with us. I have treasured that watch ever since, because it reminds
me of growing up and how long it took. There have been other watches with a story; the most
recent one is a Cartier Santos serving as an extra-large wedding ring, with the name of my beloved
and the date inscribed in the case-back with a ourish. I cannot think of any other product that
highlights getting older so glamorously, by making major events wearable.
To my mind a watch becomes truly beautiful and valuable if it is associated with an emotionally
charged moment in your life. The large Union stopwatch my father used for his work as a stage
director lives for me because in its crystal I can see the man reected, at work, bent over his
scripts. The old gold Zenith that used to belong to my grandfather colours the image I have
of the man, even though I was only six when he died. His widow called me on my birthday and
bluntly told me (I was only six, remember) that my granddad was dead. So he isnt coming for
dinner tonight?, I asked. The Zenith registered all these events: when I touch it I can still hear my
grandmothers voice.
Over the course of a lifetime I have given watches to many people to mark important events for
them and also because of the incredulous, happy look on the face of someone you love or value
when they see what you have just given them. Because beautiful watches are virtually immortal
they will usually live on after the giver and keep his or her memory alive every time the recipient
looks at the watch.
Lets turn to watches to look at the past, and especially the high points. It wont increase the
physical value of the watch in question, but from an emotional point of view it will become inva-
luable. And that wont even increase your insurance premiums!
FOR MORE
INFORMATION
PLEASE CALL
+31 513 624 906
OR EMAIL
INFO@[Link]
[Link]
40 YEARS
ASTRONOMI CAL
COMPLI CATI ONS
Astronomy, the basis of time as we know it. Tis fascinating insight has always been the source
of inspiration for Christiaan van der Klaauw. With the breathtaking Real Moon Joure,
Christiaan van der Klaauw presents one of its most beautiful signature watches. Te Real Moon Joure
is unique because of its three dimensional rotating miniature Moon showing the actual moon phase.
It takes the Moon 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes (29.530589 days) to rotate around the Earth.
Te magnifcent complication of the Real Moon Joure will show a deviation therefrom of only 1 day
in 11,000 years, making it one of the most accurate moon phase complications of all times.
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ASTRONOMY, TIME IN ITS PUREST FORM.
40 YEARS
CVDK AD 131215 Real Moon Joure RG 240x330 [Link] 1 10-02-14 11:05
Karel Huberts different view of life
FOR MORE
INFORMATION
PLEASE CALL
+31 513 624 906
OR EMAIL
INFO@[Link]
[Link]
40 YEARS
ASTRONOMI CAL
COMPLI CATI ONS
Astronomy, the basis of time as we know it. Tis fascinating insight has always been the source
of inspiration for Christiaan van der Klaauw. With the breathtaking Real Moon Joure,
Christiaan van der Klaauw presents one of its most beautiful signature watches. Te Real Moon Joure
is unique because of its three dimensional rotating miniature Moon showing the actual moon phase.
It takes the Moon 29 days, 12 hours and 44 minutes (29.530589 days) to rotate around the Earth.
Te magnifcent complication of the Real Moon Joure will show a deviation therefrom of only 1 day
in 11,000 years, making it one of the most accurate moon phase complications of all times.
S
U
B
J
E
S
U
B
J
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S
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VVVVV
ASTRONOMY, TIME IN ITS PUREST FORM.
40 YEARS
CVDK AD 131215 Real Moon Joure RG 240x330 [Link] 1 10-02-14 11:05